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rodge

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  1. @Mickep I was in much the same position as you 18 months ago. I've been using the Digiboil for BIAB since then, very happy with the decision, no issues and regular (Brewfather tells me I've made 26 23lt batches since then) use it is working great. I too was thinking of going for a Brewzilla, probably will some day, but in the meantime this is working well. No issues getting 23lt with a sparge (usually 3 to 4 litres).
  2. What does the literature indicating fluoride is a neurotoxin say about alcohol?
  3. Yes, started with setup you suggested but the tap was too tall, particularly once co2 built up, because the tap didn’t seem to allow as much gas exchange (and the cube expansion).
  4. I found a solution to my fermenter problem. A 25lt cube I bought that doesn’t fit in my bar fridge, but does fit in my esky. I’ve added a heat belt and inkbird and gained a second fermentation chamber. Works much better than I thought. Day 3 of ferment and good bubbling through the blow off tube and stable 18deg temp.
  5. I’ve tried recreating the Two Birds Golden Ale that they no longer sell. In the fermenter, see how close I get.
  6. This is the St Rogue Red Ale, BIAB recipe from Brewman. Only the second brew that I’ve kegged. Really enjoying it. Smooth, malty with a good balance between sweetness and bitterness. I’ve tried carbing it at serving pressure, today is day 5, so may change yet.
  7. Good suggestion, it seems like I can avoid learning a new technique.
  8. So I've not been able to find a 25 litre (or bigger) HDPE container (Cube or shaped otherwise), that I can fit the dimensions. The one I bought, which after much searching seemed the best hope, sadly doesn't fit (by about 20mm). So, another option I considered was using two cubes simultaneously for the same brew. The blue one pictured above (which is 20 Lt, but has about 3lt of headroom when you fill it to 20lt), and then a second 10lt jerry behind it, sitting on top of the compressor hump. I was wondering the best way to manage that. Usually I use dry yeast and sprinkle in, but it would the split system really only work if I started using a yeast starter, and splitting it between the two jerry cans based upon the volume of wort? The only alternative I could think of was to sprinkle the yeast in, and then transfer some of the wort a short time later, but not sure when or whether that runs a risk with infection.
  9. This is my current solution, I can't find anybody who makes a larger jerry can size with the same dimensions (the only 25lt ones appear to be wider).
  10. St Rogue Red Ale - Brewman https://share.brewfather.app/W6Z2sxSayrEBvj f_WEPea0D09KfpldNmg99JXwDssYL2_Brewfather_StRogueRedAle_20200403.pdf
  11. Yes, I think that would solve the issue of getting the brew into a keg. Thanks.
  12. Internal dimensions are 420w x 440d and the height is 330 from where the compressor hump is.
  13. The rest of the family unreasonably want to use that as a fridge.
  14. I've been using a 20Lt cube as a fermenter for the past several brews. Primarily this is because it fits best in the bar fridge I have for temperature control. Its been working well for brews where I limit the boil knockout to 20lt, with sufficient headspace for the ferment. I've used the lid, loosened a quarter turn, to manage co2 exchange. I was hoping to increase the knockout slightly to maximise the capacity I have in my kettle, to say 23-25lt. To do so I'd need to increase to a 25lt HDPE cube. I can only fit a 25lt cube in my ferment fridge if I place it on its side, with the tap pointing towards the roof of the fridge. If I use the tap, or the yellow plug insert, in the same manner I've been using the lid, can anyone envisage a problem? One issue I can forsee is getting the finished brew out. I'll need to rotate the cube back to its usual orientation in order to transfer it to a keg, which would disturb the trub etc. If I leave sufficient time (for example during a 48-hour cold crash) for it to settle again, would that work?
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