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It's Kegging Time 2019

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The idiot would have been me. Nobody else touches the manifold. Not sure why I turned it off, just by mistake I suppose. 

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On ‎10‎/‎13‎/‎2019 at 10:43 AM, MartyG1525230263 said:

I had a new KegKing reg which I used for a month or so however, as I was aquiring keg gear I picked up a Harris Reg with some kegs I bought for nothing so I ditched the KegKing reg and sold it.  The reason, the Harris reg has a finer adjustment  far easier to increase pressure a couple of PSI. So my verdict after having both go the Harris. 

Tx Marty - Harris it is - glad for the vote of confidence.  I look forward to giving it a run hopefully soon ; )

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I fill it to a little below the gas tube.

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If you look inside one you'll see two weld lines near the top. I usually fill it to somewhere between them. 

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When you look inside the keg you can see where the stainless steel cylinder of the keg finishes and the cap section of the keg starts/is attached I fill to there abouts .... so much the same as Otto ... but best to make sure the gas dip tube is NOT in the brew it must be in the gas void otherwise you may get beer in the gas line which is not optimum ... 

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THANK YOU KEG LEGENDS!

Sounds good... 

So with a brand spanking new 19L Keg… wash out and sterilise... anything else special to be done?

 

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And have good quality disconnects I have used cheap crap plastic $3.95 ones. They are a waste of time and money as they will leak. I have also used stainless and the wonderful CMB disconnects. For mine CMB are the best. Easy to get on and off and will not leak. 

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Unfortunately I have only got the cheap ones to begin with - will look to improve.  Thanks Marty.

And Kelsey - keg lube on the ss posts for the liquid and gas disconnects?  Also not got any keg lube... Thanks Kelsey.

Again... will look to improve.

Guess I will just have to give it a go with what I have - without the inbuilt check-valve CMB quality disconnect... and make sure I am well below the Gas Tube (Safety First).

And no keg lube - hopefully I can get away with it for the first keg?

Thanks Lads.

BB

 

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Yes both posts. It helps get the disconnects on and off easier and prolongs the life of the O rings etc. You can get away with not using it but it's better to use it.

You don't have to be way below the gas dip tube. 10-20mm would be enough. That's about as much as I give it and I have never had beer go back up the gas line. It might momentarily submerge it when the keg is being moved into place but then of course it stabilises and the gas pressure keeps it out anyway. 

Edited by Otto Von Blotto
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Gold.  Thanks very much for that Kelsey.

Is all a new thing so is great to be able to be given the right hints.

So I will proceed with what I have - and look toward getting the Keg Lube and also maybe a fancy Gas disconnect.

And pay attention to filling level.

For the time being I had better get on as its Brew Day and am way behind schedule : |

Cheers.

Bernie

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So Keg Kings... this is the beginner's kit that I have procured... just the basics to start with.  Am thinking I might need to make up some sort of stand to keep the C02 bottle steady.

And hopefully when the 1080 IPA had done its COLD CRASH with some FISH GUTS (Isinglass) and has cleared up really nicely...

It might go into this keg for my VERY FIRST keg attempt... and hopefully without any of the dangerous fails I read before on the Fail Thread : |

Q1.  What do you Master Brewers and Keggers use to go from a Coopers Plazzi into a 19L SS Keg?  I have currently got my 1/2 white high temp Silicon Brew Day hose and just clamped it to the plastic bottling valve (sometimes called "Little Aussie Bottler") which will insert into the FV plastic tap and will put the sterilised Si hose into the Keg once sterilised and purged with C02...  What sort of connections/.pipe affair do you experienced folk normally use?

Q2.  What pressure for Carbonation... my man who sold me the below kit reckons that secondary ferment in keg is better than forced carb as is slower and produces FINER bubbles.. faster carbonation produces more COARSE bubbles... any thoughts on this?  Am keen on fine bubble size generating that creamy head if poss.  But want to do a force carb... should I just do it slower and ramp up the pressure over time?

 

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On ‎9‎/‎30‎/‎2019 at 2:31 PM, MitchellScott said:

Honestly kegging is piss easy once you have the right information.

There are quite a few calculators for you to work out your serving pressure and line length. Clamping lines with stepless clamps is nearly impossible to screw up and once its all done you don't have to worry about it again.

For me, my kegs sit at about 2C, serving pressure is 12PSI and my line length is 4.5m of 5mm ID line. Simplez 😛

Cheers, Mitch.

Mitch what pressure/time do you utilise when force carbing?

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4 minutes ago, Bearded Burbler said:

Mitch what pressure/time do you utilise when force carbing?

Hey mate.

Depends on how quickly I want the beer ready or whether I have my taps full already. If you don't need it for a few weeks, then serving pressure (12PSI for me) for 1.5-2 weeks is fine and you will not have any chance of over carbonation.

If I want to have it on tap ASAP, I have the keg chilled (from cold crashing) and hit it with 40PSI for 24 hours then serving pressure for 24 hours and it is usually pretty close to fully carbed.

I don't go any longer at high pressure as if you over carb it it is a pain to bring the carb level back down. I would prefer to carb at 40PSI for 24 hours then sit at serving pressure for a day or two and know I'm not risking overcarbonation. I have seen some people saying 30 or 35PSI for 48 hours works well too, but I don't wanna risk the overcarb situation so stick with what I mentioned above as I have tried and tested those methods 🙂

Mitch.

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22 hours ago, MitchellScott said:

Hey mate.

Depends on how quickly I want the beer ready or whether I have my taps full already. If you don't need it for a few weeks, then serving pressure (12PSI for me) for 1.5-2 weeks is fine and you will not have any chance of over carbonation.

If I want to have it on tap ASAP, I have the keg chilled (from cold crashing) and hit it with 40PSI for 24 hours then serving pressure for 24 hours and it is usually pretty close to fully carbed.

I don't go any longer at high pressure as if you over carb it it is a pain to bring the carb level back down. I would prefer to carb at 40PSI for 24 hours then sit at serving pressure for a day or two and know I'm not risking overcarbonation. I have seen some people saying 30 or 35PSI for 48 hours works well too, but I don't wanna risk the overcarb situation so stick with what I mentioned above as I have tried and tested those methods 🙂

Mitch.

Beaut - thanks mate.

So if I am following my mate's suggestion that slow is good... for finer bubbles... maybe just put on serving pressure for a cuppla weeks... maybe that will generate the fine bubbles and also not over-carbonate... am in no rush for this first one... does that sound reasonable?

Is there any downside of doing it slow other than having the tense-wait to try the beautiful beer?  😆

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I don't think the speed of carbonation really makes any difference to the bubbles, but no, other than waiting a bit longer there's no downside to carbonating at serving pressure. 

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16 minutes ago, Otto Von Blotto said:

I don't think the speed of carbonation really makes any difference to the bubbles, but no, other than waiting a bit longer there's no downside to carbonating at serving pressure. 

Thanks Kelsey.  Well this fairly well credentialled Brewing Lad did reckon that was his experience... faster carb was coarse bubble size... mmm... and so it will be something I will look to investigating... the bottle secondary ferment bubble size has been radically different between basic HB KnK w Dex and then KnK w LDME and then w All Grain... so am keen to see how the Force Carb will influence.... guess all of the Micro-Brewery stuff I have had from Rusty Penny has all very nice fine bubble size and suspect besides AG they do Force Carb their kegs... 

But that all is really good... I think I will do the slow carb thing and see what the result is... Thanks hey !?!

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Maybe for the first day or two after carbonating it the bubbles are bigger but the only thing I've noticed that makes a difference is the actual level of carbonation itself. I use the quick method a fair bit but often the bubbles are quite small because I don't fully carbonate it on high pressure. 

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Looking at going down the kegging road, my selling point to swmbo is, all the cupboard space in the  spare room taken up with my bottles can be hers. Now to convince her a fridge on the back veranda will look good 😉

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17 hours ago, John304 said:

Now to convince her a fridge on the back veranda will look good 😉

Fill it with champagne and chocolates?   

😍

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19 hours ago, John304 said:

Looking at going down the kegging road, my selling point to swmbo is, all the cupboard space in the  spare room taken up with my bottles can be hers. Now to convince her a fridge on the back veranda will look good 😉

I moved the inside fridge to the garage to see what it would look like..........It never went back inside again😂

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Well Keg Kings - and with many thanks to you all - the latest news: My second ever AG IPA is now in the keg in the fridge being force carbed at around 12PSI… will let it gather up some carbs over a cuppla weeks for carbing and keg conditioning and then give it  crack methinks... the brew that went in... well... tasted like beer.... just a tad flat.  I suspect this might be the strangest pic you have ever seen but just for the time being it is practical having the gas in there as well to keep it safe, upright and out of the way.  So should I be letting a bit of C02 out tomorrow or so - this business of burping?

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