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Newbie to brewing questions and advice :)


MitchellScott

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Hi all.

Names Mitch and I am a total newbie to the forum and brewing. Got a Coopers Craft Beer Kit for Christmas and about 3 days ago followed the instructions on the DVD with the kit and the brew has been in the FV since then.

I have been doing a bit of searching and research through the forums but had a few questions I'd like to get clarification on if possible.

The DVD didn't mention heating the extract or mixing it with water once it is in the FV. After I added the yeast most of my extract was sitting on the bottom due to this. I found another topic on this forum covering a similar question and most members said that this is not a worry and the yeast will get through it. Before I left work today I checked the FV and the level has certainly dropped but there is still some on the bottom of the FV. I am hoping the yeast will get through it all.
Am I best to give the extract/water a good stir before I do my next batch? Seems like the best way to do it and also would add some air/oxygen into the brew which most people say is a good thing.

I have found contradicting advice both on the forums and on the internet regarding the time the brew spends in the FV and in the bottles. The kit comes with the Bewitched Amber Ale. What are your recommendations for FV time and bottle time? The DVD says around 6-7 days to start checking the FG, but on some places I have seen people saying to leave it in for up to 2 weeks in the FV? What is best?

The other question I have is regarding temp... As most of us Aussies would, I am struggling with the temp a little. When I added the yeast the temp was right on 22C which was pretty much perfect according to the DVD (21-27C but the closer to 21C the better) however on day 2 it did climb to about 26C. I have researched and found the the Coopers Kits use Ale yeast which does better with warmer weather. Do you think this would be okay? At the moment I am using a wet towel and a fan to try and keep the temp in the low 20's and before I left work the temp was about 23C so it seems to be helping, however, a fridge and temp control is definitely something I need to look at in the future.

The only other thing I am wondering is if anyone has done any changes to the Bewitched Amber Ale (e.g adding ingredients etc) to make a slightly different brew, and if so, what did you use? I'd be keen to try some different recipes in the future :).

Thanks in advance and happy brewing 🙂

Cheers!

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Hi Mitch, welcome to the forum. I can't help with the last question because I've never made this kit, I think that smaller version came out a couple of years after I made the move to all grain brewing. It didn't exist when I first started with kits.

Anyway, yes the yeast will get through it all. You can stir it at the start if you want to, it won't do any harm. As noted it will introduce a bit of oxygen. I wouldn't stir this batch now though.

The beer only needs to stay in the fermenter until 3-4 days after it reaches FG. This could be 8 days or 10 or 12 days. Just depends on how long it takes to ferment. Ales really should be at FG in 7 days or less, so you could be bottling it at around the 10-11 day mark. I usually take an SG sample after 3 days, then leave it sitting there with the hydrometer in it until it stops dropping. Then I go and test the batch properly, taking one reading then another one two days later. Those two readings are normally after 6/7 days and 8/9 days. 

I would try to keep the temp down around 20 degrees, or even 18 degrees for a really clean flavour. Mid 20s you'll get some fruity flavours, not all of them nice ones.

 

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2 minutes ago, Otto Von Blotto said:

Hi Mitch, welcome to the forum. I can't help with the last question because I've never made this kit, I think that smaller version came out a couple of years after I made the move to all grain brewing. It didn't exist when I first started with kits.

Anyway, yes the yeast will get through it all. You can stir it at the start if you want to, it won't do any harm. As noted it will introduce a bit of oxygen. I wouldn't stir this batch now though.

The beer only needs to stay in the fermenter until 3-4 days after it reaches FG. This could be 8 days or 10 or 12 days. Just depends on how long it takes to ferment. Ales really should be at FG in 7 days or less, so you could be bottling it at around the 10-11 day mark. I usually take an SG sample after 3 days, then leave it sitting there with the hydrometer in it until it stops dropping. Then I go and test the batch properly, taking one reading then another one two days later. Those two readings are normally after 6/7 days and 8/9 days. 

I would try to keep the temp down around 20 degrees, or even 18 degrees for a really clean flavour. Mid 20s you'll get some fruity flavours, not all of them nice ones.

 

Awesome thanks for the advice! Definitely looks like I'll have to get a fridge and temp controller for some nicer tasting beer then.

I will get a FG reading out on day 6 and another on day 8 and so on from there. As most people say the first brew isn't always the best so if its drinkable I'll be a happy man hahaha :).

Another question, the PET bottles after being used I'm guessing will need to be sanitized in bleach/coopers cleaner the same as the brewing gear? I have read the cleaning and sanitation is the number one rule when it comes to brewing so will be sure to clean everything properly.

Cheers for the help!

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Hey Mitch,

I finished my first Craft Brew - The amber ale - a few weeks ago. I highly recommend leaving it in primary fermentation for 12 days minimum - as you said the first homebrew isnt the best and I found some of my bottles developed a funny Vegemite/yeast flavour to it, so best let all the yeast settle. The 15L fermenter will fit in almost any bar fridge which is really handy and you can either make a cheap temp controller or buy one off ebay. I actually use the "craft" fermenter more than the 35L one in summer as it is much easier to keep cool and fits in the small bar fridge. Yes you do need to sanitize your bottles - I normally leave them in a sink of warm/hot water with a cap or two of household bleach, then rinse thoroughly in warm water afterwards. Be careful though as water too hot will deform or compromise the integrity of the bottle and can result in an explosive brewing experience. Another piece of advice is to not scrub the fermenter too vigorously as you don't want to scratch or damage the plastic as these micro-gouges can hold brew ruining bacteria.

Good luck with the brew,

James

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Thanks for the tips James.
I am currently on the lookout for a little bar fridge and will probably combine it with a temp controller from Ebay for my next brew. My brew has been fermenting for 5 days now and when I checked it last night, the extract was almost all gone. Still a good amount of foam on the surface and you could still see fermentation taking place so will leave it for a few more days before taking readings.

One other thing that you guys may be able to shine some more light on though, I was looking at some reviews on the Mr. Beer cans to see which extract I will get next time, and the (what looks like US website) here: https://www.mrbeer.com/bewitched-amber-ale-craft-refill

There instructions are vastly different to the Coopers instructions but from what I can see, the extract is identical. Any info on this? Ill copy and paste their instructions below :).

  1. Remove the yeast packet from under the lid of the can of Brewing Extract, then place the unopened can in hot tap water.
  2. Using the measuring cup, pour 4 cups of water into your clean 3-quart or larger pot. Bring water to a boil, and then remove from heat. Open the can of Brewing Extract and pour it into the hot water. Stir until thoroughly mixed. This mixture of unfermented beer is called wort.
  3. Fill keg with cold tap water to the #1 (4-quart) mark on the back.
  4. Pour the wort into the keg, and then bring the volume of the keg to the #2 (8.5-quart) mark by adding more cold water. Stir vigorously with the spoon or whisk.
  5. Sprinkle the yeast packet into the keg, and screw on the lid. Do not stir.
  6. Put your keg in a location with a consistent temperature between 65° and 75° F (18.3°-23.8° C) and out of direct sunlight. After approximately 24 hours, you will be able to see the fermentation process happening by shining a flashlight into the keg. You'll see the yeast in action in the wort. The liquid will be opaque and milky, you will see bubbles rising in the liquid, and there will be bubbles on the surface.
  7. You’ll ferment for 21 days total. Your fermentation will usually reach its peak in 2 to 5 days (this is also known as “high krausen”). You may see a layer of foam on top of the wort, and sediment will accumulate at the bottom of the fermenter. This is totally normal. Complete fermentation will take approximately 2 weeks. After high krausen the foam and activity will subside and your batch will appear to be dormant. Your beer is still fermenting. The yeast is still at work slowly finishing the fermentation process.

 

Thanks again guys! Can't wait to try my first brew...

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Hey and Welcome!

I started with the same kit bout 4 months ago ?. Bewitched wasnt for me but when I started getting ROTM packs I enjoyed the process a lot more.

The craft kit is simple, and I think as they dont provide a spoon etc like they do in the bigger kit its why they dont mention stirring. I am on a brew hiatus at the moment due to the heat but keen to start again in March/April.

Like me if you get in to it you'll find yourself graduating to a bigger FV. The craft kit is good but is limited with the malt tins you can buy (and mostly just online)

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Only bottle if it's ready. Take gravity samples after 7 and 9 days, if they're the same then yeah, another day or two and into the bottles. If those two readings are different i.e. the second one lower than the first, then it'll need an extra day or two, so you'd be bottling around 12-13 days. Either way it's nowhere near 21.

I leave mine in the fermenter for 17-18 days but the last 7 of those days it sits at 0 degrees, what's known as a cold crash. I start the temp drop after the same 10ish days; if I wasn't doing that it'd go straight into a keg at that point. 

At the end of the day I find it more efficient to time everything based on how quickly or slowly it ferments rather than rigid timeframes. There's no point leaving it in the fermenter for 3 weeks if it reaches FG in 1. 😉

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3 hours ago, supernerdy said:

Hey and Welcome!

I started with the same kit bout 4 months ago ?. Bewitched wasnt for me but when I started getting ROTM packs I enjoyed the process a lot more.

The craft kit is simple, and I think as they dont provide a spoon etc like they do in the bigger kit its why they dont mention stirring. I am on a brew hiatus at the moment due to the heat but keen to start again in March/April.

Like me if you get in to it you'll find yourself graduating to a bigger FV. The craft kit is good but is limited with the malt tins you can buy (and mostly just online)

Thanks for the info :). Could I ask what you mean when you say ROTM packs?

I'm certain I'll get the brewing bug and upgrade to the 23L fermenter eventually and probably have both going to brew some lager in the 23L and craft brews in the 8.5L FV. I will most likely only use the 23L FV in winter though as I don't think I will have a big enough fridge to keep it in, whereas the craft kit FV is nice and small so will easily fit in a bar fridge.

 

1 hour ago, Otto Von Blotto said:

Only bottle if it's ready. Take gravity samples after 7 and 9 days, if they're the same then yeah, another day or two and into the bottles. If those two readings are different i.e. the second one lower than the first, then it'll need an extra day or two, so you'd be bottling around 12-13 days. Either way it's nowhere near 21.

I leave mine in the fermenter for 17-18 days but the last 7 of those days it sits at 0 degrees, what's known as a cold crash. I start the temp drop after the same 10ish days; if I wasn't doing that it'd go straight into a keg at that point. 

At the end of the day I find it more efficient to time everything based on how quickly or slowly it ferments rather than rigid timeframes. There's no point leaving it in the fermenter for 3 weeks if it reaches FG in 1. 😉

Yes I will check FG on day 7, then day 9 and if it is the same I will bottle on day 11.

I'll be a happy man if its drinkable. My luck has been typical... As soon as I dropped my brew we got a heatwave lol. I have had a wet towel over the brew the whole time and been wetting it every 12 hours and it has sat around 22-24C which I know is a little high but it's the best I can do at the moment. Considering the ambient temps are mid 30's the towel is doing well to keep temps down.

 

Cheers!

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It should be fine. 22-24 degrees is better than mid 30s. That sort of temp won't harm the yeast but it will result in some pretty awful flavors.

If you're like a lot of us you'll be looking for a bigger fridge to fit the 30L fermenter in. I'm getting a second fridge soon so I can have two fermenters going at once, and a third smaller fridge for storing kegs and curing meats.

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3 minutes ago, Otto Von Blotto said:

It should be fine. 22-24 degrees is better than mid 30s. That sort of temp won't harm the yeast but it will result in some pretty awful flavors.

If you're like a lot of us you'll be looking for a bigger fridge to fit the 30L fermenter in. I'm getting a second fridge soon so I can have two fermenters going at once, and a third smaller fridge for storing kegs and curing meats.

I'm still living at home so space is the biggest issue, otherwise I'd get a full size fridge with the 23L in the bottom and the 8.5L on the shelf in it.

We will see how we go, I might get luckly and find a bar fridge big enough to fit the 23L FV.

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1 hour ago, MitchellScott said:

I'm still living at home so space is the biggest issue, otherwise I'd get a full size fridge with the 23L in the bottom and the 8.5L on the shelf in it.

We will see how we go, I might get luckly and find a bar fridge big enough to fit the 23L FV.

It might be an issue for me too with the planned third fridge. The Mrs has no issues with the two brewing fridges because they're outside in their own space, but I'm not sure where I'll be able to put the one I want for keg storage 😂

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6 minutes ago, Otto Von Blotto said:

It might be an issue for me too with the planned third fridge. The Mrs has no issues with the two brewing fridges because they're outside in their own space, but I'm not sure where I'll be able to put the one I want for keg storage 😂

Get her into Beer then she will let you! Hahahhaa.

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16 hours ago, Otto Von Blotto said:

She likes pale ales and lagers but doesn't drink as much beer as I do. I'll figure something out, because the advantage is getting the meat curing out of the kitchen fridge. 

Fair enough... At least she drinks some beers. Mine hates it hahaha.

While I got you, question for you. My go to beer is generally a Carlton Dry/Super Dry. What coopers home brew do you think would get me the closest to that style of beer if I had the 23L fermenter?

Thanks mate 🙂

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Probably none of them, they all contain more bitterness than those dry beers, which to my palate taste like fizzy sugar water 😂.

You could probably get somewhere near it with a low bittered kit like the Mexican cerveza, probably half and half dry malt and dextrose with a dose of dry enzyme thrown in as well. 

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Got some good news... Did my first FG test on the brew last night and got a reading of 1004, will test it again tomorrow and if its the same will look at bottling very soon.

Had a small taste test, and it wasn't too bad! It smelt a little cidery but certainly tasted better then the smell.

I also managed to score a big fridge for $50 and have ordered a temp controller so the next brew will be temp controlled which should help a lot :). Could I ask your recommendations on heating devices to put in the fridge? I wont need one at the moment but certainly will once winter starts to roll around.

Cheers!

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