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Please critique my first Brew recipe


Guvna

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Howdy all , new to site and to brewing.

Made my first yesterday after weeks of reading, its bubbling away after 24 hours.

Please take a look at my recipe and say whatvere you think, good or bad all appreciated.

regards Guvna

recipe attached

 

GP AA 1.pdf

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22 minutes ago, Otto Von Blotto said:

Looks fine. Just make sure not to leave the galaxy dry hops in too long as they can result in grassy tones. I'd put them in 2-3 days before you bottle it. 

Thanks for reply mate.  bit nervous of aiming to high for starters, 25 ltrs and bits n pieces i made with beer software, seemed easy on the computer, but took me hours to make?

anyhow so far so good, lots to learn.

I stuffed up when typing dry hopping, thought it was start dry hop at 10 days out of 14, hope thats sound right?

cheers

Guvna

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Do you have a brew fridge with temp control?

I would raise the temp to 22'C after 3-4 days to help it on its way.

Note you have bottling at 7.2'C, not sure where this is coming from?, to warm for a cold crash, which would want to be around 2'C for 5-7days after FG is reached & dry hopping.

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13 minutes ago, Mikes15 said:

Do you have a brew fridge with temp control?

I would raise the temp to 22'C after 3-4 days to help it on its way.

Note you have bottling at 7.2'C, not sure where this is coming from?, to warm for a cold crash, which would want to be around 2'C for 5-7days after FG is reached & dry hopping.

H Mike, appreciated the advice, feel free keep it coming, I'm eager to learn.

I didnt  know about the temps for bottling etc.  I do have an itc308 hook up to fridge with a heat wrap too.  day 2 atm at 19'C,  its nottingham yeast so hopefully that temp is ok, maybe could have gone a bit cooler?

I have 1 keg and expect to get a few longnecks too so I have a couple of weeks to learn up.

thanks and regards

Guvna

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12 hours ago, Otto Von Blotto said:

Just make sure not to leave the galaxy dry hops in too long as they can result in grassy tones. I'd put them in 2-3 days before you bottle

That's a bit over-cautious I'd say. I've left Galaxy in for 5-6 days with no grassy tones

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Nothing wrong with being over cautious. Dry hops don't need any longer than that to do their thing anyway. I only leave them in longer because I can't be arsed fishing them out or I've thrown them in commando.

7 degrees is pretty warm for a keg too, but any bottles should be kept above 18 for 2-3 weeks so they can carbonate. 

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It depends on your set up. If you've got a fridge to ferment in you can crash chill it a few days after it reaches FG down to as close to zero as you can get. Leave it down there for a week then keg and bottle it. Alternatively you can simply leave it up at ferment temps and keg and bottle it a few days after it reaches FG. I don't work off rigid timeframes like "leave it for 14 days in the fermenter", I base it all on how quickly it ferments out, e.g. if it reaches FG in 4 days, there's nothing to be gained leaving it sitting at 20 degrees in the fermenter for another 10 days. It probably won't do it any harm but it's just wasted time. In that scenario you would leave it for another 4-5 days as that's all it needs (8-9 days total), then either keg/bottle it or drop it to zero and keg/bottle it a week later.

The keg can just be kept at normal fridge temps or however cold you want it but the bottles will have to be warmed up above 18 for a few weeks in order to carbonate properly.

I have my keg fridge set to -1. I don't know if it gets that low but the beer is a good temperature to enjoy once it comes out of the tap, probably somewhere between 2-4 degrees. Some people get a bit shocked at it being set so low, but to my mind it's how it is in the glass that's important, not so much what temp the fridge is set to to achieve that.

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TBH without looking it up I dont know what temp that yeast can take but Ale yeasts Ive used go to around the mid 20's ok.

Are you bulk priming? - If not I would strongly recommend you to get a second FV or such to be able to do so, you'll get a major reduction in your sediment carry over (even with cold crashing) obviously for the bottles not the keg.

Also, use the Brewing Temp to calculate the priming sugar amount not the finishing temp i.e. 1 - 2'C, I go 2'C as my fridge freezes the beer in the FV any lower than that ?

PS, Welcome to the Forum Guv!!

 

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1 hour ago, Mikes15 said:

TBH without looking it up I dont know what temp that yeast can take but Ale yeasts Ive used go to around the mid 20's ok.

Are you bulk priming? - If not I would strongly recommend you to get a second FV or such to be able to do so, you'll get a major reduction in your sediment carry over (even with cold crashing) obviously for the bottles not the keg.

Also, use the Brewing Temp to calculate the priming sugar amount not the finishing temp i.e. 1 - 2'C, I go 2'C as my fridge freezes the beer in the FV any lower than that ?

PS, Welcome to the Forum Guv!!

 

Cheers Mate, forum looks good and active.

Hadnt considered or know much about bulk priming.  thought id start out with carb drops in bottles only. then as i got excited i impulsivly bought 1 keg and co2 etc. really just wingin Mike.

When i do get a second FV, prolly just fill that with more beer ?.  I say i need more stuff, missus says no..

thanks everyone for the advise so far

 

cheers

Guvna

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If I decide to use coopers carb drops for a few 750ml glass longys after keg is full,  and based on my brew - amber ale, how many should i use? 1 , 1.5, or 2?

are there different sizes available? 

cheers

Guv

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Hi Guvna, & welcome to the forum.

3 hours ago, Guvna said:

If I decide to use coopers carb drops for a few 750ml glass longys after keg is full,  and based on my brew - amber ale, how many should i use? 1 , 1.5, or 2?

are there different sizes available? 

Without getting overly complicated when naturally carbonating, how long you plan to store them before consuming them does seem to play a part on how you should prime them in a lot of cases to avoid over-carbonated beer especially with aged beer.

You'd be a bold brewer to give exact working dosages across all beer styles that work perfectly all the time so I won't dare suggest one. If you plan to drink them early (within 2-3 months of bottling) priming with 2 carb drops is fine in most scenarios, but it is advisable to look at lowering the priming rate gradually beyond a 3-4 month ageing point the longer you plan to age the beer before consumption.

Just my 2 cents.

Lusty.

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cheers Lusty, Norris, Otto, appreciate the feedback. Pretty sure I'll struggle with the ageing past 2-3 months early on, maybe if all go's well and more equipment comes along to ramp up volumes,. I do get quite thirsty at times. Also was reading the hop flavour and aroma is best early on, guess I'll find out in time how long = 'early on'

happy days

Guvna 

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The ageing period depends on the style, and I suppose your tastebuds as well. Generally, hoppy beers are better early before the hops fade, while strong ales and other dark beers like stouts can be aged for a year or two before they hit their peak. Ambers are probably best around 2-3 months but there's nothing to say they have to be aged for certain periods before you drink them.

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Quick question on dry hopping this brew of mine,. Planning on adding maybe 15g galaxy dry into the 25ltr amber and aiming to allow for approx 4 days @ 19'c. Next will be a 5 day cold crash @ 1-2 'c. Does this mean I have dry hopped for 4 days only or 9 days with cc included? Is 9 day with hops in too long. I was planning on leaving the hops in commando style.

thanks in advance Guvna

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