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Partial mash + extract IIPA HELP


jwoodward

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Stepping up to partial mash and looking to pull together an imperial IPA, looking to get some assistance with confirming the recipe, maybe some confirmation on mash time (thinking of 90min), boil time (maybe 30min) and dry hopping / keg hopping.

 

HOME BREW RECIPE:
Title: Partial mash imperial IPA

Brew Method: Partial Mash
Style Name: Imperial IPA
Boil Time: 15 min
Batch Size: 21 liters (fermentor volume)
Boil Size: 14 liters
Boil Gravity: 1.069
Efficiency: 60% (brew house)


STATS:
Original Gravity: 1.086
Final Gravity: 1.016
ABV (standard): 9.25%
IBU (rager): 71.33
SRM (morey): 14.69

FERMENTABLES:
4 kg - New Zealand - Ale Malt (50.3%)
0.5 kg - German - Caramel Wheat (6.3%)
0.4 kg - New Zealand - Light Crystal Malt (5%)
0.1 kg - German - Acidulated Malt (1.3%)
0.25 kg - German - CaraMunich II (3.1%)
1 kg - Dry Malt Extract - Light - (late addition)  (12.6%)
1.7 kg - Liquid Malt Extract - Light - (late addition)  (21.4%)

HOPS:
25 g - Centennial, Type: Pellet, AA: 10, Use: Whirlpool for 30 min at 100 °C, IBU: 10.89
25 g - Galaxy, Type: Pellet, AA: 14.25, Use: Whirlpool for 15 min at 100 °C, IBU: 15.52
25 g - Mosaic, Type: Pellet, AA: 12.5, Use: Whirlpool for 15 min at 100 °C, IBU: 13.61
25 g - Simcoe, Type: Pellet, AA: 12.7, Use: Whirlpool for 15 min at 100 °C, IBU: 13.83
15 g - Galaxy, Type: Pellet, AA: 14.25, Use: Whirlpool for 5 min at 100 °C, IBU: 9.31
15 g - Mosaic, Type: Pellet, AA: 12.5, Use: Whirlpool for 5 min at  °C, IBU: 8.17
25 g - Citra, Type: Pellet, AA: 11, Use: Dry Hop for 10 days
25 g - Mosaic, Type: Pellet, AA: 12.5, Use: Dry Hop for 10 days

MASH GUIDELINES:
1) Infusion, Temp: 67 C, Time: 60 min, Amount: 14 L

YEAST:
Fermentis / Safale - American Ale Yeast US-05

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I think you've got the terminology mixed up a bit there. A whirlpool happens after the boil while the wort is cooling. Those "whirlpool" additions look like boil additions. 

Mash time is up to you. 90 minutes may or may not yield an extra SG point or two, but it will make the wort slightly more fermentable than 60 minutes. 

Boil time should be 60 minutes, or longer, but 60 will work fine. You will also want around half the IBU from a 60 minute boil addition otherwise the beer will likely present too sweet.  IMO a big gravity beer like this needs a good whack of firm bitterness to balance all the malt sweetness, which you only get from long boiling hops. The Centennial would work well here, simply move it from 30 to 60 minutes, maybe increase the amount a bit too. The other hops could probably stay the same.

You'll notice a bunch of crap in the bottom of the boil kettle once the wort sits for a period of time after the boil. This should be kept out of the fermenter as much as possible.

Yeast, use two packs rehydrated in water. You'll need it to get through all that sugar.  

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Thanks, that’s great feedback. I have changed the first hops to be added at the boil and the remainder at whirlpool. I have a couple of hop bags I was planning on using, but also have a colander to catch all the gunk before it gets into the fermenter, as well as a basket when I’m dry/ keg hopping.

 

HOME BREW RECIPE:
Title: Partial mash imperial IPA

Brew Method: Partial Mash
Style Name: Imperial IPA
Boil Time: 60 min
Batch Size: 21 liters (fermentor volume)
Boil Size: 14 liters
Boil Gravity: 1.069
Efficiency: 60% (brew house)


STATS:
Original Gravity: 1.086
Final Gravity: 1.016
ABV (standard): 9.25%
IBU (rager): 66.48
SRM (morey): 14.69

FERMENTABLES:
4 kg - New Zealand - Ale Malt (50.3%)
0.5 kg - German - Caramel Wheat (6.3%)
0.4 kg - New Zealand - Light Crystal Malt (5%)
0.1 kg - German - Acidulated Malt (1.3%)
0.25 kg - German - CaraMunich II (3.1%)
1 kg - Dry Malt Extract - Light - (late addition)  (12.6%)
1.7 kg - Liquid Malt Extract - Light - (late addition)  (21.4%)

HOPS:
45 g - Centennial, Type: Pellet, AA: 10, Use: Boil for 60 min, IBU: 6.04
25 g - Galaxy, Type: Pellet, AA: 14.25, Use: Whirlpool for 15 min at 70 °C, IBU: 15.52
25 g - Mosaic, Type: Pellet, AA: 12.5, Use: Whirlpool for 15 min at 70 °C, IBU: 13.61
25 g - Simcoe, Type: Pellet, AA: 12.7, Use: Whirlpool for 15 min at 70 °C, IBU: 13.83
15 g - Galaxy, Type: Pellet, AA: 14.25, Use: Whirlpool for 5 min at 65 °C, IBU: 9.31
15 g - Mosaic, Type: Pellet, AA: 12.5, Use: Whirlpool for 5 min at 65 °C, IBU: 8.17
25 g - Citra, Type: Pellet, AA: 11, Use: Dry Hop for 10 days
25 g - Mosaic, Type: Pellet, AA: 12.5, Use: Dry Hop for 10 days

MASH GUIDELINES:
1) Infusion, Temp: 67 C, Time: 90 min, Amount: 14 L

YEAST:
Fermentis / Safale - American Ale Yeast US-05
Starter: Yes
Form: Dry
Attenuation (avg): 81%
Flocculation: Medium
Optimum Temp: 12.22 - 25 C
Fermentation Temp: 18 C

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Something is up with the IBU calculations there. 45g of Centennial boiled for an hour is gonna give way more than 6 IBU. Also adding hops below 80 degrees won't really give any IBU, however it is a great way to get a decent amount of hop flavor into the beer so I would leave at least some of them there, maybe move some to flameout or a 10 minute boil. Most of us use tinseth rather than rager for IBU prediction, although I doubt that's the issue. 

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Thanks, I was a little confused around that as well, mind you it was left as the default 10% utilisation, putting it up to 50% makes a difference,  getting it up to 30 which it should be closer to than the 6 as you rightly called out. I will add the second batch of hops at flameout and then the last batch with 10 to go in a 30min whirlpool to get the aroma and flavour. I love my hops so as long as I can balance out the sweetness, bitterness, aromas and flavour I’d be happy - not asking for much.

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Generally 2.75L per KG for the mash, and 1.2l per kg for the sparge and won’t normally top up until I’m ready to ferment in case I need to add more water or fermentables to get to or closer to my target OG. I haven’t mashed with this volume before so it’s a bit of an unknown how much I need to top-up (if any) after sparging. If I do need to top up it will be up to approx. 15.5l, I’d expect to lose around 1.5l during the boil which will get me to the 14L mark. Thanks for pointing that out, I noticed I had my boil size as 14 and not 15.5L.

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Hello!

IIPAs are great, so I hope yours turns out well.

However, there's a lot of crystal / caramel malts (500g + 400g + 250g) in this for an imperial IPA. Personally I would take them all out, although you could keep the 250g Caramunich if you really, really wanted to. Given that this is a partial mash batch, your wort will likely be less fermentable than an all-grain version anyway. Commercial brewers often use 100% base malt, or even 90% base malt / 10% dextrose when making a DIPA. There's a lot of malt in them to get the OG, so it definitely won't feel thin, even without specialty malts.

You will also need more hops for an imperial IPA, in particular your 50g dry hop is not enough. In my experience, a 7g/l hopping rate in the whirlpool and as a dry hop works fairly well for a DIPA. So given your 21l fermenter volume, you could move your current dry hop into the whirlpool addition, then use another 150g as a dry hop.

Yes hops are pricey, but IMO DIPA is a style that there's no point in doing halfway. It's just that since you've already invested a fair bit of time, effort and money into the batch, you want it to be something that is really special, not something that leaves you lacking in one particular area (eg hop aroma from a dry hop that is too small in quantity).

My only other tip is to drink it as quickly as possible once it comes into condition, so you can enjoy the beautiful fresh hop intensity that this style brings. Not sure how quickly you get through your beer, but with my 11 litre batches the hops are starting to drop off slightly by the time I get to the last couple of bottles.

Cheers,

John

 

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Thanks for the feedback John,

unfortunately i hadnt seen this prior to mashing and boiling on the weekend, however the wort does currently look a little darker than the light copper I was looking for (not to mention the haze from the hops). I dumped 120g in the boil and have so far added an additional 60g into the first dry hop (I did note it looked a little sad with the low dry hop I had prior to jacked it up) and will be adding an additional 50-60 in as a keg hop just after I cold crash.

im hoping I can get it to clear up a little more via some gelatin in the keg after I CC (of course I forgot to add whirfloc at the end of the boil in my haste) however I’m not phased by some cloud if it tastes good - just hoping it does clear up a little more with fermentation (currently looking like mud with a load of yeasties floating around, up and down throughout it). OG was down, but that was due to adding an additional 2l more water (up to 23l) to the fermenter to accommodate the cloudy wort, amount of trub and potential yeast cake from near 2 packets of yeast. Still should just be within the range I’m after once it finishes fermenting.

Anyone have any tips for helping clear up a heavy beer such as this, apart from keg conditioning, or is this something I really shouldn’t worry about along my homebrew journey? This is only my 3rd partial mash, the other two have been a lot lighter but wanted to step it up for (hopefully) Christmas Day.

image.jpg

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Cold crashing and gelatin should help to clear the beer up. 

I am not really fussed on clear beer. I forgot to add kettle finings in my current IPA and I don’t use gelatin so all I do is cold crash and if if doesn’t get clear then s$&t happens. It will still be delicious beer!!

Beer Baron 

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My thoughts exactly, I’m just praying this one turns out good. Definitely fermenting and it smells GREAT when I open the fridge door. I might even bottle a few more if it all settles at cold crash, was only planning on bottling 1-2 but may have a couple more I can stow away, not sure how it will go with fewer hops though, might need to rethink keg hopping and just add another dry hop to the fermenter on the weekend.

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My experience differs a bit regarding forgetting kettle finings. When I did it, nothing cleared the beer (used isinglass, Polyclar and 2 months cold in the keg) and it tasted crap compared to what it normally tastes like (it was/is a regular recipe so I had something to compare it to). However, it was a pilsner. In the case of this beer, the mountain of hops may well mask any flavor faults that might occur from poor hot break separation, which is also likely why it looks extra cloudy. I doubt gelatine will clear it much if at all, but I'm only going off my own experience of haze caused by poor break separation not being cleared by post ferment finings.

Ever thought of using the gelatin during the cold crash instead of in the keg itself? I usually add my post ferment finings in the fermenter while it's cold crashing so they stay behind. Just a suggestion. 😎

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May be a decent idea, and I’m hoping it doesn’t taste like crap - sampled a bit out of the fermenter yesterday and I’m getting the feeling this one is going to be a learning experience (i.e. learning what NOT to do) - it’s down to 1.022 so only another handful of points to go. Not sure if the bitterness will die down as fermentation finishes, but wow it’s majorly bitter / sour at the moment which leads me to believe it may be infected and goneskies.

will keep on sampling as I go, but now getting the feeling this one won’t be ready for Christmas, or maybe only ready to be dumped 😞

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2 hours ago, jwoodward said:

...it’s down to 1.022 so only another handful of points to go.

The estimated FG from the calculator is mighty ambitious @ 1.016 given the ingredient list. That assumes 80% attenuation from the yeast whereas 75% would be more likely provided you've pitched enough to begin with, & that would have you finish @ 1.020.

Hopefully it does drop under 1.020.

Higher gravity brews can create additional problems & at times require some manipulation in the way they are constructed & fermented to achieve certain outcomes particularly regarding desired final gravity.

Best of luck with the brew,

Lusty.

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I hope so, lol. I have a refractometer on the way so I’m sure I will be able to double check when it arrives, hopefully tomorrow.....if it’s not reading right it may mean I actually did achieve the target OG. I wasn’t planning on commencing the cold crash until early / mid-next week, but will take a few more readings through until then.

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I will just correct my hydro readings until I get the refactrometer and start from scratch.  Still unsure how it’s going to turn out, but have a feeling I boiled the hops for too long, hence the major bitterness. Will see how it turns out after settling down and the second dry hop.

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Try using tinseth for predicting the IBU from the hop additions next time, it might turn out more as expected. The length of boil isn't so much the issue, it's the amount of hops used for that addition. If you use less hops but still do a 60 minute boil, you'll get less bitterness. 

Is your hydrometer reading 5 points low or high in water?

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