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  1. With only a can of Coopers extract (with supplied yeast) ...and making your own Enhancer using only Maltodextrin, Dextrose and Malt. ...and using no other ingredients. What's your favourite recipe? If it looks good, I'll try it.
  2. Turns out my OG reading was way off. Don't know why, but when I corrected it (based on other brews with similar ingredients) it was on track and reached the calculated FG. Anyway, after all the fiddling I did to it, it turned out to be the best beer I have made so far. Now I'm trying to duplicate it.
  3. It tasted like crap and was a brown colour so I threw it all out. Later I made another batch using 1.5Kg white sugar (their recipe says 1Kg) and it was not great but passable. Then I discovered the artificial sweeter aftertaste and gave most away to people who didn't mind. If I had read the ingredients before I made the first one, I would not have bothered, I'm sensitive to artificial sweetner.
  4. I calibrated my hydrometer. Its 0.997 in water so those are the corrected readings. I added the 250g LDM because BE1 only has 600g of fermentables, but it didn't make any difference. It should have finished higher.
  5. Coopers Mexican Cerveza and yeast Coopers BE1 + 250g LDM Thermostat on 19c Fermentation seems to have stalled on day 4 at SG 1.016 (OG 1.040, ABV 3.2%). I gave it a stir, raised the thermostat to 23c and added a sachet of Brigalow yeast. Everything still looks OK but the SG hasn’t moved in 2 days. I don’t mind it being mid strength but I was aiming higher. The last 2 times I used BE1 on Coopers Lager it also stopped around 1.015 so I thought it might be the lower sugars in BE1 which is why I added the LDM this time. My last Ceveza used BE2 and went to 1.011 Any ideas on why it’s stopping early? Rev
  6. I put my last batch in a big foam esky under the shady carport. Being subject to ambient temperatures, its cooler than in the big metal box that's my shed. I'm hoping that will be enough.
  7. I'm at Woodville North and brew in a small garden shed which recently hit 43c inside on a hot day. I also store my beer there as I don't have room in the house for it. I've given up trying to brew in summer so I'll wait for cooler weather to start again. No problem in Winter. I have a thermostat controlled heat lamp and some insulation around the FV which keeps the temp at a stable 19c. Also need to work out how to keep my beer cooler on the shelf when it starts get get hotter. Re carbination. I've been using Stellarsan but will start rinsing before use (just to be safe) but I think my problem is either not enough sugar or overheating in storage.
  8. From now on I'll make sure I rinse well after using my no-rinse sanitiser (not Starsan). Also made a sugar scoop that should give me a consistent 10g/Lt in PET bottles. Waiting for some cooler weather so I can try out all your suggestions.
  9. Thanks everyone. I'm going to try re-carboning my last carton. Wow, they really gush when they're warm so I'll chill them first. I weighed the carb drops and they average 8-9g/lt which is below the recommended 10g/lt so I'll change to bulk priming or the Muzzy method.. I can't do anything about my storage conditions so I'm going to put the bottles in big foam eskies. Hopefully that will keep them more stable in the garden shed.
  10. My last batch of OS Cerveza is flat. It seems to have failed carbonation. It was a standard brew made at 20-23c (a bit warm in the shed that week) using BE1 and finings to clear. Everthing went to schedule and carbonated with 2 drops per bottle. It poured out with little froth and went flat almost immediately. Taste was also more bland than expected but not 'off'. Any ideas why? (please dont tell me I need to brew in a temperature controlled fridge, it's not an option) Also, does storing the cartons of beer in a hot tin shed (it gets up to 43c) make any difference to quality?
  11. I dont have room for a fridge in my shed but use a 40w heat pad on a thermostat controller I got on eBay for aud$18. I cover the fermenter with a double layer of thick cardboard cartons and it holds a constant 20c, even when the shed gets up to 28c or drops to 6c. Obviously I cant cold crash without a fridge but the brew stabilises by day 5 then I just wait for it to clear which can take another 10 days. Always take the original gravity and start checking from day 3 so you can tell when its finished and work out the ABV. Good luck.
  12. I'm thinking of trying to brew 10lts hard cordial. I figure the yeast will convert the sugar in the cordial and make it alcoholic. 2lt fruit cup + 8lt water + 5g Yeast brewed at 20c. Has anyone tried this ...and did it work?
  13. Thanks everyone for the advice on flocculation. I really don't have room in my garden shed for a permanent fridge, etc. The FV in the photo is usually covered by that big cardboard box and the thermostat/40w globe maintains a steady temperature. I can make enough in the cooler months for my annual needs and still have excess to give away. How long can I leave it in the FV (at what temperature?) before I have to bottle?
  14. I'm about 2km from Coopers in Adelaide. I don't have a fridge that will fit the FV and I'm about to stop coz its getting warmer. Planning to start again in Winter when I can use the ambient temperature to cool.
  15. My brews have been made with the Coopers OS cans, supplied yeast and BE2 and using a themostat to keep the heat at 20c (I don't have a fridge so I can only brew in cooler weather). The brew stabilises in 3-5 days but remains cloudy in the FV up to 10 days, so I get all the sediment in the bottle. I tried adding finings to the FV once (on day 6) but it was still cloudy on day 10 when I bottled. Should the FV flocculate by itself and if so, when? If it's better to use finings, when should they be added and how long should it take to settle? I know my bottles won't be completely sediment free, but they would have to be better than what I'm getting now.
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