Beerlust Posted October 9, 2018 Share Posted October 9, 2018 Just now, Ben 10 said: @Beerlust - haven't i seen that image before? Yes, loosely everyday in your back shed. Cheers, Lusty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guvna Posted October 9, 2018 Share Posted October 9, 2018 Hey Silmaril, hope the fridge is working well. I too recently aquired a large 'all fridge' with the aim of temp controlling 2 fermenters. (of course this will mean I now need another keg ) Hopefully I can get by with only one TC and manage 2 brews - 1 controlled and the other along for the ride. Anyone done or does this? cheers Guvna Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otto Von Blotto Posted October 9, 2018 Share Posted October 9, 2018 If you only have one fridge then you can only use one controller anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Captain!! Posted October 9, 2018 Share Posted October 9, 2018 I do exactly this @Guvna i have a freezer temp controlled, but I just put the yeast in at the same time. Easy as. The only issue I had was when I cold crashed once, I dumbassly put the probe on the FV that was further away from the compressor which then froze the beer closest to that side. The one with the probe was perfect. Captain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
#granted+brew Posted October 9, 2018 Share Posted October 9, 2018 I'm brewing with a split fridge/freezer which is challenging to say the least. As Kelsey said you can only control the one fridge anyway. But heating can be controlled over both FV's. with only one temp. controller. Last brews I did, I had the freezer turned up to the highest temp available and the fridge part set down at the coldest. I had the temp. controller probe on the F.V in the freezer and it worked really well in both chambers at ale temps. I used heat belts on both F.V's during the D rest, both plugged into a double adapter then into the temp controller*. Being the same volume F.V's it kept them both at the same stable temps. I'll be rigging up that setup again tomorrow night I think as we've gone back to winter here in Adelaide and my Lager is struggling to come up to temp. by itself for a Diacetyl rest. Cheers, Lee * I've only got a cheapo temp. controller off ebay, it's only got one plug in but I made sure I got one that was rated to 2000w. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otto Von Blotto Posted October 9, 2018 Share Posted October 9, 2018 What I more meant was that you can't plug one fridge into two controllers at the same time. Aside from there only being the one plug on the fridge, it'd be turning the fridge on and off too often. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pezzza Posted October 11, 2018 Share Posted October 11, 2018 On 10/9/2018 at 9:12 PM, Guvna said: I too recently aquired a large 'all fridge' with the aim of temp controlling 2 fermenters. (of course this will mean I now need another keg ) Hopefully I can get by with only one TC and manage 2 brews - 1 controlled and the other along for the ride. Anyone done or does this? If I am on the right wavelength Guvna and Master Brewers... am investigating same - and what I understand - if owning a one-chambered 'only fridge' - the cooling power (compressor running on electricity) controlled on and off by one temp controller (probe and power outlet) - with two FVs fitting inside the one chamber - logically both FVs will run at same temp - temp which should be pretty uniform throughout the one fridge chamber given the way standard fridges work (guess might be slightly cooler down low?) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otto Von Blotto Posted October 11, 2018 Share Posted October 11, 2018 Yep usually the higher fermenter is a bit warmer because fridges generally don't circulate the air, so the cooler air sinks. You can put a computer fan inside it to help with that though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pezzza Posted October 12, 2018 Share Posted October 12, 2018 That sounds good. Guess a hole through the fridge wall to allow internal powerpoints - could then run the plate warmer for warming if required and the mini-fan to improve circulation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Lao Posted October 13, 2018 Share Posted October 13, 2018 I have a fridge that fits 2 Coopers FVs. I have the temp probe taped to one of the FVs. When I did extract brews it was easier to get the FVs at the same temp because both brews were done at the same time and both went in the fridge at the same time, so didn’t notice much difference in temperature at all (maybe 1 degC). But now I am doing AG brews and I do one after the other so they are about 4-5 hours out, and it is a bit trickier to get the FVs to a similar temp as one will be 5 hours ahead the ferment phase etc The first time I did an AG Brew day I put the first brew in the fridge then 4-5 hours later put the second one in. The temps were about 3-4 degrees out and I ended up taking the first one out of the fridge as it was at ideal temp and just having the second one (which was too cold) in the fridge being temp controlled. It only took a couple of hours then both went back in the fridge. I think this happened because the the first one started actively fermenting and it had the probe on it so the fridge was turning on to suit this one. But the second one hadn’t started fermenting yet and was being chilled too much as there was no activity as such and it was about 15 degC and the first one was 18.5 deg. So now I don’t put the first FV in the fridge until the 2nd one is ready to go in. Still have to monitor the temps in case they start to spread too much, because I pitch the yeast as soon as I can, but it’s manageable . Cheers James Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otto Von Blotto Posted October 13, 2018 Share Posted October 13, 2018 I'd be wary of drilling holes in the fridge. If you hit a gas line it's effed. Depending on the thickness of the wires they can just go through the door and be cushioned by the door seal with no issues with temperature loss/changes. Remember, the brew temp doesn't change quickly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pezzza Posted October 13, 2018 Share Posted October 13, 2018 Cheers Brewers. Interesting re the temp differences. Will be sticking to the extract brewing for the time being which might make things a bit easier to begin with in the cooling-power-temp-control version of brewing hopefully. Yep was concerned about the gas lines - fer sher - was going to see if I could find a fridgie at work who would assist in ensuring that there was no destructive behaviours going on ; ) Otherwise as you point out OVB - through the door and cushioned by the door seal. One more question - how do "freezer only" units compare to "fridge only" in terms of efficacy for temp controlled brewing facilities - am thinking now in terms of temp control and energy use... i.e. if you could choose one or the other - which would be first pick? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otto Von Blotto Posted October 13, 2018 Share Posted October 13, 2018 I don't think it would make much difference at fermentation temps. When chilling brews though the freezers are probably more efficient, if only for likely having better insulation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Captain!! Posted October 13, 2018 Share Posted October 13, 2018 I bought my chest freezer for this precise reason. Better insulation qualities so therefore the power is turned on less. I also bought the best power efficient freezer I could buy too. I love my chesty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shamus O'Sean Posted October 13, 2018 Share Posted October 13, 2018 Good question. Freezer versus Fridge for efficiency and cost. Maybe one of our brewers who is also a fridgie mechanic can tell us for sure. I use a freezer because we had one that was not being used for anything else. It might be better insulated, but the wall thickness is about the same as a fridge. Freezers are more efficient and cost less to run, but that is when they are freezing stuff and keeping it that way. How they perform between 0 and 20 might be quite different. Cheers Shamus Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lab Cat Posted October 13, 2018 Share Posted October 13, 2018 2 hours ago, The Captain1525230099 said: I love my chesty. Strange nickname for someone, but whatever... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beerlust Posted October 14, 2018 Share Posted October 14, 2018 11 hours ago, Lab Rat said: Strange nickname for someone, but whatever... It's not as strange as you might think. Bonds between brewers & chest freezers are quite common. There is even a supporters clothing line. (Men's Chesty Bonds) Cheers, Lusty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pezzza Posted October 18, 2018 Share Posted October 18, 2018 Yes lads - bring on the Fridgies.... not been able to locate one from work... Any Brewers out there with Fridgie experience? My bent on this was the 'mild temp control' required i.e. I am not running a freezer (minus 4?) or fridge (4?) in 20-25 deg C ambient. Hence regarding compressors turning on and off - whether Fridge only or Freezer only - being turned on and off quite a bit because the work to reduce the temp was not that great from ambient - would one unit survive better or not... i.e. if it is 15-27 ambient... and I am drawing down either to 11-12 for Lager OR 22 for Ale/WB... If it's only knocking off a few degrees... for example from 27 ambient down to 22 brew temp... or from 17 ambient to 12 brew temp... the compressor would not have to run that long... is that a problem? Think my temp controller has some delay too so it does not flick on and off too fast... Anyway... be interested to see what you learned brewers think of this. And thanks lads for all the good feedback... with some laughs along on the way Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Titan Posted October 18, 2018 Share Posted October 18, 2018 I couldn't make my mind up if to reply to the above post. Was not entirely sure what the question or question were. Anyhow here is my 2 cents worth. Fridge or freezer the inbuilt temperature control will be programed to prevent the compressor kicking in every time there is a change in the internal temperature of the unit. Now add a temperature controller to the equation, because they power off the unit it interrupts the built in failsafe settings so the unit will power up as normal. Most controllers have this offset setting to mimic what has been programmed with the original control settings. Mine currently is set at 0.5 deg. The beauty of the external controller is you measure the temperature of the liquid in the fv not the temerature of the unit. This gives you finer temperature control conditions and with a proper offset does not really effect the oem rated compressor life. Infact i think compressor life will be improved. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Titan Posted October 18, 2018 Share Posted October 18, 2018 Not even sure i answered any questions haha. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shamus O'Sean Posted October 18, 2018 Share Posted October 18, 2018 2 hours ago, Titan said: Not even sure i answered any questions haha. You answered the question that was a statement. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pezzza Posted October 18, 2018 Share Posted October 18, 2018 Hey Titan - thanks for the feedback. Truly spoken Shamus. Yep. Cool. (hmmmm no pun intended ) That has put things in perspective.... good stuff. My concern was that if it is anything like SWMBO's VW Golf Car... where the starter motor just kaputted itself..... does save loadsa fuel... but turning on and off all the time the starter motor just eventually dies. And having had to replace air-conditioner compressors that were not that old. So I was concerned if my temp controller was telling the Compressor to turn on and off with monotonous regularity over a matter of a few degrees C.... with such 'fine temp control' - would a fridge compressor be able to cope better than freezer compressor. Maybe it is just a matter of total number of on-off cycles - every Compressor has 20,000 ons and offs... and then dies? dunno. I did not know whether a fridge compressor can cope with multiple ons-and-offs better than a freezer does. I would think a Freezer would turn itself on and off far less as there are far fewer people disturbing it all the time ; ) --> Fridge opening the door and altering the temp. If all these 'temp control units' = fridge/freezer things - all use the same compressors - then the question is redundant - other than maybe a freezer should be better as has better insulation. Apologies if I am going the NERD thing here.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shamus O'Sean Posted October 18, 2018 Share Posted October 18, 2018 I have read that a fridge compressor can handle more on/offs than a freezer compressor. My temperature controller is set at a temperature and I set the differential temperature for heating or cooling to kick in at 1°. Remember I use a freezer. Once I get it and the brew to the desired temperature (within half a day) it does not seem to come on that much. I think it worked harder as a freezer trying to keep everything at -4°. Cheers Shamus Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pezzza Posted October 18, 2018 Share Posted October 18, 2018 Cheers Shamus. I guess with the inherent good insulation that these fridgie-boxes have -- maybe I don't need to fret with ons/offs -- instead grab whatever comes my way and put it to good use?! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otto Von Blotto Posted October 18, 2018 Share Posted October 18, 2018 Yes if you are measuring the temp of the brew rather than ambient it actually turns on and off a lot less frequently than it does when it's just being used under normal circumstances. And that's with the difference set at 0.3 degrees. Mine on average turns on for about 6 minutes, during which time the compressor itself turns off and back on again at least once (that being done by the fridge itself), then it sits turned off for about 14 minutes before coming on again when the brew rises that 0.3 degrees. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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