porschemad911 Posted July 1, 2018 Share Posted July 1, 2018 Weird, wrong thread. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otto Von Blotto Posted July 1, 2018 Share Posted July 1, 2018 I'd agree that two identical batches brewed on identical systems with identical processes would likely show little if any variance. Obviously those cats complaining about shitty efficiency aren't doing things the same as I am. I don't believe software can accurately predict it for everyone based on theoretical numbers because everyone brews a bit differently to everyone else and gets different results. It's very good once you have some consistent real world figures to work with though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Captain!! Posted July 1, 2018 Share Posted July 1, 2018 8 hours ago, Otto Von Blotto said: I'd agree that two identical batches brewed on identical systems with identical processes would likely show little if any variance. Obviously those cats complaining about shitty efficiency aren't doing things the same as I am. I don't believe software can accurately predict it for everyone based on theoretical numbers because everyone brews a bit differently to everyone else and gets different results. It's very good once you have some consistent real world figures to work with though. Agree. And at the same altitudes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Worthog Posted July 2, 2018 Share Posted July 2, 2018 On 6/28/2018 at 12:21 PM, porschemad911 said: Hi Worthog, I would just boil your 15 min Chinook hop addition with your mash runnings, then do the Cascade hop tea the next day. You'll get better hop utilization doing this. If you do this, expect a 1.052 OG 48 IBU pre-fermentation once everything is diluted to 23 litres. I've attached the calcs for the mash and boil portion (assuming a 0.6 l/kg grain absorption which is fairly typical for BIAB in my experience, 2.5 l/h boil-off, zero lautering loss and post-boil loss). A quick summary - 8.3 litres end-of-boil volume, 1.084 SG, 63.4 IBU = 1.030 SG, 22.9 IBU diluted to 23 litres, then the APA kit adds 22 gravity points and 25.1 IBU when diluted to 23 litres. Cheers, John brew_calc_biab.xlsx Well the partial mash seemed to go ok. I steeped the 3.4kg of a mix of 4 grains in 11 litres of water set to 70c, then held at 65c for 60m, drained 30m and removed bag, then boiled 60m, 40g Chinook for last 15m and half a whirlfloc for 10m. The only issue I had was; I cooled the wort pot in an ice bath, and stirred it to cool it more quickly. I think that stuffed up the whirlfoc process, being that it would have left crap at the bottom if I hadn’t stirred. When I sieved it into the FV I got a fair bit of the fluffy stuff through into the FV. I couldn’t just leave the final little bit at the bottom with the rubbish, although most dregs were filtered out. The rest of the process went ok. OG 1.048, ferment start temp 18c. I hope I get a beer out of it, fingers crossed. Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otto Von Blotto Posted July 2, 2018 Share Posted July 2, 2018 You'll get beer. It'll probably even taste fine. Keeping the kettle crap out is better, but if you drink it reasonably early you shouldn't notice any problems with it. I'd try a quarter of a whirlfloc if you do any more batches with that size boil. If you use too much of it, it tends to make that trub really fluffy and it doesn't settle out properly. Half is the usual dose for a 30odd litre boil. You could use brewbrite which is easier to measure out for different sized boils. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hairy Posted July 2, 2018 Share Posted July 2, 2018 I used to do this with partials. I used the 19 litre Big W pot which didn’t have a tap. After chilling I would pour it into the FV through a sieve. Even after using whirfloc correctly the pouring action would stir it up. The sieve would catch most of it, especially hop matter, but some of the rest of the ‘fluffy’ stuff got through. It may not be best practice but the beer was fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Worthog Posted July 2, 2018 Share Posted July 2, 2018 Exactly what I did, Hairy. So my beer might be ok. Ta. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Worthog Posted July 3, 2018 Share Posted July 3, 2018 Quick update; Percolating well with good krausen 20hrs in. I used 2 x 7g Coopers Kit(int) Yeast. Hopefully the ale/lager mixed yeast will help with carbonation during these colder months. Cheers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Worthog Posted July 7, 2018 Share Posted July 7, 2018 I'm going to be brewing another batch this week, similar to last one above. I have a question regarding the mash; Last time I mixed all the grains together, ie base grains and specialty grains, and they all got the 60m steep at 65c. This time I'm wondering if I should add the specialty grains into the steep at the 30m mark so they only get 30m, or is it not really a problem for the specialty grains to get the full 60m? Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hairy Posted July 7, 2018 Share Posted July 7, 2018 Put them all in at the same time and mash for the full 60 minutes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otto Von Blotto Posted July 7, 2018 Share Posted July 7, 2018 What hairy said. I don't bother with separate steeps for speciality grains or overnight steeps for dark malts when making porters and stouts either. It all gets mashed together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
therealthing691 Posted July 9, 2018 Author Share Posted July 9, 2018 Well did my first all grain 5 kg maris otter and Citra 20g fwh and 20g hot cubed smelt and tasted nice when I took the og when putting it in the fermenter .Did a few things I could improve but all in all very pleased Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
therealthing691 Posted July 9, 2018 Author Share Posted July 9, 2018 A question maris otter to golden promise is there much difference in the 2 grains???? thanks cheers Brian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hairy Posted July 9, 2018 Share Posted July 9, 2018 Yes. I find Maris Otter to be more biscuitty and lighter. Golden Promise seems to have a sweeter taste to it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
therealthing691 Posted July 9, 2018 Author Share Posted July 9, 2018 11 minutes ago, Hairy said: Yes. I find Maris Otter to be more biscuitty and lighter. Golden Promise seems to have a sweeter taste to it. Thanks Hairy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
therealthing691 Posted July 9, 2018 Author Share Posted July 9, 2018 I just checked on Brewers friend its says I got 65% Brewhouse efficiency is that good or bad .I don't think its that bad for a first try .It was done in a robobrew full volume no sparge but recirculated the hole mash . Thanks in advance Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hairy Posted July 9, 2018 Share Posted July 9, 2018 6 minutes ago, therealthing691 said: I just checked on Brewers friend its says I got 65% Brewhouse efficiency is that good or bad .I don't think its that bad for a first try .It was done in a robobrew full volume no sparge but recirculated the hole mash . Thanks in advance That’s OK. Unless you get something ridiculously low then it is fine. The most important thing is consistency. i hit 75% brewhouse efficiency on my system for my regular beers. I could probably tweak a few things to increase it but I would rather be able to hit the same % each time. The difference is just a little bit of grain. You will probably increase your efficiency a little once you work out your system etc. but it isn’t the biggest deal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
therealthing691 Posted July 9, 2018 Author Share Posted July 9, 2018 cool I was thinking 75ish was the norm but as you said a more grain isn't a big thing I am writing down everything so all I can is enjoy and improve thanks Hairy Cheers Brian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Worthog Posted July 10, 2018 Share Posted July 10, 2018 I now have a pot in which I can steep just over 5kg of grain in around 16 to 18 litres of water. After steep, I can get that amount of wort to the boil with lid on, over 40m, but I can only maintain a simmer, or around 96-97c for the hour given size of my gas ring, with lid off. Is this hot enough for boil of wort and hops? Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otto Von Blotto Posted July 10, 2018 Share Posted July 10, 2018 A proper rolling boil is the desired way of doing it. You don't really want to boil it with the lid on, but perhaps you could try boiling it with the lid half on. That temp is probably fine for hopping but there's other reasons for boiling wort than just adding hops, these things may or may not be adequately achieved with a simmer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Captain!! Posted July 10, 2018 Share Posted July 10, 2018 +1 for Kelsey’s comments. You definitely want the lid off. You need to release the bad chemical compounds with a vigorous boil. Unfortunately even with the lid half on, you won’t get all of it removed as it’ll drip back into the wort. No harm in trying though. If you get butter or cooked corn taste then you know for next time that you’ll need that vigorous boil with the lid off. Captain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Worthog Posted July 10, 2018 Share Posted July 10, 2018 Just have to bite the bullet and get a bigger gas ring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Captain!! Posted July 10, 2018 Share Posted July 10, 2018 Here’s a link to the talk on way a vigorous boil is so important. http://beersmith.com/blog/2016/03/01/boiling-home-brewed-beer-with-dr-charlie-bamforth-beersmith-podcast-121/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wobbly74 Posted July 10, 2018 Share Posted July 10, 2018 My boils are around 97C and haven't had any problems. It is actually boiling - running off a 2200w element - but the real measured temp is about 97 in the main portion of the wort. The local area around the element would be at 100 no doubt. I'd agree avoiding putting a lid on is a good idea. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Captain!! Posted July 10, 2018 Share Posted July 10, 2018 @Wobbly74 Do you live at altitude? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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