Malter White Posted August 1, 2018 Share Posted August 1, 2018 Hey DA, I hope your brew turns out well. If it doesn't at least it looks good. Those swing top bottles look great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackgym Posted August 3, 2018 Share Posted August 3, 2018 On 8/1/2018 at 9:30 PM, Depthangel said: It’s done all bottled and packed away now 41 500ml bottles I got in the end very happy Nice supply there mate! Just looking at the clear bottles, it's better to keep them in a dark place to avoid them becoming "light struck". Some brewers call it "skunked". That may cause the beer to taste like wet cardboard. In fact, I store all my bottles (even brown bottles) in a dark cupboard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otto Von Blotto Posted August 3, 2018 Share Posted August 3, 2018 Wet cardboard is oxidation. Skunked is just that, like a skunk odour. Different causes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Depthangel Posted August 3, 2018 Author Share Posted August 3, 2018 @jackgym @Otto Von Blotto hi jack thank you really proud of how it came out, they are in a dark cupboard, but found it hard to take the pic with the door shut Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hairy Posted August 3, 2018 Share Posted August 3, 2018 5 hours ago, Depthangel said: hi jack Don’t say that on a plane. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Depthangel Posted August 3, 2018 Author Share Posted August 3, 2018 14 minutes ago, Hairy said: Don’t say that on a plane. It’s like saying ‘do you mind if I push your stool in’ when at a gay bar ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malter White Posted August 3, 2018 Share Posted August 3, 2018 I once greeted a health inspector with, "Hi Gene." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackgym Posted August 3, 2018 Share Posted August 3, 2018 13 hours ago, Depthangel said: @jackgym @Otto Von Blotto hi jack thank you really proud of how it came out, they are in a dark cupboard, but found it hard to take the pic with the door shut Good onya mate. Hope thay taste as good as they look. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackgym Posted August 3, 2018 Share Posted August 3, 2018 14 hours ago, Otto Von Blotto said: Wet cardboard is oxidation. Skunked is just that, like a skunk odour. Different causes. I haven't been close enough to a skunk to know the difference, lmao! Wet cardboard is how it smells and tastes to me. Exposure to ultra-violet light causes the alpha acids in hops to react in the beer. Or to be more specific, the hop-derived molecules in the beer will break apart and recombine with a sulfuric compound. This will cause the wet cardboard taste and bad smell from the beer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr. Hackenbushel Posted August 3, 2018 Share Posted August 3, 2018 I wouldn't know... I've never brewed a bad beer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otto Von Blotto Posted August 4, 2018 Share Posted August 4, 2018 I know how it's caused, it just doesn't usually result in wet cardboard tastes, oxidation causes that. Of course it's entirely possible that a beer could be both light struck and oxidised at the same time. I've never been near a skunk either but I'd imagine it's a lot worse than wet cardboard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeB7 Posted August 4, 2018 Share Posted August 4, 2018 Gday All, Just did my first home brew with a pale ale from country brewer with a hop tea bag and left it for 13 days before bottling as I'm a newb-brewed-dood Temp varied between 19-25C. It was under the house (large man cave area) in 14-15C ambient and I reckon FG was reached about 7 days in, but I allowed it to sit until it stopped venting good & proper. Some of the more experienced of you talk about leaving the brew in the wort after a FG has been achieved to allow the yeast to "clean up". What does this mean exactly? How long is too long for it to 'clean'? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malter White Posted August 4, 2018 Share Posted August 4, 2018 13 hours ago, JoeB7 said: Some of the more experienced of you talk about leaving the brew in the wort after a FG has been achieved to allow the yeast to "clean up". What does this mean exactly? How long is too long for it to 'clean'? I'm still learning and eager to know the answer to this question too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackgym Posted August 4, 2018 Share Posted August 4, 2018 21 hours ago, Otto Von Blotto said: I know how it's caused, it just doesn't usually result in wet cardboard tastes, oxidation causes that. Of course it's entirely possible that a beer could be both light struck and oxidised at the same time. I've never been near a skunk either but I'd imagine it's a lot worse than wet cardboard No, exposure to light causes a wet cardboard taste. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hairy Posted August 4, 2018 Share Posted August 4, 2018 Lightstruck https://beerandbrewing.com/dictionary/eIXf22Zwnt/lightstruck/ Oxidation https://beerandbrewing.com/dictionary/l9v9PEb7Gl/oxidation/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otto Von Blotto Posted August 4, 2018 Share Posted August 4, 2018 18 minutes ago, jackgym said: No, exposure to light causes a wet cardboard taste. Nonsense. Perhaps you should re-research it. Wet cardboard is caused by oxidation not light strike. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackgym Posted August 4, 2018 Share Posted August 4, 2018 32 minutes ago, Hairy said: Lightstruck https://beerandbrewing.com/dictionary/eIXf22Zwnt/lightstruck/ Oxidation https://beerandbrewing.com/dictionary/l9v9PEb7Gl/oxidation/ It seems I've been proven wrong Reading the wrong info. I stand corrected Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norris! Posted August 5, 2018 Share Posted August 5, 2018 15 hours ago, JoeB7 said: Gday All, Just did my first home brew with a pale ale from country brewer with a hop tea bag and left it for 13 days before bottling as I'm a newb-brewed-dood Temp varied between 19-25C. It was under the house (large man cave area) in 14-15C ambient and I reckon FG was reached about 7 days in, but I allowed it to sit until it stopped venting good & proper. Some of the more experienced of you talk about leaving the brew in the wort after a FG has been achieved to allow the yeast to "clean up". What does this mean exactly? How long is too long for it to 'clean'? This is a pretty deep question but I will try to shed some light on it. The reasons why I let the beer sit for a few days after FG has been reached is because the yeast is constantly working to convert sugars into alchohol, while it is doing this and other things it also converts some unwanted compounds like diacetyl and acheydrhlyte(yeah that is misspelled) into nice tasting compounds. This can occur during any phase but I believe it is most likely to occur after the yeast has done the easy work of converting sugars and then starts working on the other compounds. For me the first 3 days are the most important for fermentation as the off flavours will develop here due to high temperatures or lack of yeast cell count leading to esters and bad growth cycles of the yeast. I will raise the temp a few degrees once FG is within 25% complete, this allows the yeast to eat up those diacetyl compounds. If you are pitching enough yeast and keeping good temperature control the cleaning up phase shouldn't really be needed, but it doesn't hurt and in my opinion brings more benefits than takeaways. I used to leave my beers on the yeast for 14 days due to bottling times, I now dump it in the keg 3 to 5 days after FG has been reached, due to dry hopping schedule and timing. You need to figure out what works best in your brewery. If you are getting off flavours then address that issue. So in conclusion I use those few days to let the yeast clean up to help ensure that off flavours are removed but if I have not pitched enough yeast or controlled temperatures then no time frame or clean up period will help. The extra days to clean up are an insurance policy that will help for minor issues of fermentation that can cause off flavours. Cheers Norris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malter White Posted August 5, 2018 Share Posted August 5, 2018 Thanks Norris. Even a dumba... like me could understand that answer. Very helpful. I wouldn't know if you misspelled acheybreakyheartlyte anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malter White Posted August 5, 2018 Share Posted August 5, 2018 1 hour ago, Hairy said: Oxidation https://beerandbrewing.com/dictionary/l9v9PEb7Gl/oxidation/ Thanks for those links, Hairy. Knowledge is power. I'm still K&K brewing in the Coopers FV. I get that oxygen is bad. However when I'm bottling I make the lid of the FV ajar to assist flow. Would you recommend I leave the lid in it's place and bottle with a slower flow to reduce oxygen contamination or do you think the ajar lid would only make a negligible difference to oxygen levels? I haven't had any bad batches yet but I'm happy to take the slower method to minimise the chances of that happening in the future. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hairy Posted August 5, 2018 Share Posted August 5, 2018 20 minutes ago, MUZZY said: Thanks for those links, Hairy. Knowledge is power. I'm still K&K brewing in the Coopers FV. I get that oxygen is bad. However when I'm bottling I make the lid of the FV ajar to assist flow. Would you recommend I leave the lid in it's place and bottle with a slower flow to reduce oxygen contamination or do you think the ajar lid would only make a negligible difference to oxygen levels? I haven't had any bad batches yet but I'm happy to take the slower method to minimise the chances of that happening in the future. That is fine. You need to leave it ajar. Just don’t take the lid fully off so that you can keep dust and other things out. Oxidation would be caused by splashing the beer. Avoid splashing and it will be fine. Also, bottling involves secondary fermentation so I would presume a little oxygen would be mopped up during that process. Best to avoid it as much as possible though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malter White Posted August 5, 2018 Share Posted August 5, 2018 Cheers Champion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeB7 Posted August 5, 2018 Share Posted August 5, 2018 58 minutes ago, Norris! said: ... If you are pitching enough yeast and keeping good temperature control the cleaning up phase shouldn't really be needed, but it doesn't hurt and in my opinion brings more benefits than takeaways..... So in conclusion I use those few days to let the yeast clean up to help ensure that off flavours are removed but if I have not pitched enough yeast or controlled temperatures then no time frame or clean up period will help. The extra days to clean up are an insurance policy that will help for minor issues of fermentation that can cause off flavours. Cheers Norris Thanks Norris. Agree with Muzzy about your simple explanation for us newbs. I've wired up a T/stat for my heat pad now so able to keep a good 20.5-23C temp. Yeast is what comes with the can so I'm at the mercy of their calculations. Will taste test around the end of August & see how pallatable it is/isn't Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norris! Posted August 5, 2018 Share Posted August 5, 2018 @JoeB7 I wouldn't stress too much. You had the nice cool weather to help out, so it should be ok, but huge temperature fluctuations dont help the end product. There is a triangle of making good beer, fresh ingredients, good sanitation and temp control should lead to good beer. You can start to switch out the yeast from the can with a another store bought yeast like mangrove Jack's or imperial yeasts. Keep good notes and maybe if you like the beer, try the same kit but with a different yeast to see the flavours it adds or removes. While I like coopers yeast sometimes 7grams is not enough unless you rehydrate. I would be looking at hops to add to your next brew. Dry hopping is simple, drop the hops in after FG has been reached and bottle 3 or so days later. It improves the beer by adding aroma and some flavour. It is a simple way to make a so so beer good. Another simple method, which I used to avoid but now see some great benefits from it, is hop tea added at bottling or to the keg. Take some hops and make a tea and add it to the bottling bucket when you bulk prime or add it to a keg which has lost some aroma. Welcome to the rabbit hole, Norris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeB7 Posted August 8, 2018 Share Posted August 8, 2018 On 8/5/2018 at 12:21 PM, Norris! said: I would be looking at hops to add to your next brew. Dry hopping is simple, drop the hops in after FG has been reached and bottle 3 or so days later. It improves the beer by adding aroma and some flavour. Norris... thanks mate for the ideas. I am reluctant to open up my FV to dry hop before bottling as my under the house atmosphere has some musty issues at present (I'm on a crusade to remedy this). I shall only be a 'can' recipe brewer until I'm fluent with the 'KISS' brewing techniques, but your suggestion of yeast tinkering with cans does intrigue. Any quick reference charts or tables to reference for my next attempt? Welcome to the WOMBAT hole Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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