New All Grain setup

[Hairy]

3 minutes ago, iBooz2 said:

Yep already got a few of these sizes, currently holding all my specialty grains in 1 x 20 litre at the moment and use the other 2 x 11 L and 4 x 5 L for various tasks as I have no running water in the brewery.

Thinking I need another big 35 litre job and two more 20 L handy pails to get me over the line for time being.  Maybe just buy 10 Kg of grains in future and then be able to mix the grain stocks up a bit more so I can pretty much brew anything on a whim.

Cheers - AL

It will be cheaper to buy a few extra containers and buy your base malt in 25kg bags. 

Buy smaller quantities of your other grains like Munich, Vienna, Wheat and specialty malts.

Edited January 3, 2021 by Hairy

[Pezzza]

Agree completely with @Hairy above re whole bags and specialty malt purchasing...

Yeah I got a few Blueys - that nice big White Boy - that I would love to have more of.... and then eskies and sealed-ish big plastic lid crate type storage.... stuff in the eskies are sealed zip lockers...  And in me Larder is pretty much pest free... well so far so good...  apologies for crapppp photee... and then if any whole unopened and or partially used and taped up 25kg bags I sorta hide around them around the house in strategic pest free dark cool locations hahaha!   Gotta stay ahead of the Covid Rebound : |

 

 

 

Edited January 3, 2021 by Graubart

[Shamus O'Sean]

1 hour ago, iBooz2 said:

Another question for you if you don't mind.  Water profile?  You would be probably on the same water supply to me - Yarra Valley Water and wondering if I need to look at a reverse RO filter setup as they too are exy $ for good ones.  Do you do anything special to your water that I might need to consider?  I have tank water so can filter that if everyone reckons it is a good as you can get without fiddling with / tweaking water profile too much.

I use the profile below.   I am in a South East Water area

I made this up from seeing a water profile for Scoresby on a Kegland Youtube video about Brewfather.  Plus doing a KH/GH test as per David Heath Homebrew Youtube channel video "Homebrew beer water testing on a budget".  I think the KH/GH test said I had more Calcium than the Kegland video.

I do water additions using the Brewfather calculator.  However, I have no idea what I am doing and whether it makes any difference at all.

Like Ye Ole Bearded One I add 50 - 200g of Acidulated Malt to get my mash pH between 5.2 and 5.4.

I also add 0.4 - 0.5g of Sodium Metabisulphite to my mash water and sparge water to kill the Chlorine, or is it Chloride?

I did buy a cheap water distiller recently.  However, I have not used it to make brewing water yet.

[Pezzza]

3 hours ago, Shamus O'Sean said:

the Chlorine, or is it Chloride?

Chlorine is added as a Gas to assist in disinfection of reticulated water systems...

Salt in Solution - the sea - or if you add some table salt to water - is mainly made up of Sodium and Chloride Ions - the Cation and Anion - as the salt goes into solution.

I am not an expert re WTPs but believe for your town-water-systems you will be chasing the removal of free-chlorine from your water for a better water profile for fermentation.

I used reticulated water for years doing KnK and never had a problem with getting the "yeast party started"...

[jamiek86]

@Shamus O'Sean @Graubart i have always wondered about this water profile and how it makes a difference. I was told that's why i can tell the  difference over a german pilsner brewed there or under license here its not as good. Where i am on the Murray River i can only taste the chlorine for if drinking fresh from tap. If i bottle water and leave in fridge for more than day the taste disapeers. Probably the same for when i fill fv half way day before brewing and put in brew fridge to chill it would almost be gone. I would assume say using tank water you would have more chance of infection unless had fresh rain only days old in it. In saying that in AG your boiling so maybe only if doing KnK would be a risk. I knew a bloke who used to brew on tank water and was advised one milton tablet for a 23 litre brew. It was actually PB2 that advised this to him he told me of this forum. As far as those other chemicals I've got no idea but will be interesting research as water is the largest ingredient i suppose making it beter makes the beer better.

[iBooz2]

@Shamus O'Sean Thanks for those links,  will have a good read and investigate all this a little further down the AG path.

 

Did another heat and boil test last night to confirm a few things.

Discovered -

1. What a good idea it was of mine to fit that ball valve to the spare 20 pot as these magnetic drive pumps do not self prime so now all I have to do before I start is open ball valve which drops some sparge water straight into the pump without having to disconnect anything.  Even though the pump is mounted just slightly lower than the wort boil pot it will not pump without the above help.

2. Camlocks come undone, maybe because they are brand new and need bedding in, one or two of them seem to release one arm or the other and leak.  Turned my back to find a gas lighter and wondered why the floor was being flooded.  Pump was going for its life trying to empty the boiler.  I now have cable ties around them holding each pair of clasps tight just in case I walk away during a long boil and lose all my wort.  Got bags of cable ties so no big deal if I have to cut one every now and again.

3. The supplied 2200 watt element alone will not hold the water (just 25 L in this case) on a rolling boil.  In fact with gas off and inky set to 100 C it loses about 1 C every minute (this is with the lid off to simulate a real boil situation).  Once it dropped to 95 C had not option but to abandon the element idea and go back to gas boil.

4. By putting a small mirror on the floor under the edge of the burner was able to see and monitor the gas flame so I could tweak it for minimal flame to "just hold" a rolling boil.  The inky said temp was 98.6 C and was the same and remained stable temp over the whole 60" test boil.

5. The previous boil off losses 28% remains the same figure this test as before.  25 litres at start of boil and 18 litres left after 60 minutes. I think because it such a big pot with larger surface area, steam losses are higher.  I am thinking I will do a test batch next using 4 kg grain and 26 l of strike water then sparge to get my pre boil volume about right and just have to wing the gravity's for the time being and see what they come out at for a 21 L FV volume.

Also got reminded that steam burns hands.

Cheers - AL

[Shamus O'Sean]

1 hour ago, iBooz2 said:

@Shamus O'Sean Thanks for those links,  will have a good read and investigate all this a little further down the AG path.

 

Did another heat and boil test last night to confirm a few things.

Discovered -

1. What a good idea it was of mine to fit that ball valve to the spare 20 pot as these magnetic drive pumps do not self prime so now all I have to do before I start is open ball valve which drops some sparge water straight into the pump without having to disconnect anything.  Even though the pump is mounted just slightly lower than the wort boil pot it will not pump without the above help.

2. Camlocks come undone, maybe because they are brand new and need bedding in, one or two of them seem to release one arm or the other and leak.  Turned my back to find a gas lighter and wondered why the floor was being flooded.  Pump was going for its life trying to empty the boiler.  I now have cable ties around them holding each pair of clasps tight just in case I walk away during a long boil and lose all my wort.  Got bags of cable ties so no big deal if I have to cut one every now and again.

3. The supplied 2200 watt element alone will not hold the water (just 25 L in this case) on a rolling boil.  In fact with gas off and inky set to 100 C it loses about 1 C every minute (this is with the lid off to simulate a real boil situation).  Once it dropped to 95 C had not option but to abandon the element idea and go back to gas boil.

4. By putting a small mirror on the floor under the edge of the burner was able to see and monitor the gas flame so I could tweak it for minimal flame to "just hold" a rolling boil.  The inky said temp was 98.6 C and was the same and remained stable temp over the whole 60" test boil.

5. The previous boil off losses 28% remains the same figure this test as before.  25 litres at start of boil and 18 litres left after 60 minutes. I think because it such a big pot with larger surface area, steam losses are higher.  I am thinking I will do a test batch next using 4 kg grain and 26 l of strike water then sparge to get my pre boil volume about right and just have to wing the gravity's for the time being and see what they come out at for a 21 L FV volume.

Also got reminded that steam burns hands.

Cheers - AL

1. I did the same. Very handy.
2. That is surprising. I retrofitted one to my Grainfather. No failures yet, fingers crossed. 
3. Again, that is surprising. Is it one of the newer styles that heats gradually so you get less, if no, burn on?
4. Nice.
5. Still sounds a lot. But your two test runs support each other. We do not seem to consider what is lost during the mash and temp ramps. The pot is still steaming, so there must be loss.  Hence your numbers are probably spot on.
6. Ouch!

[iBooz2]

4 hours ago, Shamus O'Sean said:

1. I did the same. Very handy.
2. That is surprising. I retrofitted one to my Grainfather. No failures yet, fingers crossed. 
3. Again, that is surprising. Is it one of the newer styles that heats gradually so you get less, if no, burn on?
4. Nice.
5. Still sounds a lot. But your two test runs support each other. We do not seem to consider what is lost during the mash and temp ramps. The pot is still steaming, so there must be loss.  Hence your numbers are probably spot on.
6. Ouch!

I mentioned #1 with tongue in cheek as someone else would have already though of that idea. Should use emoji's more shouldn't I. 

Problem solved with #3 @Shamus O'Sean with more testing today.  I really wanted to do the boil part via electric as its more trustworthy than walking away with the gas going.  Anyway I was running my inky via a Arlec 10A RCD safety distribution box on account of all the stainless steel, water and 240 VAC (ya taking notice @MartyG1525230263 and others) and this was run off a 2 metre std white power cord (just because it was just there and handy) which in turn was plugged into a standard 10 A GPO.  Thinking about it (and with my experience should have known) wondered if there was too much voltage drop in the power lead wires so hence the element was not seeing the full 240 VAC after all there is 10 A being sucked through that wire.  I could not get the water temp above 78.1 C in this configuration.

So plugged the Arlec RCD distribution box straight into the 10 A GPO and instantly the temp started to creep up but again maxed out but this time at 90.3 C so I knew I was on the right track.

Next plugged the Arlec RCD distribution box direct into a 15 A GPO I had installed for my welder and again better performance from the element as the 15 A only has a short run to the meter box and nothing else is on that circuit so even less voltage drop in the wires.  Now it will maintain a boil so long as recirculate pump is off so I am reasonably happy with that outcome.  If I turn the pump on it kills the temp, 1 because of hoses and SS fittings and 2 the pump will be sucking extra amps as well.

So when you AG'ners do your 60" or so boils do you have you pump running?  I know with the Brewzilla and the like that is a yes to stop burning but what about everyone else?

 Shamus - when I did the boil off tests I made sure any steam losses already lost in the heat up stages were replaced by boiling the kettle and topping up to my desired litre marks, when it quickly restarted to boil started to time the 60".  The actual boil off losses are just that, "the boil off bit only".  Thats why I questioned the high loss figure.  Funny you should mention steam losses as I was doing the manual math on tests litres in. added, absorbed, lost, boiled off and or left behind found my software has a discrepancy of 3.9 litres (less) than I calculate.  Maybe they have already allowed for this steam.  I have 4 litres set as trub / system losses so I am yet to find out where this 3.9 L comes from or is taken from.

Anyway thanks for all your help.

Cheers - AL

Edited January 5, 2021 by iBooz2

[Pezzza]

3 hours ago, iBooz2 said:

So when you AG'ners do your 60" or so boils do you have you pump running? 

Nope...  no pump running when I do the boil - all disconnected by then.

But I am a brewinabasket brewer as you know. 

 

I did have 1 heating element burn on ages ago - terrible state if affairs - my only real brew day AG disaster so far- had huge amount of Xtal malt in it steeping late ... anyway CPB shipped a new Element... reckoned the element had gone spazzzmodic. 

I upgraded to a better qual element as well from CP on their advice... and a voltage controller... use less Xtal malt and not had a prob since donk-donk touch wood.... 

The TriClover fittings - clamps - camlocks?  Never had a prob either - maybe just lucky for me cos have had plenty other falllaaafel-ups on various things hey. 

As for all the steam loss etc... I brew somewhat freehand... I don't run a web-enabled RDBMS to control my brew day maybe I should but so far so good... my final volumes vary a little, my attenuation varies and my efficiency varies mostly with malt types, but one thing does not vary - it all produces great AG beer.  Well so far anyway.  Dastardly Burn-on once and brew-trolley-FV spillage event (clumsiness and brewing late) another time the only real disasters so far... fortunately?

Am sure I can learn a lot with what you come up with @iBooz2 in similar Brew in a Basket system ; )

 

[Shamus O'Sean]

14 hours ago, iBooz2 said:

So when you AG'ners do your 60" or so boils do you have you pump running? 

I only run the pump for about 5 minutes toward the end of the boil, to push boiling wort through the counterflow chiller to sterilise it before use.  I did notice that the boil eases right off.  I thought it was just because the wort passes through the chiller and cools a bit, dropping the overall wort temperature and retarding the boil.  Based on what you describe, I think that the pump is stealing energy from the element and that is what "pauses" the boil. I think that is the case because when I turn the pump off, after the chiller is sterilised, the boil comes back pretty quickly.  I will pay more attention next time I brew.

[iBooz2]

@Shamus O'Sean It would be a bit of both there Shamus, The poaching of some power by the pump and the radiator effect of the external gear / chiller.  In the future I intend to run the inky and element off my 15 A circuit and the pump off the standard 10 A just because I can and it is better that way.  I will run the re-circulating pump during the mash and sparge and switch it off during the boil until the sanitize at the end.

And a big thank you, of reminding me to sanitize the chiller with boiling wort before the next proper cooling step and dumping it into the FV.  Something I may not have forgotten but I have no excuses now if I do.

Cheers - AL

 

[iBooz2]

Finally did my first real AG batch 08/01/2021 which was a mid-strength Summer Ale recipe for 21 Litres.

The whole process took 5.25 hours not including the clean up as it was getting late so did that the next morning.  The clean-up took about 30” so would need to add that into overall time tally.  Looking through my brew day notes I can see where I can trim some time off this.  Lost 30” because I overshot my strike water temp and had to then wait for it to cool down a bit.  Was heating on gas so no temp control, only took 20” but I was playing with stock market stuff and did not notice.  Next time will set temp alarm on Inky to alert me.  Lost another 15” mucking around with test sparge water system and a further 15” mucking around with chilling system.

The mash was done at 66 C for 60 “in 30 litres strike water and suspect this is bit too thin a mix for 4 kg grain (still trying to get used the software and numbers its presents).  The software says (see pic) strike water (L) 26, total mash volume (L) 30. The 4 (L) difference is because I have set the grain absorption to 1 litre per kg of grain so can understand that.  I have not set the water to grain ratio in the software as have no idea what that should be.  Also have set the losses to trub and chiller at 4 litres but after two water only tests and one real AG batch the best number for this would be about 3 litres. The grain bed was drained and sparged with 75 C water to bring pre-boil volume up to exactly 35 L but it was impossible to see the volume etch markings on inside of pot with the basket in the draining position and when it was removed the steam got in the way. 

So next bit of kit will be a SS dip stick with markings for both 21 L and 42 l batch pre-boil levels so I can check while sparge and simplify this process. Prefer a dip stick over a sight glass because it would be easier to clean.  The basket was emptied out into compost bin rinsed off ready to be used as a big hop spider.

Forgot to take a pre-boil OG, did the 60” boil with the hop schedule as per my recipe but used the basket for the half Whirlfloc tablet and hops.  One possible issue I can see doing it with such a big hop basket is that during the boil it was rolling boil on inside of the basket and foaming boil around the outer edges, almost a boil over.

My concern here is have I introduced some hot side aeration doing this.  Should I just by a hop spider from Kegland instead?

These whirlfloc tablets certainly generate some mud from the wort.  Looks like the mud in the mangroves at the top end of Westernport.  It was so thick the little bit of liquid left in there was hard to drain from the basket and wasted several more minutes.

Sanitised my cooling coil and pipes with boiling wort for several minutes and had a sort of whirlpool going to pot but I think that SS spiral tube I use as a filter retards the whirlpool effect so next batch will be tried without it as no grain got down the outside of my basket thanks to my dunny seat table arrangement, in fact it proved very handy to be able to lay the drum of crushed grain on it while tipping and stirring it in.

Chilling was not a problem as had rehearsed this a couple of times.  First pass is just with cold tap water to get temps down to about 60 C the second pass with fresh cold tap water and ice bottles added.  Going to get another of these tubs so I can keep the water from first pass as cleaning water (thanks to whoever posted they do this, great tip, @MartyG1525230263 I think) as it was about 50 C and ideal for task.

OG taken at 21 C with freshly calibrated refractometer proved disappointing at 1.038 (was expecting 1.045) so think there is something wrong with the potential_extract numbers in the software re the grain used or in my process, perhaps a bit of both.  This will influence my BU:GU ratio now and suspect it may turn out slightly more bitter than recipe predicts.  I used BB Vic Pale Malt and have no idea at this stage how to find out or calculate what it should be which would be handy for future grains added to the software.  Just left it at 1.038 as software defaulted to that.

The colour of the wort is much different for a K&K version so we will just have to wait and see how it turns out.

Hope all this extra gear, $’s and effort in brew day labour time is worth it.  Any suggestions or comments on my process appreciated.  Any comments recommending I return to K&K will be ignored (for time being anyway). 

Cheers - AL

Edited January 10, 2021 by iBooz2

[Hairy]

HSA is a myth.

Re dip stick, I use to have a SS ruler to measure volume in my old 50 litre pot. Once you get past the tap, the measurements are linear i.e. xx cm per litre.

[Shamus O'Sean]

Nice brewday @iBooz2.  Already getting through it quicker than me.

Inky with 75°C alarm is handy for sparge water too.  Before I started using it, I once got my sparge water up to 90°C.  Had to add cool water to get it back down quickly and just use the sparge volume as per recipe.

For comparison, the default numbers for Grainfather are:

• Grain absorption: 0.8L/kg
• Water/grain ratio: 2.7L/kg

I have only done a handful of AG brews, so look for advice from the more experienced.  However, I have been disappointed with using a hop spider.  It is fine for doing the hop boil, but the one I have has a mesh opening size of 0.2mm.  It takes ages for it to drain.  My last brew I used a paint strainer bag instead (based on @Aussiekraut's advice).  This method was much handier.  

Your efficiency seems way down.  You have it set at 70%, but with your OG, it is even lower.  I wonder if it is due to the greater volume of water in the mash.  It is a different system, but your grain bill in my Grainfather only needs 14.3 L of mash water and 15.3L of sparge water.

Certainly look at your water numbers in the software.  Otherwise, it sounds like you had a great day.

[iBooz2]

1 hour ago, Hairy said:

HSA is a myth.

Re dip stick, I use to have a SS ruler to measure volume in my old 50 litre pot. Once you get past the tap, the measurements are linear i.e. xx cm per litre.

You are truly a genius Hairy, lucky for me there are very smart blokes on this forum otherwise I would be lost. 

You would not believe it but within arms reach of the boiler is my trusty 40 inch Lufkin steel ruler hanging from the peg board.  Well give me an uppercut!  Had one right besides me the whole time. Here I was thinking a trip to the local steel guy was in order for this.

Hopefully it is SS, a magnet does stick to it (it will not for 316) but there is no surface rust after many years so would reckon it is 304 grade SS so all good.

Cheers - AL

Edited January 10, 2021 by iBooz2

[iBooz2]

59 minutes ago, Shamus O'Sean said:

Certainly look at your water numbers in the software.  Otherwise, it sounds like you had a great day.

Thanks Shamus, yes agreed that's where I need to start.  If I did not know the numbers I just left them at the software defaults.  Maybe should do same recipe in Beersmith and compare but was hoping to use just Brewmate as is on the PC in brewery garage.  The other is on my laptop so more mucking around.

Also thanks for crunching those volumes and grains for me in Brewfather.  I did some reading after the AG brew trying to find out where I may have gone wrong and made notes re grains and volumes (which I cannot find at the minute) so it will be interesting to see further down the track if my revised numbers were actually close to yours.

I have a dozen or so of those hop socks so will give that a go next time as it will save me trying to drain that big basket and time is precious on an AG brew day.

Cheers - AL

[iBooz2]

A big brew day today for AG batch #2.  Changed my technique around a bit and moved my data over onto my Beer Smith second license so I have it at hand right in the brewery shed.

This batch was a recipe just made up out of stuff I had at hand and wanted a wholly Australian made product but had to substitute Nottingham yeast as we went out last night and I forgot to get my CCA yeast starter going. Anyway its as close I as possible.

Started at 13:00 today as my wife was working and she hates the smell of the mash and the boil so did the brew day while she would be away.  Did not finish the cleanup until 19:30, all for 20 odd litres in the fermenter.  Cannot wait until I have some staple recipes that I like so I can do double batches into 2 x FV's to double down on this time.

Had a problem with my grain mill or rather the grain mill had a problem with me.  Tried to mill the brain with a nearly flat battery in the drill and mill jammed.  Ok just flick the drill in reverse for a second and it will clear NOT.  Had to disassemble the mill to clear as I could not get other roller to function even with trying to prick the grains out with a cake cooked tester jigger.  Lost nearly an hour there.  Also Beer Smith gives you as mash in temp which turns out is too high so next time only going to do 1 C higher as lost about 10" there. Yes got the Inky high alarm set this time so picked it up quickly. Did a 2 part mash this time 66.7 C for 75" and then ramped it up to 75.6 for 10" once it actually got there.  Efficiencies are a lot better this batch so that worked.  everything else went as planned except not quite enough water to start so ended up about 1 litre short on my 21 L batch as just did a BIAB profile and no sparg. All good learning.

The other thing I modified on my kit was a whirlpool input port lower down and this made a big difference.  Its a second tap just above the pickup tap with a whirlpool fitting on the inside of tub.

Plus all day been worried that there is a cyclone about to hit my house north of Cairns tomorrow, my tenants are FIFO miners and are away.  The big shade sail over the back deck might end up in @Green Blob territory as I have nobody to take it down at such short notice.

Cheers - AL

Edited January 17, 2021 by iBooz2

[Pezzza]

On 1/17/2021 at 9:28 PM, iBooz2 said:

a cyclone about to hit my house north of Cairns tomorrow, my tenants are FIFO miners and are away. 

That's what yer get when you are rich and famous with properties all around the country like you have Boozer Cobber ; )

Edited January 20, 2021 by Graubart

[iBooz2]

51 minutes ago, Graubart said:

That's what yer get when you are rich and famous with properties all around the country like you have Boozer Cobber ; )

Ha ha har..  Yep lucky it swung south and headed for downtown Cardwell before running out of puff.   Had my best month in years on ASX this month.  If you only knew the numbers you would cry tears of snake venom BB (nar only kidding. I live a very humble life - all good).  In fact I have you to thank, was going to take a rest this month but could not help myself and started researching again.  The rest period has been moved back to March now.  BTW CSL is a buy now, look to sell circa 291-ish.

[jamiek86]

59 minutes ago, Graubart said:

That's what yer get when you are rich and famous with properties all around the country like you have Boozer Cobber ; )

yes that's right when your young you get told get a good job and education and make good money and be successful. They don't tell u that you have to pay more tax and that the peasants will hate you for it. @iBooz2 watch out for those pitch forks

[Pezzza]

7 minutes ago, jamiek86 said:

watch out for those 

... people lining up to sample your latest AG Brew @iBooz2 Boozer haha! 

[Pezzza]

12 minutes ago, iBooz2 said:

 BTW CSL is a buy now, look to sell circa 291-ish.

Thanks mate for that inf mate - and glad you had a win too - gold - you put in the hard yards doing the research so it's cool when it all comes good... luvyerwork.

Am embroiled in a few other pressing matters at the moment so not got to the other stuff... but appreciate your note re CSL - Ta... good stuff. 

[iBooz2]

Looking at 3rd AG brew day tomorrow.  Another summer ale version 2 tweaked a bit as the new equipment experimentation continues.  It will be 21 L batch again to see if I can nail down the volumes at each step so I know what to aim for each time.

Did a couple of tests on my water supply which is filtered through a 2 cartridge water filter in house.  Yarra Valley water report from last year says pH averages at 7.8 and when I tested it with an out of date spa test kit today the results were 6.8 so that figure could be a bit rubbery, a KH test resulted in 53.7 ppm and the GH test also resulted in 53.7 ppm.

Have done many many hours of reading and research but still no idea what I am really doing with any accuracy and what numbers to enter into BeerSmith.

This version I am going to add 100 gm acidulated malt as I suspect I need to get the mash pH down closer to the ideal which I believe is 5.2 - 5.6.  BeerSmith is telling me (if I have punched in the correct numbers in the correct fields) this mash pH will be 5.6 with the 100 gm added so will use that as a starting point until my new pH meter arrives.

Also made up an adapter so I can push some CO2 into the wort tubing and therefore push out all the wort left in the chilling coil and hoses to lessen the losses and maximize wort in FV.  I can also do this with the pump pushing pre-boiled water through after the chill and after the transfer to FV.  Just have to be careful and stop short of too much water getting into the FV, which should be easy as I can see when the wort ends and water begins in silicone hose.  Going to try both methods and see what is easiest and quickest.

Hopefully I am heading in the right direction.

Cheers - AL

[Shamus O'Sean]

@iBooz2, I  have been using 100 - 150g of Acidulated Malt in my pale brews to get down to a pH of about 5.4.  An Imperial Stout I did a little while ago did not need any.

PS - Do you think you have enough water in your inventory? It made me smile. 

Edited January 24, 2021 by Shamus O'Sean

[iBooz2]

42 minutes ago, Shamus O'Sean said:

@iBooz2, I  have been using 100 - 150g of Acidulated Malt in my pale brews to get down to a pH of about 5.4.  An Imperial Stout I did a little while ago did not need any.

PS - Do you think you have enough water in your inventory? It made me smile. 

Thanks Shamus,  I pinched your idea of the AM so bought 3 kg on Friday.  The water inventory is an estimate of when I think they will cut my supply off and I will have to move over on to tank water (that's if I don't stop spending on AG gear). ha ha.

Edited January 24, 2021 by iBooz2