Yeast Thread 2021

[Prost]

@jamiek86 thanks for your suggestions

[Pezzza]

14 hours ago, Prost said:

Hmmm, now I am confused

Suggest you throw all the tin yeast plus a US05 in mate and let 'er rip... surely that should get things moving and if it is an overpitch the result will just be more clean.

Others may have better advice but reckon that is the way forward Prost. 

But be a little careful with the temp... as 25 ambient may see the beer go up a few more degrees on top of that as the ferment generates its own heat i.e. exothermic... mmm...  28 would be too high... myself... I reckon 22 is warm...  18 degrees is the go... any way of keeping this baby a bit cooler Prost?  Sorry to be a PITA mate 

And what Jamie @jamiek86 Jamie says about the froth and bubble kräussen - that is a good bit of practical advice - you don't want your FV overflowing with froth and bubble not a good thing to have going on re infection and just making a mess I guess... HTH mate

 

US05 Fermentation temperature:

12-25°C (53.6-77°F) ideally 15-22°C (59-71.6°F)

Edited February 24, 2021 by Graubart

[Prost]

21 minutes ago, Graubart said:

Suggest you throw all the tin yeast plus a US05 in mate and let 'er rip... surely that should get things moving and if it is an overpitch the result will just be more clean

that sounds like good advise

22 minutes ago, Graubart said:

But be a little careful with the temp... as 25 ambient may see the beer go up a few more degrees on top of that as the ferment generates its own heat i.e. exothermic... mmm...  28 would be too high... myself... I reckon 22 is warm...  18 degrees is the go... any way of keeping this baby a bit cooler Prost?
 

 

yeah I think so too, this is actually my mates first "monster project", I'm just doing the dirty work for him

will suggest to wrap the fv and throw some ice on top

@jamiek86 I know this is good advice from Jamie and maybe it will only be 50 liters, I haven't seen the fermenter yet.

some info on the 60l FV suggests 2 batches and others 3

@Graubartand @jamiek86 thanks for some excellent advise, I shall report back how it all went

 

[jamiek86]

@Prost I just know with a single batch letting the temp get to 24 by accident using Nottingham produced a good krausen 5 or 6 litres worth of fv headspace. As the bearded one says a triple batch would produce more heat and way more krausen. I wouldn't even try this without a krausen collar, you do have advantage of 60 litres to work with over my 30. I would beef up a double batch if it was me but good luck which ever way you go.

If you have a storage container you can add frozen soft drink bottles filled with water too you will find keeping temp down easier but involves more lifting.

[Prost]

9 minutes ago, jamiek86 said:

@Prost I just know with a single batch letting the temp get to 24 by accident using Nottingham produced a good krausen 5 or 6 litres worth of fv headspace. As the bearded one says a triple batch would produce more heat and way more krausen. I wouldn't even try this without a krausen collar, you do have advantage of 60 litres to work with over my 30. I would beef up a double batch if it was me but good luck which ever way you go.

If you have a storage container you can add frozen soft drink bottles filled with water too you will find keeping temp down easier but involves more lifting.

More great advice, cheers

[Classic Brewing Co]

That's one hell of a krausen !!

[Prost]

@Graubart@jamiek86just a quick update, saw the fermentor today and indeed there is not much room above the 60l mark for the Krausen.

So it's gonna be a 2batch job only with the 2 tin yeast and 1 US-05 thrown in for good measure

[jamiek86]

hate it when I'm right  not too bad if dont mind extra bitterness and alcohol etc. When used to standard batches always worth a thought before jump into triple.  You could always bump up that double with the 3 brew enhancer like I said. If doing it standard the 2 kit yeast be plenty

[Prost]

8 minutes ago, jamiek86 said:

hate it when I'm right  not too bad if dont mind extra bitterness and alcohol etc. When used to standard batches always worth a thought before jump into triple.  You could always bump up that double with the 3 brew enhancer like I said. If doing it standard the 2 kit yeast be plenty

Yep cheers

[Prost]

1 hour ago, jamiek86 said:

if dont mind extra bitterness and alcohol etc.

@jamiek86Hmmm, just realized. Did you mean the extra yeast (US-05) will give it extra alcohol?

Edited February 25, 2021 by Prost

[jamiek86]

12 minutes ago, Prost said:

@jamiek86Hmmm, just realized. Did you mean the extra yeast (US-05) will give it extra alcohol?

no I meant if done the triple batch to 50 litres more alcohol and bitterness more malty too.  For every kit and brew enhancer you only need kit yeast start adding specialty yeast if after a particular flavour or if bumping up the alcohol.

[Prost]

20 minutes ago, jamiek86 said:

no I meant if done the triple batch to 50 litres more alcohol and bitterness more malty too.  For every kit and brew enhancer you only need kit yeast start adding specialty yeast if after a particular flavour or if bumping up the alcohol.

Ah, I see cheers.

And when do you add specialty yeast instead of or as well as kit yeast?

Edited February 25, 2021 by Prost
added line

[jamiek86]

17 minutes ago, Prost said:

Ah, I see cheers.

And when do you add specialty yeast instead of or as well as kit yeast?

if you want to use a kit and more than kg of fermentables to boost up the ABV. You don't really need both kit and specialty yeast unless doing 2 can and kilo in 23 litres. Like I said they all have different flavours some of us replace kit yeast with specialty in single batches but depends what after. Start reading random recepies and brew days on here plenty info on what what

[Pezzza]

12 hours ago, Prost said:

saw the fermentor today and indeed there is not much room above the 60l mark for the Krausen.

So it's gonna be a 2batch job only with the 2 tin yeast and 1 US-05 thrown in for good measure

Yeah well spotted and well done @jamiek86 JK for mentioning that mate... could've been a major disaster and expensive fkkkkup.  Well done JK!

Yeah safety first mate - stick to the two - that'll be better. 

[Pezzza]

11 hours ago, Prost said:

Did you mean the extra yeast (US-05) will give it extra alcohol?

Alc is purely related to the amount of fermentables Herr Prosit...

Fermentables are 'simple sugars' (as opposed to complex carbohydrates held in the grain seed to begin with as a reserve of energy to fire up the baby plant at germination) that are able to be metabolised by yeast into Alc, CO2 and other metabolites like esters that deliver flavours...

Well and I guess dilution has an impact... the more water the ABV will drop... 

If yer wanna crank ABV (alc by volume) then you need to add more malted grain mashed and boiled, or more liquid malt, more Coopers kits, more BEs or dry malt, or more Dextrose (and hopefully not, more cane sugar)...

Matter cannot be created nor destroyed... so if you want more "octane" - yer gotta add some more fermentables to make it ; )

The yeast are only yer mates that are doing the heavy lifting and making beer outta malt and hops and water : )

Adding more yeast is just increasing the Team doing the hard work and you may or may not need it depending upon what sorta brew you're doing...

HTH

[Prost]

49 minutes ago, Graubart said:

Alc is purely related to the amount of fermentables Herr Prosit...

Fermentables are 'simple sugars' (as opposed to complex carbohydrates held in the grain seed to begin with as a reserve of energy to fire up the baby plant at germination) that are able to be metabolised by yeast into Alc, CO2 and other metabolites like esters that deliver flavours...

Well and I guess dilution has an impact... the more water the ABV will drop... 

If yer wanna crank ABV (alc by volume) then you need to add more malted grain mashed and boiled, or more liquid malt, more Coopers kits, more BEs or dry malt, or more Dextrose (and hopefully not, more cane sugar)...

Matter cannot be created nor destroyed... so if you want more "octane" - yer gotta add some more fermentables to make it ; )

The yeast are only yer mates that are doing the heavy lifting and making beer outta malt and hops and water : )

Adding more yeast is just increasing the Team doing the hard work and you may or may not need it depending upon what sorta brew you're doing...

HTH

Thanks, that's a really good explanation, even "Herr Prosit" will understand

[Hilltop hops]

One for @Green Blob did you bottle any brews when you used Philly Sour? I read its not suitable for bottle conditioning. I filled a keg and bottled remainder so see what happens.

[ben 10]

7 hours ago, Hilltop hops said:

One for @Green Blob did you bottle any brews when you used Philly Sour? I read its not suitable for bottle conditioning. I filled a keg and bottled remainder so see what happens.

No, only kegged

[Shamus O'Sean]

14 hours ago, Hilltop hops said:

One for @Green Blob did you bottle any brews when you used Philly Sour? I read its not suitable for bottle conditioning. I filled a keg and bottled remainder so see what happens.

I will be very interested to read your feedback.  I almost always bottle a few before kegging the rest.  I have not used the Philly Sour yeast yet, but I plan to soon.

Do you have a link or something to where you read about it not being suitable for bottle conditioning? 

[Hilltop hops]

2 hours ago, Shamus O'Sean said:

I will be very interested to read your feedback.  I almost always bottle a few before kegging the rest.  I have not used the Philly Sour yeast yet, but I plan to soon.

Do you have a link or something to where you read about it not being suitable for bottle conditioning? 

https://www.lallemandbrewing.com/en/united-states/blog/philly-sour-faq-2/#:~:text=4.,fermenting strain during bottle conditioning.

[Barramullafella]

I was thinking I might try using the yeast in the bottom of bottle of homebrew ale to start the next brew in FV. I figure the yeast would be less contaminated with unfermented residue which may be left in the FV after first fermenting stage. Does this sound feasible? Also, years ago I tried weird experiments [no not those sorts] with yeast and three stage brewing. I cultured a yeast off a bush lemon and when it had multiplied enough I pitched into a Coopers Lager wort. The resulting taste a few weeks down the track was a beer with a lot of citrus taste which was overpowering for me, but some may like the fruity flavour.  I found out how different yeasts can impart a flavour to the beer. Cheers.  

[Pezzza]

Keen for anyone experienced in the Lager/Pils game... first time for me that I have had a seriously festy smelly ferment.... from 1064 down to 1010 w Dubbya 34 at 14 degC and then 20 for the DiAc rest...  AG freshly milled Weyermann Pils malted grain in the main... had pitched Dubbya slurry which was too tired... so threw in Sachet of fresh dry W34/70 and off it went... it is slowing down now and the ol' smelly eggy odour has all but gone... just interesting as have done quite a few Dubbyas before and not had the honking fumes.... Any Lager brewers out there with feedback why maybe some cooler temp Lager/Pils brews w festy smells and some without?

[Pezzza]

3 hours ago, Barramullafella said:

I was thinking I might try using the yeast in the bottom of bottle of homebrew ale to start the next brew in FV. I figure the yeast would be less contaminated with unfermented residue which may be left in the FV after first fermenting stage. Does this sound feasible? 

Mate maybe you could drink a few brews and bulk up the bottoms of the bottles to start things off with a slightly higher population... the CCA people say like collect the yeast from a six pack... probs could do it from one... but maybe safer to culture new population with bigger base population to begin with re wild yeasts etc.

Pretty amazing experiment there with the Bush Lemon...  how did you do the culturing of the yeast off the Lemon Barra?

[Barramullafella]

1 hour ago, Graubart said:

Mate maybe you could drink a few brews and bulk up the bottoms of the bottles to start things off with a slightly higher population... the CCA people say like collect the yeast from a six pack... probs could do it from one... but maybe safer to culture new population with bigger base population to begin with re wild yeasts etc.

Pretty amazing experiment there with the Bush Lemon...  how did you do the culturing of the yeast off the Lemon Barra?

I was reading somewhere back peeps using a few bottles of yeast deposit, and with what ya saying is probably a good reason to do it that way. For the lemon yeast culture I picked a lemon off a tree down the back yard and then gave a quick rinse in clean water to remove bat and bird crud. Then, sliced the skin off lemon and placed in a small glass bottle along with a teaspoon or sugar and malt extract. Filled with about 250 water and placed a balloon over the top to keep the bugs out. After a couple of days the balloon started to inflate and a few days later there was white yeast appearing on the bottom of bottle. It may have been about 10-14 days before I had a good sample of yeast. I tipped out the water and chucked the yeast into a lager wort. Fermented as per usual, bottled and sat it for a few weeks before trying.  

Edited February 28, 2021 by Barramullafella

[jamiek86]

@Graubart when i was just a newbie on this forum before doing my first proper lager at cooler temps i mentioned the eggy smell i had read about and had once before. There were very few responses from others to say had had same thing apart from otto said maby once or twice and he brews them all time. The last 5 pilsner/lagers i have done every single one has had it until after a few days of d rest.  All have had either coopers lager yeast s-189 or good old dubbya all same smell mate and all have tasted fantastic in keg with no off taste or smell remaining. Some brewed on 14 some on 16 all same smell. even a couple of pale ales with hybrid yeast half ale hale lager have had faint egg smell but nothing like full blown lager yeast 2 packs or so.