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Brew Day!! Watcha' got, eh!? 2017


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I'm just toying with the idea of 12kg grains in 40l mash tun with 28l water. Sparge with 10l water. Then split mash to 25l boiler topping up to get required og. Thoughts guy's or am i heading for disaster?

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Experimental batch sounds interesting Kelsey, how did the mash efficiency look?

 

Just put down my first english bitter, a Marston's Pedigree clone.

 

kg Prop Ingredient

3.5kg 80% Maris Otter

0.34kg 8% Caramunich (56 SRM)

0.3kg 7% Flaked Corn

0.15kg 3% Acid Malt

0.07kg 2% Carafa Special III (525 SRM)

 

Hop Grams Minutes AA% AA% Override IBUs

Magnum, US 15 60 14 11.5 18.5

Kent Goldings, UK 40 20 7.2 5.7 14.8

Kent Goldings, UK 15 5 7.2 5.7 1.8

Fuggle, UK 25 5 4.9 4.2 2.2

Tot 37.3 IBU

 

Marstons uses WLP026 but I thought Id just use S04 this time.

 

Never used S04 before. Any handy tips out there for this yeast, what to expect etc? Seem to remember people talking about stalling..

 

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Ended up with 74.1% mash efficiency on that one, which is down from my usual mid-high 80s. I used an old grain bag to contain the flower hops, and I should end up with 25L in the fermenter. The OG was only two points higher than the pre-boil SG which was odd, but I don't think it boiled off as much as usual due to the grain bag being in there for the hops.

 

The OG is 1.0393 and with 25L into the FV the overall efficiency is 59.2%. I'm brewing again on Friday and doing a red ale which will be fermented after the pilsner is kegged, so this experimental batch will go into the FV after that one is done.

 

Cheers

 

Kelsey

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Never used S04 before. Any handy tips out there for this yeast' date=' what to expect etc? Seem to remember people talking about stalling..

[/quote']

 

Used about 4 or 5 times. 1st time just sprinkled on the top of a batch after that with a starter. Never had the stalling problem people talked about. 1st batch was a bit iffy but the rest have been good with the last one an English IPA that came out fantastic. The best yeast I have seen for floculating. The trub is like a rock. Kept it at 20c for the last one as well.

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Thanks Greeny,

 

I rehydrated my sachet textbook style letting it sit on 27c boiled cooled water in a beaker for 15 mins , (that I used to boil and cool the water in, with stir bar in too) then put on stir plate to stir slowly for 30 mins, then pitched into 18c Marstons clone wort at about 8pm monday night this week.

 

By the morning, maybe 10hrs later had 2mm krausen, and by the evening 24hrs was screaming along with 2 inch krausen. Now day three it's all but finished, but was only 1042 to begin with. It goes pretty well from what I have seen! So keen to observe the good flocculation properties it is supposed to have.

 

Tasted a sample this morning and it does taste very 'English'

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Hey gang!

 

Long weekend coming up so of course that means it’s brewing time. Tomorrow I will be brewing this beer which is an American Dark Lager / Session Bock type thing.

 

Black Eye Bock

1.8 kg Gladfield American Ale

1.8 kg Weyermann Vienna

1.0 kg Bairds Flaked Maize

350 g Gladfield Light Crystal

150 g Gladfield Dark Crystal

60 g Gladfield Roasted Barley

20g Amarillo at 60 minutes

20g Amarillo at flameout

MJ’s California Lager Yeast

20 litre batch – BIAB - No Chill

 

This recipe is based on a BYO Magazine clone for “Shiner Bock” brewed by Spoetzl Brewery in Shiner, Texas. Hence the name.

 

248b2a7986fede4553806f2ec8e1dd4c.jpg

 

Shiner Bock is a beer enjoyed by one of my all-time favourite musicians – Al Jourgensen of

Lard/Surgical Meth Machine fame so I’ll be cranking his back catalogue whilst brewing.

 

 

Cheers + beers,

Mark

 

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LOoks vary interesting Iczed...

 

DArk steam beer...should go good mate

Go the high lager temps mate ide go 18degrees with that yeast dont be scared

 

Its crapy yeast @14 best above 16 for mine!

 

 

 

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Taking advantage of the long weekend to do All Grain batch number two. Decided to go with the ever reliable Smurto's Golden Ale given I came across a stash of Amarillo in the kitchen freezer last weekend.....

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I'd forgotten about Dr Smurtos Golden Ale! I've heard good things about this recipe, but never experienced it properly.

 

The kit and bit version I did last year was tainted with phenolic flavours. Thinking chlorophenols were the culprit.

 

My first AG was a Sierra Nevada Pale Ale recipe (thanks Kelsey). Second one will be a Pirate Life PA recipe (thanks Xenon). Third will be a collaborative venture and I think it will be a hopped up pale, aiming for a Feral Hop Hog character since we have the hops already on hand between me and my brewing mate.

 

4th may well have to be Dr Smurtos Golden Ale, AG version.

 

Cheers for the reminder Rob

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As has been a bit of a tradition for me over the last few years, I'm doing a Good Friday brew day. This year it's another batch of my beautiful Devil's Squaw red ale.

 

25 litres this time, based on 75% overall efficiency

 

Water and Treatment

36.00 l Brisbane Water Water 1 -

4.00 g Gypsum (Calcium Sulfate) (Mash 60.0 mins) Water Agent 2 -

2.00 g Calcium Chloride (Mash 60.0 mins) Water Agent 3 -

 

Grains

4.000 kg Pale Malt, Maris Otter (Thomas Fawcett) (5.9 EBC) Grain 4 86.6 %

0.300 kg Caraaroma (Weyermann) (350.7 EBC) Grain 5 6.5 %

0.200 kg Carapils (Weyermann) (3.9 EBC) Grain 6 4.3 %

0.070 kg Black Malt (Thomas Fawcett) (1300.2 EBC) Grain 7 1.5 %

0.050 kg Acidulated (Weyermann) (4.5 EBC) Grain 8 1.1 %

Mash at 66.6C for 70 minutes, raised to 72C for 20 minutes; mash out 78C.

 

Hops

20.00 g Cascade {7.80 %} - First Wort 75.0 min Hop 9 19.5 IBUs

5.00 g Magnum {12.20 %} - Boil 60.0 min Hop 10 6.6 IBUs

20.00 g Centennial {10.00 %} - Boil 20.0 min Hop 11 13.2 IBUs

Likely be a 30g dry hop of Cascade as well like I usually do.

 

Yeast

Wyeast 1469 West Yorkshire Ale, generation 8. Ferment at 19C, follow usual ale schedule.

 

I'm also gonna throw some oak chips into this beer for the first time ever, as I think it would be a good candidate for such an addition. At this point, I'm thinking I'll throw them in with the dry hop. I have 100g of them, but haven't decided how many I'll use yet.

 

The Stats

Est Original Gravity: 1.0434 SG

Est Final Gravity: 1.0127 SG

Estimated Alcohol by Vol: 4.0 %

Bitterness: 39.3 IBUs

Est Color: 33.5 EBC

 

Cheers

 

Kelsey

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I'm also gonna throw some oak chips into this beer for the first time ever' date=' as I think it would be a good candidate for such an addition. At this point, I'm thinking I'll throw them in with the dry hop. I have 100g of them, but haven't decided how many I'll use yet.[/quote']

On Chad's advice & after brewing his Oaked IPA 5 times (I think? unsure) I'd throw them in at the beginning of ferment. Unlike a hop, wood character appears to be absorbed into the wort/beer better over time, & is a true flavour, whereas hop aroma can be blown off during the active phase of fermentation.

 

For your first time using the oak chips, I would suggest you follow Chad's advice & use about 30gms for your 25 litre batch. The flavours of your Red Ale are lovely, so I wouldn't want to overpower those, just add a noticeable layer of complexity to it with the oak chips. If you want more presence, you can always up the weight on the next brew.

 

I swear you'll love it!

 

I think I was the one who suggested you try this with your Red Ale recipe unsure, as I reckon it will produce a terrific beer with added complexity. cool

 

I'm looking forward to your thoughts on this once it's in the glass & you've tasted it.

 

Good luck with it.

 

Lusty.

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Should they be sanitised before putting into the wort?

A contentious subject this one.

 

All I'll say is Chad never did' date=' on the back of his advice I never have, & both of us have never had an infection or failed brew by following this commando style method. The choice is yours really.

 

You have terrific yeast prep processes, so you should be even safer than me with controlling your wort quickly after pitching thus avoiding any chance of a bacterial infection taking hold from any potential nasties lurking in the oak chips.

 

Unless you've acquired these oak chips directly from a forest, I personally wouldn't bother with sanitizing them as the purchased ones have likely been processed (cleaned) in some way prior to packaging (I would think [img']unsure[/img]).

 

Your Red Ale is going to taste awesome with some oaking presence.

 

Lusty.

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I'm also gonna throw some oak chips into this beer for the first time ever' date=' as I think it would be a good candidate for such an addition. At this point, I'm thinking I'll throw them in with the dry hop. [/quote']Out of curiosity... how do you santise them? Do you just spray them down with starsan? unsure
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I usually do an extract brew on Good Friday (and a dark too... just realised I won't have a good winter beer now... what am i doing?), but this year I've just gone with the simple ROTM 1st Borough Lager.

 

1 X real ale

2 x 500g dry malt

1 x 25g Hallertau

1 x 25g Cascade (dry hopped)

1 x Saflager W-34/70 yeast

 

Question is, I've got an extra 25-30g of Cascade hops in the fridge, Shall I just chuck this in anyway? Or is this beer hoppy enough already (if there is such a thing)?

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2nd all-grain brew, done and dusted! It's in the cube now.

 

I love Pirate Life Pale Ale, so brewed Xenon's recipe on this page: https://club.coopers.com.au/coopers-forum/topic/15680/

Brew day went well. I learnt from my first attempt and am getting more used to my system (50L pot on a big-ass gas burner. BIAB).

 

started with 36.7L strike water

heated to 68.4C

after adding grain, mash temp was 65.5C. I wrapped it in a sleeping bag this time and it made a huge difference

After 90min mash it was 64.6C

mashed out but the temp got away from me. It was 81C, 3C higher than where i was aiming for 78C. Will this matter?

 

Post-mash I had 33.09L. Gravity reading 1.044

 

I did a 90min boil, the bittering hops went in at 60min and followed the hop schedule as per recipe.

 

I got exactly 23L in the cube, will have to measure how much trub was left in the kettle. The whirfloc seemed to do a good job at 15mins and clumped a lot of the crud together. OG 1.051.

 

Efficiency about the same as my first BIAB. 65.67% according to brewer's friend.

 

Looking forward to pitching the US-05 starter and contents of cube into the fermenter on Sunday

 

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Just did my second all grain too :-)

 

Simcoe SMaSH with Vienna

Still trying to figure out the system properly (Robobrew), I know the volume markings dont align at all.

Measured 10L, it showed 12, put another 10L in, showed 21L, then added another 2, for a totoal of 22L, marking showed 24.

 

Think I might have to put a sight glass in and make my own markings.

Also got a refractometre, and the SG readings seemed all over the place. First got 1.056, then after sparge got 1.044, then after boil got 1.045. (yes i did cool the samples, also refractomre is a temp compensating one) even tested with water and its calibrated.

 

Used 6kg of vienna. Used 9L to sparge

 

Its in the fridge fermenting away.

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Autumn Session IPA.

 

The Mash is about to finish on this one. Aiming for 4% and around 44 IBU. Magnum, Chinook, Simcoe and Cascade over Ale Malt, Wheat, Munich and Carapils with a sprinkling of US05.

 

Cheers & Beers

Scottie

Valley Brew

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Still trying to figure out the system properly (Robobrew)' date=' I know the volume markings dont align at all.

Measured 10L, it showed 12, put another 10L in, showed 21L, then added another 2, for a totoal of 22L, marking showed 24.[/quote']

 

I bought a Lufkin 600mm stainless steel ruler from Bunnings and have actually weighed my water quantities and compared with measurements on my ruler. I found using measured jugs is too inaccurate. Anyway with a Braumeister 20, it works out real simple, 26 litres is 260mm from the top of the tie rod step, 33 litres is 330mm and so on.

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Still trying to figure out the system properly (Robobrew)' date=' I know the volume markings dont align at all.

Measured 10L, it showed 12, put another 10L in, showed 21L, then added another 2, for a totoal of 22L, marking showed 24.[/quote']

 

I bought a Lufkin 600mm stainless steel ruler from Bunnings and have actually weighed my water quantities and compared with measurements on my ruler. I found using measured jugs is too inaccurate. Anyway with a Braumeister 20, it works out real simple, 26 litres is 260mm from the top of the tie rod step, 33 litres is 330mm and so on.

Thanks Morrie.

Will give that a go. Weigh and also use a SS ruler. Easier than putting a sight glass in.

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