Beerlust Posted July 13, 2014 Share Posted July 13, 2014 Hi Bazzak. Nice hop schedule on the IPA. Simcoe is very smooth when used for bittering. Let us know how it turns out. I'll be interested in your take of the bitterness once it's in the glass. No need to worry about the Victory Malt grain, it only needs to be steeped, so it'll be fine. The heritage lager is proving pretty popular on the forum atm. I reckon there must be 5-6 guys that have it currently fermenting, or have brewed it within the last few weeks (Including me!). Good luck with both. Cheers, Anthony. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bazzak Posted July 13, 2014 Share Posted July 13, 2014 Nice hop schedule on the IPA. Simcoe is very smooth when used for bittering. Let us know how it turns out. I'll be interested in your take of the bitterness once it's in the glass. Thanks mate :), although I can't claim credit for it. When I saw it I thought it looked good so I thought I'd give it a crack, I am excited to taste it! I'll definitely report back on how the schedule worked and the bitterness. Has anyone actually tasted a TC Heritage Lager based recipe before? I'd be interested in any notes on it. I guess everyone is doing it now because of the weather! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PB2 Posted July 13, 2014 Share Posted July 13, 2014 What a beautiful day for brewing in Adelaide - clear skies and brisk! About a month or two ago, I tasted Fuller's Brewer's Reserve Oak Aged Ale (a year in Armagnac barrels) - this is the the last of the 12 beers that was gifted to me. Eleven got a mention in the 12 beers of Christmas - Sorachi Ace Saison being the "super sub". The FBROAA was probably the best of the 12! It was lively, beautifully balanced and surprisingly devoid of any heaviness, with a lingering flavour that reminded me of Galliano (guessing this is from the Armagnac casks, not knowing what this gear actually tastes like). So, today a FBROAA inspired brew: 7kg Pale Malt 150g Choc Malt 500g my own Crystal Malt (light crystal) 375g Demerara Sugar Magnum Hops (aiming for 60BU) Once fermented (target is 8.1%ABV), I plan to age in a 23 litre Oak Keg for about 4 mths. Only 4mths because I'm not comfortable with leaving a brew in such a vessel for a lengthy period. Planning on a tiny amount of priming sugar for both the keg and the bottles, which should bring the ABV up to around 8.5%. The port from this keg, only recently emptied, tastes strongly of mocha. Hence the choc malt addition in the hope to enhance this character Brew day went well, enhanced by a couple of slices of delicious terrine (home made) accompanied with a few pints of my dry stout. The brew is now safely squared away (22l cube), waiting for a spare FV Now I need to select a yeast for primary - initial thoughts are with Coopers Commercial Ale culture. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beerlust Posted July 13, 2014 Share Posted July 13, 2014 Hi PB2. Firstly, really cool to see you posting an open recipe of your own here on the forum. A very interesting beer you've decided to discuss here. Given your view that the beer was "beautifully balanced and surprisingly devoid of any heaviness", do you believe it could be a blended beer of 2 separately fermented ale recipes combined in the barrel (aka Newcastle Brown Ale), or would you put the lighter body of the beer down to purely a high attenuating yeast? A couple of further posts I found on the beer... A Worldly Canuck: Fuller's Brewer's Reserve No.4 (These Canuck drinkers are everywhere! ) Fullers Brewery: Brewer's Reserve No.4 Being an English Old Ale (of sorts) at its core, you've certainly got me thinking about a few ideas on what I might do with the Coopers ESVA base next time around Paul! Good luck with the brew & please let us know how it turns out. P.S. Given that you plan to use the re-activated CCA yeast, what will be your preparation of this yeast for such a high gravity brew. I feel not only myself, but other members of the forum would be very interested in how you go about this & estimate the volume of yeast required above the standard 1.040-1.050 OG brew when using the procedure. Cheers, Anthony. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
antiphile Posted July 13, 2014 Share Posted July 13, 2014 I flew home Wed arvo so our whole family could be together to celebrate the elder heir's birthday and fortunately dad was stable enough to let me get away for three days or so. On the way from the airport to home I stopped in to my grain dealer (who promised me on Tues he'd be able to put together the ingredients for a nice AG brew -maybe not my 1st choice but a nice brew all the same). When I got there he said he had absolutely no base malt at all! I hid my annoyance and resigned myself to not putting a brew down on this trip back. Thurs nite, Brunhilda asked if I had any stout left in the store (she now really likes a stout). So with a new found enthusiasm to get over my dissapointment, I put down the following 44 litre batch: 2 x TCS Irish Stout 1 x TCS Dark malt extract 2 x Coopers 500g LDM (1 kg in total) 1 kg Dextrose 500g steeped medium crystal 15g Fuggles @20 mins (all I had left) 45g EKG @ 15 mins (all I had left) 2 x kit yeasts rehydrated 90 mins Pitched at 20C, brew fridge set at 19C, OG 1.053 Back in Brissie this morning, so I'll find out how it went in several weeks. Edited 9.00 pm. Forgot to include the crystal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beerlust Posted July 13, 2014 Share Posted July 13, 2014 Hi Sir Les. When I see recipes for double sized kit brews I admit I don't fully understand what is being created some of the time, despite understanding the numbers. So based on my limited knowledge here, I'd expect something dark & after more than a few glasses, it may blur your vision! Good luck with the brew. May it save you from Brunhilda's dark side! Cheers, Anthony. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilboBaggins Posted July 14, 2014 Share Posted July 14, 2014 The fun continued yesterday with my first ever stuck mash! It sounds more fun than it is. But on a positive note, I just tasted the sample that I keep aside for a gravity reading. Bloody hell, I reckon I could drink it without even fermenting it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
antiphile Posted July 14, 2014 Share Posted July 14, 2014 Sorry to hear that, P1. But it sounds as though it finally worked out in the end. On the brighter side, all's well that drinks well. As for my dear friend Cariad Cwrw (Beerlust in Welsh I'm told) Since I can't regularly put down new brews at the moment, I have to find ways to keep my volume up. I can't recall when I started but it was either later September or early October (I'll have to check the forum on that), I was averaging 2 new brews per week. Then in mid May I was called up to Brissie and have only put down 2 or 3 brews since then. Now I'm up to #58. My lovely spouse-truck, Brunhilda, still enjoys a tipple when she gets home from work, and I wouldn't want her to go dry. If she gets angry and stamps her foot, it takes me weeks to deal with the nasty emails from the Australian Seismology Society (ASS). And being a grateful hubby, I like to do things for her (for her last birthday I bought her a set of reversing beepers to stick on her butt cheeks), and keep her plied with alcohol. So doing double brews makes sense at the moment. Also to make her life easier, I've come up with a new bottling plan for her sole use. The problem, however, is I'm having a hell of a time sourcing bottle caps for 20 litre carboys. Still, I'm told every problem has a solution. Good luck with the brew. May it save you from Brunhilda's dark side! Thanks for your support, but any hemisphere on the shady side of the sun is the dark side. Cheers Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Magnaman Posted July 14, 2014 Share Posted July 14, 2014 Sorry to hear that' date=' P1. But it sounds as though it finally worked out in the end. On the brighter side, all's well that drinks well. As for my dear friend Cariad Cwrw (Beerlust in Welsh I'm told) Since I can't regularly put down new brews at the moment, I have to find ways to keep my volume up. I can't recall when I started but it was either later September or early October (I'll have to check the forum on that), I was averaging 2 new brews per week. Then in mid May I was called up to Brissie and have only put down 2 or 3 brews since then. Now I'm up to #58. My lovely spouse-truck, Brunhilda, still enjoys a tipple when she gets home from work, and I wouldn't want her to go dry. If she gets angry and stamps her foot, it takes me weeks to deal with the nasty emails from the Australian Seismology Society (ASS). And being a grateful hubby, I like to do things for her (for her last birthday I bought her a set of reversing beepers to stick on her butt cheeks), and keep her plied with alcohol. So doing double brews makes sense at the moment. Also to make her life easier, I've come up with a new bottling plan for her sole use. The problem, however, is I'm having a hell of a time sourcing bottle caps for 20 litre carboys. Still, I'm told every problem has a solution. Good luck with the brew. May it save you from Brunhilda's dark side! Thanks for your support, but any hemisphere on the shady side of the sun is the dark side. Cheers Phil Hey P2, Seem's you've been busy in other area's as well, Linky Cheers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PB2 Posted July 16, 2014 Share Posted July 16, 2014 Dropped a Lemon Myrtle Witbier into keg yesterday arvo, which freed up a FV Re-activated CCA yeast?? Nope. The lazy brewer in me was planning to half fill a PET bottle of revitalised yeast from the lager cellar. Take it straight home and pitch immediately Didn't get around to this plan so I ended up hydrating two 11g sachets (Nottingham and Windsor) and fermenting at 18C. Together, they should attenuate the brew nicely. Anyway, the LMW was fermented with 3944 yeast from a previous batch dated 2/12/12 (the last inch of slurry from a 750ml bottle). Using a LDM wort at about 9P (1036), I started it in 100 ml (24hrs) then stepped it to 1 litre (another 24hrs) prior to pitching. It pulled up at 1003. Not a bad effort! Although it didn't have to work that hard as this brew usually only starts around 1032 'ish - made it so many times that I don't measure its OG these days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ICzed Posted July 16, 2014 Share Posted July 16, 2014 Doing my first extract brew on Friday night. The recipe is a Pacific Ale clone from my LHBS and is a good chance to use up some half empty bags of hops in the freezer. 2kg Light LME 1kg Wheat LME 250g Carapils 250g Dextrose US-05 yeast 23lt brew. 60 minute boil 30g Cascade @ 15 min. 30g Galaxy @ 5 min. 15g Galaxy, day 3 dry hop. I'm pretty excited, wish me luck! Cheers & beers. - Mark. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soundawake Posted July 16, 2014 Share Posted July 16, 2014 Another Smurto creation.... but I've changed the hops and yeast. A rye 4 shades of stout MO 71% Flaked rye 11% Amber 4.5% Carafa II 4.5% Choc 4.5% Roasted Barley 4.5% Warrior @ 60 to 38 IBU total 1.5g/L Centennial @ 15 and 0 WLP009 Australian Ale yeast (the commercial Coopers yeast) Ordering the grain today, will brew next week. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beerlust Posted July 16, 2014 Share Posted July 16, 2014 Hi ICzed. Doing my first extract brew on Friday night. The recipe is a Pacific Ale clone from my LHBS and is a good chance to use up some half empty bags of hops in the freezer. 2kg Light LME 1kg Wheat LME 250g Carapils 250g Dextrose US-05 yeast 23lt brew. 60 minute boil 30g Cascade @ 15 min. 30g Galaxy @ 5 min. 15g Galaxy' date=' day 3 dry hop. I'm pretty excited, wish me luck! Cheers & beers. - Mark.[/quote'] Interesting recipe from a bittering standpoint. Let us know how it turns out. Good luck with your first extract recipe! Cheers, Anthony. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soundawake Posted July 16, 2014 Share Posted July 16, 2014 edited - I read your recipe wrong. I added your recipe into Brewmate and you've got too many IBUs -the real Pacific Ale is only really late hopped ending with 18 IBU. Your recipe ends up with 27. I'd change the 15 min addition to 10. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MM Posted July 17, 2014 Share Posted July 17, 2014 My dear Mustang I hope you meant your wife decided to have a baby unexpectantly early and not that your wife left you when didn't expect it. But I'm more than happy to tell you what you have done: 1. If the former' date=' you have gone and got a lot of sympathy from me [img']crying[/img] 2. If the latter, no I'd better shut up now. But seriously, you've done bloody well. With the 30 minute steep of galaxy, I'd be tempted not to dry hop, though some people here have used galaxy a lot, and will be able to give more experienced advice. The reason I'd leave it as is: even with a 30 min steep I think you'd still extract quite a nice amount of bitterness, as well as flavour and aroma (alpha 11-16%, beta 5-6.9%). BREW TIPSWhen used late in the kettle, the whirlpool, or for dry hopping, Galaxy contributes a striking flavour best described as a combination of passionfruit and citrus. The fruit characters are modulated by different hops, malts, yeasts and dosing, however a late addition of Galaxy into the brew is always distinct. from hops.com.au. I really do hope it's the former, because I don't see why you shouldn't suffer like the rest of us! . Take care and all the very best Phil Hey Phil, from my hydro samples it's bloody fantasic, I did a tad unusual thing with dry hopping, I'll let you know if it turns out well, so far even the non beer drinker wife liked it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ICzed Posted July 18, 2014 Share Posted July 18, 2014 edited - I read your recipe wrong. I added your recipe into Brewmate and you've got too many IBUs -the real Pacific Ale is only really late hopped ending with 18 IBU. Your recipe ends up with 27. I'd change the 15 min addition to 10. Hey mate' date=' I only got 21.4 IBU on IanH's spreadsheet. Nothing wrong with a little bit more Cascade and Galaxy though right? [img']biggrin[/img] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scottie Posted July 19, 2014 Share Posted July 19, 2014 Folks Today I put down an amazing smelling English Bitter. So beautiful that it reminds me of the first time I opened the Coopers EB can . Here tis: CB Bitter 3.00kg Maris Otter 1.15kg Munich Malt 0.25kg Victory Malt 0.05kg Chocolate Malt 20g Magnum @ 60 mins 20g Fuggles @ 15 mins 10g Fuggles @ 5 mins 1/2 whirlfloc @ 10 mins Wyeast 1318 rinsed and pitched straight from the trub. Mashed at 66'C for 60 minutes, three step batch sparge total 26 litres. Made to 26 litres with an OG of 1.037 Was only 1 litre off my planned volume and bang on for OG once topped up. Grain Mill worked a treat with fully charged battery. Crown Urn brought 33 litres of Wort to the boil in 60 minutes. Plate Chiller cooled the whole Wort to 23'C in next to no time (I need to time this next time). Lots of fun with stuck sparge so this is the next process to master. In the end I closed the tap and stirred up the mash to get the final step to work. Kegged and bottled the Mild Ale today as I needed the yeast so I Hope the reused yeast works. Cheers Scottie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beerlust Posted July 19, 2014 Share Posted July 19, 2014 Hi Scottie. I'm glad the new setup is working well for you. The recipe looks nice too! I'm sure you'll figure out how to avoid the stuck sparging in no time. Cheers & good brewing, Anthony. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
antiphile Posted July 20, 2014 Share Posted July 20, 2014 Hi Mr Scott Far be it for me (the master of a total of 2 AG 3V brews so far) to be offering advice to you. Is it possible you're milling the grain too fine? My guru sets the mill roller width to 1.5 mm for mashing in my setup and I think the efficiency is 78% at that level. Although he has one helluva flash automatic grain mill. I don't have a false bottom in the esky, just a home-made copper manifold, and so far (touch wood) it's worked very well. Needless to say, there are no foolproof brewing methods: Simply too many things can and do go awry. To minimize the chances of a stuck mash, focus on five key points. 1. Remember that the first step of the brewing process is milling. Malt that is milled too fine or in a manner that destroys the integrity of the husk can cause problems when it comes time to lauter. Start the day on the right foot. Buy premilled malt, use a mill at your local homebrew store, or buy a mill designed to mill malt. Blenders, flour mills, and coffee grinders are not the way to start the day. Some brewers use rolling pins or beer bottles to crush the malt, but these methods are extremely tedious. Impatient brewers like me give up quickly on such awkward tools and break out the margarita blender to finish off the task. This is not recommended! 2. Every process requires a tool. The first time you brew all-grain is not the time to be too creative with tools. Colanders, coffee filters, and the like will probably cause problems. Use a proven tool for your lauter. The double-bucket method, a picnic cooler with a copper pipe manifold, and a large pot with a false bottom are three that work well. If you take the time to build a good tool, you will greatly reduce the chances of a complete disaster. 3. Cover the bottom of your lauter tun with foundation water before filling it with mash. If air bubbles form beneath the false bottom, they will greatly impede the flow of wort out of the lauter tun. If you make this mistake once, you probably will never forget to cover the bottom again! 4. Don't let the top of the grain bed get dry. Grain in an infusion mash is buoyant as long as there is water to keep it floating. If the grain bed runs dry, it will fall onto the false bottom and the chance of a stuck mash increases. Pay close attention during sparging. Add more water when needed or increase the flow of water if you are using a sparging device. 5. Don't get greedy! If the wort flow is nice and steady and the wort is clear, don't try to make things easier by turning the lauter process into a race. Not only will your yield decrease if you collect wort too rapidly, but your chances of sucking down the bed will greatly increase. Take it easy and collect the wort over a 45- to 60-minute period. Good luck, Phil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scottie Posted July 20, 2014 Share Posted July 20, 2014 Hey Phil Your question is a good one. I am only getting 71.3% efficiency though. It may be that my cheapo manifold (hollow braided hose) is getting crushed under the weight of my sparge volume. Never had a stuck sparge when I was only looking for 14 litres and only sparging with 7 litres of water. Maybe that I need a false bottom Thanks and Brewing Regards Scottie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canadian Eh!L Posted July 21, 2014 Author Share Posted July 21, 2014 Brew Day!! Goldie Pale ale 2.4Kg ESB Malt 7 Kg Pale Malt .5 Crystal 40L .25 Crystal 80L 25g Cascade (FWH) 5.5% 15g Magnum (60mins) 14.5% 20g Perle (40) 4.5% 40g Cascade (0) 5.5% 42L US-05 Mashed @ 68C OG 1.057 Brewhouse Efficiency 80% Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
antiphile Posted July 21, 2014 Share Posted July 21, 2014 Yum, yum, yum, my mountie friend! Just to clarify for my information though, is ESB malt the same as Marris Otter or is there a difference? Cheers Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canadian Eh!L Posted July 21, 2014 Author Share Posted July 21, 2014 Yum' date=' yum, yum, my mountie friend! Just to clarify for my information though, is ESB malt the same as Marris Otter or is there a difference? Cheers Phil[/quote'] Hi Phil, ESB (Extra Special British) malt is not MO but it is quite similar. It is a malt created at the Gambrinus Malting house here in western Canada. It is slightly darker than Pale malt and gives the beer a distinctly British malt flavour. It is also quite a bit cheaper than MO. Sadly, I don't think you Aussies can get the stuff. Never fear, though! You can always sub ESB for Marris Otter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ben 10 Posted July 21, 2014 Share Posted July 21, 2014 Brew day tomorrow. About to go and pick up 105kg of grain and 1kg of hops. I have two WL yeasts - Aussie Ale and German Kolsch , some slurry in the fridge, some lager, saison and US pale yeast.... hmm WTF to brew? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ben 10 Posted July 22, 2014 Share Posted July 22, 2014 Very simple Pale Ale first up. Style: Australian Pale Ale -------------------------- Batch Size (fermenter): 23.00 l Estimated OG: 1.042 SG Estimated Color: 8.9 EBC Estimated IBU: 39.4 IBUs Boil Time: 60 Minutes ------------ Amt Name Type # %/IBU 4.00 kg Pale Malt (Barrett Burston) (3.9 EBC) Grain 1 90.9 % 0.30 kg Wheat Malt, Malt Craft (Joe White) (3.5 Grain 2 6.8 % 0.10 kg Crystal (Joe White) (141.8 EBC) Grain 3 2.3 % 20.00 g Millenium [13.90 %] - Boil 60.0 min Hop 4 30.3 IBUs 25.00 g Cascade [6.70 %] - Boil 15.0 min Hop 5 9.1 IBUs 1.0 pkg Australian Ale Yeast (White Labs #WLP009 Yeast 6 - ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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