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worry wort

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worry wort last won the day on May 12 2019

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  1. ok, too many quotes here to list individually so will try and address all in one post.... Bottles. the 1250ml PET only get about 6 fills before being replace, the lids are all coopers lids, not the ones that came with the original contents. The 750 are all coopers with own lids, and there are a number of 450ml Grolsch bottles included in the mix. I mainly use a BE2 mix of 350g dextrose, 250g LDM and 150g Maltodextrin. I bulk prime, usual mix is 150g white sugar disolved to 300ml of boiling water. Its not so much a matter of 'having' to have it at 06 or thereabouts, it just that for many years, thats where its naturally got to, sometimes in 6 or 7 days, other times in 10=12 days. Hydrometer issues. I have 2 hydrometers (i frequently break them) and while there is a slight difference in readings, not enough to make this much of a difference. Fermeting room is pretty constant at around 20deg. My neighbour is in his shed which in winter can be 5 or so deg lower and 10 or so higher in summer. LabCat, you may be onto somehting with my lot, for many years I have only ever had 4 brews on the shelf, i have recently upped it to 6, so maybe the time difference of having 2 extra brews on the shelf could be causing it, i will try drinking one earlier and see how it goes. Greeny. interesting points, taken on board. Thanks all, appreciate your thoughts greatly.
  2. I have had 5 brews on the trot where the yeast has not worked well and the ensuing brews are very, very heady to the point that decantering them into a jug often ends up with a jug just full of froth and very little beer. My neighbour, who has been a coopers brewer for 35 years is having the same problem. I know it can't be the yeast as one of the brews I used US05 instead of the kit yeast, same result. I am using the same equipment, same kits and same process as I have for years. The house is insulated so the brewing point in winter is still around 20deg, pitching temp for the yeast is usually 18-22deg. The issues: I always rehydrate the yeast and stir it in once the FV is at 24/25ltr. For the past few batches, OG is 1.034-1.038 (I aim for a lighter beer so not as much dextrose etc) but FG is only getting down to 1.010-1.014. I have left some of them for up to 4 weeks, added the heat pad, even added an additional yeast pack, but I can't get the FG down to around the 06-08 levels I have got for years, and my mate, who doesn't keep SG readings, is having the same results, humungus head on his beer. Most of these beers have had an attenuation of around 64-68%, with two still in the 50's, whereas I used to get high 70's to 80's. The taste is not affected, its still a great drinking beer, you just have to pour it 20 minutes before you want it. The head stays with the beer with the rings forming perfectly on the glass for the duration of the bottle, but each pour is still heady. I rinse my PET bottles after use, scrub them with a brush to remove all residue, rinse again and sit in sanitising solution for a night, rinsed again, dried and rinsed one more time on bottling day. I can accept a dud every now and then, but not so many on the trot, and my latest batch which has been down 14 days, is still only at 52% attenuation. Its doing my head in. Any thoughts?
  3. depends on the alcohol content. low % stuff will freeze, as I found out when we made limoncello and the bottles froze solid instead of making a yummy slushy.
  4. I wasn't considering it, as MartyG said, its just removing the fermentables but most of those are consumed by the yeast. As it was something I had not heard of anyone on here doing, i was just curious if it was a 'different' way of producing homebrew, not one that I had an interest in doing.
  5. yeah, that was my first thought, hence I put it out to the forum for their opinion yes, Journeyman, i picked that up. From what I can gather its not been tried by any of the forum, and I certainly wouldn't have thought of it even as a form of ultra-light beer
  6. so its doable then! Without any malt or sugars though would the head or 'life' in the glass last?
  7. While playing golf today got talking to a fellow home brewer who claims he does not use any fermentables in his brew, all he does is disolves the can with boiling water, adds to 23l with cold and adds the yeast. I enquired as to the head and retention, he said its all good and that he also doesn't add any sugar for the secondary, but he does use kegs and gas. Is this an option for low calorie beer? I've never heard of it before and wondering if its common or even feasible? Interested in comments, thoughts or experience. cheers WW
  8. seems I've been spoilt in the past, its now slowly starting to push air up the airlock, so James, seems the same here for the first time. Thanks all for speedy replies, was starting to cry......
  9. Put a brew down yesterday that I make quite often, which includes rehydrated Safale05. I woke up about 3am to the sound of silence. Usually there is the sound of bleeping and blooping of escaping co2 drifting down the hallway as the wort and yeast work together, but there's nothing. checked it again this morning and there's been no rise at all, just a very small foamy cover over the wort. I watched the airlock for a few minutes, there was no pressure behind it moving the water as the co2 was rising up. I've had the yeast about 2 months but kept in the fridge, and all other ingredients were fresh. Ambient temp is high teens where the brewing takes place, and wort temp is 21. Should I be worried just 24hrs into the process? Any ideas why this is? Can I do anything to kick start it, i have several kit yeast still in the fridge. thanks all
  10. yes, i am chucking in 25g cascade on day 6, and it was aimed a being around the 3-3.3% abv, just a light refresher more than a session type beer, and had this other home brewer not mentioned the head issue i wouldn't have given it a second thought and blamed Donald Trump if there was an issue... thanks for the input.
  11. Is the following likely to create a rather frothy/heady beer? Coops draught with kit yeast 250g maltodextrin 600g light dry malt 300g golden syrup Discussing brews with a local home brewer and he said the ldm and golden syrup would make for a heady brew. cheers.
  12. thanks guys, they are in soaking now so will use half of them tomorrow. cheers.
  13. I've just become the proud owner of 48 x 450ml grolsch bottles (empty, unfortunately) given to me by someone who was going to use them for home brew but never got around to making any. I've read the forum re these bottles and see there are varying degrees of success and opinion on the use of these bottles for secondary fermentation, so, is there a trick to ensuring the fermentation and resulting brew is going to be a success in these bottles? I always bulk prime, so the amount of sugar per bottle should be correct measure for the size of the bottle. They have only ever been used once to house the original beer, and all seals seem to be in perfect condition. Welcome all thoughts. thanks WW
  14. its ok....i just realised what i left out....doh.... in the middle of making the brew my daughter came in to tell me there was a snake in the yard, which turned out to be a 7ft carpet snake, so i got tied up with that for 40 mins or so, went back to brewing and finished it off without realising i didn't put one of the ingredients in, still sitting on the bench staring at me. Bit of a late mix, only by 30mins, or so, and now sg is 1.036, its been there before for this brew. Came in to withdraw the OP post and saw replies, thats one good thing about this forum, you get speedy results! thanks all
  15. Never had this before. Put down a Real Ale using BE3, US05 yeast and a Centennial hop boil. SG reading shows 1.028. In the past this particular brew runs in at about 1.040. Am i worrying over nothing, or is something amiss here?
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