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Cassius

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Everything posted by Cassius

  1. Amazing! Yeah, that's the reason I started looking at partials; there wasn't really a grain steep I could add to Hefeweizen. Great, thanks. The reason I want to get a portable gas stove is because my current kitchen stove is a really old electrical one that takes ages to boil my current 3L boils, so I'm not sure it'll be efficient for a larger boil, even if I get a large pot for cheap. Sorry @James Lao for hijacking
  2. Sorry, I wasn't very clear on my current setup. I'm currently doing 10-12L batches using 3L boils for bittering, with or without grain steeps. I'm hoping to buy some large pots and a gas stove setup but my current situation (2nd child arrived so wife off work) doesn't allow for it. I had planned on waiting until I had this new gear to start doing partials but I read this article, which states that a mash as small as 450g can make a noticeable difference in a 19L recipe. With my setup I could probably do a 1kg mash, with 2.6L of water (if I've read the specifics of the article correctly). So basically my question is: is a 1kg mash in a 10L brew going to make a noticeable difference? Because @BlackSands started talking about styles, I would likely start by trying with some of my American Pale Ale recipes, but would also like to try with my Hefeweizen, which is improving but I'm really missing the 'bready' quality that I love in the commercial ones I drink.
  3. I'm looking at doing some partials but don't have the gear do do 2-3kg. Since I'm mainly doing 10-12L extract brews at the moment, what do you think is the smallest mash I could do and still make it worthwhile? I'm loving my steep and extract brews but really want to up the grain freshness and drop the colour a bit.
  4. I have also only ever used 17ml white vinegar and 17ml bleach in 10L of water, never had an infection in dozens of batches. I do it in my laundry, which is a small room with no ventilation.
  5. @Shamus O'Sean I'll give it a whiff when I do the bittering and let that inform my dry hop. @MitchBastard I definitely saw dank in the descriptors and that was one of the reasons I went for it. I'm not great at describing beer flavours or aromas. I guess I'm just after something that's not too fruity or sweet. I think I'll try just Columbus this time and I've got some Centennial I'll try it with in another batch. Part of the reason I moved to half batches @Ben 10 Nothing like Saaz but sounds delightful. Just checked again with my LHBS but they don't stock it. Will definitely have to try get my hands on some though. Cheers all for your help.
  6. Hmmm true. I might halve the dry hop.
  7. I know nothing beyond what I have found online but it's a relatively high A/A hop and I want to try something different to my usual cascade/citra/centennial/galaxy/amarillo repertoire. Hopefully someone who has used it can fill me in.
  8. Alright, since I seem to have stumped the group, I thought I'd move in a slightly different direction. I still want it to be a light pale ale, but I thought I'd move the hop selection to be a bit more pungent and citrusy. Enter Columbus. I still need some input on the recipe below. First of all, am I crazy trying to make a refreshing easy-drinker with Columbus? Secondly, I want to add a grain steep. Is CaraPils the obvious choice given I don't want it too sweet or dark and is 100g enough? TIA, Cassius.
  9. Lately I've been using a lot of fruity hops. Galaxy, Citra, Vic Secret etc. I've decided I need a crisp, slightly earthy/herby pale ale. I'm thinking something along the lines of 4 Pines Draught (formerly Kolsch) would be perfect, as I don't have temp control. Apparently 4 Pines use Motueka but my LHBS doesn't stock it. Does anyone have some advice for a similar hop, a decent hop schedule and whether or not a small grain steep would improve it? Apparently Motueka was spliced from Saaz, which I'm happy to use but a slightly higher A/A hop would be good as I'm doing extract only. I'm looking at around a 10L batch, approx 25-30 IBUs and have Nottingham on hand, though I'll buy a different yeast if Nottingham doesn't suit. TIA, Cassius.
  10. Yeah perfect. It's all about the yeast. I think you've got the ingredients for a great beer there. Regarding ferment temp, the general thinking is closer to 18 for clove and closer to 24 for banana but I've been doing loads of reading and apparently the actual German breweries all keep it close to 18. I'm trying my first bottle of the third Hefe I've brewed tomorrow. That was Lallemand Munich Classic yeast (this i different to their Munich yeast) brewed at 22 so I'll report back.
  11. Depends what you're trying to make. WB-06 is marketted as a hefe yeast but is apparently more of a wit yeast and makes a drier beer. Either way, neither wits or hefes usually have late additions or dry hops. That's not to say some Cascade won't be nice. One other thing to check is the IBUs in the Morgans kit. I know the Thomas Coopers kit gives about 25 IBUs in 23L, while most wheat beers call for closer to 15 IBUs.
  12. Hahahaha Lusty, I wish I could react to this more than once.
  13. Well. Let me tell you. I had used US-05 as my go-to neutral pale ale yeast until I got fed up waiting for the krausens to drop and decided to try Nottingham. My experience so far has been excellent. I get lots of activity around 20 hours from pitch, even when pitch temp is 16 degrees, nice fluffy and consistent krausen, primary seems to go for about 6 days (which isn't an issue for me as I usually leave in primary for 2 weeks) and flocculates very well. No off flavours either, usually fermenting around 20-22 degrees. It would take a huge issue for me to go back to US-05.
  14. Alright, final update just in case anyone decides to make this recipe in the future and needs closure on this rollercoaster ride. From about 4 weeks in the bottle the lemon has mellowed a considerable amount and this has turned into a great beer. So much so that I have to remind myself it's around 7% and to go easy. I think if I do this recipe again I'll try with only one lemon, but might also up the ferment temp a little bit to really push out the saison notes. Definitely worth a try for anyone curious.
  15. I'm going to attempt my first Witbier and was hoping some of the gurus on here could give me a hand. I have screenshotted the basics from IanH's spreadsheet. I'm calling it a Hefe-Wit because I'm using WB-06 yeast, which is listed as a Hefe yeast with 70% attenuation, but everything I've read suggests it's closer to a Wit. I also already have a sachet that I want to get rid of. Given it's a 10L batch, my plan is to add 6g of crushed coriander seeds with 10 minutes left in the boil and then the peel of 1 blood orange at flameout for 10 minutes. I've seen people saying you can either do this in the boil or as a dry hop. Given I'll only be using half the WB-06 sachet, I figure I'll try try a boil and then strain everything into the fermenter. If this doesn't give enough kick I'll try a dry hop next time. That's the recipe, now for a few questions: 1. I mentioned sanity checking the IBUs in IanH's spreadsheet in another thread. Can anyone confirm that my boil as shown will give 16 IBUs? 2. I've been trying to add a grain steep to my extract brews for some added malt character, except with yeast-forward beers like Hefeweizen. I assume a Wit is similar and wouldn't see much benefit from a grain steep? 3. Any other issues with the recipe? Maybe the amounts of coriander and peel for anyone who has used them before? TIA, Cassius.
  16. I was having a hard time locating Lallemand Munich Classic yeast. None of my LHBSs had it and I was staring down the barrel of spending $10 delivery for a $6 yeast. I remembered this thread and thought I'd give it a check. Not only did they have the Munich Classic, they also had every other yeast I needed so I ordered my mixed 7 sachets and they arrived within 3 days. Great service and I've got one of the Nottingham making my air lock sound like a tommy-gun currently.
  17. Yep, I had boil volume at 3L originally, and it gave 7 IBUs. Titan suggested trying 10L boil and batch, which gave the 20.2. I'm wondering at the discrepancy between the spreadsheet and Brewer's Friend for 3L boil and 10L batch. Spreadsheet gives 16.2 and Brewer's Friend gives 7.7.
  18. If I put 10L boil and batch size on the Brewer's Friend calculator, while leaving the rest of the parameters the same, I get 20.2 IBUs. I'm not really sure where that leaves me, haha.
  19. I wanted to do a sanity check for some IBU values I've been getting from the IanH spreadsheet. I'm doing some extract-only boils, usually a 3L boil for a 10L batch. If I put 25g of Saaz (4.0%AA) for a 30 minute 3L boil, I get an IBU of 16.2 in a 10L batch, right around where I want to be. However, using the Brewer's Friend IBU Calculator (and several others), I get around 7 IBUs. Is this because these other IBU calculators are made for homebrewers who are doing full volume boils? So when I enter 3L for my boil size and 10L for my batch size, this assumes I have added all my extract into the 3L, rather than a small portion into the boil and the larger part into the fermentor after the boil. This would give a boil gravity of around 1.153, giving a much poorer utilization than the 1.040 boil gravity I aim for. FYI, I am using the Hop Concentration Factor in the spreadsheet and my target OG is 1.046. TIA, Cassius.
  20. I was doing two half-batches a couple of weeks apart with the same yeast. After the first batch I rolled up the top of the dry yeast packet, held it with a peg and chucked back in the fridge. I was a bit nervous about the viability of the yeast for the 2nd batch. 48 hours after pitching there's no action in the air lock so I open a new pack of dry yeast, screw the lid off the fermenter and find......a beautiful thick krausen. Turns out there was an air leak somewhere else. At least I'm more confident that my open full packet of yeast will survive until I need it.
  21. My Ambre Amour is now about 6 weeks old and is a fantastic beer. It's got good saison richness with only a small amount of lovely toastiness from the grain steep. It has one of the best head retentions of any beer I've made and is extremely sessionable.
  22. Time to make my second attempt at a Dunkelweizen. The one I did that I posted here is OK, but it really doesn't knock my socks off. I think it's largely to do with the M20 yeast but I'm also going to change up the specialty grains a bit. I'm currently doing smaller batches for experimentation purposes. This is what I'm thinking. 10L batch 1.5kg liquid wheat extract 25g Saaz hops in 20 minute boil (3L boil size) 100g roasted wheat and 200g dark munich in an overnight cold steep. Half sachet of Lallemand Munich Classic. The only thing I'm really wondering about is the grain steep. That gives me about the right colour but I'm not really sure what flavours those give. Would it be too sweet perhaps? And is 100g of roasted wheat going to give enough of the coffee/chocolate flavours I'm after? TIA, Cassius.
  23. I am a relatively new brewer but since no one else has posted, I'll have a go. I'm all for experimentation in brewing, especially in these smaller batches, and this sounds pretty interesting. My only reservation is based on the constant advice given by the experts around here: don't use too much dextrose as you'll end up with a thin beer. I'm not sure of the exact makeup of Mountain Dew but I'd guess it's primarily simple sugar, similar to dextrose. This recipe has 1 x Golden Ale Brewing Extract, so it's not as though you're just chucking some yeast in Mountain Dew, but you still may end up with a thin beer. Depends what your financial situation is, but for $30 you could be at the forefront of the next great brewing craze.
  24. Gonna do something similar to the Coopers XPA as my next brew and had a couple questions: 1. Looking for a substitute for Lemondrop. Various sources are suggesting Amarillo or Centennial. I'm happy with either as I can use the leftovers in other brews, but does anyone have advice on which may be closer, aroma-wise? 2. Is a 37.5g dry hop going to be enough? I've never made an XPA before but had imagined it might be closer to double that. 3. The recipe calls for an overnight cold steep of the grains. Given my schedule this weekend, it would be great if I could do a quicker steep of the grain. I know that the cold steep is to avoid acrid tastes but is there a way to do something between an overnight cold steep and a 30 min hot steep? Maybe a.....warm steep, for a few hours? TIA, Cassius
  25. Really?! There are at least.....4 of us!
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