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Redish IPA recipe??? Maybe?


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Howdy, I’ve got some specialty grains and a tin of Amber malt Laying about and wanted to use em up before I get any more.  I’ve just punched the info into ianH to see what it will give me. Critiques please. I’ve never made something from scratch. Hops can be changed as I don’t actually have them yet, was just basing it off a red ipa.

ferment vol 20L

amber malt tin- 1.5kg

unhopped pale malt tin- 1.5

CaraRed- 450g

light Crystal- 250g

dex- 400g

15g centennial 60min

5g simcoe 60min

15g centennial 15min

15g simcoe 15min

20g (each) centennial, simcoe, cascade Dry hop

2x us05

og 1.059

fg 1.013

IBU 48

abv 6.5 in the bottle

 

 

 

 

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When Ive built recipes been told on here to match the IBU with the OG, you have 48 vs 59 so need to bitter it up some more,

try & see if this is enough;-

20g centennial 60min

15g simcoe 60min

10g centennial 15min

5g simcoe 15min

or just increase the 60min amounts & leave the 15mins as you have them, justh tweak the amounts in the builder to get closer to IBU 59.

Why would you need to use 2x yeast in a 20L batch, 1 should be plenty.

Edited by Mikes15
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More yeast is required with a higher OG but depending on the size of the yeast packet, being a 20 litre batch size you'll probably get away with one packet rehydrated. US-05 packages are 11.5g so somewhat more than the kit yeasts. However, there is nothing wrong with using two packs if you want to. 

Too much crystal in it though, I'd be dropping the carared and using some pale extract in its place. The amber extract already has crystal malt. 

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3 hours ago, Mikes15 said:

When Ive built recipes been told on here to match the IBU with the OG, you have 48 vs 59 so need to bitter it up some more,

try & see if this is enough;-

20g centennial 60min

15g simcoe 60min

10g centennial 15min

5g simcoe 15min

or just increase the 60min amounts & leave the 15mins as you have them, justh tweak the amounts in the builder to get closer to IBU 59.

Why would you need to use 2x yeast in a 20L batch, 1 should be plenty.

Cheers mate. Adjusted to 20 & 10 g for 60. IBU is now 58

i thought I read somewhere that if your starting gravity is up the higher end of 50, more yeast is preferable?

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1 hour ago, MitchBastard said:

Cheers mate. Adjusted to 20 & 10 g for 60. IBU is now 58

i thought I read somewhere that if your starting gravity is up the higher end of 50, more yeast is preferable?

Not familiar with that until now, or Ive read & forgotten it 🤣

PS- I always re hydrate my yeasts, as such,

10mls of boiled water (@ 38'C for S-05) per Gram of yeast, in a clean bowl that sits in a larger bowl with more hot water in so its floating (to keep the temp up),

Pitch the yeast into the water, dont stir, sit covered for 15mins,

Stir, cover & rest for another 15mins, it should foam up nicely,

Slowly drain some wort into the yeast, stirring or swirling to equalize the temp's,

Pitch & stir into the FV,

Prob some will say over kill but its free & easy to do.

Edited by Mikes15
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I'd just ditch the carared. Use some LDM in its place maybe. 

I haven't done a red IPA before but I did do a "normal" one a few years ago. Followed the 1:1 BU:GU thing but unfortunately too many of the IBUs came from late additions and it ended up not having enough firm bitterness. Whenever I do another one I'll be having at least ⅔ of the IBUs from long boiled additions. 

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10 hours ago, Beer Baron said:

Fermentis say rehydrating is not necessary now and it’s easier to cut open a packet and turn it upside down😂

Some people say brewing your own beer is not necessary now & its easier to open a craft beer & turn it upside down ,,,,,,, ☺️☺️

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Agreed with BB there, turf it. IPA shouldn't be loaded up with crystal or Cara grains. It just makes them overly sweet. I suspect that might have been what I didn't like about some strong IPAs I tried a few years ago. Sure, they were bitter and hoppy, but they pretty much all had this crappy cloying sweetness. Not very enjoyable beers. 

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