Yeast Code R3549

[Taipan315]

Can any one provide information on this one YEAST R3549 doesn't appear in standard list.

Craft Brew Kit - MR Beer - Diablo IPA

List indicates it should be R3426?

Edited August 4, 2021 by Coopers DIY Beer Team
Removed Yeast Codes PDF - As No Longer Current

[ben 10]

perhaps @Coopers DIY Beer Team can help

[jamiek86]

@Coopers DIY Beer Team

[Classic Brewing Co]

OK I keep my yeasts in a small Tupperware container in the Bar Fridge. Here is a photo of the yeasts, mainly Coopers that I have in there ATM, the one on the right I noted the BB date to give me some idea on age. I have been using specialist yeasts for a while so if these are no good I will chuck them. Anybody know ? I think @iBooz2  or   @Journeyman    had a post on the subject.

Cheers Phil

[Journeyman]

15 minutes ago, CLASSIC said:

OK I keep my yeasts in a small Tupperware container in the Bar Fridge. Here is a photo of the yeasts, mainly Coopers that I have in there ATM, the one on the right I noted the BB date to give me some idea on age. I have been using specialist yeasts for a while so if these are no good I will chuck them. Anybody know ? I think @iBooz2  or   @Journeyman    had a post on the subject.

Those 5 digit numbers are manufacture dates. e.g. 01221 = 12th day in 2021. 31020 is 310th day in 2020.

You throw them out and I will cease talking to you.  At worst they are yeast nutrients for your specialty yeasts - quick boil and your fav yeast will go active better than you've seen before.

[Classic Brewing Co]

5 minutes ago, Journeyman said:

Those 5 digit numbers are manufacture dates. e.g. 01221 = 12th day in 2021. 31020 is 310th day in 2020.

You throw them out and I will cease talking to you.  At worst they are yeast nutrients for your specialty yeasts - quick boil and your fav yeast will go active better than you've seen before.

OK great that's good, so you reckon boil one pack in say coffee cup size & chuck it in with the other yeast ?

[Journeyman]

18 minutes ago, CLASSIC said:

OK great that's good, so you reckon boil one pack in say coffee cup size & chuck it in with the other yeast ?

That's what I do, although I usually have some wort to boil so ti goes in there. Pretty sure a hops tea would be enough to kill it at 85° but I haven't done that yet.

Could be, along with the vitality starters, why I get such quick activity in my brews.

[jamiek86]

1 hour ago, Journeyman said:

That's what I do, although I usually have some wort to boil so ti goes in there. Pretty sure a hops tea would be enough to kill it at 85° but I haven't done that yet.

Could be, along with the vitality starters, why I get such quick activity in my brews.

Do you know if it matters if you boil up an old ale yeast then chuck it in a batch of lager with different yeast if that makes a difference or not?

[Journeyman]

14 minutes ago, jamiek86 said:

Do you know if it matters if you boil up an old ale yeast then chuck it in a batch of lager with different yeast if that makes a difference or not?

It matters not. The yeast is dead and the live yeast scavenges the parts.

[Classic Brewing Co]

That was going to be my next question, today I am doing a 1.7 Brew Craft Mexican Lager, the kit contained 1kg Brewblend No 10 ( 75% Dextrose/25% Maltodextrin ) which I am thinking of replacing with 1.7kg LME - maybe a bit much for all of it.

The supplied yeast was US-05 so you are saying if I take a Coopers Ale yeast from the fridge as well, stir into a cup of boiling water, stir, cool & tip it in ??

[Classic Brewing Co]

For what it's worth I have 25gm of Saaz as well.

[Coopers DIY Beer Team]

For the most up-to-date product specifications, please refer to the FAQ's, particularly Product Info: https://www.diybeer.com/au/faqs/#topic-FAQ_4

 

Cheers!

 

[Classic Brewing Co]

[iBooz2]

14 hours ago, CLASSIC said:

OK I keep my yeasts in a small Tupperware container in the Bar Fridge. Here is a photo of the yeasts, mainly Coopers that I have in there ATM, the one on the right I noted the BB date to give me some idea on age.

Phil, get into the habit of writing on the yeast sachet with a fine tip texta pen as soon as you get them home and before you park them in the fridge.

1. The kit can or pack it came off or from.  Such as APA
2. The date you bought that can or pack.  Such as MAY21

Then you can sort them into two containers like I have, one is for fresh yeast sachets and the other old or suspect sachets.  Obviously one is labeled "F" the other "O".

When you get some new kit yeast incoming into the brewery of the same kind as your fresh yeast then go through and move the oldest of that same kind to the old or suspect container.

• That way when you need a fresh yeast sachet for your ferment then you just have to grab the fresh yeast container "F" and grab the kind (strain) you want with the oldest date (that is if it is still in date as maybe a long time since buying that particular kit etc. so be careful).
• If you only want to make some nutrient for a starter or batch then just grab the old or suspect container "O" and choose the oldest sachet you find in there, it does not matter what strain it is and boil the poor buggers up for food (minimum boil time applies) and toss them into your wort.

Edited August 4, 2021 by iBooz2

[Classic Brewing Co]

6 hours ago, iBooz2 said:

Phil, get into the habit of writing on the yeast sachet with a fine tip texta pen as soon as you get them home and before you park them in the fridge.

Hi Al, thanks, good sound advice. What would you suggest re:  (minimum boil time applies) I just used a small sterilised gravy style saucepan yesterday & boiled it for a few minutes.

The brew I put down with US-05 is kicking along quite nicely.

Cheers

Phil

[Shamus O'Sean]

1 hour ago, CLASSIC said:

Hi Al, thanks, good sound advice. What would you suggest re:  (minimum boil time applies) I just used a small sterilised gravy style saucepan yesterday & boiled it for a few minutes.

The brew I put down with US-05 is kicking along quite nicely.

Cheers

Phil

Hi Phil, 5 minutes would be fine.  I sometimes add an old yeast when boiling the wort from a grain steep, like you would have done for the Coopers Australian IPA recipe.  I have so many old yeast packets, that whether it is needed or not, I just grab one and boil away.

[Classic Brewing Co]

1 minute ago, Shamus O'Sean said:

Hi Phil, 5 minutes would be fine.  I sometimes add an old yeast when boiling the wort from a grain steep, like you would have done for the Coopers Australian IPA recipe.  I have so many old yeast packets, that whether it is needed or not, I just grab one and boil away.

Thanks Shamus, that's about what I figured, I couldn't see much point in doing it for much longer - seems to work pretty good, I put the brew together & pitched at 2.00pm so given there is US-05 involved that's quick.

Chees.

[Shamus O'Sean]

1 minute ago, CLASSIC said:

Thanks Shamus, that's about what I figured, I couldn't see much point in doing it for much longer - seems to work pretty good, I put the brew together & pitched at 2.00pm so given there is US-05 involved that's quick.

Chees.

Oh, by the way, I do not bother sterilising the saucepan first.  I figure the heat is enough to kill any bugs on the surface of the pot, even if the boiling water does not touch it.  What is your view on that being the cook that you are?  Should I, in fact, be sterilising the pot first?

[Classic Brewing Co]

2 minutes ago, Shamus O'Sean said:

Oh, by the way, I do not bother sterilising the saucepan first.  I figure the heat is enough to kill any bugs on the surface of the pot, even if the boiling water does not touch it.  What is your view on that being the cook that you are?  Should I, in fact, be sterilising the pot first?

You know what Shamus I sterilise/sanitise everything, just cant help it. It is a good practice to get into but I try not to go overboard. I have built up a collection of items that are only used for brewing, Stirring spoons, can opener, sugar measures etc  therefore are pretty much always 'safe'.  The saucepan I use is very small, you can buy them at Coles for a few $$. Once they have been sterlised they are like bottles, only need rinsing in hot water ( for glass ) but I usually do it again anyway.

[Journeyman]

On 8/4/2021 at 1:09 PM, Coopers DIY Beer Team said:

For the most up-to-date product specifications, please refer to the FAQ's, particularly Product Info: https://www.diybeer.com/au/faqs/#topic-FAQ_4

That link gives a 404 error from us.diybeer.com - tried playing with it to find the correct address but no luck.

[Journeyman]

On 8/5/2021 at 8:10 AM, Shamus O'Sean said:

Oh, by the way, I do not bother sterilising the saucepan first.  I figure the heat is enough to kill any bugs on the surface of the pot, even if the boiling water does not touch it.  What is your view on that being the cook that you are?  Should I, in fact, be sterilising the pot first?

There's nothing that might affect the beer that will survive a saucepan that gets hot enough to boil water to make nutrient for the yeast. Maybe if you let it cool on the bench there's a possibility but then that would be the same for a sterile pot anyway - the bugs would settle on the liquid and start in on the dead yeast.

That's why I always pour mine into the FV with the wort already in it and cooled before I pitch the yeast - the small amount of hot water doesn't do much to the temp and after a stir can't leave hots spots to kill my good yeast.

[Journeyman]

On 8/4/2021 at 1:09 PM, Coopers DIY Beer Team said:

For the most up-to-date product specifications, please refer to the FAQ's, particularly Product Info: https://www.diybeer.com/au/faqs/#topic-FAQ_4

Hmm... I just got sent some Mr Beer kits and R3549 is the yeast. And that's not on the latest list, which looks pretty much the same as the sticky'd post in this forum. I'm guessing it's an updated C=L yeast?

 

[iBooz2]

Mark,  I have all the yeast codes in a word documents and spreadsheet which was recently updated but it does not have the R3549 either.  Suspect it is an updated C+L blend like you say.

Maybe Coopers are running the sachets through a bit different to what they were before as they previously stated the date code is the only code on these Mr. Beer kit sachets as per below.  Hopefully the @Coopers DIY Beer Team  can let us know.

"All of the Mr Beer Brewing Extracts use the C+L blend. The Julian Date Code is the only code listed on the sachet."

[Coopers DIY Beer Team]

Thanks for the heads-up! We'd been holding off on updating the yeast description for the 1.3kg Mr Beer Craft Series in the FAQ's until the brews with the new yeast blend were out there. We're now providing a blend of our proprietary Coopers ale yeast and another ale strain. Let us know what you think but we reckon you'll be happy with, because we certainly are!  

 

[iBooz2]

Thank you for clarifying that.   @Coopers DIY Beer Team  One other question - now that these are an all ale yeast blend, is there any changes to the recommended fermentation temperature ranges ?