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BREW DAY!! WATCHA' GOT, EH!? 2019


ben 10

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1 hour ago, Otto Von Blotto said:

That should be tasty. I did a similar beer last year although with less total hops and it was great.

I do remember that. 

I went into my LHBS and saw that the hops were $34 for 500g. I’d been wanting to do this type of beer for a while.

With a sack of Coopers ale malt under my arm I thought what a great way to see how the malt and the hops in a very simple brew.

One to showcase the hop and the malt. 

To add the whole brew worked out to be around $34.

Edited by The Captain1525230099
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Stout on the go now. Not sure if i have over done the crystal addition. Time will tell. I will sour some of this and add it back to the fermenting wort. Hoping the crystal will balance the sour.

 

Screenshot_20190309-143153.jpg

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Brewed an Citra Blonde Ale yesty all grain in the Robobrew, 4.5kg Pilsner, 100gm Crystal, 15gm Columbus 60 min boil for bittering, 30gm Citra 15 min boil, 30gm Citra 5 min boil, planning on dry hoping 15gm Citra in the FV for a few days,  oh and Safale so4 yeast. Hit the numbers spot on with the help from BeerSmith3 ,Batch 20lts, Boil25lts, OG1048, Its bubbling away nicely in FV @ 18 degree's .

Cheers 

Spud

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put down another variation of the pacific ale today. An interesting day in the brewery, my little 20ltr urn kept cutting in and out and wouldn't come to the boil, so I madly filled all the pots and finished the boil on the stove top, the missus said you will have to get a new urn, null sooo @karlos_1984 I will be getting the 48ltr urn on Ebay. After cleaning the old urn I noticed crud caked on the element, after brushing it off and cleaned it up I tipped the wort back in it and presto works like a new one. but too late I have the green light yay null will let you know what it is like

Edited by John304
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44 minutes ago, John304 said:

the missus said you will have to get a new urn, null sooo @karlos_1984 I will be getting the 48ltr urn on Ebay. After cleaning the old urn I noticed crud caked on the element, after brushing it off and cleaned it up I tipped the wort back in it and presto works like a new one. but too late I have the green light yay null 

Hahaha - I love your work @John304

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1 hour ago, John304 said:

put down another variation of the pacific ale today. An interesting day in the brewery, my little 20ltr urn kept cutting in and out and wouldn't come to the boil, so I madly filled all the pots and finished the boil on the stove top, the missus said you will have to get a new urn, null sooo @karlos_1984 I will be getting the 48ltr urn on Ebay. After cleaning the old urn I noticed crud caked on the element, after brushing it off and cleaned it up I tipped the wort back in it and presto works like a new one. but too late I have the green light yay null will let you know what it is like

Things happen for a reason don't they.  What a PITA it would have been transferring to all your pots and doing that, but worked out for the best in the end I suppose. Let me know how the urn goes on the other thread.

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On 3/14/2019 at 4:58 PM, karlos_1984 said:

Things happen for a reason don't they. 

 

On 3/14/2019 at 5:02 PM, John304 said:

they sure do, sometimes for the better

Yeah sorta like spinach cans turning into pint glasses full of beer!

Look out Bluto! 😁

Cheers,

Lusty.

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On 3/9/2019 at 10:32 AM, The Captain!! said:

Vic secret pale, with coopers ale malt not BB. 

339413BC-F5B1-41DF-8BEE-26F8A18EBFCC.png

I only just noticed this in recent posts of yours, but why the 160gm amount for dry hopping? 🤔 That is the equivalent of approx. 7-8gms per litre. You must be following the "PorscheMad philosophy". 😜

Not that I'm abject to applying those levels, but there is a cut-off level of diminishing returns. John himself (PorscheMad911) has spoken about this, as has Mark (MarkDPirate), as have I in some relevant conversations.

Singed nose hairs & nose bleeds must be your ultimate aim? 🤣

Personally I feel you're wasting (on some diminishing level) 20-40gms for a standard 20-23 litre brew if using that amount.

For a 20-23 litre batch if you're not getting a highly noticeable aroma from 100-120gms of dry hops then look at the type(s) of hops your are using to dry hop, your supplier, & your storage methods for hops. 4-5gms per litre should be plenty for batch sizes of this volume.

Cheers,

Lusty.

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@Beerlust

i hear what your saying however my dry hopping schedule sits between 6-7g per litre of a 25ltr batch. I’ve tried all sorts of dry hopping schedules, when I first started it was no where near what I was trying for.

After noticing some of the American style beers dry hopping 200-250g for 25litres I decided to do just that. It was way too much.

After a lot of experimental schedules I have come to this one. It works for my tastes. 

If I wanted to wait another week for my beer I’d dry hop 120g (4.8g per litre) at 14c for five days then cold crash, however my fifo lifestyle doesn’t work out that way. It would be in the FV for 23-24 days. As it would be a cold crash of 11 days. 

I’d rather punch 40g more at it and drink it a week earlier for the same aroma/flavour results with a 5 day cold crash and dry hop. 

If I was really worried about using too much hops I’d just keg hop my beers. But hey...... you’ve never tried that technique have ya🤪

jokes aside, I don’t believe that 6-7g per litre would have that much diminishing effects, I realise it’s slightly on the bell curve to diminished results but not enough for me to lower/change my process. 

Captain

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32 minutes ago, The Captain!! said:

...If I was really worried about using too much hops I’d just keg hop my beers. But hey...... you’ve never tried that technique have ya🤪

No I haven't, & because I know my shit, I don't have to compensate with post brew hopping methods like that at a point it should already present for drinking. 😉

I'll say it now...if you require additional hopping after the brew leaves the FV then you've failed on some level in your original creation of the intended beer or you just love making "wanky" beer.

32 minutes ago, The Captain!! said:

...jokes aside, I don’t believe that 6-7g per litre would have that much diminishing effects, I realise it’s slightly on the bell curve to diminished results but not enough for me to lower/change my process.

It's a diminishing effect on a sliding scale. With the aromatics of dry hops it's often harder to detect the threshold point as the beer smells terrific to a certain point even after you go past the effective point.

In layman's terms it's sorta like making cordial. At some point pouring more cordial concentrate over the cordial/water mix will not add anything further in intensity. The mixture is simply saturated with that much cordial concentrate at a certain point where the flavour/aroma can intensify no further.

Given your 25 litre volume, 130-150gms of dry hops is probably about right.

Cheers,

Lusty.

Edited by Beerlust
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52 minutes ago, Beerlust said:

No I haven't, & because I know my shit, I don't have to compensate with post brew hopping methods like that at a point it should already present for drinking. 😉

I'll say it now...if you require additional hopping after the brew leaves the FV then you've failed on some level in your original creation of the intended beer or you just love making "wanky" beer

If your kegging its a waste of money dry hopping your batch. Plain and simple. Keg hopping gives better results for less hops if your drinking it within a month or so.

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39 minutes ago, Beerlust said:

No I haven't, & because I know my shit, I don't have to compensate with post brew hopping methods like that at a point it should already present for drinking. 😉

I think your missing the point of keg hopping as a technique. I know people who keg hop exclusively and do not FV dry hop, because that’s the way they like it. And they “know their shit”. I’m not going to name drop but you have mentioned their beer on a number of times being very good. 

You’re seeing the technique as a failure in process. If it’s the only dry hop, how can that be a failure in a well thought out process. 

Yes, it can be used as a fix up for low aromatics in a beer as an additional dry hop. But it is still a relevent technique for delivering aroma to a beer using less hops. 

I’m not saying that it’s for me, or you, all I’m saying is that it’s technique that can be used regardless, to deliver aroma to a beer using less hops. 

39 minutes ago, Beerlust said:

It's a diminishing effect on a sliding scale.

You can call it what ever scale you want to call it, being that the more you use the less effective it is by weight per volume past a certain point (4-5g per litre) I say bell curve as it’s being a better descriptor because the effects aren’t linear. 

So yeah, I’ve figured out my sweet spot for the beers I create for my tastes and process.

39 minutes ago, Beerlust said:

Given your 25 litre volume, 130-150gms of dry hops is probably about right.

Yes, absolutely is. If I was dry hopping at 14c that’s around the top end of where I’d be. I find because I cold crash as I dry hop, that I don’t get that “brightness” that I do at 14c. Hence the slightly larger amount. 

Every part of my process has been well researched and experimented on my system to deliver the best beer I can, given my time constraints. 

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10 hours ago, Greeny1525229549 said:

If your kegging its a waste of money dry hopping your batch. Plain and simple. Keg hopping gives better results for less hops if your drinking it within a month or so.

Maybe in your world Greeny, not mine. I don't dry hop for the fun of it. If it didn't give me what I wanted, I simply wouldn't do it. Once the hop oils are released into the beer, they don't just magically disappear. There may be some minor oxidation type issues that are perhaps avoided when keg hopping but that's about the crux of it in terms of difference (IMHO).

10 hours ago, The Captain!! said:

I think your missing the point of keg hopping as a technique. I know people who keg hop exclusively and do not FV dry hop, because that’s the way they like it. And they “know their shit”. I’m not going to name drop but you have mentioned their beer on a number of times being very good. 

You’re seeing the technique as a failure in process. If it’s the only dry hop, how can that be a failure in a well thought out process. 

Nice try. 😉

That's not what I said. I didn't say the end result of keg hopping doesn't work. Keg hopping in itself isn't a failure process, but the fact you need to implement it outside the FV probably indicates there is a failure of process before reaching that point. In the production of commercial bottled & kegged beer you don't have the luxury of being able to 'keg hop' or 'bottle hop' (is there such a thing?).

You're currently interested in a Russian River beer. Do you think Vinny Cilurzo keg hops or bottle hops his beers?

10 hours ago, The Captain!! said:

...You can call it what ever scale you want to call it, being that the more you use the less effective it is by weight per volume past a certain point (4-5g per litre) I say bell curve as it’s being a better descriptor because the effects aren’t linear.

My statement is one made as a general guide on a home brewing forum, not a scientific one. There are always going to be some differences to the rule given hop varieties differ with their oil content & aromatic intensity. The debate on what is a suitable weight per litre to use for dry hopping will always differ from one person to another due to the differing hops being used, & the endless differences brewers adopt in producing the beer before reaching the dry hop phase.

Glad I got a few bites. 😁

Cheers & good brewing,

Lusty.

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