LeonardC2 Posted November 17, 2014 Share Posted November 17, 2014 I've found through experimentation that Cooper's 7g ale yeast gets sluggish at 64F (about 18c). I also took to rehydrating dry yeasts in 400mL of spring water in my erlenmeyer flask. @ about 90F (about 32c). Sprinkle the dry yeast into the flask & let it sit there for 15 minutes, covered. Then use a sanitized skewer or the like to stir it in & wait another 15 minutes or so. Then let it cool down to within 10 degrees of the current wort temp, stir the rehydrate & pitch. This really shortens the lag time till visible fermentation begins. It's also thought these days that the lag phase is when most off flavors start. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beerlust Posted February 25, 2015 Share Posted February 25, 2015 Can someone please tell me when the Coopers Pale & Sparkling Ale kits switched to having hybrid yeasts (Ac+L) packaged with them? Aren't these two beers meant to be brewed as ales? Cheers, Lusty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkB38 Posted February 25, 2015 Share Posted February 25, 2015 I know the first time I did the Pale Ale kit in July 2012 it had the AC+L yeast. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkB38 Posted February 25, 2015 Share Posted February 25, 2015 Here is a thread with a post from PB2 with the rationale (see #7) https://www.coopers.com.au/coopers-forum/topic/8829/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChristinaS1 Posted April 4, 2015 Share Posted April 4, 2015 Question for PB2: if you know you won't use it for a while, is it advisable to freeze Coopers kit yeasts to preserve cell count/viability? In other words, are the preferred methods of longer term yeast storage, in order of preference: A.) refrigeration, freezing, room temp, or B.) freezing, refrigeration, room temp, or C.) refrigeration, room temp, freezing, or D.) refrigeration, room temp. Freezing not advised. Thank you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
63NovaSS Posted April 4, 2015 Share Posted April 4, 2015 Aside from the scan code (088119000074) the only marking on the yeast I received is 00314P, it was with the Euro Lager. Gold pack. Can anyone shed some light on this ?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hairy Posted April 4, 2015 Share Posted April 4, 2015 Aside from the scan code (088119000074) the only marking on the yeast I received is 00314P' date=' it was with the Euro Lager. Gold pack. Can anyone shed some light on this ??[/quote'] Refer to post #1. The number 00314 means it was packaged on the third day of 2014 i.e. 3 January 2014. The P is the label for the lager yeast. It is a true lager yeast and should be fermented at the appropriate lager temperatures. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
63NovaSS Posted April 5, 2015 Share Posted April 5, 2015 Refer to post #1. The number 00314 means it was packaged on the third day of 2014 i.e. 3 January 2014. The P is the label for the lager yeast. It is a true lager yeast and should be fermented at the appropriate lager temperatures. Thanks for the info Hairy. It is sitting a little warmer then I would like. 57 degrees. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hairy Posted April 5, 2015 Share Posted April 5, 2015 That is 13-14 degrees Celsius. That is not too bad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PB2 Posted April 5, 2015 Author Share Posted April 5, 2015 Option B - the increased longevity by ripping off the lid and placing the sachet in the fridge is great, while the benefit of freezer over fridge is slight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porschemad911 Posted April 5, 2015 Share Posted April 5, 2015 ... while the benefit of freezer over fridge is slight. Interesting! So there is a benefit (albeit slight) to storing Coopers dry kit yeast in the freezer? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChristinaS1 Posted May 5, 2015 Share Posted May 5, 2015 Hi PB2. I am thinking of switching to 100% reverse osmosis water for brewing (we have hard well water which we don't get checked on a regular basis). If I do this, do I have to add any calcium to the RO water, say calcium chloride, to support yeast growth? If so, how much do I add? Are there other minerals I should add? Note I am a kits and bits brewer; I don't do partial or full mashes. Thanks for your help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PB2 Posted May 5, 2015 Author Share Posted May 5, 2015 If using our Beer kits and Malt Extracts, you only need to be concerned that your water supply is potable and free of chlorine odour. We use RO water for our brewing operations. The required brewing salts and acids are added prior to mashing in. So you already have the good stuff in concentrated form Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Chop Posted May 5, 2015 Share Posted May 5, 2015 I've brewed the kits with 100% RO water in the past and from memory they turned out fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otto Von Blotto Posted May 5, 2015 Share Posted May 5, 2015 Yeah, mineral salts are needed for 100% RO water if you are doing all grain beers, because they are needed during the mashing process. As this has already been done with kit/extract beers, it's not really necessary. It may be worth a look if you are doing unhopped extract brews and bittering/flavouring it yourself, because even though it's already happened in the mash at the factory, different levels of minerals can affect how the hoppiness comes through. I don't know if it would make a difference or not though. In AG it obviously does, but not sure about extract brewing. Might be worth an experiment there! If you were doing AG, there is no one size fits all approach to adding minerals. There are 6 different salts you can add which all give differing amounts of the 6 minerals we're concerned with as brewers. Different styles of beer require different levels of these minerals, so how much of each you'd add would be totally dependent on the style you were brewing, and/or whether you wanted to accentuate the maltiness or the hops. Cheers Kelsey Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChristinaS1 Posted May 5, 2015 Share Posted May 5, 2015 If using our Beer kits and Malt Extracts' date=' you only need to be concerned that your water supply is potable and free of chlorine odour. We use RO water for our brewing operations. The required brewing salts and acids are added prior to mashing in. So you already have the good stuff in concentrated form Thanks for your reply PB2, that is good to know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChristinaS1 Posted May 18, 2015 Share Posted May 18, 2015 Another question for you PB2. I am getting interested in trying to make a Dunkelweizen, which will be my first ever wheat beer. I wanted some clarification regarding the yeast included with the Coopers wheat kit: is it indeed a dry wheat yeast? I would assume so as on the side of the tin it says the kit makes a "cloudy beer," but in the Hefeweizen recipe in the section, it says, "The suggested yeast (WB-06 or Munich) tends to throw classic wheat beer characteristics such as phenolic, clove and banana - for many, an acquired taste. To soften these characters, ferment at the lower end of the temperature range or use the yeast supplied with the kit." Use of the word "or" implies to me that the yeast supplied with the kit is not a wheat yeast. Can you please clarify? Thank you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otto Von Blotto Posted May 18, 2015 Share Posted May 18, 2015 In the first post in this thread it lists the wheat kit as having an ale yeast (same as the Irish stout kit). I'm guessing the cloudiness partly comes from the wheat malt in the recipe if using the kit yeast, otherwise the wheat yeast generally do stay in suspension a lot longer - or you can simply stir up the yeast sediment in the bottle prior to pouring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChristinaS1 Posted May 19, 2015 Share Posted May 19, 2015 In the first post in this thread it lists the wheat kit as having an ale yeast (same as the Irish stout kit). I'm guessing the cloudiness partly comes from the wheat malt in the recipe if using the kit yeast' date=' otherwise the wheat yeast generally do stay in suspension a lot longer - or you can simply stir up the yeast sediment in the bottle prior to pouring. [img']biggrin[/img] Thanks Kelsey. You may well be right, but I am hoping PB2 will answer. If not maybe I will post a question to those who have made the Wheat kit with the kit yeast ask whether they noticed clove or banana flavours/wheat yeast flavour. The cloudiness is not important to me, but rather wheat yeast flavour.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beerlust Posted May 19, 2015 Share Posted May 19, 2015 In the first post in this thread it lists the wheat kit as having an ale yeast (same as the Irish stout kit). I'm guessing the cloudiness partly comes from the wheat malt in the recipe if using the kit yeast' date=' otherwise the wheat yeast generally do stay in suspension a lot longer - or you can simply stir up the yeast sediment in the bottle prior to pouring. [img']biggrin[/img] Thanks Kelsey. You may well be right, but I am hoping PB2 will answer. If not maybe I will post a question to those who have made the Wheat kit with the kit yeast ask whether they noticed clove or banana flavours/wheat yeast flavour. The cloudiness is not important to me, but rather wheat yeast flavour.... If anyone can gain clove-like flavours from a standard ale yeast then I'm a monkey's uncle! I differ with Otto man's suggestion that the yeast provided with the Wheat beer kit & that provided with the Irish Stout kit can possibly be the same strain. To me at least the codes suggest a difference & the fact that "...their details are held in confidence" seems to back that up. To the best of my knowledge, particularly with true wheat beers, they have a flavour that can't be replicated without the use of a suitable wheat beer orientated yeast strain. Wheat - A (26807 W)... Irish Stout - A (26807 IS)... Note: ...A = ale yeast and L = lager yeast (these strains are commercially available dry yeast and their details are held in confidence). If I'm in error on this one' date=' I'm sure PB2 will be along shortly to correct me. [img']wink[/img] Cheers, Lusty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PB2 Posted May 19, 2015 Author Share Posted May 19, 2015 The dry yeast with Thomas Coopers Wheat Beer is fairly low in esters compared to typical wheat beer. For the overt wheat characters that you seek, you'll need Munich or WB-06 or a liquid wheat yeast. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChristinaS1 Posted May 19, 2015 Share Posted May 19, 2015 The dry yeast with Thomas Coopers Wheat Beer is fairly low in esters compared to typical wheat beer. For the overt wheat characters that you seek' date=' you'll need Munich or WB-06 or a liquid wheat yeast.[/quote'] Thanks PB2. Hmm, so it is a mildly ester-y third party ale yeast, but not a wheat yeast. I suppose that does not rule out Kelsey's theory, that it is the same yeast that comes with the Irish Stout kit, but since that one is most likely S-04, it seems an unlikely choice for a wheat kit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PB2 Posted May 20, 2015 Author Share Posted May 20, 2015 A = ale yeast and L = lager yeast (these strains are commercially available dry yeast and their details are held in confidence).I've told you what I can. Please understand and respect my position in this matter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beerlust Posted May 20, 2015 Share Posted May 20, 2015 Hi PB2. For my interest in this conversation, can you at least clarify whether the yeast used in the Wheat beer kit & the yeast used in the Irish Stout kit are either the same or different strains? Cheers, Lusty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew_K Posted September 6, 2015 Share Posted September 6, 2015 not sure if this is the right thread, but i didnt want to start a new on just for a noob question. my next batch im going to use 2x coopers larger tin's (with some brewing sugar).....I was wondering if i should put in both packets of yeast that come with the Tins? Just one? thanks in advance for any replys Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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