Jump to content
Coopers Community

My first AG brew


PaddyBrew2

Recommended Posts

Gonna throw down my first AG brew this weekend. Ive always wanted to do a Mosaic/Citra IPA. Been looking at Beersmith and some recipes online and youtube.

Im thinking of the following but would welcome any feedback or suggestions

image.thumb.png.584c59cc2b76d6e05af8e1ca20753a02.png

  

  • Like 6
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Some people say that you should get half to three quarters of your IBU’s from your 60 minute addition when making an IPA. 

When I hit 1060 for a 23L batch I pitch 2 packets of yeast just to be sure. 

At the end of the day it still looks like a pretty solid and tasty recipe and you can do whatever you want. 

Good luck, Beer Baron!!

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Good luck mate take your time maybe sit down and make a checklist before you start because you will forget to do something like add a whirfloc tablet or something like that, cause you get so excited well I do anyway. Take detailed notes so you know what you did so you can improve next time or if it’s awesome you won’t second guess what you did when you make it again.

Looks tasty love Citra and mosaic 😋 

 

 

  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

23 minutes ago, PaddyBrew2 said:

cheers  mate. will make the trip to brewmart Saturday and pick up the good

I don’t know if you have ordered grains from there before but best to email them what you want in advance if you have disregard my post cheers 🍻 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 minutes ago, RDT2 said:

Good luck mate take your time maybe sit down and make a checklist before you start because you will forget to do something like add a whirfloc tablet or something like that, cause you get so excited well I do anyway. Take detailed notes so you know what you did so you can improve next time or if it’s awesome you won’t second guess what you did when you make it again.

Looks tasty love Citra and mosaic 😋 

 

 

absolutely mate, i'll be taking it step by step and making notes on everything.

Yeah ive done some mini mashes using crushed grain and i emailed the guys there and they had it ready for collection the following morning. excellent service in that place

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't use yeast nutrient. An all malt wort should already have enough by itself. 

Agree on the IBUs thing. I made an IPA in the 60s IBUs area but not enough of those came from the early addition. As a result the beer didn't have the bitey, firm bitterness I was aiming for. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

hmm food for thought. So i could maybe do a 60 minute boil of magnum or warrior instead and readjust the other hop additions

so id need 30-40 IBU's from my 60 minute addition. so i could still do the mosaic 60 minutes with 60 mins of magnum or just up the 60 min mosaic addition?

Edited by PaddyBrew2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

sorry folks, i should mention I am going to no chill in the spirit of water conservation.

How drastically would that effect my hop schedule. Being doing some online research and the feedback is a mix of she'll be right, RDWHAHB or it can drastically alter the beer especially hop forward ones 

 

cheers as always

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Paddy, 

If you want a true hop forward beer, I would move the steeped hops citra and mosaic, to cube hops. And drop your steep temp closer to 80. I cube/transfer at 82-85c it’s safe to can at that temp and you don’t extract so much bitterness, just flavour, and cause it’s canned it stays in the wort, not releasing to atmosphere 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

For a no-chill West Coast IPA I'd do a 60 min bittering addition to at least 70 ibu, then big flameout / dry hop additions. Don't worry about any ibu calcs for the flameout addition.

I did try cube hopping a few times, but not a big fan of the results. Maybe I needed to let it cool more before adding the hops. 

Cheers, 

John 

Edited by porschemad911
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

When I was doing AG with the Robobrew it would take 20-mins to get it from 80degC to around 25degC, with the immersion chiller.

I would fill the pool or the water tank with the IC discharge.

The weather in Perth at the minute it would be a fair bit faster.

I have read fast chilling wort from the boil aids in clearer beer?

But water savings is a good idea too!

Cheers

James

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, Otto Von Blotto said:

I just throw my cubes in the pool for an hour or two when I make hoppy ales, after a ten minute stand once filled. 

The wort is probably around 85 degrees after it's transferred to the cube. I've had good results from cube hops.

Are your cubed hops contained or commandoed? I would assume contained which you then remove prior to kegging?

And how does your cube hopping work with your Polyclar regime?

Cheers

Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 hours ago, The Captain!! said:

Paddy, 

If you want a true hop forward beer, I would move the steeped hops citra and mosaic, to cube hops. And drop your steep temp closer to 80. I cube/transfer at 82-85c it’s safe to can at that temp and you don’t extract so much bitterness, just flavour, and cause it’s canned it stays in the wort, not releasing to atmosphere 

Hey Captain. Cheers mate.

 So after my boil is done, turn off elements. Cool it down to 80. Transfer to cube and then drop the hops into the cube ?

commando or in a sock ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, porschemad911 said:

Don't worry about any ibu calcs for the flameout addition.

See that’s where I’m confused. So much conflicting info. Even Beersmith calculates IBUs at flameout.  Others say the bitterness is minuscule. 

I know taste is subjective and I do like the bitterness whereas others would think they’re sucking on a lemon

Link to comment
Share on other sites

55 minutes ago, Worthog said:

Are your cubed hops contained or commandoed? I would assume contained which you then remove prior to kegging?

And how does your cube hopping work with your Polyclar regime?

Cheers

I just chuck them in, I don't ferment in cubes. Most of them get left behind when I transfer the wort to the fermenter. Dry hops are contained though, as are keg hops if I use them. 

Polyclar doesn't seem to affect anything flavour wise. The hoppiness is decent.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, James Lao said:

When I was doing AG with the Robobrew it would take 20-mins to get it from 80degC to around 25degC, with the immersion chiller.

I would fill the pool or the water tank with the IC discharge.

The weather in Perth at the minute it would be a fair bit faster.

I have read fast chilling wort from the boil aids in clearer beer?

But water savings is a good idea too!

Cheers

James

What connects did you use for the chiller mate. I was reading you can have the wort flow from the robobrew through the chiller and have the chiller submerged in a bucket of icy water and that will bring it down 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 hours ago, Otto Von Blotto said:

I just throw my cubes in the pool for an hour or two when I make hoppy ales, after a ten minute stand once filled. 

The wort is probably around 85 degrees after it's transferred to the cube. I've had good results from cube hops.

Again there is conflicting info. Some no chillers say you shouldn’t mess with the chilling process and leave it come down itself naturally whereas others put them in pools or fridges to speed up the process

i thought my catholic faith was the most conflicting thing ever. That was until I took up this hobby 

  • Haha 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...