Beerlust Posted March 22, 2019 Share Posted March 22, 2019 Hi guys. There has been a bit of discussion & conjecture recently about the affect of dry hopping at different temperatures. I have always advocated dry hopping at warmer temps, & here is why... https://spikebrewing.com/blogs/ask-a-pro/dry-hop-temperatures Cheers, Lusty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Captain!! Posted March 22, 2019 Share Posted March 22, 2019 Good link Lusty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MitchellScott Posted March 22, 2019 Share Posted March 22, 2019 14 minutes ago, Beerlust said: Hi guys. There has been a bit of discussion & conjecture recently about the affect of dry hopping at different temperatures. I have always advocated dry hopping at warmer temps, & here is why... https://spikebrewing.com/blogs/ask-a-pro/dry-hop-temperatures Cheers, Lusty. Interesting... I just bottled my S&W clone Pacific Ale, dry hopped and left at 18C for one day then cold crashed it with the hops in for 4 days (in the FV). The only way to get away from that I guess is to dry hop, then remove the hops before cold crashing? But then you obviously run the risk of infection or oxidation when removing the hops. The other option is no cold crash and just dry hop at 18C then straight into the bottle after 4-5 days of hopping. Can't think of any other way without moving into a secondary vessel to cold crash. Might be something to test in the future :). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beerlust Posted March 22, 2019 Author Share Posted March 22, 2019 13 minutes ago, MitchellScott said: The only way to get away from that I guess is to dry hop, then remove the hops before cold crashing? That's why I contain them, so they can be removed before cold crash. 13 minutes ago, MitchellScott said: ...But then you obviously run the risk of infection or oxidation when removing the hops. Infection is very unlikely. At the hop removal stage it is no longer wort, it is beer with alcohol in it. Alcohol in itself is a protector against infection(s). I've only ever heard of an increased risk of infection with light (low alcohol) beers & even then that is very slight. Oxidation would only be an issue if you faff around with the lid of your fermenter open for ages while removing the hops. Cheers & good brewing, Lusty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Captain!! Posted March 22, 2019 Share Posted March 22, 2019 Think I’m going to have to experiment a little more with my dry hopping schedule. Food for thought. Now that I know a little bit more about what I like. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MitchellScott Posted March 22, 2019 Share Posted March 22, 2019 6 minutes ago, Beerlust said: That's why I contain them, so they can be removed before cold crash. Infection is very unlikely. At the hop removal stage it is no longer wort, it is beer with alcohol in it. Alcohol in itself is a protector against infection(s). I've only ever heard of an increased risk of infection with light (low alcohol) beers & even then that is very slight. Oxidation would only be an issue if you faff around with the lid of your fermenter open for ages while removing the hops. Cheers & good brewing, Lusty. Yeah I use a hop sock generally so they are contained. Do you fish the sock out with some sterilised tongs or something? Cheers, Mitch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChristinaS1 Posted March 22, 2019 Share Posted March 22, 2019 1 hour ago, Beerlust said: Hi guys. There has been a bit of discussion & conjecture recently about the affect of dry hopping at different temperatures. I have always advocated dry hopping at warmer temps, & here is why... https://spikebrewing.com/blogs/ask-a-pro/dry-hop-temperatures Cheers, Lusty. Thanks for the link Lusty. I appreciate it. I guess my current experiment of cold crash in two stages (13C for 2 days, followed by 0.5C for 5 days = 7 days) will be the first and last time I use the technique. Since I want to continue to dry hop commando style, I may be best off going back to my usual practice of dry hopping at fermentation temperature for 2 days, then dropping directly to near freezing temperatures. I have experimented a little with decreasing the CC time to three days, or five days, instead of seven. Three days was not long enough for the hops to settle. IIRC five days was not to bad, but not as good as seven. I would be interested to hear from other commando dry hoppers out there: what is the shortest CC time you find to be effective in terms of getting the hops to settle? I have considered fining with gelatin, but have not tried it so far. I could try it on a batch I don't intend to collect slurry from....If I want to both collect slurry and use gelatin I could rack to secondary for dry hopping and fining, and collect yeast from the primary. But as I rack before bottling, I doubt I will ever do that; I want to avoid racking a second time. Thanks, Christina. PS Or maybe I should try containing my dry hops in something. LOL! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lab Cat Posted March 22, 2019 Share Posted March 22, 2019 1 hour ago, MitchellScott said: Yeah I use a hop sock generally so they are contained. Do you fish the sock out with some sterilised tongs or something? Cheers, Mitch. Clean hands. Good sanitation is important at the beginning, but you don't need to overthink it. Temp controlled dry hopping is all well and good for pro/commercial outfits that need to experiment and produce consistent beers for sale, but yeah nah, I CBF... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Titan Posted March 22, 2019 Share Posted March 22, 2019 14 minutes ago, Lab Rat said: Good sanitation is important at the beginning, but you don't need to overthink it. Its 100% important at every stage of the process. If you get an infection they can be a bastard to get rid of. A CBF attitude will lead eventually to lawn fertiliser and much hair pulling in subsequent batches, where did it go wrong? My advice, dont take shortcuts. If your gut feel says this isn't right, then it probably isn't. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lab Cat Posted March 22, 2019 Share Posted March 22, 2019 There's doing things right, and then there's using tongs to take out a hop bag and generally obsessing over stuff. Give me a break. I squeeze the bag to get the hop juice out as well. I haven't had a beer go bad yet. Probably because I don't obsess and bugger about with things. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otto Von Blotto Posted March 22, 2019 Share Posted March 22, 2019 Post fermentation finings are useless for dropping out visible hop matter. Their purpose is to drop yeast, and nothing else. Other post fermentation products that drop out things like proteins or polyphenols to eliminate chill haze aren't considered finings, but rather processing agents. These products also don't speed up the settlement of visible hop matter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greenyinthewestofsydney Posted March 22, 2019 Share Posted March 22, 2019 “In general, when you dry hop below 50°F, the hop flavors you will obtain will be more grassy, woody, or vegetal than the warmer temperature dry hop temperatures. In particular, this will occur if you leave a bag of hops dry hopping in a cold keg for a long time” How long is a long time? keg hopped quite a few times and left them in there for 2 months or so. Never an issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joolbag Posted March 22, 2019 Share Posted March 22, 2019 8 hours ago, MitchellScott said: Do you fish the sock out with some sterilised tongs or something? I tie a length of fishing line (monofilament) to me hop socks so I literally “fish” them out before CC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shamus O'Sean Posted March 23, 2019 Share Posted March 23, 2019 14 hours ago, MitchellScott said: Yeah I use a hop sock generally so they are contained. Do you fish the sock out with some sterilised tongs or something? Cheers, Mitch. I use chux cloths for my dry hopping. Even with a sanitised shot glass as a weight, they still finish up on the surface. I then use non-powdered food handling gloves, put them on, spray with sanitiser, rub together like washing your hands and then rinse with spray sanitiser. Then fish out the chux cloths and squeeze out the hoppy goodness. Also tie a length of fishing line to each chux cloth like @joolbag just in case they stay sunk. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChristinaS1 Posted March 23, 2019 Share Posted March 23, 2019 I bought a pair of ladies anklet stockings which I will be using next time, with some monofilament as a drawstring, and to fish them out. These things are ridiculous. I can't believe women wear them! They are just flimsy, disposable socks.... Cheers, Christina. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackSands Posted March 23, 2019 Share Posted March 23, 2019 On 3/22/2019 at 11:17 PM, ChristinaS1 said: Thanks for the link Lusty. I appreciate it. I guess my current experiment of cold crash in two stages (13C for 2 days, followed by 0.5C for 5 days = 7 days) will be the first and last time I use the technique. Since I want to continue to dry hop commando style, I may be best off going back to my usual practice of dry hopping at fermentation temperature for 2 days, then dropping directly to near freezing temperatures. I have experimented a little with decreasing the CC time to three days, or five days, instead of seven. Three days was not long enough for the hops to settle. IIRC five days was not to bad, but not as good as seven. I would be interested to hear from other commando dry hoppers out there: what is the shortest CC time you find to be effective in terms of getting the hops to settle? I have considered fining with gelatin, but have not tried it so far. I could try it on a batch I don't intend to collect slurry from....If I want to both collect slurry and use gelatin I could rack to secondary for dry hopping and fining, and collect yeast from the primary. But as I rack before bottling, I doubt I will ever do that; I want to avoid racking a second time. Thanks, Christina. PS Or maybe I should try containing my dry hops in something. LOL! I'd convinced myself that commando dry hopping was the way to go. Then brulosophy.com did a trial that suggested there was actually no difference. Maybe my confirmation bias, which I'm sure is a common issue, was clouding my objectivity! I fine with gelatine at room temperature and two days later I've had a commando dry-hopped beer go into bottles looking pretty darn clear...and after a day or two in bottles it's totally clear. Gelatine even at room temp seems to have had a significant impact on the speed in which the beer clarifies, and the amount of sediment I see in the bottles is much reduced though there are often hop 'floaties' present which I don't like for purely asthetic reasons. Given the brulosophy result and the 'floaties' issue I've since gone back to bagging the hops - loosely. I dry hop at whatever ambient temp is at the time! Oh, and... Ive also reused the slurry from a commando dry-hopped gelatine clarified brew without issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Captain!! Posted March 23, 2019 Share Posted March 23, 2019 13 hours ago, ChristinaS1 said: These things are ridiculous. I can't believe women wear them! They are just flimsy, disposable socks.... There are lots of things that ladies wear (including my wife) that I find ridiculous ha ha ha. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otto Von Blotto Posted March 24, 2019 Share Posted March 24, 2019 Blacksands that backs up my point about finings not working on hop matter. The gelatine dropped the yeast but not the hop matter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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