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Fail thread (mistakes you’ve made 2021)


MitchBastard

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On 9/26/2021 at 10:07 AM, Classic Brewing Co said:

I would give it a week & if it tastes like beer whack a heap of hops in but it would be worth keeping an eye on it as there is always the chance of infection.  You may experience some 'off' tastes but as you say if the buckets were sanitised you may get away with it.

Cheers.

Checked the fv this arvo. Very light krausen ring and not much activity (day 3). Pitched some harvested yeast in and got a slight amount of activity. Decided to draw a hydrometer sample. Brew is sitting at 1007. Couldn't resist a taste test and (very surprisingly) it's actually pretty darn tasty. Think i may have dodged a bullet with this one. 

Time will tell.

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2 minutes ago, Spursman said:

Checked the fv this arvo. Very light krausen ring and not much activity (day 3). Pitched some harvested yeast in and got a slight amount of activity. Decided to draw a hydrometer sample. Brew is sitting at 1007. Couldn't resist a taste test and (very surprisingly) it's actually pretty darn tasty. Think i may have dodged a bullet with this one. 

Time will tell.

Sounds promising, you will know by the smell & of course taste as time goes on.

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On 9/26/2021 at 7:39 AM, Spursman said:

Mixed wort, covered then went away to rehydrate yeast. Returned later to a puddle of wort on the bench and floor from a leaky tap. Panic stations! Clearly the added pressure of a full wort had found me out!

@Spursman Yep had this happened to me too.  Bloody blue fermenter drum from Bunnings had a stuffed thread, suspect someone had over wound the bung or a tap and stripped the drum thread, then took it back and got another one.  Bunnings put this dud one back on the shelf and then I came along and bought it. 

Anyway stuck with it now so glued the bung in with plastic rated superglue.  I bought another new one, checked the thread before paying and keep this one as a spare now.  They are very handy in case of a mishap like ours and they are excellent for when you want to do a dirty batch and pitch fresh wort straight back onto the trub.  Mix up you new batch of wort in the sanitised spare, bottle or keg the original brew from the original FV and then tip the new batch straight back in.

Hope your turns out ok there mate.  Maybe buy yourself some spare taps and "O" rings too.  Ya just never know.

Edited by iBooz2
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I have 2 x 15l blue containers from Bunnings that I use for water from my distiller and also from my RO filter to use with brews. I was sanitising 1 of them a while ago and put some stellarsan in it and gave it a good shake, that resulted in me getting sanitised. The leak was from the lid so I checked that and the sealing washer was in place in the lid so I was wondering. The problem was that the sealing surface that the sealing washer contacts on the container was so rough the washer had zero chance of sealing. The other blue container I have though is fine. I can not even blame the Chinese as the blue containers are manufactured in Australia. I guess that it is an example of building a product down to a price rather than building up to a quality level!

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1 hour ago, kmar92 said:

I have 2 x 15l blue containers from Bunnings that I use for water from my distiller and also from my RO filter to use with brews. I was sanitising 1 of them a while ago and put some stellarsan in it and gave it a good shake, that resulted in me getting sanitised. The leak was from the lid so I checked that and the sealing washer was in place in the lid so I was wondering. The problem was that the sealing surface that the sealing washer contacts on the container was so rough the washer had zero chance of sealing. The other blue container I have though is fine. I can not even blame the Chinese as the blue containers are manufactured in Australia. I guess that it is an example of building a product down to a price rather than building up to a quality level!

I agree, in an attempt to say in the market against imports, some products produced by Australian manufactures are junk.

Some previous and current purchases I have made from the Big Green Shed claiming to be made in Australia leave a lot lacking as far as quality goes.

Edited by Pickles Jones
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On 9/27/2021 at 7:42 PM, kmar92 said:

I have 2 x 15l blue containers from Bunnings that I use for water from my distiller and also from my RO filter to use with brews. I was sanitising 1 of them a while ago and put some stellarsan in it and gave it a good shake, that resulted in me getting sanitised. The leak was from the lid so I checked that and the sealing washer was in place in the lid so I was wondering. The problem was that the sealing surface that the sealing washer contacts on the container was so rough the washer had zero chance of sealing. The other blue container I have though is fine. I can not even blame the Chinese as the blue containers are manufactured in Australia. I guess that it is an example of building a product down to a price rather than building up to a quality level!

I used the 30l versions for many years, as fermenters. In fact since the days that they were white! On another forum the rough finish was a constant complaint, and easily fixed by taking a sharp box cutter / stanley knife and running round the opening at a 45 degree angle to shave a strip of plastic all round, and tidy up the outer circle as well. Generally fixed the problem.

Anyone still using these as a fermenter, the rubber O ring is ideal for trapping clingwrap - no need for an airlock.

 

42003205_fermentingshelf.thumb.jpg.0f841a58b48dc8206ab04e3823682e50.jpg

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I decided to do 2 brews at the same time. Big pot with 1.5 kg Ale malt + 400 g oats in a mash. I used the induction plate to bring it up to mash temp then the sous vide to keep it there.

The smaller stockpot was going to boil the crystal steep - the idea was a double batch in the large pot to be split between the XPA and IPA and the crystal with simcoe and lemondrop boil as an extra for the XPA.

So... in the past I just used the sous vide stick, but in the past I was just mashing maybe 6 - 7 litres. Apparently it's not a good idea to let the Bunnings paint bag sit on the bottom when using the induction plate. 

Came time to pull the grain I unclipped the bag, removed the sous vide and set for a heavy lift from the pot.

Damned near threw the bag across the room! 

The bag had burned through and if the hole had been larger there might have been grain scattered all across the kitchen! As it was I got time to realise it was WAAAAY too light and didn't heave it over my head.

If I'm not around in a few weeks it might be nylon poisoning but I tasted the wort - after the 45 minutes clean up, grain straining and pot scrubbing (I needed it for the boil) and there were no odd flavours I could detect.

Sparge it? Not on your Nelly - I was done with brewing and it was an effort to keep working my way through. 😄

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2 hours ago, Journeyman said:

Apparently it's not a good idea to let the Bunnings paint bag sit on the bottom when using the induction plate. 

I found that out too.  I was not sure if the bag got ripped by my metal mash paddle when stirring or if the bag got hooked on the temp well I added to the Big W pot.  The other option was just the bag not handling the heat.

I now use a false bottom when doing these partial mashes and I think I might need to turn the heat on from time to time.

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13 hours ago, kmar92 said:

I have wondered how much heat that the paint strainer bags will handle, obviously they do not cope with contact to high heat surfaces.

 

11 hours ago, Shamus O'Sean said:

The other option was just the bag not handling the heat...

...I now use a false bottom when doing these partial mashes

Well, they definitely don't do heat well. Was a perfect melt where it was in contact - interestingly the shape was mirrored with a brown patch on the outside of the pot and a similar shape on the glass of the induction plate. Clearly it trapped heat where elsewhere the heat transferred to the liquid and convected away.

It didn't occur to me the metal would be much hotter than the wort - I mean it's obvious now but I just didn't think of it. Worst part is I've got one of those collapsible metal strainers I could use in there. (and will in future) Might have to truncate the central handle on it though. 😄

@Shamus O'Sean - where did you get the false bottom? 

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7 hours ago, Journeyman said:

 

Well, they definitely don't do heat well. Was a perfect melt where it was in contact - interestingly the shape was mirrored with a brown patch on the outside of the pot and a similar shape on the glass of the induction plate. Clearly it trapped heat where elsewhere the heat transferred to the liquid and convected away.

It didn't occur to me the metal would be much hotter than the wort - I mean it's obvious now but I just didn't think of it. Worst part is I've got one of those collapsible metal strainers I could use in there. (and will in future) Might have to truncate the central handle on it though. 😄

@Shamus O'Sean - where did you get the false bottom? 

From the local Adult Shop maybe? They go well with the arseless chaps (apparently).

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12 hours ago, Journeyman said:

It didn't occur to me the metal would be much hotter than the wort - I mean it's obvious now but I just didn't think of it. Worst part is I've got one of those collapsible metal strainers I could use in there. (and will in future) Might have to truncate the central handle on it though

@Journeyman I used to use one of these stainless steel camping trivets back when I was doing the bag thing.  They are 250 mm diameter and 20 mm high, they will fit both the 15 L and 20 L Big-W pots easily.  You should be able to pick one up from the local camping store, just make sure it is a SS one and not plated.  I think I paid about $13 or $18 not sure now.

Trivet SS 250 mm diameter.PNG

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On 10/8/2021 at 9:06 PM, iBooz2 said:

@Journeyman I used to use one of these stainless steel camping trivets back when I was doing the bag thing.  They are 250 mm diameter and 20 mm high, they will fit both the 15 L and 20 L Big-W pots easily.  You should be able to pick one up from the local camping store, just make sure it is a SS one and not plated.  I think I paid about $13 or $18 not sure now.

I found this on ebay - $11.26, 26 cm - legs are removable as well. Couldn't find out what level of SS it is but Aussie seller so should be able to get money back if it starts corroding.
Image 1 - Trivet Steamer Rack Plate Round Stainless Steel Steamer Tray Removable Legs 26cm

But I have another kinda-fail - put 2 brews in the FV last Thursday and discovered I should'a checked the temp controller, not just assumed it was at the right temp. 

Nott @ 21° seems to have produced nice banana smells. No biggie because it should clean up but I need to double check the temp next time.

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5 hours ago, Journeyman said:

But I have another kinda-fail - put 2 brews in the FV last Thursday and discovered I should'a checked the temp controller, not just assumed it was at the right temp. 

Nott @ 21° seems to have produced nice banana smells. No biggie because it should clean up but I need to double check the temp next time.

Yeah, I need to be especially careful with one of my temp controllers because I use it to turn off my induction hot plate when my sparge water gets to 75°C.  That temperature would not be good for a fermenting brew.

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Years ago I stored 30 bottles of stout on a loft in my colour bond garage for 12 months of aging.

 

Forgoten about and summer come along and on a 40c day a couple exploded. Smart me thought I would cool them down with a light spray of water with a hose. Guess what, bottles cooled but not the beer increasing the pressure. I lost about half the brew and left with a huge clean up. Lol

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Memo to Muzzy:

STOP BEING A SCAB!

When bottling I prime bottles after filling them with beer. Sometimes, especially when I haven't cold crashed, the beer foams up rather rapidly and creates a gusher. So I need to get the carb drops in and lid on very swiftly and this usually works without issue. However today after using all carb drops from one bag I noticed all the crumbs of sugar in the bottom of the bag and thought, "Hey! That's easily another carb drop worth of sugar there."

So I dropped a sugar cube in the bottle and then sprinkled in the crumbs. This process wasn't as efficient as doing two drops/cubes and my idea of saving about 2c has now cost me about a fifth of a bottle of beer plus the clean up. IDIOT!🤦‍♂️

IMG_20211018_094055.jpg

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3 minutes ago, MUZZY said:

Memo to Muzzy:

STOP BEING A SCAB!

When bottling I prime bottles after filling them with beer. Sometimes, especially when I haven't cold crashed, the beer foams up rather rapidly and creates a gusher. So I need to get the carb drops in and lid on very swiftly and this usually works without issue. However today after using all carb drops from one bag I noticed all the crumbs of sugar in the bottom of the bag and thought, "Hey! That's easily another carb drop worth of sugar there."

So I dropped a sugar cube in the bottle and then sprinkled in the crumbs. This process wasn't as efficient as doing two drops/cubes and my idea of saving about 2c has now cost me about a fifth of a bottle of beer plus the clean up. IDIOT!🤦‍♂️

That's interesting Muzzy, I always put my sugar in first & I have never had any foaming issues. 

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4 minutes ago, Classic Brewing Co said:

That's interesting Muzzy, I always put my sugar in first & I have never had any foaming issues. 

Yes, when putting sugar first you can control the foaming as you fill. Too much foam? Stop filling. Let foam settle. Continue filling. I have a preference to post-prime so the bottles are filled to the maximum level before drops are in. This way I get maximum maximum level. 🙂 Aside from the aforementioned stuff up it's also a bit quicker than waiting for foam to settle on pre-primed bottles. I've also noticed brews bottled colder (cold crashed) don't foam up as much but I don't often cold crash.

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18 minutes ago, MUZZY said:

Yes, when putting sugar first you can control the foaming as you fill. Too much foam? Stop filling. Let foam settle. Continue filling. I have a preference to post-prime so the bottles are filled to the maximum level before drops are in. This way I get maximum maximum level. 🙂 Aside from the aforementioned stuff up it's also a bit quicker than waiting for foam to settle on pre-primed bottles. I've also noticed brews bottled colder (cold crashed) don't foam up as much but I don't often cold crash.

I understand but honestly I just put one scoop ( 1 x tsp 4gms ) from the Brigalow sugar measure in all of my bottles, the smallest I use is 450ml Grolsch & again none of them have ever foamed over before applying the swing top or crown seal.

Maybe sugar cubes start dissolving faster ? I don't cold crash as I noticed when I did I struggled to get the nice head I am used to - with my beers.

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3 hours ago, Classic Brewing Co said:

That's interesting Muzzy, I always put my sugar in first & I have never had any foaming issues. 

I've had It in the past. Only happened if I bottled a bit early.

Just wait an additional couple of days. I always bottle on day 7,8 or 9.

 

I Only bulk prime these days. Easier

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