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New Brew - Hop Tea


DonPolo

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I don't really make them, not separately anyway. Being all grain, the entire wort is boiled so for beers with a hoppy flavour/aroma I use reasonable late boil, flameout and cube additions (the latter two are basically like a hop tea), then a decent dry hop after fermentation. I'm also gonna try keg hopping with the one in the fermenter currently, when it is kegged. 

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12 minutes ago, Otto Von Blotto said:

I don't really make them, not separately anyway. Being all grain, the entire wort is boiled so for beers with a hoppy flavour/aroma I use reasonable late boil, flameout and cube additions (the latter two are basically like a hop tea), then a decent dry hop after fermentation. I'm also gonna try keg hopping with the one in the fermenter currently, when it is kegged. 

I have used them for AG brews. They can add a little punch if you need it.

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16 hours ago, MartyG1525230263 said:

just with hop teas ... I use a coffee plunger for the steep and it works a treat .... does anyone use a different method ... 

Yeah the article I posted also mentioned using a coffee plunger. I might try that. Any views on the post - fermentation hop tea additions?

Some comments here say that if it is a tea it shouldn't add significantly to the bitterness. I guess if you wanted more bitterness you could always boil the hops and the water a bit.

And if it seems that if you steep the hops in water that isn't too hot you may retain at least some of the oils. Nevertheless some people say that dry hopping only has a limited life.

I'm afraid I'm a little confused about the flavour/aroma/bitterness discussions involving hop additions. Bitterness is an aspect of flavour normally in foods but I think I get what people are talking about. Normally aroma, say in wine tasting, gives you an appreciation of the liquid which is later confirmed/enhanced by tasting that liquid.

So in the case of a post - fermentation addition, is this an opportunity to add some flavour, particularly after tasting a SG sample.

If so, I guess you would want to make the addition and wait a day or two for the brew to settle a bit before bottling.

Speaking of which, if I brewed at 18 degrees would allowing the brew to come up a few degrees assist in 'the yeast cleaning up' or is that only something you do if you are cold crashing?

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21 hours ago, Otto Von Blotto said:

Raising the brew temp near the end can be done with or without cold crashing afterwards.

So raising temp just before/after fermentation is finished? Any rule of thumb temp for an Australian Pale Ale fermented at around 18C?

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12 minutes ago, Otto Von Blotto said:

I usually raise it after 3 or 4 days when the SG is around the 1.020 mark. This is why I take the mid ferment readings 3 days after pitching, so I can see where it's at and whether or not to raise the temp then or wait another day.

Thanks!

So approx temp for my pale ale fermented at 18C?

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Interestingly I had tested the brew after 5 days at 18 degrees and seeing no signs of fermentation.  It came up as 1015 but IanH's spreadsheet predicted 1010 as the FG. Therefore, yesterday morning I let the water out of the sink and let the temperature rise. It is now reading 22C (thermometer on the side of the FV) and I can see small bubbles rising up if I stare at the surface long enough. Obviously it still has time to go.

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So day 7 and still little bits of white stuff popping to the surface and the odd little bubble. 

I've never inspected the surface this closely before so for all I know this is normal even after fermentation has ceased.

I guess I'll test the SG again today but I was wondering if that is worth doing if there are still the signs above.

Any views?

P.S. I don't want to do too much testing because to be honest with a 11L batch in the craft fermenter, what with rinsing the hydrometer tube out first with brew then taking the reading, I don't want to waste too much beer!

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2 minutes ago, Titan said:

Take the sample but dont throw it away. Leave on the bench and check it again tomorrow. If its the same its done. As the trub settles and compacts it can release pockets of trapped co2.

Wow this is the first time I've heard of this method.

Are you saying that if the sample is not done that it will continue to ferment on the counter and likely be lower the next day?

This could change my whole method of brewing!

If I did this would I take the hydrometer out of the sample or just leave it there? I'm thinking that I would have to take it out, rinse it and cover the tube.

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