ben 10 Posted April 1, 2021 Share Posted April 1, 2021 Quote Recipe: Hazy Shade of Pale Brewer: Grumpy Style: American IPA TYPE: All Grain Recipe Specifications -------------------------- Batch Size (fermenter): 21.00 L Estimated OG: 1.073 SG Estimated Color: 14.9 EBC Estimated IBU: 57.3 IBUs Ingredients: ------------ Amt Name Type # %/IBU Volume 2.00 kg Munich I (Weyermann) (14.0 EBC) Grain 1 29.6 % 1.30 L 2.00 kg Pale Malt (Barrett Burston) (3.9 EBC) Grain 2 29.6 % 1.30 L 1.00 kg Rye Malt (Weyermann) (5.9 EBC) Grain 3 14.8 % 0.65 L 1.00 kg Wheat Malt (Barrett Burston) (3.0 EBC) Grain 4 14.8 % 0.65 L 0.75 kg Oats, Flaked (2.0 EBC) Grain 5 11.1 % 0.49 L 0.01 kg Gladfield Roast Barley (1450.0 EBC) Grain 6 0.1 % 0.01 L 50.00 g Cascade [6.40 %] - Steep/Whirlpool 20.0 min Hop 7 9.1 IBUs - 50.00 g Galaxy [15.70 %] - Steep/Whirlpool 20.0 min Hop 8 22.3 IBUs - 50.00 g Nelson Sauvin [10.70 %] - Steep/Whirlpool 20.0 Hop 9 15.2 IBUs - 25.00 g Cascade [6.40 %] - Steep/Whirlpool 20.0 min Hop 10 2.1 IBUs - 25.00 g Galaxy [15.70 %] - Steep/Whirlpool 20.0 min Hop 11 5.1 IBUs - 25.00 g Nelson Sauvin [10.70 %] - Steep/Whirlpool 20.0 Hop 12 3.5 IBUs - Saison Yeast ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- $29.... not bad. Unfortunately the Catharina Sour became infected, fv poured on the lawn and binned. @CLASSIC - you do not need a heat belt plugged in. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Classic Brewing Co Posted April 1, 2021 Share Posted April 1, 2021 4 hours ago, Graubart said: I got the STC-1000 too @CLASSIC Phil - but it is irrelevant what brand machine pretty much as long as it is a temp controller with outputs to heating and cooling... same as per the ubiquitous Inkbird controllers... Not sure if I have got the picture properly - but where ambient/room temp is warm - and you want brew cooler - your temp controller can be hooked just into the fridge - from the cooling port on the controller. If the ambient/room temp is cold - and you want brew warmer - your temp controller can be just hooked into the heat belt/pad etc. Sometimes the brew warming or cooling can have a lag period between it and the temp change being detected off the brew... so you can just set the offset the temp a bit say if heating to 18 deg just do it to 17 and observe cos it might go to 18 before being detected and shoot past the temp you want... Obviously you can run both heat belt and fridge - but I find that due to the temp probe/beer volume temp change lag - you can see the fridge and heat pad working against each other due to the probe having a lag time to detect the brew temp... which is a major waste of energy... (OR MAYBE I JUST NEED TO USE MORE TAPE!?! Hahaha... I probs should be a bit more conscientious in insulating the probe to the FV... but I guess that over a few hours the whole brewfridge space air and brew will come to equilibrium anyway - that's my excuse and I am sticking to it ) e.g. It is not cold enough to run at 14 yet for me - so I just set the fridge to 14 with only cooling plugged in... as the room temp is probs like 17... I hope that helps - and apologies if I have gone off on a useless tangent up a dry gully somewhere... @Graubart I have had the Temp Controller for a few years & have used it many times with the heat belt & everything has always worked well, Heat light goes on when it needs to as well as the Cool light. I haven't been brewing in the Fridge for the last few brews as my office is pretty much a constant temperature of around 20-22 degrees. I have had the fermenters side by side & so far all is well. As the cooler weather is approaching the ambient room temp will drop but unless it gets super cold I would take steps to insulate the FV's. I have 2 x 30l & 2 x 15 l FV's & my brew fridge will only take one of them at a time. My actual query was; I was wondering if I could tape the probe to the FV & plug in the temp controller in the room without placing anything in the fridge ( again without the heat belt ) I would have thought if you did this & say set your target temp at say 22 degrees it should stay constant until you change it. Maybe I am wrong as I have never heard of anyone doing this. I was aware that you do not need to use a heat belt. Cheers All. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hairy Posted April 1, 2021 Author Share Posted April 1, 2021 Brew day tomorrow. English Bitter with Maris Otter, Special B and Red Back malt. 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MitchBastard Posted April 1, 2021 Share Posted April 1, 2021 33 minutes ago, Hairy said: Brew day tomorrow. English Bitter with Maris Otter, Special B and Red Back malt. Had one on the list for ages....better get it done for the cooler months 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hairy Posted April 1, 2021 Author Share Posted April 1, 2021 1 minute ago, MitchBastard said: Had one on the list for ages....better get it done for the cooler months Plenty of time. Drink them fresh. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maurice79 Posted April 1, 2021 Share Posted April 1, 2021 Tomorrow I'm brewing the last of my V21 Harvest beers using our cascade dried hop flowers from this years harvest. 7 Seas Pale Ale 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChristinaS1 Posted April 1, 2021 Share Posted April 1, 2021 19 hours ago, Green Blob said: Unfortunately the Catharina Sour became infected, fv poured on the lawn and binned. Sorry to hear about that Green Blob. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tone boy Posted April 2, 2021 Share Posted April 2, 2021 15 hours ago, Hairy said: Brew day tomorrow. English Bitter with Maris Otter, Special B and Red Back malt. Sounds goooooood Hairy. Any chance of the recipe? im looking at doing an ESB partial mash using the Coopers APA kit with (maybe?) Fuggles and EKG late. Never made one before though so flying blind a bit... I’ve heard some people put golden syrup in?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hairy Posted April 2, 2021 Author Share Posted April 2, 2021 7 minutes ago, Tone boy said: Sounds goooooood Hairy. Any chance of the recipe? im looking at doing an ESB partial mash using the Coopers APA kit with (maybe?) Fuggles and EKG late. Never made one before though so flying blind a bit... I’ve heard some people put golden syrup in?? Here’s the recipe. It was just using up grain and hops that I had on hand so it isn’t a ‘normal’ ESB recipe. It should still be nice though. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Worthog Posted April 2, 2021 Share Posted April 2, 2021 Labels I have designed for my 3 Pale Ales. Since I have been AG I have now been able to settle on the recipes of my 3 favourite brews; 9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Worthog Posted April 2, 2021 Share Posted April 2, 2021 Cheers! 9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Classic Brewing Co Posted April 2, 2021 Share Posted April 2, 2021 2 hours ago, Worthog said: Labels I have designed for my 3 Pale Ales. Since I have been AG I have now been able to settle on the recipes of my 3 favourite brews; That's good @Worthog I have done similar over the years, great if you are taking some to a BBQ or giving presents etc. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malter White Posted April 2, 2021 Share Posted April 2, 2021 On 3/31/2021 at 12:19 PM, MUZZY said: The two brews have been fermenting for 6 days. CCA yeast version SG 1.006 Kit yeast version SG 1.004 The kit yeast version started an active ferment much sooner than the other, even though the CCA version was made a few hours earlier. The kit yeast version was on the lower shelf of the fridge and that is usually a little warmer than the top shelf. There is a definite difference in taste even at this early stage. The CCA version is a bit fruitier and the sample poured much more foamier in the tube. While it's still early days I think there is a benefit in using CCA yeast. Well, for my taste buds anyway. After 8 days of fermentation I dropped the temperature overnight to 9C. Not so much to cold crash but to reduce foaming while bottling. The kit yeast version = no problems. The CCA yeast version was reacting almost immediately to the priming sugar. So much so they started volcanoing (I don't think that's a real word). Three bottles (pictured) had spill over because I couldn't get the lids on fast enough. 1 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamiek86 Posted April 2, 2021 Share Posted April 2, 2021 @MUZZY that's strange hope no bottle bombs coming up Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozdevil Posted April 2, 2021 Share Posted April 2, 2021 8 minutes ago, MUZZY said: After 8 days of fermentation I dropped the temperature overnight to 9C. Not so much to cold crash but to reduce foaming while bottling. The kit yeast version = no problems. The CCA yeast version was reacting almost immediately to the priming sugar. So much so they started volcanoing (I don't think that's a real word). Three bottles (pictured) had spill over because I couldn't get the lids on fast enough. What was the priming sugar you used i'm just wondering becuase you put cold wort on to the priming sugar , that the couldness interected with the sugar to cause the foaming. when i bottle from keg i like my bottles to be chilled so it makes it easier for the co2 to be asorb during the pour and to create less foaming but i wouldnt see a real need to do that when bottling from fermenter hey least it is only 3 bottles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malter White Posted April 2, 2021 Share Posted April 2, 2021 2 minutes ago, jamiek86 said: @MUZZY that's strange hope no bottle bombs coming up Fortunately I only use PET bottles so they don't explode. However they can still break their seal and go soft and flat beer is produced. It's amazing how firm the bottles are already only minutes after bottling. I have had this happen before with a couple of brews. I don't remember if they had CCA yeast or not but I've made a note this time in case it's a trait of this yeast. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malter White Posted April 2, 2021 Share Posted April 2, 2021 Just now, ozdevil said: What was the priming sugar you used i'm just wondering becuase you put cold wort on to the priming sugar , that the couldness interected with the sugar to cause the foaming. when i bottle from keg i like my bottles to be chilled so it makes it easier for the co2 to be asorb during the pour and to create less foaming but i wouldnt see a real need to do that when bottling from fermenter hey least it is only 3 bottles I used the now world famous, patented Muzzy method (hahaha) of 1 CSR sugar cube and 1 Coopers carb drop. I add the priming sugar after I've filled bottles with beer. There's two reasons for this: 1. It eliminates foaming while filling. Having to stop and letting the foam settle before completing the fill. 2. It maximises the level of beer, thus minimising the amount of O2 in the bottle. I did two batches, one with kit yeast, one with CCA yeast, both at the same temperature (or near enough to). Only the CCA batch frothed up madly. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hairy Posted April 2, 2021 Author Share Posted April 2, 2021 It’s probably the CO2 still in the beer from fermentation. Adding the sugar creates points of nucleation. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malter White Posted April 2, 2021 Share Posted April 2, 2021 28 minutes ago, Hairy said: It’s probably the CO2 still in the beer from fermentation. Adding the sugar creates points of nucleation. You're not just a pretty face, Hairy. Oddly it was only the CCA yeast brew affected. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maurice79 Posted April 2, 2021 Share Posted April 2, 2021 Late start to the brew day today. All done now and cooling down to dump in fermenter before bed tonight. Cleaning is done too. I wonder if the whole street could smell, as it was a wonderful aroma with over 275g of hops. 11 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maurice79 Posted April 2, 2021 Share Posted April 2, 2021 17 minutes ago, MUZZY said: You're not just a pretty face, Hairy. Oddly it was only the CCA yeast brew affected. As long as the beer has reached FG there should be no bottle bombs. Yeasts behave differently and can foam up more that others, per Hairy's advice. I don't keg and if not bulk priming, I only use cane sugar due to the above foaming issues. I've noticed no difference between cane sugar and dextrose for priming. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malter White Posted April 2, 2021 Share Posted April 2, 2021 10 minutes ago, Maurice79 said: I wonder if the whole street could smell, as it was a wonderful aroma with over 275g of hops. Maurice, that looks bizarrely delicious. Have you ever eaten one? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John E Miller Posted April 2, 2021 Share Posted April 2, 2021 Dark mild this morning, mashed at 72°C. Excited to ferment this and see what happens. 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDT2 Posted April 2, 2021 Share Posted April 2, 2021 1 hour ago, MUZZY said: Maurice, that looks bizarrely delicious. Have you ever eaten one? If he does please record it 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDT2 Posted April 2, 2021 Share Posted April 2, 2021 I did a 15 litre batch of @Green Blob ‘s Nelson Saison doesn’t look real pretty but smells good with the whirlpool Nelson and buttered with Columbus. look forward to this one. I used the yeast cake from the previous Saison I bottled today. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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