AlanT58 Posted March 24, 2019 Author Share Posted March 24, 2019 5 hours ago, Otto Von Blotto said: I wish craftbrewer was local to me, about 45-50 minutes each way instead Stirring the wort will help aerate it but not as much as tipping it from a cube, which again is not as much as injecting pure oxygen. But doing nothing isn't a great idea. During the week ill head to cannon hill and see if they have a comparable kit. Guess im lucky im at wynnum, in between a few good shops. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otto Von Blotto Posted March 24, 2019 Share Posted March 24, 2019 Yeah I've been there once or twice too. Not sure if they stock crown urns though. I usually wait until I need a few different things before I go to Capalaba so it's actually worth the drive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
karlos_1984 Posted March 25, 2019 Share Posted March 25, 2019 On 3/24/2019 at 3:32 AM, Worthog said: The only issue I see is aeration of the wort just prior to yeast addition. When I cube, the wort is later aerated through a sieve when added to the FV. Otherwise the boil leaves the wort lacking oxygen which the yeast needs to thrive. Cheers If I boil the wort up, then pour thru a strainer into my round 25 ltr drum/FV, then surely this would aerate it enough. It would only sit in there for about 24 hours whilst in my fridge set to 18 degrees to allow the wort temp to drop and then pitching. If need be I could stir it Up just prior to pitching. I can't see any issues doing this if it's only a day to get it chilled down to pitching temp in the same vessel as what it'll be fermented in... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otto Von Blotto Posted March 25, 2019 Share Posted March 25, 2019 Oxygen won't dissolve into it anywhere near as effectively at near boiling as it does at fermentation temp. The uptake would probably be close to, if not zero actually. That's the issue. I'd transfer it without the strainer and just stir the crap out of it before the yeast goes in, or put use a whisk with a power drill to churn it up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otto Von Blotto Posted March 25, 2019 Share Posted March 25, 2019 There is also debate as to whether or not splashing hot wort around causes problems with the beer later on (flavour wise). I don't know if it does or not but I minimise any splashing of hot wort. Better to be on the safe side. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
karlos_1984 Posted March 25, 2019 Share Posted March 25, 2019 I thought it was more when it had been cold crashed that splashing was no good. I can't really avoid it as I'll be using a big W 19 ltr pot that doesn't have a tap or valve on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Worthog Posted March 25, 2019 Share Posted March 25, 2019 32 minutes ago, karlos_1984 said: I thought it was more when it had been cold crashed that splashing was no good. I can't really avoid it as I'll be using a big W 19 ltr pot that doesn't have a tap or valve on Cold Crash is post ferment, when you drop the FV temp to 0-1c. After boil, just tip it through a funnel into cube. Or siphon. No need to splash. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
karlos_1984 Posted March 25, 2019 Share Posted March 25, 2019 Yeah I know what cold crash is I've done it heaps of times. But what I'm saying is that I've heard splashing the beer after cold crashing causes issues. Never heard splashing while the wort is still hot being a problem. But I'll take it on board. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otto Von Blotto Posted March 25, 2019 Share Posted March 25, 2019 They're different types of problems but like I said it's debated whether hot side aeration is a thing or not, unlike post fermentation oxidation (not necessarily post cold crash) which is universally accepted. If it does cause problems, preventing splashing reduces or eliminates the potential for problems, if it doesn't then you're still gonna get good beer anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
karlos_1984 Posted March 25, 2019 Share Posted March 25, 2019 Yeah fair enough. I'll boil it up, transfer with the strainer (just to remove the hop matter) then sit the sealed fv in the fridge set to 18 to cool it overnight. Once it's reached pitching temp I'll just grab my big spoon, spray it with star San and stir the crap out of it for a few minutes and then pitch it, she'll be right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otto Von Blotto Posted March 25, 2019 Share Posted March 25, 2019 I guess that'll give some idea if hot side aeration is a thing. Tipping it through a funnel or a strainer or whatever from above will introduce oxygen even if it doesn't actually stay in the wort. It'll still splash into the fermenter. The only way to prevent it is by using a hose into the bottom of the receiving container either by way of siphoning or connected to a tap/valve on the pot. However, your setup currently doesn't allow that unfortunately so I understand the situation. Will be interested to hear how it turns out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hairy Posted March 26, 2019 Share Posted March 26, 2019 9 hours ago, Otto Von Blotto said: I guess that'll give some idea if hot side aeration is a thing. I thought it has already been proven not to be a thing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beer Baron Posted March 26, 2019 Share Posted March 26, 2019 28 minutes ago, Hairy said: I thought it has already been proven not to be a thing. I remember Brülosophy doing an experiment on hot side aeration and I think there results proved insignificant Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Captain!! Posted March 26, 2019 Share Posted March 26, 2019 Isn’t what this low/no oxygen brewing is all about? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otto Von Blotto Posted March 26, 2019 Share Posted March 26, 2019 I take brulosophy with a grain of salt. Just about everything they do proves insignificant. Taken literally you could do everything terribly and still wind up with a beer of equal quality as you would if you did everything properly. It's still being debated in various places. I don't think anyone has a definitive answer either way yet. It's little effort to avoid in any case. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otto Von Blotto Posted March 26, 2019 Share Posted March 26, 2019 1 minute ago, The Captain!! said: Isn’t what this low/no oxygen brewing is all about? In that practice they actually deoxygenate the brewing water before the mash is even done, then prevent any getting back in through the process. However, I believe they still oxygenate the wort at yeast pitching time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Captain!! Posted March 26, 2019 Share Posted March 26, 2019 26 minutes ago, Otto Von Blotto said: In that practice they actually deoxygenate the brewing water before the mash is even done, then prevent any getting back in through the process. However, I believe they still oxygenate the wort at yeast pitching time. Yeah that’s my understanding as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
karlos_1984 Posted March 26, 2019 Share Posted March 26, 2019 Brewed it up. Sat the pot straight into my chest freezer after adding FO hops and doing a whirlpool. Was in the freezer for an hour and I dropped 2 blocks of ice from sanitised Tupperware containers into the wort. Only dropped the temp of the wort to about 60 degrees so I just strained it into my FV and it's been in the fridge since about 3pm this afternoon. It's still at 28 degrees as of 9:30pm so I'll give it a good stir up and pitch yeast in the morning once it's down to 18 degrees. See what happens... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlanT58 Posted March 26, 2019 Author Share Posted March 26, 2019 (edited) just been reading some science stuff and it says the lower the temp the more oxygen will be absorbed. so i guess stirring and splashing at higher temps is pointless Edited March 26, 2019 by AlanT58 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlanT58 Posted March 26, 2019 Author Share Posted March 26, 2019 maybe usless info but water is at its most dense at 4 degrees C Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otto Von Blotto Posted March 26, 2019 Share Posted March 26, 2019 That is correct. Same with CO2, and pretty much any other gas that can be dissolved as far as I know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WildIslandBrewer Posted April 21, 2019 Share Posted April 21, 2019 Put a real AG brew through my 1/2 batch DIY kettle and it went brilliantly. The $7.90 KMart jug heater element is too powerful, boiling up a real volcano. That also made mash control a bit iffy but found with the lid on it held the temp fine with minimal attention. My end game is to run it all on CraftBrewPI so I'll be able to temp control the mash a bit easier and I'll be able to control the boil max power. Still a small leak around the earthing bolt - I'll hi-temp silicone that. All up I'm pretty happy with it. Next up is to drill it for the thermowell then build the CraftBrewPI controller - gonna be a touchscreen beauty! The batch was an Irish Stout. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elLachlano Posted April 21, 2019 Share Posted April 21, 2019 18 minutes ago, WildIslandBrewer said: Put a real AG brew through my 1/2 batch DIY kettle and it went brilliantly. The $7.90 KMart jug heater element is too powerful, boiling up a real volcano. That also made mash control a bit iffy but found with the lid on it held the temp fine with minimal attention. Watching this keenly. Please report back your process. I reckon a cheap 1/2 batch setup would go nicely further down the track. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marty_G Posted April 22, 2019 Share Posted April 22, 2019 Fascinating stuff .... I am also considering moving to BIAB ... just a few questions .... wort volume .... how is it regulated, I get there would be a grain to water ratio, if wort of say 20-25 litres is needed what volume urn is best .... when transferring the wort to a cube what volume is left in the urn if any ... and time while i am not time poor how long does it take to get from set up to pitching not including the over night cooling if using cubes ... so basically how long from set up to to cubing ... I have watched some YouTube clips so get the general idea and seem relatively simple ... and lastly after intial set up cost how much does it cost ball park figure to make a say brew which will give 60 stubbs so around 23-25ltrs ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greenyinthewestofsydney Posted April 22, 2019 Share Posted April 22, 2019 35 minutes ago, MartyG1525230263 said: Fascinating stuff .... I am also considering moving to BIAB ... just a few questions .... wort volume .... how is it regulated, I get there would be a grain to water ratio, if wort of say 20-25 litres is needed what volume urn is best .... when transferring the wort to a cube what volume is left in the urn if any ... and time while i am not time poor how long does it take to get from set up to pitching not including the over night cooling if using cubes ... so basically how long from set up to to cubing ... I have watched some YouTube clips so get the general idea and seem relatively simple ... and lastly after intial set up cost how much does it cost ball park figure to make a say brew which will give 60 stubbs so around 23-25ltrs ... Hey marty To get 20-25lt of wort you need an urn of 30-35. About 10lt space is enough for grain absorbtion and boil off. The longer you boil the more you need as thats where you lose the most. Saying that its ok to top up with water as well when you ferment. How long does it take? You can do it quicker but about 4 hours on average. Total time being there and doing things. About 30-45 mins. The rest of the time you can do other things in your house. About 1lt is left in my urn when ifinish a batch. Its all the crap you dont want in your fermenter. To make a brew of 23 litres. Anywhere from say 14 dollars to lots. Hops are the most expensive part so the more hops the more $$. An asian lager with 75% barley and 25% rice with minimal hop flavour is probably the cheapest batch you can get. 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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