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Just started my first home brew kit


Rob in Devon, UK

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Hello to all in the community. Just started my first brew kit this afternoon - IPA. The instructions all seem clear but let's see what happens. I am a complete novice at this so look forward to interaction with the community. One thing I did find odd was that there was no guidance regarding the temperature of the first 20 litres of water to be added ie how much cold water from the tap vs how much warm water. I have no idea what makes up to the ideal temperature range. Any advice for the future ? Also now have to keep the temperature constant - not so easy in the Autumn when the heating is not yet on properly and the weather fluctuates. Going to be a nervous few days.... Cheers, Rob

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Welcome; I’m still learning myself, but if you start filling with cold water to 15L and take a temp measurement, you should have enough time to get the temp where you need it to be by the time you reach 20L.

Inkbird temp controllers are good (Ebay) as are heat belts or heat pads. Alternatively use a sink of water to put your vessel in and add hot water or frozen bottles to adjust temp. Vessel temps will lag behind ambient temps quite a bit.

One thing they often leave out is that when you bottle, leave it for longer than the minimum, and consider the bottles still need to be in the right temperature for secondary fermentation, else they don’t carbonate (fizz) or may just take much longer. So store in a warm cupboard.

good luck

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I'm on my 3rd and so long as you follow instructions and sanitise well, everything should be fine.

A target temp is important so you don't put in your yeast when it's too hot or cold. Coopers suggest a couple litres of hot or boiling water to do your mix, topped up with tap. this should put you in the mid 20C. Keeping temp stable at around 18-20 for ales is ideal, but I don't have a means of controlling mine either, so I fluctuated a bit with my first 2 brews. They both came out fine.

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Hi All

just starting down this road, first brew coopers ipa brew A, if any one has any guidance for some questions I'd be very grateful.

(1) its been in the primary fermenter now for 2 weeks, air lock still bubbling.  Is it still fermenting.

(2) checked gravity but cant get it down into the bottling range its at .030 this is the main reason its still in the bucket.

I am happy with the taste, look and smell should i just go ahead and bottle and see what happens.

Cheers thanks for taking the time to read this over, any tips hints etc would be great.

Sean.

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Welcome to the rabbit hole!

I'm new too, so can't give you expert advice. Did you de-gas your hydrometer when measuring the gravity? 1.030 sounds high to me for something that's been in the FV for 2 weeks. Also check your hydrometer in plain water to see if it registers 1.000. 

 

 

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Thanks SILMARIL

firstly I'm an idiot, read the wrong scale on the hydrometer, actual reading 1.009. 

Thing is, on the leaflet that came with the hydrometer it says not to bottle above 1.006 or bottles will burst but the brew seems to be stuck at 1.009 now for the last two days.  

Did a bit of youtube and google and so just gave it a stir and a hotwater bottle.

here's hoping

thanks again for taking the time to reply, all advice gratefully accepted.

Sean 

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I bottled a lager that was stable at 1.014. From what I've read it isn't the exact final gravity but the fact that it has stopped fermenting / lowering the final gravity which makes it safe to bottle.

I'm also using plastic PET bottles which can stand quite a lot of pressure, compared to the traditional glass bottle bombs!

 

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32 minutes ago, Sean P said:

Thing is, on the leaflet that came with the hydrometer it says not to bottle above 1.006 or bottles will burst but the brew seems to be stuck at 1.009 now for the last two days.  
 

Not sure why they'd state that. I ahven't yet bottled a brew that's got down that low on the hydro.

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I wish they'd do away with those stupid leaflets, the beer does not have to drop below 1.006 or any other arbitrary number before it's safe to bottle. It simply has to finish in the expected FG range for the ingredients and batch volume. They all differ. 

Don't take too much notice of the airlock, it could be bubbling for any reason. If you warmed up the brew that will cause gas to come out of solution which would see it bubble a bit. I would suggest that it has finished fermentation at 1.009 and is fine to be bottled. 

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48 minutes ago, Rob in Devon, UK said:

Thanks for all the replies and advice. So it's OK for the brew to stay in the 'bucket' for longer than 7 days or so ? Cheers, Rob

Good for a few weeks Rob. My Brews stay in the FV for 14-19 days

Cheers,
Hoppy

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hello again.

My brew has now been in the fermenter for 14 days. To be honest I am worried that it has not worked properly. There has been no significant foaming - nothing visible at all really. There is bubbling on the surface. The current SG reading is 1.010 assuming I am reading the scale correctly! It started at 1.034.

I have attached a photo in case this helps show the current condition. I will check SG again each day now to see if it is stable. Bit hesitant to taste it just now...

Any feedback would be appreciated.

If it is indeed no good I particularly want to try and establish what I did wrong before the next attempt.

Certainly the information on the community site will help me.

image.png.92b27f67eb7c3332701f97061bedff5d.png

 

Cheers

Rob

 

 

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Hi Rob

total newbie myself, but that looks exactly like mine did just before I bottled, final sg 1.009 been in the bottles since last thursday 04/10/18.

Had to try one last night, had carbed up, not as much as I would like, fairly clear in the glass, no head as such taste like ale though doesn't have the hop aroma.

I'm really pleased with how it worked out and still tastes better than most of the beer I buy.

It was a coopers IPA brew A, 1 kg brewing sugar 22 liters of water.

Excited to see what it becomes with maturity (who am I kidding it wont last that long)

Again thanks to all the people who gave advice, got a coopers Canadian blonde on the way any tips hints etc greatly appreciated.

Sean.

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2 hours ago, Otto Von Blotto said:

Replace the brewing sugar with malt extract and you'll probably get a better beer. Throw 30-40g of hops into the fermenter a few days before bottling, should improve the hop aroma.

Seconded. After 5 brews I feel the kits without hops can end up a bit bland - at least with the standard Coopers range. Likewise, using brewing sugars with some malt in.

I boiled fuggles for my English Bitter, but there's not as much flavour as I'd have hoped for. Next I'll throw a load of hops in a few days before bottling as well. For my current brew, a Black Rock Pale I haven't done any boil, I'm just going to throw in Citra hops later this week.

Correct me if wrong, but boiling hops pre ferment is to extract acidity and some flavour, and adding straight from the pack in a bag, post ferment is for extra flavour and aroma?

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51 minutes ago, Lab Rat said:

Correct me if wrong, but boiling hops pre ferment is to extract acidity and some flavour, and adding straight from the pack in a bag, post ferment is for extra flavour and aroma?

The duration of the boil has a lot to do with determining what contribution the hop makes to the beer. Long boils are primarily about bittering -  main bittering additions are typically boiled for around 60 minutes.  Boil times under 30 minutes, while still contributing to the bitterness add to the flavour and even shorter boil times to aroma as well.  There's also 'flame-out' additions and post-boil steep/whirlpool additions that also add to flavour and aroma.  Late/post-fermentation dry hops are added more for  aroma.

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16 hours ago, Rob in Devon, UK said:


I am using new PET bottles. Is it OK to just wash them in hot water for this first time ? 

 

Hi Rob, 

As @Titan said, a rinse off is fine for first use.

But be wary not to use hot water while washing P.E.T . It will warp your bottles and will severely weaken them.

I use warm water only with mine. ?

Cheers, Lee

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