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Pirate Life IPA recipe help (kits and bits)


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So i took a drive to the LHBS today and got the following

Coopers IPA kit

500 gms each of crystal malt, pale malt and caramunich malt

I got 100 grams each of simcoe, motueka and centennial and 1 kg of DME, as well as US05

 

Now these are the ingredients that Pirate Life list on their IPA can

I will be doing a steep and then a boil with hop additions. I am looking for any suggestions on volumes, measurements to use etc

obviously ,its a pre-hopped kit so hop additions would be 20 minutes , perhaps 10 and then flameout

 

Cheers

Niall

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Hi Paddybrew,

 

Perhaps they have changed the recipe, but from piratelife.com.au I get the following for their IPA:

 

Malts: Pale Malt, Golden Promise, Munich

Hops: Centennial, Riwaka, Simcoe

 

I have brewed it once before, and I would not be adding any more specialty grains to the Coopers IPA kit, so save the crystal and caramunich for another batch.

 

Given that it is a 6.8% ABV you will want a 1.060 OG (a couple of points higher won't hurt). The Coopers IPA kit made up to 23 litres will give you an OG of 1.022. If you mash the 500g pale malt you will add about 5 points in 23 litres, so you'll need to add say 2kg LDM on top of that.

 

With the hops, The Coopers IPA kit made up to 23 litres will give you 61.3 IBUs pre-fermentation, so you'll need to add 10 - 20 IBUs on top of that. And you want plenty of hop flavour and aroma. I would boil your mash runnings for 30 minutes, then kill the heat and add 50g each of the Simcoe, Motueka and Centennial. Let sit for 15 minutes then strain into the fermenter with the rest of your ingredients and top up to 23 litres.

 

Add the remaining 50g of each variety as a dry hop.

 

Cheers,

 

John

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Cheers John,. all advice very much taken on board from those in the know. i dont expect anything near the original when doing kits and bits but having some wisdom imparted on you by those in the know is a great bit of learning and very welcomed rightful

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Hey John I like the sounds of your recommended hop schedule for this PL IPA recipe you are helping Paddybrew with.

 

150g flameout hops should give plenty of flavor and the 150g dry hop will fill it full of aroma. ESP with the hops u bought Paddybrew.

 

The dry hops will soak up a lot of beer, so follow the Lusty recommendation and squeeze the precious beer from the hop sock (paying attention to sanitation of course) when the dry hops have done their job

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Hey John I like the sounds of your recommended hop schedule for this PL IPA recipe you are helping Paddybrew with.

 

150g flameout hops should give plenty of flavor and the 150g dry hop will fill it full of aroma. ESP with the hops u bought Paddybrew.

 

The dry hops will soak up a lot of beer' date=' so follow the Lusty recommendation and squeeze the precious beer from the hop sock (paying attention to sanitation of course) when the dry hops have done their job[/quote']

last batch i dry hopped commando. got a few floaties in the PET bottles but nothing major

 

John, i was thinking of steeping the grains rather than doing a mash. You wouldn't recommend ?

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I'll be keeping an eye on this thread. I'm a massive pirate life fan and would love to emulate their IPA.

My LHBS has an extract clone recipe kit they sell but it's still almost the same as a carton ($90) so I'm keen to see how you get on with this experiment. Keep us posted...

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I'll be keeping an eye on this thread. I'm a massive pirate life fan and would love to emulate their IPA.

My LHBS has an extract clone recipe kit they sell but it's still almost the same as a carton ($90) so I'm keen to see how you get on with this experiment. Keep us posted...

I’m a big fan of the Pirate Life IPA. It is my favourite commercial beer by faaaarrrrrr

 

Youngie

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My LHBS has an extract clone recipe kit they sell but it's still almost the same as a carton ($90) so I'm keen to see how you get on with this experiment. Keep us posted...

 

Hey karlos, do you have a link or can you post the recipe of this PL IPA clone? Just curious as to what hops they put in, and what quantities. Also the additional grains for steeping.

 

For $90 I would hope to see the volumes of hops that Paddybrew put in (~300g). Otherwise it won't be in the hoppy realm of a modern American-style IPA. I have a feeling that Paddybrew's recipe with 100g of each of those hops is going to be pretty good.

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Hey karlos' date=' do you have a link or can you post the recipe of this PL IPA clone? Just curious as to what hops they put in, and what quantities. Also the additional grains for steeping.

[/quote']

 

I actually jumped on their website last night after my last post to see if it was listed on there, but sadly it isn't. I just overheard the shop staff running through the recipe sheet with a couple of other customers who were buying it when I was in there getting some stuff last time.

 

Leave it with me because I might still have a printed copy of it lying around (I asked for a print out of it before I left)

 

That pirates wife recipe from brewers choice above is more a copy of the IIPA, which is a different,.stronger ABV beer and more Hoppy than the original IPA, but amazing nonetheless.

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John' date=' i was thinking of steeping the grains rather than doing a mash. You wouldn't recommend ?[/quote']Pale malt is a base malt and needs to be mashed. However, a mash is not much more than a temperature controlled steep anyway. Just steep it in water and keep the temp around 66C for an hour.

 

And pitch a crapload of yeast. You're gonna need it for a big beer like this.

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And pitch a crapload of yeast. You're gonna need it for a big beer like this.

Well pitching a ton of yeast won't hurt, but I wouldn't call 1.060 a particularly big beer. For this batch I'd be perfectly ok with a single 11g pack of dried yeast, rehydrated. Just don't let the ferment temps get carried away in the first few days.

 

Cheers,

 

John

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6 hours ago, porschemad911 said:

Well pitching a ton of yeast won't hurt, but I wouldn't call 1.060 a particularly big beer. For this batch I'd be perfectly ok with a single 11g pack of dried yeast, rehydrated. Just don't let the ferment temps get carried away in the first few days.

You're a game man if you're regularly using 11gms of dried yeast on a 1.060 brew John. ?

P.S. This new forum is gonna take some getting used to. ?

Cheers,

Lusty.

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Well maybe I stand corrected. But I'm not so sure ...

Fermentis advise a pitch rate of 50g/hl to 80g/hl (so for 23 litres that is 11.5g to 18.4g). So just over a pack and a half if you want to play it safe and pitch on the upper end of their reccomendation. But the difference is less than a factor of 2 and the yeast population will have roughly doubled within 90 minutes of pitching anyway.

My experience tells me there's a pretty wide safety buffer in this. if the reactivated yeast from a 6-pack of Coopers Pale Ale can ferment out 11 litres of 1.063 OG stout beautifully (and taste fantastic), 11.5g of US-05 will have at least an order of magnitude more cells in it than that ... so same OG and double the volume? In my mind, no worries.

So for this batch, if I had 2 packs in the fridge, I would probably pitch 2. But if I were going out and buying yeast specifically, I would buy and pitch 1 pack.

Cheers,

John

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Hi John.

2 hours ago, porschemad911 said:

Well maybe I stand corrected. But I'm not so sure ...

Fermentis advise a pitch rate of 50g/hl to 80g/hl (so for 23 litres that is 11.5g to 18.4g). So just over a pack and a half if you want to play it safe and pitch on the upper end of their reccomendation. But the difference is less than a factor of 2 and the yeast population will have roughly doubled within 90 minutes of pitching anyway.

My experience tells me there's a pretty wide safety buffer in this. if the reactivated yeast from a 6-pack of Coopers Pale Ale can ferment out 11 litres of 1.063 OG stout beautifully (and taste fantastic), 11.5g of US-05 will have at least an order of magnitude more cells in it than that ... so same OG and double the volume? In my mind, no worries.

I agree with everything you say John. I even went to the trouble of proving the numbers through the CCA yeast re-activation process in a thread I created to discuss how many cells are produced etc.  In my time on the forum I would consider myself one of the worst offenders when it comes to under-pitching with brews, so I know you can get away with it.

Given that many home brewers (especially those new to the craft) dry pitch their yeasts, I believe they are increasing their risk of a failed ferment if pitching just one packet above that 1.050 mark. Remember the treatment, storage & viability of the yeast cannot be accurately gauged, so some compensation(s) should at least be considered when contemplating brewing a higher gravity brew.

I generally have a few kit yeasts floating around & because I'm a cheap b@$#%&d, I'll often combine one of them with the bought yeast or make a starter to give me sufficient numbers rather than forking out for that second packet of yeast.

You can certainly under-pitch below advised "optimum" rates, but just be aware of the risks. ?

Cheers,

Lusty.

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I certainly believe that you can get away with underpitching - as long as it's not by too much of an amount. One packet of US-05 in a 1.060+ brew of 23 litres would be too much of an amount in my view, especially if it was dry pitched. I've found it easier to go by cell counts rather than "numbers of packets", but I'm also set up to make yeast starters. I'm fully aware that these numbers aren't precise, but they're definitely close enough for rock n' roll.

Obviously homebrewers aren't aiming for the sort of consistency of commercial brewers in terms of the same recipes turning out the same every time they're brewed (although I have managed it with a couple of regulars of mine), however we should be aiming for consistently healthy and predictable fermentations, which will only be achieved by paying closer attention to pitching rates. That doesn't mean you have to go and build a mini yeast lab and get precise cell counts, simply pitch enough yeast for the volume and OG of the wort you're fermenting. Underpitching by too far just leads to problems and inconsistency. It's not worth it to save a few bucks.

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Cheers guys for the advice . I have us05 and i'll chuck in the kit yeast,both rehydrated 

im bigging myself up for the mash

i was thinking the grainbil would be 1 kg pale, 250 gms of crystal 40  and 250 gms of caramunich t1

am i punching above my weight here 

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Today’s the day. The missus is heading up north for a week so I’m throwing down a double brew. I have the ROTM dark monk also that arrived yesterday 

I’m gonna go with the mini mash as per above and see how that goes. The fun in brewing is experimenting and learning right ? ?

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5 hours ago, PaddyBrew2 said:

Yip have a kilo of it

would my grains not add some freshness to it?

Yes, that is why the suggestion of the pale to be used. The Crystal type malts add some unfermentables to your brew which you may not want. The IPA can SHOULD be a good base.

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Just pitched my yeast literally ten minutes ago at 21

in the end the mini mash was 1kg of pale malt, 500 gms Caramunich ( I used twice what I was supposed to by accident) and 250 gms crystal 40. Mashed at 67. Left for an hour.  Sparged and brought to boil with 1 kilo dme and 500 gms dextrose for shits and giggles. Added 30’gms centennial at 20 minutes and then 50’gms each of centennial, motueka and simcoe at flame out. Left cool down for 15. And added to fv with extract tin. Topped up to just past 21 and sprinkled yeast at 21 degrees. Smelt amazing. Time will tell i suppose 

YOLO and all that ?

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