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  1. Here it is – the Shamus O’sean inspired Hop Hoop @Shamus O'Sean. Probably best suited to AG nano brewery and similar one vessel setups. A while ago there was a thread on here discussing hopping, hop balls, spiders and the like but I think it was taken down or made hidden by the author. In that discussion Shamus seeded an idea in my mind to make something simple that I could use to drop hop pellets into during the boil at the various time intervals. Once the boil is finished the hop sock is removed and dropped into a coffee plunger to extract the last of the hoppy goodness. If you are doing a whirlpool or flame out hop addition just use a second hop sock on the device and at the end of that period do the same again with hop sock being placed in the coffee plunger. The device is made from a 90 mm storm water pipe fitting with a threaded end see the link here. Note that the hop socks I used here will also fit over a 100 mm fitting of the same type if you cannot get a 90mm one. Cost was $2.75. It has 2 x 440 mm lengths of SS fishing wire trace with little crimp tube on the ends to stop the trace wire from coming through the 4 x 1.5 mm holes that were drilled equidistant around the top edge of the PVC coupling, see pics. Wire trace cost $3.50. Add a hop sock $3.95 or two so the total cost was about $14 so all up a very cheap and easy to use hop tool. The full length hop sock is obviously tied up at the bottom and the open top is slipped over the PVC coupling thread end. Two rubber bands are then slipped up the hop sock and over the raised thread part of the PVC coupling. See pics. With other one vessel brewing systems you may just need half a hop sock as that length should be sufficient to dangle into the boil. The device is then dangled from my lifting rope that I use to lift the basket of grains up and out of the mash to drain. If you are using another type of system you would have to devise a way of suspending it so that the PVC fitting does not sit in the boil and the bottom of the hop sock does not get caught on a heating element etc. During the boil the required amount of hop pellets are simply dropped into the hoop at the designated times. Once boil is done the device can be lifted up so that the hop sock part is out of the boil, the rubber bands slipped further up the PVC fitting allowing the hop sock to be slipped off the device and then the hop sock alone can be dropped into a coffee plunger to squeeze out and extract the last of the hoppy juices. When doing a whirlpool or flame out hop addition another hop sock is fitted to the device and dunked into the hot wort the same as above. Then drop the required amount of hop pellets into the hoop for the required WP or FO time. You could even have your recirculation flow squirting into the hop hoop itself to maximise the contact between the wort and the hops. When time is up, once again the device is lifted up so the sock is out of the hot wort, the rubber bands slipped up and the hop sock slipped down and off and into the now empty coffee plunger to get the last of the hoppy juices. The hop socks can then be emptied, rinsed out thoroughly and air dried so they can be used again next brew day. Hope this idea and device helps someone else on their brew day. @Graubart , @kmar92 @Aussiekraut etc.
  2. In NZ we have a very limited range of coopers products available and the Online Store is unable to dispatch to NZ. One can substitute other brands for some products but its not quite the same. When i purchased my first Coopers brew kit (5-6 years ago) there was a wider range of Coopers products available What is to be done fellow brewers?
  3. Abbreviations & Acronyms This list is cobbled together from various sources. If you know of any others that should be included add them to the thread. The purpose of the list is to help out new comers to the forum understand what we are banging on about. AA - Alpha acids: A chemical compound found in the resin glands of hops that determines the bitterness of a beer. AAU - Alpha Acid Units: A measurement of the potential bitterness of hops. ABV - Alcohol by Volume: The standard measure of alcohol in a given volume of liquid. Mathematically it is the number of millilitres (mL) of pure ethanol in in 100 mL of solution at 20 ºC. ABW - Alcohol by Weight: The measure of the amount of alcohol in a liquid expressed as the of percentage of total weight. AG - All Grain: A term to describe homebrewers who brew their beers from grain instead of extracts. BE1 - Cooper's brew enhancer (60/40 dextrose and maltodextrin [corn syrup]) BE2 - As above (but 50/25/25 Dex, LDM and maltodextrin) BE3 - As above (but 50/25/25 LDM, Dex & maltodextrin) BIAB - Brew In A Bag: An all grain brewing method that involves minimal equipment and cost compared to traditional all grain brewing. BJCP - Beer Judge Certification Program: A non-profit organization formed in 1985 that certifies and ranks beer judges. BTU - British Thermal Unit: A traditional unit of heat that is the amount of heat required to increase the temperature of 1 pound of water by 1 degree Fahrenheit. CFC - Counterflow Chiller: A devise used to cool boiled wort quickly with less water than emersion chillers. CO2 - Carbon Dioxide: An colourless gas with about 60% of the density of oxygen. A byproduct of fermentation in the brewing process. Dex - Dextrose DE - Diastatic Enzyme: The enzyme in grains that converts starch to sugar. DH - Dry Hopping. Also refers to social media acronym texters. DME - Dry Malt Extract: Concentrated wort that is dried to form a crystallized powder. Used in the creation of yeast starters. EBC - Eurpoean Brewing Convention: A method of measuring the colours of malts and beers developed in Europe. EKG - East Kent Goldings; a popular British hop ESB - English Special Bitter; A beer style and Coopers kit FG - Final Gravity: The specific gravity of a beer once fermentation has completed. FG & OG (original gravity) is used to determine the ABV & ABW of a beer. FV - Fermentation Vessel otherwise known as your tub or bucket, wot you brew your beer in HCF - Hop Concentration Factor IBU - International Bittering Unit: A measure of the bitterness in a beer. Most beers measure between 5 (very low bitterness) & 120 (very high bitterness) IBU's. K&K - Kit and Kilo ; Refers to a tin of extract and a kilo of sugar - basic extract brewing L (*L) - Degree Lovibond: A scale for measuring the colour of beer developed by Joseph Lovibond in the 1860's. LDM - Light Dry Malt LHBS - Local Home Brew Shop LME - Liquid Malt Extract: Concentrated wort in the form of a thick syrup. MCU- malt colour units MT - Mash Tun: A vessel used for mashing (combining malts and water, and heating) during the brewing process. OG - Original Gravity: The specific gravity of unfermented wort. FG & OG (original gravity) is used to determine the ABV & ABW of a beer. OS - Original Series pH - Potential Hydrogen: A measure of acidity. PET - PolyEthylene Terephthalate: A type of plastic used for bottles. PBW - Powdered Brewery Wash: A brewing equipment cleaner patented and originally developed for Coors. Is stainless steel and environmentally safe. POR - Pride of Ringwood; A classic Australian bittering hop SRM - Standard Reference Method: A system brewers use to specify beer colours. TCS - Thomas Cooper Series When the list is complete it should be easy to find by searching for Abbreviations or Acronyms.
  4. Hi. I'm new to brewing and live in central Australia where we have huge temperature fluctuations. In winter, in the same 24 hour period, we can have lows of -3° and up to 25°. In summer lows of 25° up to highs of over 45°. I'm looking at building a fermentation chamber in an old fridge with some kind of heating device inside. I have 2 questions. - 1. Any advice on heating device with this temperature range. 2. I've looked at Inkbird temperature controllers. As far as I can make out, I have to set a high and low set point (turn on and off);for the fridge then do the same for a heater. Is there a temperature controller where I can just set the desired temperature and leave the controller to swap between heater and fridge? Grateful for any suggestions.
  5. I have a can of Brigalow Ginger Beer and the directions say to pitch below 35C and brew at 25C. I'm using the standard can ingredients with 1 Kg raw sugar + 1 Kg brown sugar to boost the ABV. Should I follow these temperatures or can it be done at a lower range?
  6. 1. I just finished my first brew using the coopers 23lt kit with the supplied lager can. Followed the instructions but had a problem keeping my temperature up and most of the time it was only around 19c (its been a cold winter and I brew in the shed with some insulation around it and a light globe for heat). Managed to get it up to 22c on day 5 (more insulation, bigger globe) but it stabilised on day 6 at 2.6% I hope I have the temperature problem fixed, but in case it happens again, what easy things could I have done to restart fermentation? I'm a newbee so make it simple. 2. Getting ready to start a Brigalow Ginger Beer and the instructions say brew at 25c. I might have trouble getting the temp that high, so how critical is 25c? Some people on forums say they brew at 19c.
  7. I have the DIY coopers brew kit and in the instructions it just says "stir using the spoon" for the brew can + brew enhancer but after 3 days realizing the brew was still very light in colour and everything still sitting at the bottom so i decided to mix it in properly Its been 2 days after that now and during the whole process around its been around 20C-24C and it still looks ok, the foam seems to be less thick after day 2 Im guessing the brew is still good but will just take a extra 3 days?
  8. Has anyone had any experience with the Digiboil from KegLand? Seems like it would make a good BIAB kettle like the Crown Urns. Good price too https://www.kegland.com.au/35l-digiboil-digital-turbo-boiler-2400watt.html
  9. Anyone have any experience using Sydney tap water (south east suburbs)?
  10. Hi All, Have been getting stuck into my second brew finally as it definetly needed the 4 weeks, worth the wait as they are bloody good lol; however, I am finding the 750 Pet bottles are low on carbonation and found that with my first brew as well. This brew I botteled some stubbys and they were perfect it just seems to be the Coopers plastic Pet bottles that are not. This time when bottling I made sure that all carbonation drops were whole and not broken ones and so forth, yet I think this time it's worse than my first brew even though I really made sure was all consistant with both drops. Having this problem twice in a row should I change to manual sugar measuring for carbonation instead of drops? Any help, advice and/or experiances would be awesome and thanks in advance
  11. Good evening Brewers, I've currently got my Beer O'Clock IPA in the fermenter. Coming up to day 7. The recipe doesn't ask for it but has anyone dry hopped this recipe? The only thing I've done is swapped out the 25g bravo hops for 25g of Columbus. So 25g of Columbus, Nelson and Galaxy hops in the boil and was thinking of throwing in 25g of each as a dry hop edition. I bought 50g bags of each so may as well just throw the rest in I thought. I'm bit of a hop head lol. Any advice is greatly appreciated
  12. Peanut Powder as an ingredient Ok this is interesting. I saw a thread (not sure how to just put a link) STRANGE STOUT By GingerNuts81 Nuts (not sure about Ginger ones lol) generally contain oils - and this raises an associated question or 2 or 3 or a dozen or more... How does brewing using oils/fats work? (Or is it something incompatible with brewing?) What factors must be considered? Some people infuse ingredients with oils/fats to extract qualities from within - can this process be used regarding ingredients for brewing? How would fermentation effect such extracts etc? Does anybody else have related questions we can add? Just the extended little voyage of wonder my brain took when I saw someone brewing with Peanut Powder
  13. Does anyone use the Westinghouse bar fridge, WRM1400WD with the 23L DIY Kit, I'm struggling to keep the brew at temp but want to know if the setup will fit inside this fridge before I buy one as it seems to still have the compressor section at the bottom Cheers
  14. Hi there. I'm an experienced craft beer drinker and took the leap into brewing my own late last year. I love a hoppy beer (think Kaiju!, 3 Ravens Juicy, Black Hops Hornet, Boatrocker Nexus etc). I've done 6 brews now in my amazing little Coopers Craft Kit and have been very impressed by the quality of each of them. However, I have been a little disappointed in the hoppiness, or should I say, lack of hoppiness, of some of the IPAs I've done. The malts comes through big time (which is no surprise given the amount that goes in from the 1.3kg tin and the 250g pouch in most recipes) but even when I've upped the amount of hops in both the boil and also added a dry hop addition for 4-5 days in either a muslin bag or giant tea strainer, the big hop aroma and flavour is just lacking. So far I've done the Batman & Robin IPA and I double dryhopped versus the single dryhop from the recipe, the Pavlova Pale Ale (I added some hops to the boil) and the Great Lakes IPA (doubled the amount of dryhopped amount). Each time I get the bitterness but not the fruitiness I was expecting. Is the min. 2 weeks bottle conditioning killing off any hop aromas and flavours and with homebrewing, is there anyway around this? After doing some reading I am thinking of going commando with the dryhopping, and then filtering into bottling bucket...does anyone out there think this will help, or should I just keep on doing what I'm doing but increasing the amount of hops. Any advice would be most gratefully received....thanks all!
  15. So I currently don't have a beer fridge. No way of cooling my fermenter so have been doing climate appropriate ales through the warmer months. Needless to say, no cold crashing available. I'd like to be able to control temp consistently but don't want to spend a bundle (unless my beers get really good and really consistent and I can justify it to the wife). I've been wondering about getting a kegerater and using it as a temp controlled fermentation chamber as well. You know, two birds one stone, use it to help ferment and then refit when needed for dispensing. I currently don't use kegs but thought this might be a way of slowing moving that direction. What are your setups at home for fermenting, heating and cooling? I'd like to know how people have gone about this. If I went something like the kegerator would it be as simple as using that for the fridge, plus my heat belts I currently use when needed, and something like an ink bird temp controller? I like the look fo the grainfather conical fermenters but I don't really want to spend $800 on a fermenter and then the glycol chiller that would need to go with it. Thoughts and ideas and suggestions all welcome. Thanks awesome brew buddies.
  16. Still waiting for the controller. le sigh! But I now have a Fermenting Fridge - it's all fridge so it fits 2 x FV's in there. Perfect for purpose. Cost a massive $30. And he brought it around for me! I've got another fridge coming which was to be the FF but it has a freezer section at top which meant only 1 FV at a time. (although I did pick up a squat but fatter FV that I was hoping to fit in with the taller one) That fridge will now be the supplies and beer fridge.
  17. Ok, so what to brew next? Coming into the warmer months, I have an IPA and the dark saison ROTM from last month both ageing in bottles. There’s a honey kolsch in the fermenter at the moment, and I’m wondering what’s next. I’m thinking maybe a SMASH pale ale and then I’m needing inspiration after that. I don’t yet have a method of cooling to enable me to do lagers in the warmer months so need to keep things to the ale side of the equation. What suggestions for something that would go down a treat over the summer months?
  18. Hi all I'm relatively new to brewing and I'm looking to brew Mangrove jacks Elderflower and Lime cider I was wondering if anyone had any tips or tricks they use when brewing this cider.
  19. I’m about to get into brewing, I am thinking of ordering the Coopers brew kit, but not sure if I should use the PET bottles or look at ordering in some glass bottles. I’m think of ordering 330 ml glass flip tops. Are the Coopers PET worth using or am I better off in the long run investing in glass bottles. Also any recommendations on sanitizers, or should I just use the common household bleach. Cheers
  20. Hi Guys, Im relatively new to this brewing thing. I have done 3 batches, and all of them have had the same weird (the only way I can describe it is) Pongy taste to it. is this just a standard thing that everyone encounters of should I be doing something to make sure this dent happen? Brewed a lager , Pale ale and stout from the brewing extract. Also any tips to make a great beer would be very appreciated. I've just bought a heating belt and fridge, next is a temp controller. Thanks!
  21. Hi, I’m putting down my 2nd brew, I’m a new brewer & would like to know should I stir the brew in the vat as it’s ready to bottle but there is a layer 1/2way of colour change. Which means if I start drawing the brew thru the tap it will change when I get to 1/2way, what should I do?
  22. Hi all I am fairly new to the brewing scene, have completed a larger and ginger beer which was a year or two ago and both turned out ok. I am looking at getting back into my brewing with this whole isolation situation... Just wondering what everybody’s experiences been using fresh fruit in their brew? What type of beer did you brew (larger, blonde, etc), what fruit worked best and at what stage of brewing did you add it? Sorry if this has already been discussed. Cheers
  23. Hello everyone, I want to brew up a Kolsch when it gets warmer. Can I have some suggestions as to what beer extract kit to use as a starting point. Thanks for your time
  24. Hey Brew Dudes After many years of brewing with a hybrid 3V system I've decided to cross over and give BAIB a go. My 19 litre Coleman Mash Tun has been giving me nothing but trouble with stuck mashes and my investment in a false bottom turned out to be a waste of cash as it wouldn't fit nicely. I've also always struggled with kettle losses and my efficiency never gets above 70% these days. I will appreciate it if some of the regular BAIB are willing to share their process and any tips and tricksthey have picked up on the way. Cheers & Beers Scottie
  25. Brew Dudes & Dudettes Didn't get off to the greatest start tripping over the dog while carrying 18 litres of water in an open you Coleman Eski (in the past I have filled up the HLT with the garden hose, knowing that this is not advisable and now having a spare 19 litre container I decided to fill up from the kitchen tap). Also decided it's best to cap the Eski when carrying it full. Dog Ok and the floor is now mopped and the walls cleaned - multitasking brew day. Grains are milled just waiting now for strike water to hit 72 degrees.
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