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What's in Your Fermenter? 2020


Otto Von Blotto

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I have 2 rather simple beers in the fridge, an IPA made with Brew A IPA and can of LME, hops tea of 25g each of mosaic & cascade, and what I've called a Straight Ale - Real Ale with 1 kg LDME and hops tea of 25g each of simcoe and EKG. I made a starter using 1 pkt Nott in 4L water with LDME and split it between the 2 brews.

This was them 8 hours later.

 

18Dec Brews1.jpg

Edited by Journeyman
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12 minutes ago, jamiek86 said:

@Journeyman i like the way Nottingham takes off and does the job and only used it once.  @Stickers you always have a couple of brews going on that bench are you stockpiling it up for when it gets too hot? or do you go through it really fast?

i usually try to bottle one batch per week but since getting a bit more adventurous with grain additions, ferment time has increased from when i started with K&K so i'm trying to get to a point where i can leave brews in bottles for 3-4 weeks rather than 2 weeks. once i bottle again tomorrow i should have 3 batches maturing, one brew on the go, one i'm drinking and a shelf where i keep a couple from each batch to taste after a month or so.

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8 hours ago, Journeyman said:

I have 2 rather simple beers in the fridge, an IPA made with Brew A IPA and can of LME, hops tea of 25g each of mosaic & cascade, and what I've called a Straight Ale - Real Ale with 1 kg LDME and hops tea of 25g each of simcoe and EKG. I made a starter using 1 pkt Nott in 4L water with LDME and split it between the 2 brews.

This was them 8 hours later.

 

18Dec Brews1.jpg

 

Yumox!!!!

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14 hours ago, Stickers said:

i usually try to bottle one batch per week but since getting a bit more adventurous with grain additions, ferment time has increased from when i started with K&K

I didn't notice much difference in ferment times with partial mashes. I've done up to 2 kg grain and although I didn't do a countdown I'm not aware it took longer than normal. Maybe a day? But I would have noticed if it took 2 extra days to hit FG I think.

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9 hours ago, Pale Man said:

Yumox!!!!

Yep, Kicking along nicely - both seem to have lareayd dropped maybe 0.025 points - hard to tell as the tubes have Kraussen in them.

Both brews are enzymed as well - be interesting to see how much extra ABV it gives - the previous ones were partial mash brews and they all got something over a 2% jump from expected.

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17 hours ago, Journeyman said:

I have 2 rather simple beers in the fridge, an IPA made with Brew A IPA and can of LME, hops tea of 25g each of mosaic & cascade, and what I've called a Straight Ale - Real Ale with 1 kg LDME and hops tea of 25g each of simcoe and EKG. I made a starter using 1 pkt Nott in 4L water with LDME and split it between the 2 brews.

This was them 8 hours later.

 

18Dec Brews1.jpg

Looks good Jman. Always good to make a starter even when using dry yeast. You never know how it has been stored. Using the starter guarantees a strong ferment.

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Just now, Greeny1525229549 said:

Looks good Jman. Always good to make a starter even when using dry yeast. You never know how it has been stored. Using the starter guarantees a strong ferment.

I was a sprinkler at the beginning, then read through a thread I think started by otto on starters. Thought I'd give it a go and knocked a couple of days off the ferment time of the next couple of brews. After a time I realised I wasn't actually doing his version but a vitality starter - pitching when the yeast is at high activity seems to give an extra boost even over the viability starters. I have tried those a couple of times and even just rehydrating but the vitality version seems the go for a speedy ferment.

I don't keep accurate records to the level needed to back this but I'm pretty sure I've never had a brew take more than 7 days to get to FG, not even the coffee stout. The only things I do different to most others is pretty much always use Nott and those vitality starters.

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2 hours ago, Journeyman said:

I was a sprinkler at the beginning, then read through a thread I think started by otto on starters. Thought I'd give it a go and knocked a couple of days off the ferment time of the next couple of brews. After a time I realised I wasn't actually doing his version but a vitality starter - pitching when the yeast is at high activity seems to give an extra boost even over the viability starters. I have tried those a couple of times and even just rehydrating but the vitality version seems the go for a speedy ferment.

I don't keep accurate records to the level needed to back this but I'm pretty sure I've never had a brew take more than 7 days to get to FG, not even the coffee stout. The only things I do different to most others is pretty much always use Nott and those vitality starters.

Yep. Pitching at full krausen you will get the quickest start and consequently quickest finish. I have been doing that for my ales a lot of late. I no chill all my ales but now have been decanting some into my erlenmeyer flask before the no chill. Cool that down and pitch my saved yeast into the erlenmeyer. I cool the cube overnight and pitch in the morning with the full erlenmeyer. Get a quick ferment with a known cell count as well. Typically 12 hours in the erlenmeyer it is in the stationary phase ( highest cell count ). Working a treat

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Woohoo cleaned one more Fermenter out this 4th Sunday in Advent... Bottling Again Woohoo - who needs kegging?!  😜  Here the Wheaten Ale overrun of Wheatie Wort from the Hefeweizen which should be kegged shortly... commando hop w Mozzie... not done that before... bit of detritus floating around.... No capacity for Cold Crash.... suspect bottle cleaning might be hard work.  Using the little Coopers FV - light work which is nice.  Moz flocc on bottom smelled great. 

image.thumb.png.87a1b8273d508f62ae01f6c614af6876.png

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My take on the Coopers Recipe Dass Alto, but I will still call it that because I do not stray too far from the intent

  • 1.7kg Real Ale
  • 1.5kg Amber Malt Extract
  • 300g Amber Malt (cold steep) instead of 200g Caramunich 1
  • 25g Tettnang 10 minute boil
  • 15g Tettnang 15 minute hop stand
  • 25g Tettnang Dry Hop
  • ~200 bil cells Nottingham (Gen 4) @ 14°C

I went with Tettnang hops rather than Spalt hops because that is what I had in stock.  They have similar properties.  I added a hop steep, for flavour, that is not in the original recipe.

  • OG: 1.046
  • IBU: 40
  • EBC: 36
  • ABV: 4.2%
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15 minutes ago, Shamus O'Sean said:

My take on the Coopers Recipe Dass Alto, but I will still call it that because I do not stray too far from the intent

  • 1.7kg Real Ale
  • 1.5kg Amber Malt Extract
  • 300g Amber Malt (cold steep) instead of 200g Caramunich 1
  • 25g Tettnang 10 minute boil
  • 15g Tettnang 15 minute hop stand
  • 25g Tettnang Dry Hop
  • ~200 bil cells Nottingham (Gen 4) @ 14°C

I went with Tettnang hops rather than Spalt hops because that is what I had in stock.  They have similar properties.  I added a hop steep, for flavour, that is not in the original recipe.

  • OG: 1.046
  • IBU: 40
  • EBC: 36
  • ABV: 4.2%

this one you have already done? I thought u were an all grain man would have expected it to be at least 4.5%?

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Hi everyone, been a bit quiet the last 2 months or so. Still cranking out lagers for summer and getting a good stockpile happening, Been making the Fresh Draught recipe with a few variations. I really like the taste of this brew with the cascade hops. What is consistent though is a lack of head retention. You pour the beer and it has bubbles rising in the glass but 30-60 seconds after the head has gone. Variations include bulk priming with LDME or sugar, Coopers sugar drops 2 per bottle, PET bottles and glass long necks. Tried priming at different rates, 2.4 to 2.7 vol CO2. Wouldn't say its poorly carbonated, just not forming and keeping a good head. Recipe is draught tin, 1.5kg dry malt and cascade hops made up to 23L with W344/70 yeast brewed at 12 deg.

Am I missing an adjunct? How can I make this brew better?

Edited by UncleStavvy
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1 hour ago, jamiek86 said:

this one you have already done? I thought u were an all grain man would have expected it to be at least 4.5%?

Hi Jamie, I have not done this brew before (as far as I remember).

I still like to do the kit 'n' kilo brews.  They take much less time, but give good results.  Coopers have great recipes.  I love all grain brewing too.

The 4.2% is based on just under 70% attenuation by the yeast.  I hope it will do a bit better.  I am also trying to do my beers under 5% ABV so I can drink more in a session.

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9 minutes ago, Shamus O'Sean said:

Hi Jamie, I have not done this brew before (as far as I remember).

I still like to do the kit 'n' kilo brews.  They take much less time, but give good results.  Coopers have great recipes.  I love all grain brewing too.

The 4.2% is based on just under 70% attenuation by the yeast.  I hope it will do a bit better.  I am also trying to do my beers under 5% ABV so I can drink more in a session.

ah yes if kit yeast its hard to remember that get less in pack compared to getting an 11.5 gram pack. but have always found coopers packets usually do really well for having less but can get that funny taste sometimes if try add little bit more fermentable

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11 hours ago, Shamus O'Sean said:

The 4.2% is based on just under 70% attenuation by the yeast

Nott does WAY better than 70% - I adjusted the value in the spreadsheet up to 78% because the 75% it had in there was consistently not high enough. Might have to drop it to 77% though as I have gone slightly the other way.

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11 hours ago, jamiek86 said:

ah yes if kit yeast its hard to remember that get less in pack compared to getting an 11.5 gram pack. but have always found coopers packets usually do really well for having less but can get that funny taste sometimes if try add little bit more fermentable

That's a good reason to make starters - boosts the amount of yeast available to pitch.

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1 hour ago, Journeyman said:

That's a good reason to make starters - boosts the amount of yeast available to pitch.

haven't looked into this properly yet but it if it involves more sanitising things and adding measured amounts of ldm to make it id rather throw in an extra packet. every time you buy a specialty yeast your saving the one that came with the tin so start to build them up. then one day you get to brew a recepie with say 2 coopers yeast.In saying that I will be giving a starter a go at some stage but not quite ready yet.

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27 minutes ago, jamiek86 said:

haven't looked into this properly yet but it if it involves more sanitising things and adding measured amounts of ldm to make it id rather throw in an extra packet. every time you buy a specialty yeast your saving the one that came with the tin so start to build them up. then one day you get to brew a recepie with say 2 coopers yeast.In saying that I will be giving a starter a go at some stage but not quite ready yet.

I use the can yeasts as food for the yeast I'm using to brew - add it to the boil and it provides nutrients for the Nott or other yeast to help it multiply and get vigorous.

I often just use raw sugar for the starter - only used LDM a couple of times. 250 g in a jar, get the temp to ~25° and pitch. Then I just shake it every so often or stir it vigorously enough to froth it, while I do my brew.

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14 hours ago, UncleStavvy said:

Am I missing an adjunct? How can I make this brew better?

Ok Stavvs mate - hopefully I don't get bagged for this as I keep saying it on different threads - have you tried using Coopers Liquid Malt can instead of dry kilo stuff ?  Coopers Light Liquid Malt prolly for what you want...  and I suggest adding it to whatever your recipe is (as well as rather than instead of dry stuff) as bigger body also means better head and head retention in my experience.  Understand you may not want heavier style beer though.... 

 

You could even try a tin of Coopers Liquid Wheat Malt - half barley half wheat it is if I am right from memory.

 

My belief is that there are proteins in fresh malted grain mash - that contribute to head retention and mouthfeel - and remain viable more so in liquid malt extracts - and are denatured by the time the spray drying takes place for Dry Malts...   I may be completely wrong... but it is worth a try Stavvs. 

 

My good man @Red devil 44 uses liquid malts quite a bit with good success Red?

You also could try to get some milled malted wheat and do a 65 deg C stove top mash for 45...  then boil for same-1 hour with your hop addition at that time... 

 

And also other partials such as use of Crystal Malt may help - maybe some light crystal could be tried...

 @ChristinaS1hristina did provide some really nice pointers on partials on a thread here somewhere - where was that @ChristinaS1 ?

 

I use wheat a lot in my AGs and believe it contributes well to head, head retention and mouthfeel.   If you drink German wheat beer weizen you would know how frothy that can be... hence my recommendation to try the wheat.

HTH

BB

Edited by Bearded Burbler
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4 minutes ago, Bearded Burbler said:

Ok Stavvs mate - hopefully I don't get bagged for this as I keep saying it on different threads - have you tried using Coopers Liquid Malt can instead of dry stuff ?  Coopers Light Liquid Malt prolly for what you want...  and I suggest adding it to whatever your recipe is (rather than instead of dry stuff) as bigger body also means better head and head retention in my experience.  Understand you may not want heavier style beer though.... 

 

You could even try a tin of liquid Wheat Malt - half barley half wheat it is if I am right from memory.

 

My belief is that there are proteins in fresh malted grain mash - that contribute to head retention and mouthfeel - and remain viable more so in liquid malt extracts - and are denatured by the time the spray drying takes place for Dry Malts...   I may be completely wrong... but it is worth a try Stavvs. 

 

My good man @Red devil 44 uses liquid malts quite a bit with good success Red?

You also could try to get some milled malted wheat and do a 65 deg C stove top mash for 45...  then boil for same-1 hour with your hop addition at that time... 

 

And also other partials such as use of Crystal Malt may help - maybe some light crystal could be tried...

 @ChristinaS1hristina did provide some really nice pointers on partials on a thread here somewhere - where was that @ChristinaS1 ?

 

I use wheat a lot in my AGs and believe it contributes well to head, head retention and mouthfeel.   If you drink German wheat beer weizen you would know how frothy that can be... hence my recommendation to try the wheat.

HTH

BB

BB, since you've put me onto the Liquid Malt I've had really good head retention. I might add I'm also adding LCM as an adjunct - usually around the 200grams along with maltodextrin about 200grams. Since adding the liquid malt to this combo have not had a problem with head on the beer. A lot here prolly give me a whack for this but I also bulk prime at 10g/l  white sugar. I don't have a problem with the fizz.🤣

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7 minutes ago, Mickep said:

but I also bulk prime at 10g/l  white sugar. I don't have a problem with the fizz

Cheers Mick - you have made the jump forwards - gold.   I am glad that the suggestion helped mate... suspect you would have better creamier mouthfeel too?

As for priming with sugar - from memory @PB2 our trusty old Coopers Moderator I am pretty sure used to bottle prime with sugar as was effective, inexpensive and had buggggger all impact on flavour etc...  And magnitude of addition mate is personal choice hey!

I just kegged my Hefeweizen AG and dropped 20g of white sugar into the 18L for  some natural fizz.... and like a big bottle, to encourage yeast activity to scavenge the Oxygen that gets in there at fill time (not done as a pressurized anoxic kegging event).   Plus a tad sugar will help produce a bit more Hefe (Yeast) so the beer pours as a Hefeweizen and not Kristall haha!  It's out at ambient for 5 or so days for the yeast to do their 'Wild Thang' 😆

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