10l all grain recipe for the craft kit fermenter

[Oor Wullie]

G'day Mr Wullie. No you can't substitute the Maris with Crystal. MO is the basic grain for making beer. Let me explain that better.

 

When doing AG' date=' the base malt is a Pale Ale Malt, generally described as a "Two row Pale Malt Extract". This is the stuff you buy in 25k bags, so as to keep your cost down. What we call specialty malts, like your Crystal, are used to give colour and taste. So, no you cannot substitute.

 

So I guess the basics are

 

Pale Ale Malt

Specialty grains

Hops of your choice

Yeast.

 

Those four thing make beer. What amounts you use depends on the recipe you're trying to brew. Maris Otter is just the name of a base malt, it is not a specialty grain.

 

Cheers

Bill[/quote']

 

 

Thank you for the reply Bill. I'm learning new things all the time and I did not realise different malts had to be used; presumed all were the same.

 

I bought the crystal malt to steep in an extract brew which as yet I am undecided on, but I may purchase some pale malt and give this a go and see.

 

DadnDave, thanks for the reply too, it was good to get an experienced brewer to give us a fuller explanation.

 

Thanks to everyone for the patience and knowledge that us new brewers require.

 

Oor Wullie.

 

 

 

 

[ImaginativeName]

Thought it was pricey ' date=' shelled out almost enough clams for a Good carton already. 25kg bags are for sure the way to go when I get the process down.

[/quote']

 

I won't be committing to a 25kg bag before I've done my first AG, no way.

 

You've done the right thing, you could buy a case of beer but then you wouldn't be any closer to your own AG brew.

[The bearded machinist]

http://www.biabrewer.info/viewtopic.php?f=23&t=153

Imaginativename this is a pretty good read, I'm using it as a guide right now. My pre boil gravity was spot on at 1.042.

[The bearded machinist]

Oh and the biggest gas burner on my stove only just gets 17l to a rolling boil.

[The bearded machinist]

My first all grain beer is now fermenting.... I hope haha.

Pitched yeast this morning.

It's a bit more the consuming than I originally thought, hope it pays off.

[ImaginativeName]

Nice one.

Keep us updated.

[Happy Chappies]

Having just done my first AG/BIAB recipe for the craft kit I thought I might add to this older thread with a little feedback.

 

Certainly was a long day the first time round! I think everything took twice as long due to inexperience and learning.

 

Milled the grain utilising the old pasta machine mod. Worked quite well, although very slow.

 

16 litres of water in the 19l Big W pot, combined with 2kg of Maris Otter had it completely and utterly brimmed! Yikes. Think I'll keep the volume to 15l in future. Post boil I only had 10 usable litres left, but a final gravity of 1.042 and what I think was a 70% efficiency. So pretty pleased with that.

 

Stuck with the SMASH concept and just used fuggles in this one at 60 (20g), 15 (10g) and 10 (7g), to keep it simple.

 

Going to have to do a bit more work on cooling and straining it into the FV as a bunch of cold break went in - which I know isn't the end of the world, and it certainly made for entertaining watching with the massive churning that the yeast caused by Day 2! First time I've observed this.

 

So all in all a great first experience. Learned a lot and will hopefully be a bit smoother for round 2 in a couple of weeks.

[meves]

I brewed this one up a few weeks ago in a bag and the 19L Big W pot. I used 16L of water and it was chockas.

Came out as a very tasty beer, but I noticed it has a bit of harsh bitterness so might get rid of the initial hops at start of boil and make up the IBU's with the 20 min addition.

 

 

 

Dr Smurto's Golden Ale (falconers flight)

American Pale Ale (10 A)

Type: All Grain

Batch Size: 11.02 l

Boil Size: 16.32 l

Boil Time: 60 min

End of Boil Vol: 13.49 l

Final Bottling Vol: 10.18 l

Fermentation: Ale, Primary Straight to Keg

 

Dr Smurto's Golden Ale (falconers flight)

American Pale Ale (10 A)

Type: All Grain

Batch Size: 11.02 l

Boil Size: 16.32 l

Boil Time: 60 min

End of Boil Vol: 13.49 l

Final Bottling Vol: 10.18 l

Fermentation: Ale, Primary Straight to Keg

 

Ingredients

Amt Name Type # %/IBU

1.51 kg Pilsner (2 Row) Bel (3.9 EBC) Grain 1 58.1 %

0.50 kg Wheat Malt, Ger (3.9 EBC) Grain 2 19.3 %

0.45 kg Munich Malt (17.7 EBC) Grain 3 17.1 %

0.14 kg Caramunich Malt (110.3 EBC) Grain 4 5.4 %

5.00 g Falconer's Flight - Boil 60.0 min Hop 5 11.4 IBUs

14.00 g Falconer's Flight - Boil 20.0 min Hop 6 19.3 IBUs

0.12 Items Whirlfloc Tablet (Boil 15.0 mins) Fining 7 -

10.00 g Falconer's Flight - Boil 0.0 min Hop 8 0.0 IBUs

0.5 pkg American West Coast Ale (Lallemand/Danstar #BRY-97) Yeast 9 -

 

Est Original Gravity: 1.047 SG

Est Final Gravity: 1.010 SG

Estimated Alcohol by Vol: 4.8 %

Bitterness: 38.7 IBUs

Est Color: 14.5 EBC

Measured Original Gravity: 1.047 SG

Measured Final Gravity: 1.010 SG

Actual Alcohol by Vol: 4.8 %

Calories: 436.7 kcal/l

 

Est Original Gravity: 1.047 SG

Est Final Gravity: 1.010 SG

Estimated Alcohol by Vol: 4.8 %

Bitterness: 38.7 IBUs

Est Color: 14.5 EBC

Measured Original Gravity: 1.047 SG

Measured Final Gravity: 1.010 SG

Actual Alcohol by Vol: 4.8 %

Calories: 436.7 kcal/l

[Paul J H]

On 1/9/2017 at 1:03 AM, Graculus said:

I've never done it, but I copy and pasted this from an English forum I frequent.

I'd be interested to hear what those more experienced brewers think of this.

 

 

If you've made a few kits and/or extract brews, why not have a go at a simple AG brew, to see the difference it makes? A small batch of AG beer is not difficult and you will discover the difference and feel the joy and pride of making it from scratch. All you need for 5 litres is 1kg of Maris Otter, or other pale malt, a packet of hops, and a sachet of yeast. You just need a thermometer, a decent sized pan and something to strain the grain from the wort. A big sieve, or a piece of cloth in a colander. A bag that fills the pan and,drapes over the sides and holds the grains, made from muslin or voile, is ideal. You also need a hydrometer to check the gravity before and after fermentation.

 

Recipe:

 

1kg Maris Otter (about £1.50)

One packet of hops (any you like - EKG, Citra, Amarillo, Galaxy, Fuggles, First gold etc) (About £3-4, but you will only use 15g of the 100g, so cost is around 50p)

One packet of yeast, 3g dried yeast is enough. (50p ish)

 

 

Method:

 

1. Heat 3 litres of water to 75C in big pan.

2. Pour in the pale malt while stirring - get rid of lumps.

3. Check temp is 65-70C - adjust if necessary with cold or boiling water.

4. Wrap a thick towel round the pot and leave alone for one hour.

5. Strain into a bucket or other vessel through sieve, or colander lined with cloth.

6. Heat another 4 litres of water to 80C and add the grains back to it. Leave 10 mins, stir, and strain the liquid to your bucket. You should have about 6 litres, which will reduce when you boil it for an hour.

7. Dispose of grains, add wort to pan and bring to boil.

8. Add 5 grams of hops when boiling point is reached.

9. 55 Mins later add 5 to 10g of hops, depending on your hoppiness requirements, boil another 5 mins and switch off.

10. Cool the wort in sink, with lid on, add to sterilised FV/demijohn via sterilised sieve to catch hops, and top up the level to 5 litres if necessary. Pitch yeast at around 18 - 20C.

 

[Measure the amount of water added if you top up the FV, and add this amount to the sparge water next time you brew]

 

Here's a youtube video that shows the method quite well:

 

 

 

You should get 8 or 9 x 500ml bottles of lovely beer for about £2.50. It takes me about 3 hours start to finish, making 10 litre batches in this way (see below).

 

10 Litre option: You can just double all the quantities and make 10 Litres, which is what I do most of the time, it's a good amount of beer. About 18x500ml bottles, or 27x330ml bottles. You just need a 15ish litre pot.

 

If you've never made an all grain beer it's really worth giving this a go.

I had to add that I tried this, with no confidence that I would produce a beer I could drink. Wasn’t sure what I was doing and eventually bottled the brew thinking I’d wasted my time.

Poured two weeks later and wasn’t filled with confidence when the result looked a little light, but the head was at least spot on. Took a tentative sip, had a bigger mouthful and you couldn’t wipe the smile from my face. It was great.

I’d describe it as a smooth bitter, a little like a VB. Honestly not my normal beer but very enjoyable. Much better than any of the Cooper recipes I’ve made. So much better!

Planning on making another batch, maybe playing with the hops to see what happens.

Thanks so much for the recipe.

Paul

[mrchino73]

On 1/8/2017 at 5:15 PM, Bolchy said:

To design you recipe you will want to use something like brewersfriend.com website. You also need to know how bitter you want to make your pale ale. Something along the lines of 25-30 ibu is pretty standard for a pale ale. A basic recipe will comprise of around 85-90% base malt (maris otter, golden promise etc.) And 10-15% specialty.... like a light crystal malt. Then hold it at around 65-66° for an hour. You also need to account for how much water will be absorbed by the grain and how much will boil off in an hour probably around 4-5 litres.and how much you will lose to all the trub (grain crap) that you want to leave in the kettle preferably. So somewhere around 16 litres of water to start with will let you end up with about 10 litres into the fermenter. Next you need to understand what difference adding the hops at different times will make to your beer.

Firstly add to the wort with 60 minutes left in boil.. to add majority of bitterness.

2nd add to wort with 20 minutes left in boil to add a little more bitterness but add flavour.

3rd add with a couple of minutes left or when you turn the heat off to add aroma.

Play round with the numbers in brewersfriend to help figure out all the og estimated fg and most importantly to calculate bitterness.

Make sure you understand that the aa (alpha acid) % will affect how much bitterness you get.

It sounds complicated but it really isnt.

An example recipe which may work could be

16litres water

2kg marris otter

200g light crystal

25 g cascade pellets

Us05 yeast

1/4 whirlfloc tablet

 

Mash grain at 65 for 60 mins

Remove grain

Bring to boil

60mins left add 8g cascade hops

20 mins left add 8g cascade

10 mins left add whirlfloc

2 mins left add 9g cascade

Remove from heat

Cool in sink

Strain into fermenter pitch yeast

Ferment at 18

Og about 1.045

Fg about 1.009

Abv in bottle once carbonated about5.1%

Bitterness about 29 ibu

This is based on efficiency of around 65%

Hope this helps a little.

Excellent explanation!!!!! Congrats for taking your time to do it..... I am still learni g the basics of AG, and it's good to take a revision with your post!!!!!!

Congrats again!!!!!