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Guvna's Brew No. 3 IPA


Guvna

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Hi all,  Looking towards the next brew and crafted this (below) in beersmith today. 

Have  another week to make adjustments and improvments and interested in evryones thought and feedback.

questions are;

-should the 1 pack of Wyeast 1056 be fine in this brew of 25ltrs?            (, im not confident in attempting starters or harvesting just yet,  more question on that will come in time.)

-wondering if relying ion the TM IPA extract will be enough for bittering hence only 15 and 10 min hop boiling?

IPA.thumb.JPG.d89e624b679574567053ef8dacda60d4.JPG

please crituique accordingly again, and thanks for looking

Guvna

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It looks good. It probably doesn’t need the maltodextrin but I presume you are throwing BE3 plus 1kg LDM.

You could easily go heavier on the hops if you want it hoppier, especially the flame out and dry hop.

How fresh is the yeast? If it is reasonably fresh then you could away with it. Otherwise a 1.5 litre starter is the way to go.

 

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58 minutes ago, Guvna said:

-should the 1 pack of Wyeast 1056 be fine in this brew of 25ltrs?            (, im not confident in attempting starters or harvesting just yet,  more question on that will come in time.)

Hey mate.

25ltrs at 1.050 will be underpitched. It’ll be right on the cusp if you get fresh yeast. You’ll get beer, just not as good as it could be. If you can mix up dry extract you can do a starter. Even if it’s only a little one. 

I would also triple you dry hop. It’s an hoppy pale (sessions IPA) after all. 

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13 minutes ago, Otto Von Blotto said:

You could always chuck in a pack of US-05 as well if you're worried about it, it's the same yeast just in dry form. Saves making a starter if you're not confident in that, and saves spending on another liquid smack pack.

Otto, re the us-05 , chuck in the whole pack?  would that be too much or still work fine?

Hairy your right with the maltidextrin, in the enhancer pack. and I'll take yours and the Captains advice and hop heavier,

might even  try redesigning it from scratch. I wish they made smaller 1/2 packs of yeast , think i'll have to learn up on harvesting from my second batch where i used 1056. is there an easy way for beginners?

does using a starter mean adding more yeast or just activating the 1 packet? and same question for harvesting, do i use harvested yeast plus another packet?

 

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7 minutes ago, The Captain1525230099 said:

Very easy mate. Once you’ve bottled/legged, swirl up the last couple of litres with the yeast cake, pour it into a sanitised 500ml mason jar. Pitch the lot into next batch

Captain

That does sound easy,  will that amount -500ml be enough for my 25 ltr brew alone, or aslo add the smack pack?

so this would be harvesting and not known as a 'starter' right?

soz for dumba$$ questions, and thanks too

cheers Guv

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I agree with everyone! Yeah I would up all the hop additions. I usually dont do 15 min boils with extract kits unless I felt the bitterness was high enough. For my tastes I prefer at least 50g dry hop but if this is an IPA you should be looking at way above 5g per liter in dry hop. If that is all the hops you have then I would be moving them down to 5 minutes or flameout, depending on how much you want to increase the bitterness.

Have fun with it, your original recipes wasnt bad, but just needed some tweaking, but at the end of the day you will make what suits your tastes.

Good luck

Norris

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8 minutes ago, Guvna said:

That does sound easy,  will that amount -500ml be enough for my 25 ltr brew alone, or aslo add the smack pack?

so this would be harvesting and not known as a 'starter' right?

soz for dumba$$ questions, and thanks too

cheers Guv

That will be enough for your 25ltr brew. 

Dont worry about adding another smack pack. 

This is called the sloppy slurry method. It’s not perfect but it works. I did this for my latest stout. Slurry has been in the fridge for two months

A starter is getting the yeast past the “growth” phase and building up desired amounts of cells. Then pitching during ferment. 

Nothing is a dumb question mate 

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4 hours ago, Guvna said:

Otto, re the us-05 , chuck in the whole pack?  would that be too much or still work fine?

Hairy your right with the maltidextrin, in the enhancer pack. and I'll take yours and the Captains advice and hop heavier,

might even  try redesigning it from scratch. I wish they made smaller 1/2 packs of yeast , think i'll have to learn up on harvesting from my second batch where i used 1056. is there an easy way for beginners?

does using a starter mean adding more yeast or just activating the 1 packet? and same question for harvesting, do i use harvested yeast plus another packet?

 

Yes use the whole pack. It won't be too much and you can't really store open yeast packets well anyway. 

Making a starter is different, you make a mini wort from malt and water (no hops), pitch the yeast into it and let it ferment. This grows the cell count. I wouldn't worry about doing that yet though, just get the basics down pat first. Harvesting can be done a few ways but the captain's suggestion is probably the simplest way. 

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In reality the pitching rate is determined by the batch volume and OG of the wort. It goes up gradually; there isn't a magic number like 1.050 where you suddenly need to pitch double the yeast or something. The volume also plays a part, obviously a 25 litre batch of 1.050 OG wort is going to need more yeast than a 10 litre batch of 1.050 OG wort. Beersmith has a yeast pitching calculator built into it as well.

Adhering to recommended pitching rates your batch needs 200 billion cells to be pitched. A smack pack only contains half that, and by the time you get it some of those will be already dead as well, so it's even less than half that. The good thing about smack packs though is that little bag of wort they have inside them, which gets the yeast active and probably grows it a little as well, so you will probably get away with just pitching the smack pack into it. Just make sure to burst the inner bag and let the smack pack swell up before pitching into the batch.

I know a fair few people say that you can under pitch by that kind of rate and the beer will turn out just as good, but that hasn't been my experience. Getting as close as I can at home to the optimum pitching rates has definitely improved my beers, not only in flavor but consistency of quality and predictability of fermentation.

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3 hours ago, Otto Von Blotto said:

Getting as close as I can at home to the optimum pitching rates has definitely improved my beers, not only in flavor but consistency of quality and predictability of fermentation.

I’ll second above. Pitching a good amount of healthy yeast has improved my beers ten fold. And the added bonus is that it ferments quicker than previous beers. 

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So decision time is closing in, 2nd brew is forcast for kegging on sunday and fermenter shall be filled same day.

I'd rather aim for 25 ltrs or more if possible in the 30ltr FV given its takes weeks to be ready and I happen to love beer.

Assuming that the Coopers IPA will come with a yeast pack, I am considering using another pack, say nottingham or us05 dry or maybe the 1056 as well. ( 2 different yeast packs)

Icould also use 2 dry yeast packs if thats a better way to go?

Is this a good idea mixing yeast types? it could allow me to make a higher volume and abv,   

If its unwise I could aim for say 21ltrs, with a lower OG and just use 1 yeast pack?

anyone wish to steer me in the right direction ?

regards

Guvna

 

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After further tweaking, I put this down on Saturday, and its going Nutz, struggle to keep fluid in the airlock

133737072_IPA4.JPG.d562fc510854bffcb940bc144f583655.JPG

I intend on doubling the mosaic dry hopping to 80g and maybe some more cascade too.  would it be wise to put some sanitised glad wrap on thge airlock loosely?

I did have to change fermentables at the last minute using a coopers be2 pack instead of a 500gm DME, hopefully this one turn out big and juicy.

Cheers Guvna.

The Krausen is an inch high. looking back,  I reckon my previous 2 brews were slightly underpitched, this one is way more agro

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5 minutes ago, Otto Von Blotto said:

No need to gladwrap the airlock, whatever comes out of it isn't going back in anyway. You could remove it and give it a clean though if you want. 

Hi Otto, so far wort or coloured liquid has Not made it to the airlock. there is just a few ml od starsan staying in the bottom bend. tried topping up 5-6 times this evening but within a few mins it all foams out? Do you think i should just leave it until the peak ferment slows down?  its going hard and has a real nice frothy krausen, only been 30 hours

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3 minutes ago, Otto Von Blotto said:

I'd leave it for now. It'll probably calm down in 2-3 days. US-05 doesn't usually produce huge krausen so it may not ever reach the airlock. 

ended up us 2 packs of Nottingham ,  change anything?

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