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Titan

It's Kegging Time 2019

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MMMMM sweet taste of success with the new kegarator. Finally a beer that is actually carbonated correctly.

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Kegged my Cashmere Kveik IPA today. She’ll be on the flow tomorrow night

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Posted (edited)

Just kegged my wheat beer and had a small taste. So far so good. Can certainly taste the banana esters. Looking forward to trying it at easter time.

Edited by Titan
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Hey G'day Keg Legends!

Got meself some dirty old second hand kegs - but with all new Liq and Gas posts and Lid rubber seals and new PRV.

But they are dirty inside from the syrup sitting in there for an age it seems -- They are old Softy Kegs. 

So I have started with a couple - washed them out - some boiling water - then a long soak in stiff solution of Hydrogen Peroxide and or Sodium Perc...

Hooked up a tap and flushed the Perc through the liquid post/offtake pipe... saw a Vid from some Lad who was using wool or twine to give that pipe a scrub internally as well...

I will have to find some twine to do that...

 

Any other good ideas just to get that keg as clean as can be prior to its first experience of having a sensible fluid inside it i.e. beer

Any suggestions would be welcome!

 

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Thinking about the 'stimulus' payment I realised I might be able to start kegging a lot sooner than I thought. I have a good fridge to use with room for maybe 6 kegs standing and a shelf above where they (or the CO2 cylinder) can lay down. I'm assuming here it does no harm to a brew to be on its side while waiting for consumption?

I'm getting a bit confused about all the options so wondering if you know of any good references that cover the basics, offer suggestions as to best practice, and explains the options. (like flow control taps etc.)

I could look at a pre-built system but I have this fridge sitting there - although if I mention it the missus might grab it to replace our kitchen fridge and I'd get that one. 😄 She's already hinted at as much...

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13 hours ago, Bearded Burbler said:

I will have to find some twine to do that...

Buy a pair of those thick long bootlaces, it should do the job.

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33 minutes ago, Journeyman said:

I have a good fridge to use with room for maybe 6 kegs standing and a shelf above where they (or the CO2 cylinder) can lay down. I'm assuming here it does no harm to a brew to be on its side while waiting for consumption?

Am interested also in answers to your questions JMan.

Just a quick thought - the kegs are like 205 to 225 in diameter... Suspect would have to be a big fridge if you think you can get six in there... and shut the door.  But it may be possible.

I only keep the kegs upright... only lay down to clean... (don't know if store on side is good - suspect not but unsure).  Also C02 on side... don't know if good or bad... be good to find out... I keep the gas bottles as upright as possible.

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The fridge cavity is 52(d) x 67(w) x 86(h) - the kegs I've seen sizes for are circa 21 cm diameter so 3 across and 2 deep should be fine.

I can't think of any reason a keg can't go on its side unless there's something about having liquid in contact with the valves or something. Maybe liquid pressure acts on the valve differently to air pressure?

CO2 could be an issue as it could put the liquid CO2 against the outlet instead of the gas.

I just measured the other fridge in case SWMBO commandeers mine... 46(d) x 48(w) x 91(h) - so looks like 4 kegs only with maybe room for the CO2? (not sure their dimensions. But then also not sure I'd want the CO2 inside the fridge anyway - decompressing gas chills the cylinder and colder CO2 would be less pressure etc. No kids to be concerned about.

The one thing I keep thinking about is a nice kegerator pre-built could fit nicely in the lounge area - a + for conveniencve but a - for the danger of drunkeness... 😄 

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Posted (edited)
3 hours ago, Journeyman said:

The one thing I keep thinking about is a nice kegerator pre-built could fit nicely in the lounge area

I am about to make my 4th keg fridge and I am an advocate for re-purposing a suitable fridge.  The one I am making is for my son. Once you kbow what you are doing can get it done in about 45 minutes. A new 2 tap kit with disconnects, line, taps with 90mm shanks, 2 lead gas manifold and clips is $105 delivered from Cheeky Peak. I have found them the best value. I get them to substitute in the CMB disconnects in place of the crap ones they have in the kits and it costs an extra $18.00 so all up $123.00. Good quality 2nd hand kegs are $50- $80 and the CO2 bottle and reg is anywhere from $120-$300 depending on bottle size and regulator quality.   Think the 1st bottle I bought was a full 6.9kg from KegLand on special for $79 and a $49.00 regulator.  But good quality regs like Harris can cost a couple of hundred new.     I scour Gumtree and Marketplace for second hand gear pick the eyes out of it then on sell what I don't want.  

Edited by MartyG1525230263
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49 minutes ago, MartyG1525230263 said:

I am about to make my 4th keg fridge and I am an advocate for re-purposing a suitable fridge.  The one I am making is for my son. Once you kbow what you are doing can get it done in about 45 minutes. A new 2 tap kit with disconnects, line, taps with 90mm shanks, 2 lead gas manifold and clips is $105 delivered from Cheeky Peak. I have found them the best value. I get them to substitute in the CMB disconnects in place of the crap ones they have in the kits and it costs an extra $18.00 so all up $123.00. Good quality 2nd hand kegs are $50- $80 and the CO2 bottle and reg is anywhere from $120-$300 depending on bottle size and regulator quality.   Think the 1st bottle I bought was a full 6.9kg from KegLand on special for $79 and a $49.00 regulator.  But good quality regs like Harris can cost a couple of hundred new.     I scour Gumtree and Marketplace for second hand gear pick the eyes out of it then on sell what I don't want.  

Thanks... And I already have an account on CPB - will head over and check it out. 😄

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Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, MartyG1525230263 said:

I am about to make my 4th keg fridge and I am an advocate for re-purposing a suitable fridge.  The one I am making is for my son. Once you kbow what you are doing can get it done in about 45 minutes. A new 2 tap kit with disconnects, line, taps with 90mm shanks, 2 lead gas manifold and clips is $105 delivered from Cheeky Peak. I have found them the best value. I get them to substitute in the CMB disconnects in place of the crap ones they have in the kits and it costs an extra $18.00 so all up $123.00. Good quality 2nd hand kegs are $50- $80 and the CO2 bottle and reg is anywhere from $120-$300 depending on bottle size and regulator quality.   Think the 1st bottle I bought was a full 6.9kg from KegLand on special for $79 and a $49.00 regulator.  But good quality regs like Harris can cost a couple of hundred new.     I scour Gumtree and Marketplace for second hand gear pick the eyes out of it then on sell what I don't want.  

How does this system look? Would you change/upgrade anything in it? Are those disconnects 'CMB'? 

https://cheekypeakbrewery.com.au/advanced-home-brewer-keg-pack-used-ball-lock-kegs-fridge-conversion-pack

I like the look of it because it gives me all I can conceivably need for now so I don't have to worry about adding to it because it isn't enough. The system allows carbing AND dispensing of 2 kegs each so it should be easy to always have kegs ready to go.

One question I haven't found an answer to... Once I carb up a keg, does it have to stay attached to the gas or can I simply disconnect and leave it until ready to tap it?

Edited by Journeyman

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Here's another Q... If SWMBO decides to take my upside down fridge, the taps on the current kitchen fridge will be low, realistically about 95 - 96 cms above floor level. I'm just wondering if there's hardware to bring the taps out of the fridge horizontally and then have like a font sticking out to lift them another 10+ cms or so? I'm thinking if there is I'd need a fan to keep the lines cold but that's minor.

I'd also not have an issue with having to open the fridge to get things out of the freezer door - figure it will only be like hops and grain in there anyway and I'm not real sure about the grain. I got some 20L buckets with airtight lids from B's so inside a cupboard in the man cave should keep grains fresh for more than long enough.

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Yeah I don't see any point keeping grains in the freezer, hops definitely though. My grains sit in buckets in the garden shed, except the big base malt ones that sit next to the second brew fridge in the patio. 

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1 hour ago, Journeyman said:

How does this system look? Would you change/upgrade anything in it? Are those disconnects 'CMB'? 

https://cheekypeakbrewery.com.au/advanced-home-brewer-keg-pack-used-ball-lock-kegs-fridge-conversion-pack

I like the look of it because it gives me all I can conceivably need for now so I don't have to worry about adding to it because it isn't enough. The system allows carbing AND dispensing of 2 kegs each so it should be easy to always have kegs ready to go.

One question I haven't found an answer to... Once I carb up a keg, does it have to stay attached to the gas or can I simply disconnect and leave it until ready to tap it?

The gas would absorb into the beer eventually if not in use, it wouldn’t go flat though.

I would leave the gas hooked up to it.
‘I keg my beers, sometimes don’t drink them for a while as I have a few kegs, so I fill the keg, purge through the PRV a few times with CO2 to release any oxygen in there, put a blanket of 40psi on top of the gas and I just leave them in my storage area until I’m ready to cool then gas them.

Cheers RD44 🍺🍺

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Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, Journeyman said:

How does this system look? Would you change/upgrade anything in it? Are those disconnects 'CMB'? 

Those disconnects do look like CMB. Now as paddybrews once remarked I am the communities tight A,  so I will not comment on price but it will do every thing you need. The good thing about fridge re-purposing is if the fridge messes up you ditch it and re-purpose a different one. However, there are many who are happy with the commercial bought set ups.  

Edited by MartyG1525230263
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39 minutes ago, MartyG1525230263 said:

Those disconnects do look like CMB. Now as paddybrews once remarked I am the communities tight A,  so I will not comment on price but it will do every thing you need. The good thing about fridge re-purposing is if the fridge messes up you ditch it and re-purpose a different one. However, there are many who are happy with the commercial bought set ups.  

I’m not, much happier with the keezer I built than my commercial one.

Just saying RD44

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22 minutes ago, Red devil 44 said:

I’m not, much happier with the keezer I built than my commercial one.

I thought i would throw it in for balance. I don't think i would ever go to a commercial set up.  I may do a keezer one day but very happy with my kegger. 

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2 hours ago, Otto Von Blotto said:

Yeah I don't see any point keeping grains in the freezer, hops definitely though. My grains sit in buckets in the garden shed, except the big base malt ones that sit next to the second brew fridge in the patio. 

Yeah am not sure about malted grain but certainly my rye grains, rye chops, flour, chickpeas and anything remotely edible is big target for the evil weevils it seems.

I took your @Otto Von Blotto advice Kelsey and got some water/brew sealed containers for my malt.

I think too there is the possibility in normal grain that the weevils come with the product - as eggs, young or adults.  Whereas maybe soaking and roasting the grain into malt gets rid of the rottten bbbbsss$#%^ds things so you might start clean and if you get your malted grain into well sealed containers you should be right.

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2 hours ago, Otto Von Blotto said:

Yeah I don't see any point keeping grains in the freezer, hops definitely though. My grains sit in buckets in the garden shed, except the big base malt ones that sit next to the second brew fridge in the patio. 

Does high shed temperatures impact the grain in any way

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1 hour ago, MartyG1525230263 said:

Those disconnects do look like CMB.

Yeah dunno whether you can go with a picture on the Web at the best of times @Journeyman as a surefire cert... but I might be wrong.

There's a comparison side by side with your ad and a liq disconn from CPB as well... pic down below.

Am pretty sure that CPB's base model disconnects are not CMB... but I could be wrong.  Just when have bought diconns off them I had to specifically ask for CMB which are a tad more expensive but a beautiful thing.

My cheaper disconns I started with seem to be going ok - but maybe after the 299th lock-unlock they might shitttt themselves and German Tech might do a few more...  which might have been avoided anyway by using keg lube?

One small thing - I think I would recommend the ss crimp fittings rather than those fancy push-on fittings as have heard of a few of those shittttting themselves brand new and people losing whole tanks of gas... guess that can happen with a faulty crimped fitting too but think that in general they are more robust... 

Just a few thoughts but there are far more keg qualified brewers on this site than I am fer sher.

 

image.png.b80867ce34217ea1b8e210e503faaaf4.png

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10 minutes ago, Beer Baron said:

Does high shed temperatures impact the grain in any way

I reckon that is a really good question BB1.

I have bought grain that was not real young - for a good price - off some good micro brewers - and their shed was like 40+ in summer - had been in there at least one summer.

The malt although over use by date was probably < 2years - and seemed fine - smelled and tasted nice to chew and made nice beer.

They also GAVE me a bag of really old german stuff... like 4 years... I had to chase the Maltster up in Germany to find out how old it was... the guys had no idea.

That malt did not have that usual nice smell of malt... smelled a bit 'dusty'... I did a trial small vol pilot brew and it came up ok but I did not think it was that nice - so gave the bag to me mate with the neddies - cos there is so much work in making a brew - was happy to start with good stuff.

So I think that fresh malt is probably best - and stored cool is good - stored hot for any product it is going to degrade faster... but the sugars and complex carbs in the malt are probably pretty heat stable so stored hot for a while is probably not a brew killer... but probably not best practice either.

In general - maybe I am wrong - but I think fresh malt is gold - and best if you can store sealed from filthy pests in reasonable temperatures.

That's my two bob's worth 😝 and happy to hear better inf.

Cheers

BB2

 

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53 minutes ago, MartyG1525230263 said:

I thought i would throw it in for balance. I don't think i would ever go to a commercial set up.  I may do a keezer one day but very happy with my kegger. 

I may convert a fridge one day, but happy with my keezer. Next project is a mini cold room to store & smoke meat. Got some leftover cold room panels i scored a while back, and have a small refrigeration unit I can adapt, joys of being a tradie I guess 😜😜

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2 minutes ago, Bearded Burbler said:

I reckon that is a really good question BB1.

I have bought grain that was not real young - for a good price - off some good micro brewers - and their shed was like 40+ in summer - had been in there at least one summer.

The malt although over use by date was probably < 2years - and seemed fine - smelled and tasted nice to chew and made nice beer.

They also GAVE me a bag of really old german stuff... like 4 years... I had to chase the Maltster up in Germany to find out how old it was... the guys had no idea.

That malt did not have that usual nice smell of malt... smelled a bit 'dusty'... I did a trial small vol pilot brew and it came up ok but I did not think it was that nice - so gave the bag to me mate with the neddies - cos there is so much work in making a brew - was happy to start with good stuff.

So I think that fresh malt is probably best - and stored cool is good - stored hot for any product it is going to degrade faster... but the sugars and complex carbs in the malt are probably pretty heat stable so stored hot for a while is probably not a brew killer... but probably not best practice either.

In general - maybe I am wrong - but I think fresh malt is gold - and best if you can store sealed from filthy pests in reasonable temperatures.

That's my two bob's worth 😝 and happy to hear better inf.

Cheers

BB2

 

When I get my grain mill and order in bulk I’m not sure where to store it. I don’t think the house will be an option. I’m getting a new shed soon and was going to put it in there but it will definitely get hot in summer so the garage might be the other option although it’s still gets very warm in there

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Posted (edited)
27 minutes ago, Beer Baron said:

When I get my grain mill and order in bulk I’m not sure where to store it. I don’t think the house will be an option. I’m getting a new shed soon and was going to put it in there but it will definitely get hot in summer so the garage might be the other option although it’s still gets very warm in there

Sneak a sealed drum or two in the nice cool bedroom cupboard... maybe paint the drums white so they're less obvious?   If you are in the heat you might be better off leaving the grain in the bags and putting in steel box to keep pests out as having your nice malt in a plastic drum for a few months in the 40s might not be real good...  My storage area peaks at around 28 when its around 40 outside so that is a small plus I guess...  And yeah storing whole unmilled grain is deffo better.

image.png.be3b3a943cb2b7ebd3efa93e92b4683e.png

Edited by Bearded Burbler

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32 minutes ago, Red devil 44 said:

I may convert a fridge one day, but happy with my keezer. Next project is a mini cold room to store & smoke meat. Got some leftover cold room panels i scored a while back, and have a small refrigeration unit I can adapt, joys of being a tradie I guess 😜😜

Yeah being a brewer and having the fridgie and gas fitter knowledge is the biz when it comes to storage and kegging Red!!!    ....ha ha and also handy for constructing smoke-houses 😋 

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