Pale Man Posted September 2, 2021 Share Posted September 2, 2021 8 minutes ago, ozdevil said: I dont always PBW after a brew just give a good solid wipe over and give good rinse about every 5 uses i run pbw through it at around 55 -60 degrees c and i will let it sit for an hour then will get rid of that then refill with frsh water and get that to 60-65 degrees to help get the slippery film from te pbw off and all good to go for next time if you get rid of the overflow pipe and replaced it with a bolt just leave it there no point unscrewing it unless planning on using overflow pipe i mentioned earlier if you took the over flow pipe out you could just put a bolt where the overflow pipe was Ah that bolt. Yeah you wouldnt be removing that. I'm already ordering a bottom for the malt pipe without the overflow tube. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozdevil Posted September 2, 2021 Share Posted September 2, 2021 19 minutes ago, Pale Man said: Ah that bolt. Yeah you wouldnt be removing that. I'm already ordering a bottom for the malt pipe without the overflow tube. thats what i did and so much better as ya not knocking the overflow pipe ya not having to try to get the overflow pipe through the top screen 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stickers Posted September 3, 2021 Share Posted September 3, 2021 i'm going to try a 1kg partial of 700g quick oats along with the 200g of maris otter i have left and 100g of something else from the remnant bags in a pale ale/be3 kit and kilo as the LHBS is still out of my range. plenty of hops still though Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ben 10 Posted September 3, 2021 Share Posted September 3, 2021 This is almost ready to keg, Lallemand IPA something yeast, East Coast ? Recipe: IPA Brewer: Grumpy Style: American IPA TYPE: All Grain Recipe Specifications -------------------------- Estimated OG: 1.066 SG Estimated Color: 9.6 EBC Estimated IBU: 107.7 IBUs Ingredients: ------------ Amt Name Type # %/IBU Volume 5.00 kg Pale Malt, Ale (Barrett Burston) (5.9 EBC) Grain 1 84.7 % 3.26 L 0.50 kg Wheat Malt (Barrett Burston) (3.0 EBC) Grain 2 8.5 % 0.33 L 0.40 kg Carapils (Briess) (3.0 EBC) Grain 3 6.8 % 0.26 L 30.00 g Simcoe [13.20 %] - First Wort 60.0 min Hop 4 43.1 IBUs - 30.00 g Mosaic (HBC 369) [14.20 %] - Steep/Whirlpool 60 Hop 5 21.1 IBUs - 25.00 g Centennial [10.20 %] - Steep/Whirlpool 60.0 min Hop 6 12.6 IBUs - 25.00 g Cryo - Citra [25.00 %] - Steep/Whirlpool 60.0 m Hop 7 30.9 IBUs - ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ben 10 Posted September 3, 2021 Share Posted September 3, 2021 @Coopers DIY Beer Team << that rubbish formatting is the new site design Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ben 10 Posted September 3, 2021 Share Posted September 3, 2021 (edited) Also made this BeerSmith 2 Recipe Printout - http://www.beersmith.com Recipe: Oz Lager Brewer: Grumpy Asst Brewer: Style: Australian Premium Lager TYPE: All Grain Taste: (30.0) Recipe Specifications -------------------------- Boil Size: 28.50 L Post Boil Volume: 25.19 L Batch Size (fermenter): 21.00 L Bottling Volume: 19.60 L Estimated OG: 1.050 SG Estimated Color: 7.5 EBC Estimated IBU: 20.4 IBUs Brewhouse Efficiency: 75.00 % Est Mash Efficiency: 86.4 % Boil Time: 60 Minutes Ingredients: ------------ Amt Name Type # %/IBU Volume 3.00 kg Pale Malt, Ale (Barrett Burston) (5.9 EBC) Grain 1 66.7 % 1.96 L 1.00 kg Wheat Malt (Barrett Burston) (3.0 EBC) Grain 2 22.2 % 0.65 L 0.50 kg Carapils (Briess) (3.0 EBC) Grain 3 11.1 % 0.33 L 10.00 g Pride of Ringwood [9.10 %] - First Wort 60.0 min Hop 4 11.2 IBUs - 30.00 g Pride of Ringwood [9.10 %] - Steep/Whirlpool 20 Hop 5 9.2 IBUs - Mash Schedule: BIAB, Light Body KEGS Total Grain Weight: 4.50 kg ---------------------------- Name Description Step Temperat Step Time Saccharification Add 31.25 L of water at 67.8 C 64.4 C 90 min Sparge: If steeping, remove grains, and prepare to boil wort Notes: ------ Created with BeerSmith - http://www.beersmith.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Edited September 3, 2021 by disgruntled 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tone boy Posted September 3, 2021 Share Posted September 3, 2021 2 hours ago, disgruntled said: Also made this BeerSmith 2 Recipe Printout - http://www.beersmith.com Recipe: Oz Lager Brewer: Grumpy Asst Brewer: Style: Australian Premium Lager TYPE: All Grain Taste: (30.0) Recipe Specifications -------------------------- Boil Size: 28.50 L Post Boil Volume: 25.19 L Batch Size (fermenter): 21.00 L Bottling Volume: 19.60 L Estimated OG: 1.050 SG Estimated Color: 7.5 EBC Estimated IBU: 20.4 IBUs Brewhouse Efficiency: 75.00 % Est Mash Efficiency: 86.4 % Boil Time: 60 Minutes Ingredients: ------------ Amt Name Type # %/IBU Volume 3.00 kg Pale Malt, Ale (Barrett Burston) (5.9 EBC) Grain 1 66.7 % 1.96 L 1.00 kg Wheat Malt (Barrett Burston) (3.0 EBC) Grain 2 22.2 % 0.65 L 0.50 kg Carapils (Briess) (3.0 EBC) Grain 3 11.1 % 0.33 L 10.00 g Pride of Ringwood [9.10 %] - First Wort 60.0 min Hop 4 11.2 IBUs - 30.00 g Pride of Ringwood [9.10 %] - Steep/Whirlpool 20 Hop 5 9.2 IBUs - Mash Schedule: BIAB, Light Body KEGS Total Grain Weight: 4.50 kg ---------------------------- Name Description Step Temperat Step Time Saccharification Add 31.25 L of water at 67.8 C 64.4 C 90 min Sparge: If steeping, remove grains, and prepare to boil wort Notes: ------ Created with BeerSmith - http://www.beersmith.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Hey Disgruntled. Have you changed recently ?? I have a similar brew in the fv atm. I had the bulk of PoR at the start and only 5 g at the end. You’ve gone the opposite way around. Is PoR good for aroma? What yeast? Hope it’s a ripper for you cheers TB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ben 10 Posted September 3, 2021 Share Posted September 3, 2021 6 hours ago, Tone boy said: Is PoR good for aroma? What yeast? Its good for PoR flavour... M54 yeast 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shamus O'Sean Posted September 4, 2021 Share Posted September 4, 2021 15 hours ago, disgruntled said: Estimated IBU: 107.7 IBUs That's a massive hit of IBU's. It will be interesting to see your tasting notes. Any dry hops planned with that brew? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky Micky Posted September 4, 2021 Share Posted September 4, 2021 Probably a massively silly or stupid question but is it okay to use hot water from the tap to use in the wort? My hot water service is gas heated and not that old and gets used frequently so there's a good turn over of water through the unit itself. No floaties or debris are evident in the water either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iBooz2 Posted September 4, 2021 Share Posted September 4, 2021 (edited) 57 minutes ago, Mickep said: Probably a massively silly or stupid question but is it okay to use hot water from the tap to use in the wort? My hot water service is gas heated and not that old and gets used frequently so there's a good turn over of water through the unit itself. No floaties or debris are evident in the water either. Does your HWS have a tempering valve on it Mick? Bacteria grow in hot water that's if its not hot enough so I would measure the temp of the water to get an idea if its in safe zone or not. Note I never use hot water from my HWS and it is very new (no tempering valve) and all new copper pipes run not that long ago. I prefer to boil the kettle full of chlorine free filtered water to get the hot water I need on brew day when I was doing K & K and still sometimes when doing AG. Edited September 4, 2021 by iBooz2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky Micky Posted September 4, 2021 Share Posted September 4, 2021 3 minutes ago, iBooz2 said: 58 minutes ago, Mickep said: Probably a massively silly or stupid question but is it okay to use hot water from the tap to use in the wort? My hot water service is gas heated and not that old and gets used frequently so there's a good turn over of water through the unit itself. No floaties or debris are evident in the water either. Does your HWS have a tempering valve on it Mick? Bacteria grow in hot water that if its not hot enough so I would measure the temp of the water to get an idea if in safe zone or not. Note I never use hot water from my HWS and it is very new (no tempering valve) and all new copper pipes run not that long ago. I prefer to boil the kettle full of chlorine free filtered water to get the hot water I need on brew day when I was doing K & K and still sometimes when doing AG. Cheers Al, I think you've answered everything I need to know. The word bacteria leaps off the page at me. Cheers mate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky Micky Posted September 4, 2021 Share Posted September 4, 2021 Anyone tried the Coopers Eclipse Aussie Pale Ale recipe? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pezzza Posted September 4, 2021 Share Posted September 4, 2021 (edited) 33 minutes ago, iBooz2 said: Bacteria grow in hot water that's if its not hot enough Hot Chlorinated Potable Water with lots of turnover? mmm... doubt it @iBooz2 Boozer not a particularly beneficial growth medium for microorganisms... Maybe if it was unfiltered water that came out of the farm dam... but not a chlorinated town water supply and a relatively new hot water system in good nick that has plenty through-put surely Cobber? Edited September 4, 2021 by Graubart 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Classic Brewing Co Posted September 4, 2021 Share Posted September 4, 2021 17 minutes ago, Graubart said: Hot Chlorinated Potable Water with lots of turnover? mmm... doubt it @iBooz2 Boozer not a particularly beneficial growth medium for microorganisms... Maybe if it was unfiltered water that came out of the farm dam... but not a chlorinated town water supply and a relatively new hot water system in good nick that has plenty through-put surely Cobber? For what it's worth the only hot water I use in brewing is straight out of the Puratap into the kettle & boiled. I have never had a problem. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ben 10 Posted September 4, 2021 Share Posted September 4, 2021 8 hours ago, Shamus O'Sean said: That's a massive hit of IBU's. It will be interesting to see your tasting notes. Any dry hops planned with that brew? Nah, I don't cold crash so it's annoying and not really beneficial. Kegged, smell was AMAZING 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ben 10 Posted September 4, 2021 Share Posted September 4, 2021 21 hours ago, Tone boy said: Hey Disgruntled. Have you changed recently ?? Not really, I have been disgruntled for a very long time 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tone boy Posted September 4, 2021 Share Posted September 4, 2021 (edited) 40 minutes ago, disgruntled said: Not really, I have been disgruntled for a very long time Ben10? Blob? Edited September 4, 2021 by Tone boy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ben 10 Posted September 4, 2021 Share Posted September 4, 2021 19 minutes ago, Tone boy said: Ben10? Blob? 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shamus O'Sean Posted September 4, 2021 Share Posted September 4, 2021 Samuel Adams Boston Lager clone Brew day not without issues. I noticed my grain crush seemed a bit fine. Plenty of husks so I did not worry about it too much. Last Mash step was meant to be 28 minutes. Ended up going for about 90 minutes, between stirring the mash a few times and trying to get the grain bed to filter the wort. Very hazy milky wort Got it to start to clear up by Mash-Out Got wort down to about 18°C Turned out I got about 24 or so litres of wort at 1.055, which was a bit high. Decided to chuck in some extra water (2 litres) into the fermenter. Ended up with 26.8 litres of wort at 1.050. Also used a coffee plunger for the first time to squeeze out liquid from the hop sock (paint strainer bag). Very easy. 10 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iBooz2 Posted September 4, 2021 Share Posted September 4, 2021 10 minutes ago, Shamus O'Sean said: Also used a coffee plunger for the first time to squeeze out liquid from the hop sock (paint strainer bag). Very easy. Yea! Way to go SOS 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tone boy Posted September 5, 2021 Share Posted September 5, 2021 16 hours ago, Shamus O'Sean said: Also used a coffee plunger for the first time I did this for the first time too. Put in a hop tea of 10g of PoR into the fv at day 5. Usually I would dry hop but was swept up in the moment. 1 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iBooz2 Posted September 6, 2021 Share Posted September 6, 2021 (edited) On 9/4/2021 at 2:41 PM, Graubart said: Hot Chlorinated Potable Water with lots of turnover? mmm... doubt it @iBooz2 Boozer not a particularly beneficial growth medium for microorganisms... Maybe if it was unfiltered water that came out of the farm dam... but not a chlorinated town water supply and a relatively new hot water system in good nick that has plenty through-put surely Cobber? It’s up to the individual @Graubart most HWS units are set to hold their water at just above 60 C to stop bacteria build up in their tanks but if they are fitted with a tempering valve then the water fed into the pipes is only about 40 – 50 C and that is not enough to kill off bugs in those pipes. Hence my question re the tempering valve. Yes, the high throughput would help but the Chlorine would not IMO as that would dissipate in the primary heating of the HWS. Being potable water on the input does not mean it’s still potable on the output as there are contaminates generated by the standard HWS. Particularly those with ceramic or glass fibre coated iron tanks as they must have a sacrificial anode’s which is made of magnesium alloy and breaks down into an oxide which is sometimes visible as very fine white particles in the hot water and or course hydrogen gas. Most gas heated HWS units of late use SS holding tanks so do not require a sacrificial anode so that is a plus and I presumed this in Mick’s HWS, that’s why I was asking him about a tempering valve and the output water temperatures. The tempering valve if fitted would probably mean the hot water in Mick’s pipes would never get hot enough to kill any bacteria that may have since grown and live in his pipes. My own system is a gas fired mains pressure SS tanked HWS with all new copper pipes throughout the house. My HWS temp is set a lot higher than standard and has no tempering valve as this HWS was fitted just before these became mandatory building code. My hot water temperature at the tap in the kitchen comes out at 71 C so that I can be sure no bugs on my dishes when I wash them. I still will not use my HWS hot water in a K & K brew. Now all that being said, (sorry about long post) I do use my rainwater for my AG brews only as that gets boiled anyway, the rainwater must be full of all sorts of bugs but I do this via a filtering system then a final 1 micron filter and like I said it’s going to get boiled in the end. Note: I do not use rainwater for K & K brews and only use filtered potable mains water in those batches. You could use your own HWS hot water and it would be perfectly fine. Its just that I prefer to boil the kettle for the small amounts needed for K & K. Edited September 6, 2021 by iBooz2 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pezzza Posted September 6, 2021 Share Posted September 6, 2021 (edited) Luvyerwork Boozer @iBooz2 mate... sensational detailed reply. Guess as more of a scientist and potable water person I would like to think that your incoming feed should not be full of inoculum...n hence if no incoming inoculum thence not really a problem of water temp. If the local WTP is uptershit that may be a dangerous assumption. Point of higher temps being better in terms of reduction of any microbe loading - spot on - thank you Louis Pasteur. However, potable chlorinated water should not have microbial load... so although all you note re water temp is all good - if you have nil incoming inoculum - there should not be anything living in there to then contaminate downstream water use in your system. And I agree w KnK that boiling small vols for that - safety first - good precaution.... but also would suggest all brewers should wear plastic good grade gloves and clean clothes etc as there is a lot of inoculum coming off our skin all the time. As far as your and my rainwater... yes mate it has all sorts of festive things living in it ; ) and we filter but you canna keep everything out. But our brews are boiled for an hour plus so WGAF Luvyerwork. Good discussion Edited September 6, 2021 by Graubart 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greenyinthewestofsydney Posted September 6, 2021 Share Posted September 6, 2021 Got rid of some old lemondrop hops in this batch. Simple asian lager grist some bittering hops and a whack of lemondrop at the end. Cubed this overnight and stuck it in the fridge this morning with another asian lager that's been cold crashing. Kegged off the lager this evening while aerating the cube and then the cube on top of the yeast cake. Inkbird says its at 7c but should come up to 10c pretty quick. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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