Otto Von Blotto Posted June 17, 2019 Share Posted June 17, 2019 Yeah it doesn't take anything like a couple of months to carbonate it, I just use serving pressure with those because I'm not planning on drinking them straight away. With other beers I carbonate them overnight by putting them in the fridge*, using 45psi for around 20-22 hours, then turning off the gas and letting it sit for about 6 hours, then turning it back on at serving pressure. I'd love to have a fridge that is just used for keg storage and curing meats but there's no spare space for one without it looking out of place. In that instance if just pressurise the keg for a few hours then stick it in the fridge to lager for a while. *Sometimes they're already cold as they go in straight after being filled, other times they're at room temp and chill down while being carbonated. In the latter case it sometimes takes two days for them to be ready because they aren't fully chilled after one day. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Captain!! Posted June 17, 2019 Share Posted June 17, 2019 I don't even bother with changing my regulator. sits at 14 on the gauge and thats perfect for my tastes. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marty_G Posted June 17, 2019 Author Share Posted June 17, 2019 14 hours ago, The Captain!! said: I don't even bother with changing my regulator. sits at 14 on the gauge and thats perfect for my tastes. That sounds like the best idea to me .... find your best serving pressure and stick to it ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MitchellScott Posted June 17, 2019 Share Posted June 17, 2019 14 minutes ago, MartyG1525230263 said: That sounds like the best idea to me .... find your best serving pressure and stick to it ... It is certainly the best way to do it. But if your system isn't balanced, you may overcarb/undercarb your beer when storing it at your serving pressure. Use this calculator to determine your regulator pressure needed to achieve your Vol of C02: https://www.brewersfriend.com/keg-carbonation-calculator/ Then, use this one to determine the amount of line needed to restrict the flow: http://www.mikesoltys.com/2012/09/17/determining-proper-hose-length-for-your-kegerator/ For example, for 2.60 volumes of C02 in my system, my reg must be set to 12PSI and then as I use 5mm ID liquid tubing, I should have approx 4m of beer line. This should result in a balanced system where you shouldn't ever need to touch the reg (unless force carbing quickly). If you have any questions feel free to ask 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marty_G Posted June 17, 2019 Author Share Posted June 17, 2019 2 minutes ago, MitchellScott said: If you have any questions feel free to ask Righto ... by balanced you mean correct pressure for the length of delivery hose ... would not trial and error when one 1st set up also achieve that or is the volumes of CO2 in the brew the key to balanced ... I will read those links as well ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MitchellScott Posted June 17, 2019 Share Posted June 17, 2019 2 minutes ago, MartyG1525230263 said: Righto ... by balanced you mean correct pressure for the length of delivery hose ... would not trial and error when one 1st set up also achieve that or is the volumes of CO2 in the brew the key to balanced ... I will read those links as well ... You can definitely use trial and error but why screw around when smart people have made calculators to give you near perfect figures to achieve what you want Depending on your target volumes of C02, your regulator pressure will increase or decrease. This in turn, will mean your line length will need to go longer/shorter. For example, if you want your beer at 2.2 vols of C02, then your reg pressure (if the fridge is at 3C) should be 7.8PSI. This in turn, means if you have 5mm ID liquid line, your beer line only needs to be about 2.5m long. Whereas, if you are wanting 2.6 vol of C02 (which means your reg must be around 12PSI), you will need about 4m of beer line to add the extra resistance necessary. Otherwise, your pour will be too fast and you'll get a cup full of head. Because different styles of beer should have different carb levels, this method doesn't work perfectly. I just use 2.6 vol of C02 across the board as I generally drink Ales of some sort, and I am happy to carb all my beers at that level. Mitch. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otto Von Blotto Posted June 17, 2019 Share Posted June 17, 2019 Yeah, I don't think I bothered with calculators much, but I have another variable - flow control taps. My beer lines are only about 2m long. My serving pressure is around 10-11psi, fridge sits at or near zero. This never changes except for when fast carbing. Once it's done I just set it back to serving pressure. The regulator is actually set close to 15, due to the check valves in the manifold reducing the pressure on the way through to the kegs. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marty_G Posted June 17, 2019 Author Share Posted June 17, 2019 5 minutes ago, MitchellScott said: Because different styles of beer should have different carb levels, this method doesn't work perfectly. I just use 2.6 vol of C02 across the board as I generally drink Ales of some sort, and I am happy to carb all my beers at that level. Thanks I read the links interesting stuff ... Thanks so much for the info ... I will be doing ales mostly as well with the occasional Pils over the summer ... I would imagine the carbonation volume of Pils and Ales are pretty close so no need to make an adjustment otherwise i would have to run 2 regulators and I don't want to do that ... I have learnt so much over the last 18 month and particularly in the last 6 months it has been accelerated... great stuff ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MitchellScott Posted June 18, 2019 Share Posted June 18, 2019 13 minutes ago, Otto Von Blotto said: Yeah, I don't think I bothered with calculators much, but I have another variable - flow control taps. My beer lines are only about 2m long. My serving pressure is around 10-11psi, fridge sits at or near zero. This never changes except for when fast carbing. Once it's done I just set it back to serving pressure. The regulator is actually set close to 15, due to the check valves in the manifold reducing the pressure on the way through to the kegs. How do you find out how much pressure you are loosing from your check valves (i.e pressure in the keg itself)? Or just trial and error? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marty_G Posted June 18, 2019 Author Share Posted June 18, 2019 @MitchellScott that chart and calculator are great ... confident now that I can set up the system with around 4 metre of hose at 12PSI and get a good beer 1st pull ... no buggerising around ... Too easy 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MitchellScott Posted June 18, 2019 Share Posted June 18, 2019 3 minutes ago, MartyG1525230263 said: @MitchellScott that chart and calculator are great ... confident now that I can set up the system with around 4 metre of hose at 12PSI and get a good beer 1st pull ... no buggerising around ... Too easy Exactly :). Goodluck! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otto Von Blotto Posted June 18, 2019 Share Posted June 18, 2019 1 hour ago, MitchellScott said: How do you find out how much pressure you are loosing from your check valves (i.e pressure in the keg itself)? Or just trial and error? Pretty much. When I first had my setup I didn't have the manifold, and had the regulator set to just over 10psi. The carb level in the beers seems the same to me now as it did then so I figure it reduces by around 3-4psi. It's pretty common knowledge that check valves reduce it. I did use a calculator and others' experience to get a ballpark figure and then just mucked around from there to get it to my tastes. Probably better erring on the low side initially though. It's much less faffing around to increase carbonation a little than it is to degas a keg to reduce it. At the end of the day I don't really care about CO2 volumes, as long as it presents how I like it, not too flat but not overly fizzy, and pours without foaming everywhere, then I'm happy. I achieve that with my settings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marty_G Posted June 18, 2019 Author Share Posted June 18, 2019 25 minutes ago, Otto Von Blotto said: I didn't have the manifold, and had the regulator set to just over 10psi So do the manifolds have check valves? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otto Von Blotto Posted June 18, 2019 Share Posted June 18, 2019 Yeah they do. I still have a separate one between the manifold and the regulator as well though for added protection. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marty_G Posted June 18, 2019 Author Share Posted June 18, 2019 5 minutes ago, Otto Von Blotto said: Yeah they do. I still have a separate one between the manifold and the regulator as well though for added protection. Great that has helped with another decision ... can get a 2 tap kit with line, ball valve connections, two taps on 90 mm shank, drip tray and twin manifold for 127.00 so will get that as there is a cheaper one minus the tray and manifold for $97.00 so manifold it is.... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otto Von Blotto Posted June 18, 2019 Share Posted June 18, 2019 Not a bad deal. I have a four way manifold to serve the three kegs in the fridge as well as a spare line for purging etc. Certainly much easier than my original setup of t piece connectors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MitchellScott Posted June 18, 2019 Share Posted June 18, 2019 20 minutes ago, MartyG1525230263 said: Great that has helped with another decision ... can get a 2 tap kit with line, ball valve connections, two taps on 90 mm shank, drip tray and twin manifold for 127.00 so will get that as there is a cheaper one minus the tray and manifold for $97.00 so manifold it is.... Just make sure the 90mm shanks are long enough. I originally got 80mm and they were no where near long enough. Ended up getting 150mm ones to be safe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marty_G Posted June 18, 2019 Author Share Posted June 18, 2019 3 hours ago, MitchellScott said: Just make sure the 90mm shanks are long enough. Already have .... the thickness of the wall of the fridge is only 40 mm ... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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