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Otto Von Blotto

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Everything posted by Otto Von Blotto

  1. Through the door is fine. This one is through an existing hole in the back (was a keg fridge) but my other one just goes through the door.
  2. Most of the flavours are produced in the initial day or two of fermentation, so reducing the temperature now probably won't do much to change that aspect. It needs to be kept down from the start. A fridge and controller as suggested is the easiest way to do it.
  3. I'd say the temperature is pretty wrong... It should be about 6-8 degrees cooler than that. Check it with a hydrometer to confirm but it's probably finished. They go quicker if they're warmer. It'll probably taste like cider too. Pretty much the experience of most first time brewers NExt time I'd suggest ditching the brewing sugar in favour of something with more malt in it like be3, and ferment it around 20 degrees.
  4. I do to a point. Being that most of us are only brewing for ourselves, it's up to us whether we care about chill haze being there or not. If you don't like it in your beer then there's room for improvement, if you don't care about it then it doesn't matter. I don't like it personally but I can't be bothered mucking around with chilling the wort post boil so I use polyclar.
  5. I actually experienced it inadvertently when my old kegerator decided it wouldn't chill the beer below about 3 degrees anymore. By the time it went through the semi warm font and tap into the room temperature glass it would have been about 5-6 degrees, maybe more, and only got warmer. To be honest in the summer I didn't really enjoy it as much as I did when I could get them proper cold. Now they probably start about 2 degrees in the glass and slowly warm up, but I enjoy them more when it's hot.
  6. My keg fridge is set at 0. I know the flavours pop out more if it's warmer but in the middle of summer it'd be at room temperature in 5 seconds if I used those temps.
  7. Yeah I've got the one graubart mentioned above. Bought it in 2012 when I started doing AG when they were still made with the old knurled rollers. After a while it started having trouble pulling the grains through and it'd take about an hour just to mill a few kg. There was a discussion about this issue on another forum and Frank sent out a replacement fluted roller to everyone who had the issue (I think) free of charge, so I replaced one with that to have one knurled and one fluted, and it was like new. Only takes a few minutes now. They come with two fluted rollers now. It also survived falling off a 3 metre balcony a few years ago, so they're built well As for the drill I just use a drill driver set on low speed and highest torque. Works well.
  8. Same as aussiekraut for me usually, either there or craftbrewer. I normally just drive over, can choose to use toll roads or not from my place.
  9. Same process for me with the sodium perc. I don't get flavour carryover from different styles, and my fermenters are the HDPE ones. I have used bleach at times when I've run out of perc, as long as it's rinsed properly and dried it shouldn't cause any problems. Residual chlorine can affect beer flavour but allowing it to dry gets rid of it anyway.
  10. Exactly. The other one that's crept in over the last few years is "DEfence and OFFence" or "offensive play". It's always been attack since I can remember. The yank crap can piss off
  11. Doing that would introduce more oxygen than just stirring it around for sure. I'm gonna get the cylinder out next batch I think. It's just sitting behind the bar doing not much at the moment I also noticed the lag time was a bit longer when I injected oxygen into the wort and figured it was that reason. The beers were great for it though, especially lagers.
  12. That's a similar thing to my home made spider, which unfortunately broke the first brew back. I will have to take the stainless rod legs off it and when I can get another sock. I have a stainless spider in the meantime but I prefer being able to squeeze out the hops post boil.
  13. I think they messed up the title of that Guinness recipe. The nitro one that is served everywhere is a dry stout, the extra stout is about 6.5% ABV and tastes somewhat different. Also I doubt a hop tea will add much in the way of bitterness, they need to be boiled for a time, half an hour or more usually to get a good amount from them.
  14. I would have thought 24 hours is too short. I give mine a few days usually.
  15. I get the no hydrometer thing a bit, after years of using similar yeasts I don't even really need to look at it, I know after a certain time it'll be finished. However, I still check it to be sure even though I have kegs, and bombs aren't a concern. ABV is an important thing to note for me, and it's a good confirmation in regards to mash temp and in the case of lagers how long I hold the initial sacch rest before heating up to the 72 degree rest. If the beer is too thin or has too much body I can tweak the temperature or initial rest time over a few batches to get it where I want it, or repeat the same if it's fine the first time. The first pilsner I brewed getting back into it is a little on the full side, so for the one currently fermenting I increased the initial rest by 10 minutes. Will see how it went in about 3 weeks. On topic more I still haven't thought of any brewing jargon that annoys me. Plenty of footy jargon however, like "disposal by foot". It's a bloody kick
  16. If the wort is warmer than my target fermentation temp then yeah I will set the controller to bring it down straight away. Other times I pitch it cooler, sometimes by several degrees, and it just sits in the fridge and slowly warms up. Both ways work, but I prefer the pitch cooler way.
  17. Not surprising in the least brewing under those conditions
  18. I'd probably go the carport option. My two fermenting fridges are in my patio area which fortunately has an outdoor power point nearby to them, still need an extension lead plugged into a power board to run them both but it works nicely. It does get quite hot out there in summer but they haven't had any trouble maintaining fermentation temp, I suppose it wouldn't be as hot as a shed though, and there's always an afternoon breeze, maybe because I'm quite close to the river here. Cold crashing they probably don't get down as low as they do now but still do the job without too much trouble.
  19. Pitched my red ale yesterday morning. OG was 1.044. Should be ready to keg in about 2½ weeks along with the pilsner in the other fermenter.
  20. Halfway between would be 0.985, that figure is 0.990 not 0.999. Given the recipe and the yeast it's not a great surprise to see it that low. ABV would be around 8.4%, plus whatever the priming sugar adds so probably somewhere around 8.8% bottled.
  21. Yeah I do, I usually just dribble it in so the bubbles are quite small and rise slowly, they rather look like the bubbles that rise in a glass of beer. This ensures more oxygen is dissolved rather than massive bubbles moving quickly to the top, which doesn't do much other than waste oxygen. Like I said I'm not saying everyone should do that, I don't even do it every batch. However it's not a matter of opinion how much oxygen gets dissolved by tipping water in from a foot above, it's a matter of fact that it doesn't really put much in. That doesn't mean the yeast won't work or the beer won't turn out nicely, simply that if you're looking at it from a more pedantic angle, it's not really optimal conditions for yeast to work at their best.
  22. Yeah I don't have any of that stuff . If you're light on hops you probably won't notice a difference, but I do like to brew reasonably Hoppy ales so whatever I can do to avoid losing their influence is a good thing. My situation is different too I suppose, I don't really need beer carbonated earlier on serving pressure because I don't use the method that often anyway. When I do it's usually a lager I'm not drinking for a while so it doesn't matter how long it takes.
  23. I'll be interested in what you find. I doubt there's that much difference. Just because it can't be heard doesn't mean it isn't still going in on the normal in post. It's not something I'll be trying though because my disconnects aren't interchangeable between the posts and I really can't be bothered changing the lines around. Besides that I usually carbonate mine overnight on high pressure anyway. I've also read that bubbling gas up through the beer can scrub some hop flavour and aroma, similar to how throwing dry hops in too early doesn't get the most out of them due to the fermentation gas taking the compounds with it. Don't know how true that is though.
  24. Does it make much difference bubbling it up through the beer? I would have thought the headspace would fill up and pressurise pretty quickly, it won't all absorb into the beer before that happens.
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