Jump to content
Coopers Community

All Grain for beginners


ozdevil

Recommended Posts

9 minutes ago, Mickep said:

Sorry for the Bump on this. This is a really cool vid for anyone thinking about having a crack at BIAB AG.  And for gimpy's like me very easy to understand. Just gotta work out how to install a cheap overhead pulley system. 😂

I looked at BIAB but decided I was better off with an all in one unit like the BrewZilla. It is still a bit scary raising the malt pipe for the sparge, I could easily lower the height of the unit but I have it on an old metal floor type filing cabinet on wheels, all I have to do is step up onto a milk crate to lift it but you have to be spot on, it's hot & heavy.

The overhead pulley system is not an option for me so I have to perfect my method.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 5/15/2022 at 8:27 PM, Classic Brewing Co said:

I didn't skim but I have realised I should have taken it of HH & set it to a lower boil temp but too late now, it's already cubed.

Cheers

I usually let the grains drip out while the kettle is heating up and once I hit 90C, I start stirring the break back into the wort. Just gently moving things around and that seems to do the trick nicely. By the time the boil is in full swing, there is hardly any break left floating on top. 

I always keep the power up and use the full 2500W available. I have seen videos of people keeping the power up high until boil is reached, then dropping it down but somehow, I can't quite see how reducing the power would lead to a less vigorous boil to he honest. If the temp is set to 100C, it will boil at 100C, regardless of how much power is used. The only difference is that it takes a little longer to adjust the temp back to 100 if it happens to drop, when using less power. Then again, I am not a scientist.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 minutes ago, Aussiekraut said:

I usually let the grains drip out while the kettle is heating up and once I hit 90C, I start stirring the break back into the wort. Just gently moving things around and that seems to do the trick nicely. By the time the boil is in full swing, there is hardly any break left floating on top. 

I always keep the power up and use the full 2500W available. I have seen videos of people keeping the power up high until boil is reached, then dropping it down but somehow, I can't quite see how reducing the power would lead to a less vigorous boil to he honest. If the temp is set to 100C, it will boil at 100C, regardless of how much power is used. The only difference is that it takes a little longer to adjust the temp back to 100 if it happens to drop, when using less power. Then again, I am not a scientist.

I was very surprised this morning when transferred from the cube to the FV, the wort was clear ( lots of foam & bubbles ). After seeing all of that green gunk from the hops I thought it would would have been different.

I followed the instructions & as you say it once it is boiling, it is boiling, turn it down & you lose the boil, I must admit the only thing I should have done was take it of HH & turn to 99c as I had a volcano going on Sunday. I only had the 1900w element on once I acheived the boil but I think I have made beer again.

I was disappointed in the final volume level as I did allow for the boil off - I think I didn't use enough water in the sparge.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

15 minutes ago, Classic Brewing Co said:

 

15 minutes ago, Classic Brewing Co said:

I was disappointed in the final volume level as I did allow for the boil off - I think I didn't use enough water in the sparge.

Did you allow for

Grain absorbation

Deadspace as well

 

So you need to allow for the deadspace under the tap as that un recoverable 

By memory for bz 35 3 1.1  that is:

3l for boil

6.5l mash tun loss

1l for trube/chiller loss

2l for fv loss

You stated  you only allowed  for boil loss

 

You set those figures  in brewfather here

Click on profiles/equipment  punch them figures in

 

Then select your recipe

Click on equipment and choose the profile  you just saved in profiles/equipment 

 

Then it will tell  you exactly what you need for your mash and sparge  to get your desired volume

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

28 minutes ago, ozdevil said:

You stated  you only allowed  for boil loss

Yeah well that was just my term for describing the overall thing. I spent an 1 hour & 1/2 trying to enter the grain etc into Brew Father & I still can't get my head around it so I guessed the amount for each & was I wrong.

I understand the basic workings off the app but I still have trouble trying to enter stuff, I will keep trying but it does my head in 😬

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Classic Brewing Co said:

Yeah well that was just my term for describing the overall thing. I spent an 1 hour & 1/2 trying to enter the grain etc into Brew Father & I still can't get my head around it so I guessed the amount for each & was I wrong.

I understand the basic workings off the app but I still have trouble trying to enter stuff, I will keep trying but it does my head in 😬

I will be studying BrewFather app tutorials to assist me as every time I try to complete a step it throws up a term not I have never heard of, I want to get this right to achieve the target volume & finish with the correct amount of beer. !! 

Edited by Classic Brewing Co
  • Like 1
  • Sad 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 minutes ago, Red devil 44 said:

Looks good @Classic Brewing Co

Thanks RD I realise know I didn't use enough of the sparge water, I had 9l of de-chlorinated, boiled water on the stove @ 75c !!

I also should have taken it off HH as I would have lost more water, that's why I fell short & of course the app is still an issue with me.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...
  • 3 months later...
28 minutes ago, Classic Brewing Co said:

Hey Mick, are you going to step up?

Love to mate, but unfortunately the plan to do so has been delayed due to lack of work.....I'm hoping to get back to work in the New year fingers crossed....I was starting to think that BIAB might be a really cheap alternative for now....minimal outlay and a way of getting into AG - well in a way.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...