Jump to content
Coopers Community

Brews all taste the same


karlos_1984

Recommended Posts

Worth a try, even 8 or 9 degrees. Obviously fermenting under some kind of temp control is better than none, however when using fridges and such, it works far better if you use a temp controller with the probe attached to the side of the FV or submerged in the brew (thermowell). That way you are measuring the brew temp, and simply using the fridge to control it. The ambient temp doesn't matter as long as the brew stays where you want it. But when you're only measuring and controlling the ambient temp you don't really know what temp the brew is at because it will vary depending on where in the fermentation it's at. The best you can do in that situation is set it about 3 degrees lower than your intended ferment temp, and raise it up after a few days to prevent temperature drop off as it finishes up. I'd be looking at trying to get a set up happening where you can measure and control the temp of the brew itself and use that 60L fridge for bottle conditioning or something.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 136
  • Created
  • Last Reply
18 hours ago, Norris! said:

Lusty when you do a partial mash do you just toss the FWH into the wort that was gained from mashing before you turn the heat on to start the boil?

Very similar to the other boys in terms of timeframes. With my pots & pans method I place my First Wort hops into my boil pot & strain the wort off from the mash over it. Sparge, stir, & then place back in my oven (where I also do my mash) for about 15-20mins. I set the oven temp to 80°C to start the elevation toward boil temp. After 15-20mins I place this pot on the stovetop & bring to the boil as per normal.

The key is to NOT rush the steep. Allow that 15-20mins before bringing to the boil. ?

5 hours ago, karlos_1984 said:

I have the fridge set to 19 degrees, it remains at 18-20 degrees throughout the fermentation process. This is as constant as I can get.

I would look to get yourself a temp controller. Have the controller regulate your fridge on/off against the probe you'd attach to the FV. A 2 degree shift up & down etc. is not ideal.

5 hours ago, karlos_1984 said:

I.woukdnt say it's off. There's just a more noticeable twang than there is hop presence.

After reading earlier comments of yours regarding this, I'm in agreement with some comments made by other members that your beer is simply 'green'. It's just young, & needs further ageing time. The 'twang' some experience & speak of is more pronounced when the beer is very young. Kit & extract beers generally need some time for the flavours to meld (for a better word). I find my hoppy pure kit & extract beers drink best from around 6-8 weeks aged.

15 hours ago, Wobbly74 said:

May have an issue with consistent cooling across the cube. A little fan might help to recirculate the air and even it out. 

Looking at the pic Karlos provided, where would you put it? ? ?

Cheers,

Lusty.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

23 minutes ago, Beerlust said:

Looking at the pic Karlos provided, where would you put it? ? ?

You just need to come up with some creative design so subtle and elegant that you'd hardly pick that it's even there.

345A01DC-C64E-45AB-84A0-02325FB5D577.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Missed that part about the fridge being set to 19 degrees. I doubt the brew is sitting at that temp during the most active part of fermentation. Fermentation generates its own heat. Your thermometer may only be measuring the outside surface of the cube which is likely going to be the same as the ambient if it's not covered by something. The brew inside it could still be hotter; it's a bit like when you have a hot cube of wort and can manage to touch the outside of it momentarily without getting burnt but if the wort itself hit you, it'd be a lot worse.

I wouldn't think the water is the problem unless you're tasting bandaids, medicinal, plastic even. Those are the most common off flavors associated with chlorine. Filtered water may have its minerals stripped though, which could affect the flavor of the beer.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

They're all good points you make. I appreciate the input. Sorry to sound like a broken record. I will say this though. Since I've done this method with the cube in that 60ltr fridge, even though the end result hasn't been what I've expected, they've still turned out better than my 1st 3 beers using the Cooper's FV with swamp cooling method only. So in fairness the fridge is doing a job in improving and keeping the temp more constant at a better range.

Once I move house next month I've got every intention of getting a bigger fridge off gumtree with an inkbird to hopefully improve things, but I just don't have the space right now so this method has had to do.

FWIW, the temp sensor in this fridge is in the bottom corner and would be sitting flush up against the side of the cube. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Try chucking a teaspoon of gypsum into your next batch and see if that helps bring the hops out more.

When you get your new setup, try brewing a similar beer to the ones you've been disappointed with (without the gypsum) and see if there's an improvement. If there's no improvement then try the gypsum again. If that improves it then perhaps your water is lacking sulphate. 

My tap water doesn't contain much sulphate, and has about twice as much chloride. This makes it good for brewing malty beers. My hoppier beers improved when I began increasing the sulphate level in the brewing water with gypsum.

Cheers

Kelsey

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Will do Kelsey. I've just bought a case of session ales to let the current batch age a bit. I'll bottle what's in my cube after a cold crash and by that time I'll be starting to pack up to move so I'll wait n see what the extra time and new house brings. The new place may or may not have a puratap so thats yet another variable to consider. I'll move and try a few more times. If more space allows for it I might take the plunge to BIAB

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You'll probably find unless the water is absolutely rubbish then it doesn't really need filtration to make decent beer. The main thing you want to remove is chlorine/chloramine, which can be done without filtration. 

I'm about to start experimenting with using distilled water in every batch, adding back minerals to match the style being brewed, rather than guessing from average figures on water reports. Previously I only did this with pilsners to get the really soft water that makes them great. Will be interested to see if it makes any noticeable difference. If it doesn't then I'll just go back to only doing it for pilsners.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I also use a 'pura-tap' on Adelaide water for all my brewing water and have no issues, I think there is a few folks from Adelaide on the forum that also use puratap.

Ours gets regular service's every six months/ year  and filter changes thanks to our legend of a landlord.

Cheers, Lee 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Happy to report even after an extra week in the bottle, my batch of real ale is tasting awesome. It's kind of somewhere in between a Cooper's celebration and an ESVA in regards to taste. Had 3 the other night and they were very enjoyable. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.


×
×
  • Create New...