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Aldi's Flensburger wheat and Pilsner


therealthing691

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6 hours ago, Otto Von Blotto said:

Nothing wrong with rain water if it's sanitary. We have a tank too but I'm dubious of its cleanliness, and even though I do 75+ minute boils I still don't trust that some nasty shit won't somehow survive that process. I suppose it could be disinfected with potassium metabisulphite, but I really can't be arsed. 

All grain isn't always great either, if the wort is poorly brewed, the fermentation done badly or the recipe is crap then the beer will be as well. But using decent processes and good recipes, it is a step up in quality from kits in my opinion, based only on my own experience moving from kits/extract brewing to all grain. I don't believe that good or great beers can't be made from kits, but I did notice all grain produced a fresher tasting beer.

Cheers OVB - re rainwater - fortunately am "out in the paddock" now and reckon what is coming in from the skies around here should be ok - if it actually blllllllardy does come at all............ maybe a bit of "phos-phos" enrichment from the birdshitttt ?!   ?

The bird-shittters seem happier to sit on the drainpipes leading to the tanks and shitttt all over them rather than the roof... so that is good.  Glad that roos and the wombats cannot climb !?! ?

Phew.  Well not at this stage anyway!

Festive lad helped me out recently install an in-line particulate filter and activated carbon in-line and the 'dodgy Mongrel Lager' worked out a treat... so am hoping things should continue ok.  

Thinking Wheat next and then Dark... all Ale yeasts.  Am quite concerned if I move across to lengthy cool temp (need yet to organise refridge capability) that I might 'run aground' regards infection with the lengthier less intensive brewing conditions and possible competition for the yeasts? 

 

 

 

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6 hours ago, DonPolo said:

Excellent looking beer! I don't seem to have any trouble at all getting the labels off. Although it was not my intention to remove the labels, they just came straight off with a reasonably warm (not hot) soaking in a per solution when I was cleaning the bottles. 

Gold. Will give it a run!  They are truly splendid bottles - am glad you chaps put me on the right track.  Only shame is that they are rather small and I have a poultice of them...

Wish they were all 750s or Litre fellas ?

Yeah for a 'dirty old can beer' (for those Pogues fans.... sung to the tune of 'Dirty Old Town') it came up trumps (not Donald).  Temp control was really helpful.  

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1 minute ago, Otto Von Blotto said:

I'm not worried about what comes from the sky, just what's likely lurking inside the tank itself. ?

Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaah truly spoken.  And I won't bog you brewers down with my major major epic journey about my house tanks and siphon feed from the Shed tank ? faaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaar out.

Took 12 months to sort out...  major drought issues involved... anyway... all pipelines are now sealed and no possibilities for siphon back... and me festive lad cleaned all the tanks out and tidied things up.  And at this point no creatures can gain access...mmm well at least those greater than the sieve sizes ; )

I have not sent the water off for microbial analysis... but superior detection device (nose and mouth) says it is certainly a lot better than it was - and the recent Ale Yeast Beer result was excellent.

Do you think if I move to Lager and cold extended brew times I will need to boil the feed water?  Guess if I get a decent enough sized stainlesss steel pot it is not that hard hey?

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7 hours ago, Otto Von Blotto said:

All grain isn't always great either, if the wort is poorly brewed, the fermentation done badly or the recipe is crap then the beer will be as well. But using decent processes and good recipes, it is a step up in quality from kits in my opinion, based only on my own experience moving from kits/extract brewing to all grain. I don't believe that good or great beers can't be made from kits, but I did notice all grain produced a fresher tasting beer.

................. I hope one day to be able to determine this from experience myself...  : )

I honestly believe that the nuanced flavours of Reinheitsgebot beer (all grain)  MUST be lost in doing the moisture reduction process to the Concentrates (which are good by all means don't get me wrong)... but I reckon you will be on the right track... next step up is all grain... and no boiling the shittttter out of it to make it into a syrup.

In the meantime... I'll keep the continuous improvement process going with the Concentrate and Dry Malt brewing and downsizing on the Dex.... improve my temp control... and work on from there.

Can you possibly point me in the right direction re wtf to do with the Cold Brewing Lager Yeast process - some sort of road-map somewhere - with all this diacetyl rests and all that...  is there something on our site here - or on the web - that will assist - with a step by step indication of the best way to go with a Cold Temp Bottom Fermenting Yeast in the PFV and then in bottles?

I am hoping a refridge-device is on the horizon early next year.

 

 

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This is the fermentation schedule I use for my lagers:

Pitch a large amount of yeast at or close to ferment temp (higher or lower). I usually ferment at 10 degrees.

After 6 days: raise temp controller to 18 and let the brew rise naturally, which usually takes a couple of days (diacetyl rest)*

After 10 days: test SG, again two days later. Most batches these readings are the same.

After 14 days: drop temp to 12 degrees, then 2.2/2.3 degrees per day until it reaches 3 degrees. This sends the yeast into cleanup mode. 

Then simply leave it at 3 degrees for another 7-10 days, then bottle or keg. If bottling, allow them to warm up for carbonation, once completed chill down and store for another couple of months if possible. 

*This temp rise is governed by the SG rather than time, it just usually happens after 6 days. I do it when the brew is half the OG, but not halfway to FG. For example, if it starts at 1.050, then the temp rise can begin when it hits 1.025. I normally take a reading after 5 days, but it's often not low enough to raise the temp yet so I just give it an extra day.

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11 hours ago, Otto Von Blotto said:

This is the fermentation schedule I use for my lagers:

Wow!

Thank you v v much Otto!

That's Gold.

Bllllllllllllllllllllaaardy Beeyooodiful!!!  Woohoo.  That gives me a bit more confidence in being able to climb the Cold Temp Lager Mt Everest ahead of me ?

Couple more questions:

1.  Did you reckon I should boil my rainwater re organisms competing w Lager Yeasts over the long ferment that will take place.... safety first?  (my current Mongrel Lager w Coopers Can Ale yeast - no boiling)

And as I rinse everything w rainwater - do I need to introduce the sanitiser in the final PFV rinse do you think?

2. What temp for Secondary Ferment in Bottles?  And just carbo drops? 

The Mongrel Lager carbonation worked a treat w carbo drops: 1 in  330ml Aldi Flens Swing/2 in Coopers 750s.  And Temp around 22 deg C.

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If you're worried about the water you can boil it yes. It's up to you.

Personally I'd use a no rinse sanitiser, however rinsing out the fermenter with boiling water would work as well. 

Bottles can be kept at any temp really (not too high of course), being lager yeast it will work at lower temperatures than ale yeast so keeping them above 18 isn't crucial. When I was bottling I brewed lagers over the winter for this reason. I'd just go the carb drops if it's easier. 

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17 hours ago, Bearded Burbler said:

Gold. Will give it a run!  They are truly splendid bottles - am glad you chaps put me on the right track.  Only shame is that they are rather small and I have a poultice of them...

Wish they were all 750s or Litre fellas ?

Yeah for a 'dirty old can beer' (for those Pogues fans.... sung to the tune of 'Dirty Old Town') it came up trumps (not Donald).  Temp control was really helpful.  

i just noticed a type re the labels. I wrote "... per " rather than "perc" for sodium percarbonate. Anyway I hope you go well. I also agree about the size. Having mostly bottled in PET 700ml bottles previously, it does get a bit tedious to bottle and find bench space for the increased number of 330ml bottles. But hey, first world problem. The vast majority of brewers out there who bottle are doing so in smaller vessels! ? 

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26 minutes ago, DonPolo said:

 "perc" for sodium percarbonate. ... But hey, first world problem. The vast majority of brewers out there who bottle are doing so in smaller vessels! ? 

Cheers DP - Agreed! 

...Per/Perc - all good - suspected same.

And I think the littlies will be great for Hefeweizen too... I just like the lager style without too much yeast on board... so bigger 750s you get a lot of 'yeast free' beer.

A bit more washing up but hey 'them's the breaks' - they are great glass bottles with their own sealing mechanism... a true lesson in recycling and positive resource use.

 ;  )

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9 hours ago, Bearded Burbler said:

Cheers DP - Agreed! 

...Per/Perc - all good - suspected same.

And I think the littlies will be great for Hefeweizen too... I just like the lager style without too much yeast on board... so bigger 750s you get a lot of 'yeast free' beer.

A bit more washing up but hey 'them's the breaks' - they are great glass bottles with their own sealing mechanism... a true lesson in recycling and positive resource use.

 

 ;  )

 

Recycling - exactly. Why is it that for some people (i.e. my ex) recycling = tightwad/cheap. Seriously can't we have win/win it this world? So yes, recycling = tightwad/cheap but it also means as a happy consequence that tightwad/cheap = environmentally responsible!

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21 hours ago, DonPolo said:

Recycling - exactly. Why is it that for some people (i.e. my ex) recycling = tightwad/cheap. Seriously can't we have win/win it this world? So yes, recycling = tightwad/cheap but it also means as a happy consequence that tightwad/cheap = environmentally responsible!

GOLD DP.   German beer has been doing it for years... 

This is a cracking story in Bochum - where the brewer was saying - hey dear customers - please bring your bottles back otherwise there will be no more beer as we cannot get the new bottle supplies fast enough... 

https://www.dw.com/en/german-beer-producers-running-out-of-bottles/a-44778328

Or as HofBraeuhaus in Munich did - yer not getting anymore beer unless you bring your bottles back:

 In the summer of 2012, for instance, Munich's famous Hofbräu sold full bottles of beer only to people who brought back empty ones..

Now that's cool!  And that is what we brewers do ;  )

 

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On 10/20/2018 at 12:24 PM, Otto Von Blotto said:

 We have a tank too...

No"too" where I am... tank is is all I have...   tankwater or no water.

So guess if I wanna do something with a bit more hardness in the water - would have to augment?

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Just put some minerals in it. A few you can get at the supermarket like salt, bicarb soda and Epsom salts but the others (calcium chloride, chalk and gypsum) are probably best bought at a brew shop. The amounts of each vary with style. Not sure how much effect it has with kits though as I never did it back when I was brewing with them.

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