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Brew Day What Have Ya Got - 2023


iBooz2

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4 minutes ago, Mickep said:

Thanks Oz @ozdevil. I've confused everything with not making it clear I was wanting to add the digimash upgrade kit to the 35 liter Digiboil which KL sell.

Giving me a mash tun and the ability to sparge using that method.

here's the link

https://www.kegland.com.au/digimash-upgrade-kit-for-35l-digiboil.html

i understand what ya saying 

your false bottom you said you have will work great

the only things you need to buy

pro screen that fits in the mash tun 
the mash tun
and mashtun handle (out of stock(i can help you with the handle))
and the wire support

buying it as 1 kit or buying it individually is the same cost over all , you dont get  discount because you buy it as all upgrade kit


$59.99 = mash tun
$14.95 = maltpipe support the wire ring that will attach to the digiboil to support the maltpipe
$9.95 = malt pipe handle (ican supply you that free  you just pay postage or meet up with me in the city)
$19.95= pro series bottom
$69.95 = heavy duty false bottom (you already have), $18.95  for  light duty one
$4.95 = eyebolt assembly for false bottom

total cost  buying individually  with light duty false bottom =$128.70   buying separately (postage and handling isn't included)

if you purchase separately part from the handle and false bottom  you will only need 3-4 of them  making it cheaper to purchase individually rather then the kit










 

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16 minutes ago, ozdevil said:

i understand what ya saying 

your false bottom you said you have will work great

the only things you need to buy

pro screen that fits in the mash tun 
the mash tun
and mashtun handle (out of stock(i can help you with the handle))
and the wire support

buying it as 1 kit or buying it individually is the same cost over all , you dont get  discount because you buy it as all upgrade kit


$59.99 = mash tun
$14.95 = maltpipe support the wire ring that will attach to the digiboil to support the maltpipe
$9.95 = malt pipe handle (ican supply you that free  you just pay postage or meet up with me in the city)
$19.95= pro series bottom
$69.95 = heavy duty false bottom (you already have), $18.95  for  light duty one
$4.95 = eyebolt assembly for false bottom

total cost  buying individually  with light duty false bottom =$128.70   buying separately (postage and handling isn't included)

if you purchase separately part from the handle and false bottom  you will only need 3-4 of them  making it cheaper to purchase individually rather then the kit










 

Thanks heaps Oz. Muchly appreciated mate

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54 minutes ago, Mickep said:

I have the Pro Screen in my BrewZilla Mick, it gets rid of all of the clutter in the kettle as @ozdevil said, it is a hinderance with all of the pipes etc in there.

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7 hours ago, ozdevil said:

i understand what ya saying 

your false bottom you said you have will work great

the only things you need to buy

pro screen that fits in the mash tun 
the mash tun
and mashtun handle (out of stock(i can help you with the handle))
and the wire support

buying it as 1 kit or buying it individually is the same cost over all , you dont get  discount because you buy it as all upgrade kit


$59.99 = mash tun
$14.95 = maltpipe support the wire ring that will attach to the digiboil to support the maltpipe
$9.95 = malt pipe handle (ican supply you that free  you just pay postage or meet up with me in the city)
$19.95= pro series bottom
$69.95 = heavy duty false bottom (you already have), $18.95  for  light duty one
$4.95 = eyebolt assembly for false bottom

total cost  buying individually  with light duty false bottom =$128.70   buying separately (postage and handling isn't included)

if you purchase separately part from the handle and false bottom  you will only need 3-4 of them  making it cheaper to purchase individually rather then the kit










 

I don’t even use the handle to tbh!

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Coopers XPA

Got some new Medium Crystal grains.  So using 50% 140ish and 50% 100ish Crystal in this brew.

It will also be the 5th and final use of slurry harvested from the previous brews.

1896861273_Recipe1.png.1c62dd0fb075c121cd2e6d925b6b9fba.png

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Ready to mash in

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Gradually adding the grains

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Mid-mash stir

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Boil underway

IMG_3628.JPG.ff00231db40c0b492f2cbc8e25de29dc.JPG

Cooling

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Transferring

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Ready to ferment

IMG_3631.JPG.f6a8c4f0a5bdd8e37ddd11b73bbf63b8.JPG

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5 hours ago, Aussiekraut said:

These are the days where a 65l system would be handy. It'd shorten the brew day significantly.

Yep, AK that's why after quite some due diligence I went with the 70 L Nano Brewery setup.  Double batches for the time of one and the system has paid for itself a few times over so far.  Only problem is you need a lot more kegs to store the beers.

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9 minutes ago, BlackSands said:

@Shamus O'Seanimage.png.40efcd76c962fd0918ce1811f23c3726.png 

Some of those hop additions look rather precise!  

There is probably a few reasons why:

  • I use Brewfather software and I am usually aiming for a specific IBU.  Therefore I will adjust hop amounts in 1 gram increments until I get the IBU I am after.
  • I use a jewellery scale to weigh my hops and it shows 2 decimal place precision.  So I am pretty confident I can weigh to 1 gram accuracy.
  • I often start with a recipe done on a different system or to a different volume.  So when the software adjusts hop amounts to my system and volume, the amounts come out to 1 decimal place.  I do usually change them to the nearest whole number.  Even then, I check that the IBU's are still where I want them
  • The unusually precise 24.5g of 12.8% Simcoe was because that was what was left in the packet. I weighed it out and blindly put it back into the recipe and adjusted the amount of 13.1% Simcoe (in 1 g increments) to get the total 17 IBU I wanted from the 15 minute addition.
  • I am an engineer.
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Just now, iBooz2 said:

Yep, AK that's why after quite some due diligence I went with the 70 L Nano Brewery setup.  Double batches for the time of one and the system has paid for itself a few times over so far.  Only problem is you need a lot more kegs to store the beers.

Sorry, I am not seeing the problem.

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33 minutes ago, Shamus O'Sean said:
  • I am an engineer.

That explains a lot!  😄

However, 

33 minutes ago, Shamus O'Sean said:

I am usually aiming for a specific IBU

Can you really be that certain though?  As you know hop AA% degrades over time (at a rate dependent on storage conditions) and given all other variables involved it just seems to me that aiming for a precision of +/- 1g, or in fact even +/-5g is somewhat moot.   And then there's the matter of bitterness and flavour perception.  Are we even capable of making such fine distinctions that plus or minues a few grams would make?  I certainly don't think I can....  and definitely not after the first glass or three!  😄

 

Edited by BlackSands
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4 hours ago, BlackSands said:

That explains a lot!  😄

However, 

Can you really be that certain though?  As you know hop AA% degrades over time (at a rate dependent on storage conditions) and given all other variables involved it just seems to me that aiming for a precision of +/- 1g, or in fact even +/-5g is somewhat moot.   And then there's the matter of bitterness and flavour perception.  Are we even capable of making such fine distinctions that plus or minues a few grams would make?  I certainly don't think I can....  and definitely not after the first glass or three!  😄

 

You raise a number of good points.  I make no allowance for degradation of my hops in my calculations.  I keep them in the freezer, but once a packet is opened, I do not purge them of oxygen before resealing.

Although I pay attention to what the software says, a few grams one way or another does not make a huge difference.  Plus, as you say, we cannot really pick the difference between a few IBU's either.  

There are loads of variables affecting certainty.  However, we have to start somewhere.  Can I make the same beer exactly the same a second time around?  Probably not.  My own brewing processes are not consistent enough.  Can I make good beers?  Absolutely.  My recent Coopers clone efforts are evidence of that.  Not the same as Coopers.  But lovely beers in their own right.

I like detail, because that is me.  But perhaps I should relax a bit.  I think the Americans probably do not measure their hops more accurately than 1/8th of an ounce.  Not because they can't, but because it barely makes a difference.

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2 hours ago, DavidM said:

As a K&K with bit's brewer, I read this stuff and just think What!

But the Man (@Shamus O'Sean) is a Perfectionist

 And I/We can only marvel at what he does.

Well Done Young Man

Thanks for the kind words @DavidM.

It's all about doing what's right for you.

I made nearly 100 kits n bits brews before going all grain.  And I still make an occasional knb brew.  I wanted to make sure this hobby was for me before I invested heavily in a $1,000 brewing system.

Now that I have, I like to use the tools available.  Do you need to measure your hops to the nearest gram?  No.  But if you can, why not.  Some folks probably buy 100g of hops and try to figure out how to get X brews out of them.  I buy 100g of hops and if I need a few grams more for my next brew, I'll buy another 100g because I will still use them eventually.

As some bugger once said "life is too short"

Edited by Shamus O'Sean
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12 minutes ago, iBooz2 said:

I like, I like, but where pray tell did you get the Danish Lager Yeast from you sneaky thing @Greenyinthewestofsydney

I've had it for about 4 or 5 years mate. I haven't used it for over a year but managed to get it going then built it up over 4 starters. Going to do a carlsberg clone then an elephant beer clone using the slurry provided the Reschs batch comes out ok. I tasted the the unhopped starter and it tasted pretty  clean so I'm confident it's not in bad shape.

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19 hours ago, iBooz2 said:

Yep, AK that's why after quite some due diligence I went with the 70 L Nano Brewery setup.  Double batches for the time of one and the system has paid for itself a few times over so far.  Only problem is you need a lot more kegs to store the beers.

What is it you're using? I'm still umming and ahhing about what to get. Stick with what I know and replace the current, sbent out of shape 40l Guten with a current model? Get a 70l one? Go for the 35l BZ4 or the 65l version of it? The 70l Grainfather is too dear for my liking, so that is out fo the question. It's easier to buy a car than figure out what brewing system I want 🙂 

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8 hours ago, Aussiekraut said:

What is it you're using?  🙂 

AK, I am using one of Cheeky Peaks set ups.  Basically one of these, plus a 70 fine mesh basket, gas burner and a good SS head pump and an Inky.

The beauty of this system is you can replace the electrical element if it dies, and of course the pump or Inky so it was the only way to go IMO.

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Last Brew For A While

BeerSmith 2 Recipe Printout - http://www.beersmith.com
Recipe: Catahrina Sour

Recipe Specifications
--------------------------

Batch Size (fermenter): 21.00 L   
Estimated OG: 1.061 SG
Estimated Color: 6.6 EBC
Estimated IBU: 4.9 IBUs

Ingredients:
------------
Amt              Name                                             Type          #          %/IBU         Volume        
2.50 kg          Pale Malt (Barrett Burston) (3.9 EBC)            Grain         1          45.5 %        1.63 L        
2.50 kg          Wheat Malt (Barrett Burston) (3.0 EBC)           Grain         2          45.5 %        1.63 L        
0.50 kg          Carapils (Briess) (3.0 EBC)                      Grain         3          9.1 %         0.33 L        
10.00 g          Fuggles [4.30 %] - First Wort 60.0 min           Hop           4          4.9 IBUs      -             
Philly sour
Fruit
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