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What's in Your Fermenter? 2021


Shamus O'Sean

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1 minute ago, Barramullafella said:

Agree there Classic. I have kept a diary of the beers and taste test every week until the 4th week. The sweetest one was the Woolale Plus which is a soft smooth beer with a sweetish malt taste. Not bad beer, but just a fraction sweet for me. The Malteaser is a nice beer full body, tangy, very refreshing with a tad of sweetness. If I get rid of the sweetness my search for a pleasant ale/bitter will be done.

I have said this before & others have commented, I still think the use of hops, matched for the brew, will greatly reduce the sweetness & introduce a bitter yet pleasant citrus bite.

I have just bought a couple of S/S hop balls to enable me to increase the amount hops in each brew as I am growing to like the aroma & fresh taste they add to the beers.

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Yep, I hear ya Classic, and others. The brew I bottled yesterday is the first I have introduced POR too. It is basically a OS Lager + BE3 + POR. I was going to start anudda brew using OS Draught + 1/2 x BE3 + 500gm of Wheat/Malt extract + cascade hops + US-05.

 

Edited by Barramullafella
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3 minutes ago, Barramullafella said:

I was going to start anudda brew using OS Draught + 1/2 x BE3 + 500gm of Wheat/Malt extract + cascade hops + US-05.

That will definitely taste better although I would us all of the BE3 but I recall you are trying to keep the ABV down. I have upped my hop quantity to 25gm in a lot of the Pale Ales , Bitters, Draughts etc & with the LME it takes your beer to the next level.

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Just now, CLASSIC said:

That will definitely taste better although I would us all of the BE3 but I recall you are trying to keep the ABV down. I have upped my hop quantity to 25gm in a lot of the Pale Ales , Bitters, Draughts etc & with the LME it takes your beer to the next level.

Yep, trying to keep the ABV around the 4% mark but also figuring if I added 100% BE3 + the wheat/malt extract it may turn out to malty and sweet like the Woolale Plus.

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1 minute ago, Barramullafella said:

Yep, trying to keep the ABV around the 4% mark but also figuring if I added 100% BE3 + the wheat/malt extract it may turn out to malty and sweet like the Woolale Plus.

Possibly but I have found the us-05 works in different ways & produces a finer beer than the kit yeasts.

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For what it's worth there are a few points here, I know you are an extract brewer but some of this applies. Cheers.

8 Reasons Your Homebrew Tastes Too Sweet!
Homebrew That Tastes Too Sweet Sugar is an essential component of beer. Without fermentable sugar in the wort, there would be no alcohol. Most of the sugar in a beer ferments out, with a little being left behind for body and flavor. But balance is critical, and there are several reasons that a beer might come across as being too sweet. If your homebrew tastes too sweet you may want to take a look at these tips so that you can avoid ending up with home brew beers that finishes too sweet.
 Use more hops. Hops provide bitterness, which helps balance out a beer’s sweetness. Maybe your homebrew recipe just needs a little more hops added early in the boil?
Mash low. When brewing all-grain, starch conversion takes place between about 148° and 160° Fahrenheit. At the higher end of the scale, fewer fermentable sugars are produced than at the low end. If your homebrew tastes to sweet, try mashing in the 148-150˚F range to create a more fermentable wort and ultimately a drier beer.
Use less crystal/caramel malt. Crystal and caramel malts contribute significant sweetness to your homebrew, including unfermentable dextrins that simply won’t convert into alcohol. A reduction in the percentage of crystal malts will help if your homebrew tastes too sweet.
Shop Conical Fermenter Replace pale malt with pilsner. Similar to crystal malts, pale malt has more sweetness than pilsner malt, so when selecting a base malt for all-grain brewing you may want to go with pilsner over pale. Certain styles of beer, such as dry lagers and Belgian ales, may benefit from using pilsner malt as the base malt.
Use simple sugar. Adjunct sugars like corn sugar and cane sugar ferment out almost 100%. Though contrary to what your might expect, using sugar to reach your original gravity will increase the overall attenuation of your beer. If your homebrew tastes too sweet this will help. Exception: lactose sugar is unfermentable and will make your beer more sweet.
Check your fermentation. Residual sweetness may be caused by an incomplete or stuck fermentation. Use your hydrometer to determine whether you have reached your target final gravity. If your gravity ends up too high, try using a yeast starter, yeast nutrient, or a different yeast strain.
Check your yeast strain. Some strains of brewer’s yeast are more attenuative than others, meaning that they ferment a larger percentage of available sugars. If your homebrew tastes too sweet, maybe a different type of yeast is in order. Shop Barley Grains
Reduce your boil time. An extended boil may result in reactions that increase sweetness in your brew. Similarly, an intense boil may cause caramelization or Maillard reactions. Take it down a notch to see if that reduces residual sweetness.
 

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This just went in the FV fridge... It may not be my first brew under 7.0% but I can't recall the last one. Maybe I'm getting old?

Mind you, it's with enzyme so it's still likely to crack the 7%! 😄

image.thumb.png.263ee0386b152c8e28b2f4357c8479a5.png

Edited by Journeyman
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On 7/9/2021 at 9:15 AM, MUZZY said:

@Journeyman Less than 24 hours later we're chunkless. I told you it was nothing to worry about. 🙂

IMG20210709084309.jpg

Hey MUZZ, what temp did you cook this baby at?  Was it only the CCA yeast?   I am surprised you have such a massive foam up in the FV and bugger all in the hydrometer tube.  Does it smell like a banana smoothie?

I use CCA yeast all the time and do not get anywhere near that sort of Krausen maybe 15 - 20 mm and even then its not evenly over the surface, but I always pitch it low sometimes at 12 C and set the FV fridge temp controller to 17 C letting it creep up then leave it like that until BD+3 then step it up 1 C per day until it gets to 22 C. 

Once at 22 C and landed at the FG I leave it there for a couple more days and then start the cold crash routine - step down by 3 - 4 C per day until at 1 or 2 C. 

Interested in your process - cheers

 

Edited by iBooz2
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1 hour ago, iBooz2 said:

Hey MUZZ, what temp did you cook this baby at?  Was it only the CCA yeast?   I am surprised you have such a massive foam up in the FV and bugger all in the hydrometer tube.  Does it smell like a banana smoothie?

I use CCA yeast all the time and do not get anywhere near that sort of Krausen maybe 15 - 20 mm and even then its not evenly over the surface, but I always pitch it low sometimes at 12 C and set the FV fridge temp controller to 17 C letting it creep up then leave it like that until BD+3 then step it up 1 C per day until it gets to 22 C. 

Once at 22 C and landed at the FG I leave it there for a couple more days and then start the cold crash routine - step down by 3 - 4 C per day until at 1 or 2 C. 

Interested in your process - cheers

 

Hi AL.
Yeah CCA yeast that I reactivated in water and some BE3. Yes it had banana smell. I'd never had one foam up like this before.
I pitched at 22C and set ferment at 21C.
It's been fermenting for 7 days now and I don't know what my SG is because my hydrometer broke but it's still quite cloudy so I don't think it's done yet. Which is rather unusual for KnK. I'm not short of beer currently so I'm happy to let it sit for a few more days.
I don't cold crash my brews any more. Just a personal preference. I couldn't find any real benefit in doing it apart from beer not foaming as much when I bottled.

 

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12 hours ago, iBooz2 said:

I always pitch it low sometimes at 12 C and set the FV fridge temp controller to 17 C letting it creep up then leave it like that until BD+3 then step it up 1 C per day until it gets to 22 C. 

Once at 22 C and landed at the FG I leave it there for a couple more days and then start the cold crash routine - step down by 3 - 4 C per day until at 1 or 2 C. 

Sounds like you need an Inkbird ITC 310T-B - It's programmable for 12 operations so you could do all your steps automatically each brew.  😄 

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4 hours ago, Journeyman said:

Sounds like you need an Inkbird ITC 310T-B - It's programmable for 12 operations so you could do all your steps automatically each brew.  😄 

Yep a good idea thanks JM but I already have 4 of those STC mark II controllers on various FV fridges / Keezer.   Plus I like to mother my FV batches a little bit each day i.e. do the rounds of the baby ward and check all is ok and tucked in bed.  I also have one inky on my 70 L nanobrewery but have not even bothered to hook it up the my Wi-Fi and just use it manually. 

All these things to buy but I must just focus on a 58 L kegerator for the next purchase then I can truly get stuck into double 50 L batches as this will cut my brew days in half.

Edited by iBooz2
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Just stuck another IPA in the FV fridge. Fairly basic with Brew A IPA, 2 x Brew A can yeasts, (from previous cans) LDME and a tea of mosaic and citra.

Looking forward to seeing how it goes. 

And at least I will have kegs ready to run before I run out the 2 in the keg fridge. 😄

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On 7/8/2021 at 11:20 AM, Coopers DIY Beer Team said:

Ever since the debut of the Cooper And Sons "Brewer's Own Ale" pack in October 1977, right through to the current Coopers DIY BEER Brew Kit

And its a scary reminder that I have been with you on and off nearly all of that time since 1977.  OMG! My home brewing life is flashing before my eyes.

 

On 7/8/2021 at 11:20 AM, Coopers DIY Beer Team said:

Big W has been selling the DIY BEER Brew Box https://www.bigw.com.au/product/coopers-diy-beer-brew-box/p/822127/ for over a year now, but we don't sell it through the Online Store.

Good move Coopers and I was unaware of this product line.  If I was starting home brewing over then this would be the way to go, entry level wise.  A build your own brew kit sort of.  I like it and a step in the right direction IMO.

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Just got last months ROTM Australian IPA into the brew fridge. I particularly liked Coopers version of this in the can so see I will see how it comes out. Tweaked the recipe slightly by beefing up the hops a little and I have gone with Verdant IPA yeast and it is in my SS kegmenter and will be pressure fermented. I will probably do a bigger dry hop also.

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Just put this down this morning:

CCAM Pale Ale

1.7kg Coopers APA
1.5kg light LME
650g Vienna 17%
300g Superior Ale malt 7.8%
200g Crystal 15L 5.2%
125g Carapils 3.3%
10g Cents x 10 minutes
40g Cents @ FO for 20 minute hop stand 
15g Citra  DH x 48 hours 
10g Amarillo DH
10g Mosaic DH
10mL Clarity ferm
23L
14g Coopers ale/lager yeast dry pitched
 
OG 1.054; FG 1.010; ABV 5.43%; EBC 10.
Edited by ChristinaS1
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18 hours ago, kmar92 said:

Just got last months ROTM Australian IPA into the brew fridge. I particularly liked Coopers version of this in the can so see I will see how it comes out. Tweaked the recipe slightly by beefing up the hops a little and I have gone with Verdant IPA yeast and it is in my SS kegmenter and will be pressure fermented. I will probably do a bigger dry hop also.

I am already drinking mine, it is an awesome beer, I found as per recipe the hops ( Vic Secret & Eclipse, I think ) gave it a huge aroma, flavour & I will be making it again. I used the English Ale Yeast so should be interesting to see how yours turns out. Cheers.

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My first AG version of a Coopers Sparkling Ale recipe midway through its cold crash routine.  If it tastes as good as it looks and smells in the test tube I will be a happy camper.  Refer to the yeast thread re my fermentation profile for this baby.  It used CCA yeast harvested from 2 tallies and six stubbies of Coopers Sparkling Ale retail bottles made up in a 1 L starter.

This brew will be kegged on Wednesday (if I can wait that long).  😛

Coopers Sparkling Ale AG version Cold Crashing - resized.jpg

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On 7/16/2021 at 8:20 PM, kmar92 said:

Just got last months ROTM Australian IPA into the brew fridge. I particularly liked Coopers version of this in the can so see I will see how it comes out. Tweaked the recipe slightly by beefing up the hops a little and I have gone with Verdant IPA yeast and it is in my SS kegmenter and will be pressure fermented. I will probably do a bigger dry hop also.

Similar, similar, kmar.  I put down the Coopers Australian IPA yesterday, Saturday 17 July.  Like you I am using the Verdant IPA yeast.  

Bit of a dog of a brew day.  Using my new Keg King Gen 2 Snub Nose with Gen 3 mods (they have a deal on the Gen 2 Snub Nose that finishes today).  As usual, adapting to new equipment was a challenge.  Small opening in FV.  The PET material cannot take hot additions.  Family trying to cook dinner in the same kitchen as I was brewing in.

Seemed to end up okay.  24 litres of wort at SG 1.057 into fermenter.  Now we wait.

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9 hours ago, Shamus O'Sean said:

Family trying to cook dinner in the same kitchen as I was brewing in.

You lucky, lucky bastard SOS.  In my household I have cook the dinners for my family at the same time as doing the brewing.

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2 hours ago, iBooz2 said:

You lucky, lucky bastard SOS.  In my household I have cook the dinners for my family at the same time as doing the brewing.

I do consider myself lucky in the cooked dinners space.  I was more annoyed at myself that I was still doing the beer when they wanted to start cooking.  I normally make sure we do not overlap.

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3 hours ago, iBooz2 said:

You lucky, lucky bastard SOS.  In my household I have cook the dinners for my family at the same time as doing the brewing.

What about poor old me ?  I too have to play multiple roles;

  • Meal Planner & Chef
  • Entertainment host
  • Wine Sommelier & Bar duties
  • Brewer
  • General S... Kicker & clean up/Dishes etc    

But then I am not complaining - I am single. 🥳

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