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Ellis77

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On 6/13/2019 at 9:12 PM, Otto Von Blotto said:

Bugger off 😂

Good luck with the English Bitter. It's a nice kit that one. Keep the temp around 21 and it'll turn out nicely I reckon

Will do Otto,

Did you mix with the dry malt or liquid if you can remember?

Cheers

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1 hour ago, Ellis77 said:

So the liquid amber malt extract and a half a kilo of BE? Which BE? 1,2 or 3? Without adding half kilo of BE and just using the liquid malt would this make the brew more like 3.5/4 percent?

Thanks mate 

 

I will attach what the site folk refer to as "Ian's Spreadsheet" - will help with your ABV etc calcs and recipe determinations.

So if you only use Coops Bitter 1.7kg and then 1.5kg Liquid Amber - Ian's Spready suggest you come out at 4.4% in the bottle (including the carb drops as required for secondary ferment).

Then if you would add half a kilo of BE1-2-3 to Primary Ferment Vat pretty much you will end up around 5.2% all things going as planned.

As to which one of BE 1-2-3 -- Well I would suggest that once you have added 1.5kg of liquid malt - probably seek the cheaper alternative - as the Coops Bitter Kit and the Coops liquid malt will drive the result.

As I have Dry Malt Extract in store - I would just use dry malt to add to the main liquid malt inputs... because that is closest to the real thing... Malted Grain - Hops - Water - Yeast...  and I have some to use up... and think it is better than dex or dex mixes.

If you use the Coops Bitter Kit, and then add a kilo of Dry Malt - comes at around 4% in the bottle.  Will be fine.  But I suggest you will get a nicer result with the liquid malt in addition to the main kit.  Maybe try both approaches with sequential brews and report back what you find?

Hope that helps.

BB

 

 

 

Ellis_Ians_Spreadsheet.xls

Edited by Bearded Burbler
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2 minutes ago, Bearded Burbler said:

I will attach what the site folk refer to as "Ian's Spreadsheet" - will help with your ABV etc calcs and recipe determinations.

So if you only use Coops Bitter 1.7kg and then 1.5kg Liquid Amber - Ian's Spready suggest you come out at 4.4% in the bottle (including the carb drops as required for secondary ferment).

Then if you would add half a kilo of BE1-2-3 to Primary Ferment Vat pretty much you will end up around 5.2% all things going as planned.

As to which one of BE 1-2-3 -- Well I would suggest that once you have added 1.5kg of liquid malt - probably seek the cheaper alternative - as the Coops Bitter Kit and the Coops liquid malt will drive the result.

As I have Dry Malt Extract in store - I would just use dry malt... because that is closest to the real thing... Malted Grain - Hops - Water - Yeast...  and I have some to use up... and think it is better than dex or dex mixes.

Hope that helps.

BB

 

 

 

Ellis_Ians_Spreadsheet.xls

That helps out and I'm happy with 4.4 should it all work out ok.  Just one more question, sorry to be a pain. How long in the fermenter? I did my first (lager) for 7/8 days. 

 

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35 minutes ago, Ellis77 said:

That helps out and I'm happy with 4.4 should it all work out ok.  Just one more question, sorry to be a pain. How long in the fermenter? I did my first (lager) for 7/8 days. 

Good question Ellis.  Mate that is why you need to use your festive Hydrometer... Original Gravity... then towards the end... make sure Gravity same over a cuppla readings so know bazooka bottles later on.

I used to be a complete non-believer in hydrometers - just used to follow the bubbler tones... Coops Krausen kit does not use bubbler - so bit hard to use that indicator - and I really believe that starting to note OG and FG is a really good thing to track your brews - ABV - Body - style... will help you gain an understanding of the key principles behind a good and great brew.

I think that the Coops tins say 10 days... I reckon if you have good hygiene and things are cooler this time of year 10 is good - maybe in Bris a bit warmer 7-8 might be fine...

Guess that is why you need to use the hydrometer.  The Coopers Plazzi (plastic) hydro is a great start... I just got a nice glass cylinder and hydrometer off filthy fascists Amazon but besides not wanting to support the big-money vendor -- the product is a beautiful thing and I can pick it up from my GPO Box as nocourier delivers... 

This magnificent glass hydro actually reads zero in water and floats nicely in the glass cylinder it comes with... just be aware they are EXTREMELY FRAGILE so you need the fluid in the cylinder BEFORE you gently place the hydro tube within... fine glass like a light bulb... so be careful with it.... so easy to break.  Must take care.  It's yer best friend whole, and no mate of anyone's when broken ; )

So then you take reading at day 7 when you think you are done - then one at day 8 - tis the same - done like a dinner.... and Ian's Spready will give you an indicator where you should be with OG and FG as well which is helpful.

HTH

The Burbler

image.png.14bc929a8dd35775464fdf33f57a7b4a.png

Edited by Bearded Burbler
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7 minutes ago, Bearded Burbler said:

Good question Ellis.  Mate that is why you need to use your festive Hydrometer... Original Gravity... then towards the end... make sure Gravity same over a cuppla readings so know bazooka bottles later on.

I used to be a complete non-believer in hydrometers - just used to follow the bubbler tones... Coops Krausen kit does not use bubbler - so bit hard to use that indicator - and I really believe that starting to note OG and FG is a really good thing to track your brews - ABV - Body - style... will help you gain an understanding of the key principles behind a good and great brew.

I think that the Coops tins say 10 days... I reckon if you have good hygiene and things are cooler this time of year 10 is good - maybe in Bris a bit warmer 7-8 might be fine...

Guess that is why you need to use the hydrometer.  The Coopers Plazzi (plastic) hydro is a great start... I just got a nice glass cylinder and hydrometer off filthy fascists Amazon but besides not wanting to support the big-money vendor -- the product is a beautiful thing and I can pick it up from my GPO Box as nocourier delivers... 

This magnificent glass hydro actually reads zero in water and floats nicely in the glass cylinder it comes with... just be aware they are EXTREMELY FRAGILE so you need the fluid in the cylinder BEFORE you gently place the hydro tube within... fine glass like a light bulb... so be careful with it.... so easy to break.  Must take care.  It's yer best friend whole, and no mate of anyone's when broken ; )

So then you take reading at day 7 when you think you are done - then one at day 8 - tis the same - done like a dinner.... and Ian's Spready will give you an indicator where you should be with OG and FG as well which is helpful.

HTH

The Burbler

image.png.14bc929a8dd35775464fdf33f57a7b4a.pngn

Nice one Burbler,

Ive got the plastic coops hydrometer so I'll use again for now as it did fine first time round. I'll buy that one off Amazon so cheers for the tip...

Now to study Ian's spreadsheet..

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Yeah I bought the hydro and got an Inkbird temp controller and hence got free freight...

Which was good to try to keep costs down...

and it arrived about 5 minutes later.. 

They Hydro has also got a nice little bottle brush which can be swung over to give upper parts of bottles a spruce up.

And honestly... is such a joy to use.  My plazzi cylinder has a severe left hook in it and so the hydro - which always read over - would stick to the cylinder side... 

It is really nice to have one that works... but just take care as the glass is majorly thing and fragile... I mean if your Coops Plazzi Hydro works... maybe it is fine?

 

Re the comment wrt the Inkbird - Temp Control is the business...

Think in Bris you would be more so looking at a Fridge (10-12 for Lagers/18 for Ales)... and in the depths of winter for an Ale (18-22 deg C) maybe a heat belt or heat pad...

But the Inkbird is also a nice bit of kit.   My first Mangrove Jack controller was more expensive and I think is more fragile.

Anyway... onwards and upwards and good brewing.

 

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17 minutes ago, Bearded Burbler said:

Yeah I bought the hydro and got an Inkbird temp controller and hence got free freight...

Which was good to try to keep costs down...

and it arrived about 5 minutes later.. 

They Hydro has also got a nice little bottle brush which can be swung over to give upper parts of bottles a spruce up.

And honestly... is such a joy to use.  My plazzi cylinder has a severe left hook in it and so the hydro - which always read over - would stick to the cylinder side... 

It is really nice to have one that works... but just take care as the glass is majorly thing and fragile... I mean if your Coops Plazzi Hydro works... maybe it is fine?

 

Re the comment wrt the Inkbird - Temp Control is the business...

Think in Bris you would be more so looking at a Fridge (10-12 for Lagers/18 for Ales)... and in the depths of winter for an Ale (18-22 deg C) maybe a heat belt or heat pad...

But the Inkbird is also a nice bit of kit.   My first Mangrove Jack controller was more expensive and I think is more fragile.

Anyway... onwards and upwards and good brewing.

 

I'm going to leave the fermenter over night topped with water and see what the temp reads so I'll know what it will be when it comes to brew time.  Room temp here now in winter is about 15 at night I reckon but I'll see when I gage the temp. Heat belt might be required or might be lucky and need nothing apart from a few cosy towels!!

 

 

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