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Journeyman

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Posts posted by Journeyman

  1. 44 minutes ago, disgruntled said:

    Oh mate, you would love the one I received from the Commissioner where I work.
    If I had it here I'd send it to you, it is amazing how these, umm, people, can write so much and still not even come close to answering anything

    I did computer work for the Victorian Public Service - a couple of different guys kept the 'Yes Minister' book on their shelf so they could use it to answer queries. 😄 If you've ever heard Sir Humphrey, you will recognise the epitome of verbiosity with zero content.

    • Like 1
  2. 2 hours ago, Shamus O'Sean said:

    @Frosty Chop & @DavidM, a wives that drink your beer.  Now you are just showing off.  It must make those, "I think I need another fermenting fridge" conversations easy.😁

    I tried for years to get SWMBO to drink beer at pubs etc - because it would ahve been cheaper that what she did drink.

    Then I start home brew and suddenly she likes beer! 😄 (but she has contributed to the costs 😄 )

    • Like 1
  3. Hopefully this is OK to post.

    After many false starts that got misdirected or IRL got in the way, I can't find a way to use my Ferm G3 effectively. I was thinking of getting another fridge for it (for CC and perhaps even serving) but that's not possible.

    So... The Gen 3 plus pressure kit, all brand new, are up for sale.  Literally everything you need to start brewing under pressure except a fridge. 😄

    It has the full pressure kit, floating dip tube, filter and even an inline reg, T-piece and pressure gauge for it. Included also a gas disconnect and liquid disconnect. ONLY thing to buy will be a bronco tap or similar for drawing FG sample. Oh, and a couple of SS nuts to go in the dip tube filter. 😄 

    $150+ worth of brand new kit for $120! Plus postage from PC = 5253 if you want to check. It's a big box but it is light. 😃 
    Could be cheap to Adelaide via APD or I might be persuaded to go to Adelaide and use OfficeWorks (cheaper postage but petrol costs)

    Specifications:
    Dimensions: 935H x 378W (height to top of plunge valve handle)
    Fermenter Body: High Molecular Length PET
    Fermenter Volume:35L
    Plunge Valve: 304 Stainless
    Frame:304 Stainless Frame
    Pressure Rated Lid:304 Stainless Steel Ball Lock Posts, Glass Reinforced Nylon neck ring, Polypropylene lid 2.4 bar (35psi) pressure relief valve
    Lid Seal: Nitrile Butadiene Rubber (NBR)
    Working Pressure: 2.4Bar (35psi)
    Burst Pressure: above 8Bar
    Test Pressure: 5Bar 

    Just to add to this, the 'neck' seals via a plunger which is hollow, so your temp controller probe slips straight down the tube to give accurate readings from inside the wort.

    Also the floating dip tube can clip onto the plunger tube so it doesn't drift out to the sides. A couple of SS nuts in the filter can keep the intake below any krausen or surface 'artefacts' so you only get clear wort out the post.

  4. I have a couple of questions on these kegmenters...

    Is Kegland the only place to sell them commercially? I can get one from there but there seems nowhere else.

    Even KL don't seem to have spare seals for them - where did you guys get yours? @iBooz2 @kmar92 Wait: I think this is them, right? https://www.kegland.com.au/4inch-tri-clover-silicone-beaded-seal.html

    If anyone has the 29L version can you tell me width and height please?

    I like the fermentasaurus but it's a PITA having to make sure the FV fridge is empty & removing the shelves so I can get it in for CC - those muthas are tight enough I'm thinking there's not a lot of difference in the risk between lifting 30kg around to trying to wrestle them out of the fridge! (for strength I have 1 wire shelf jammed in the same slot as another shelf - works brilliantly but it's major effort to get them out.

    So I'm thinking (which I didn't do properly before getting the Ferm Gen 3 or I'd ahve realised CC would be an issue) I'll put it on BSS or gumtree and get a SS kegmenter which can simply replace an FV. Looking at the ads it looks not too much different to a plastic FV and I have plenty of room around those.

  5. 3 hours ago, Aussiekraut said:

    So, can I do what I would like to do with it? If so, and here comes the philosophical question, which fermenter is recommended. Ideally something I can use to harvest yeast easily would be a bonus.

    The SS ones are very expensive from what I have seen - the transparent PET ones seem a much better bet if you're just dipping a toe and they do it all, including having a bottle underneath for the yeast collection.

    I got the Fermentasaurus Gen 3 and although I haven't used it enough, it works great. 

    Pressure brewing is also much faster with FG in 3 or 4 days. You do need to work out how to dry hops, do SG testing and yeast collection - that sucker is under pressure so FIRST release the pressure THEN take the bottle off. 😄 I use a magnet in cloth hops sock (to avoid scratches) inside and outside again wrapped in cloth) for the hops.

    I understand the KL one you can add a post to the collecting bottle, so you can seal it off then maybe use a disconnect to extract the trub? The Ferm G3 is a bit different.

    I like the central plunger because I can attach the floating dip tube to it and keep it away from the walls.

    Having said that I've yet to try a room temp lager in it. 

    The main hold up has been clearing cupboard space for it - like all brewing what matters is STABLE temps - yes you can brew a lager (from all reports) at normal ale temps but yous till don't want it jumping around with night/day or warm/cold weather coming through.

    There is another issue to consider - cleaning. KL have a pressure washer thing (bucket blaster?) with pump - turn the FV upside down on the bucket, sit the pump in the bucket with sod perc and turn it on. Much simpler than trying to get your hand in there. 

    • Like 3
  6. 18 hours ago, Franham said:

    Anyone tried cascade and East Kent Goldings as a dry hop combination? Any good? I brew a basic kit and kilo Cooper's draught with 250 g of LDM.

    I'd go easy on the cascade. My thought is it could easily overwhelm the EKG. To me, EKG delivers a rather delicate effect while cascade is a bit in-your-face in the citrus/flower range. I'd probably do double the EKG to the cascade.

    • Like 1
  7. Ignore airlocks - I duct-taped mine, piece on outside and another inside to seal it. waterproof so I can wash the lid. gravity is king and yours seems fine.

    PET bottles can have seal issues. Remove the 'collar' they come with - if already on the bottles, sidecutter pliers work a treat, or break them off before using the first time. The issue seems to be that the little 'lugs' left behind can prevent a good seal and/or some lids are not perfectly circular.

    Fill, squeeze the air out and seal. When done with the lot, do a 2nd tighten to make sure of them.

    Also make sure the carbing is being done at good yeast ferment temps - something above 18° for most yeasts and as constant a temp as you can achieve.

     

    • Like 1
  8. 2 hours ago, Classic Brewing Co said:

    if I had a wife 🤣😬🥵 & she woke up, I would say now your'e up you can give me a hand - I don't have a wife !! 😬

    Hmm... Is one thing the cause of the other? 😄

    6 hours ago, terminal2k said:

    So I'd been putting off bottling some beer because I was lazy.

    I gave up on bottles because back, hip and knee issues - standing around for a couple of hours washing, sanitising, filling and priming would leave me barely able to walk for a day or so. I tried separating the tasks for different days, but at the same time I was saving for my keg system.

    FV's are still a chore but a simple one. I did discover I have to actually wash kegs - last time round I tried just running sod perc through a couple then sanitiser and when I opened them to fill they had crud in the bottoms. So no short cuts there. 😄

    re: the FV's - has anyone noticed the ring of kraussen foam around the FV is harder to clean at the front of the FV? I've ben wondering why - it seems odd that being at the front of the fridge would cause just that section to dry out more than the rest of the ring and the effect persists across a couple of days - I've left the cleaning that long and still the rear of the FV is just a wipe clean while the front needs a brush.

  9. 26 minutes ago, acc said:

    What im looking for is different or more flavours in my cerveza but without adding any bitterness

    Sounds like i should be dry hopping when the brew is near done in the FV but not sure. There are so many different types of hops and different techniques, what would be recommended?

    Dry hops will do it. But also if you are doing a boil, anything under about 10 mins will add flavour and aroma and not affect bitterness much.

    I like using a hops tea - I put my hops in a coffee plunger and add ~80° water, let it sit for maybe 20 mins then plunge it and add to the FV before I add yeast. (so the hot water doesn't affect the yeast.

    Seems to work well, giving aroma and flavour that doesn't overwhelm the beer.

    BTW, you mention bitter as if it's a bad thing. Many of us try for a balance between bitter and malty. It's not the level of IBU so much as how it works with the malt - too much malt override can give an (to some) unpleasant beer.

    • Like 2
  10. 4 hours ago, MUZZY said:

    I'm worried that @DingBell10 has added his yeast to the the 2 litres of hot water and rendered it useless. I think he'll need to add another sachet of yeast at the correct temperature to activate fermentation.
    Question for the more experienced brewers: @Hairy @Thirsty Jim If he has damaged his original yeast, will this have an adverse outcome if it remains in the brew?

    It shouldn't. The live yeast will scavenge all it can find and the dead yeast has nutrients the live yeast can make fine use of.

    1 hour ago, MUZZY said:

    I don't know if this is a good thing or not. Maybe @Journeyman might have an idea?

    Pitching in 90° will kill the yeast. Apart from Kviek, (for which I don't know but presume it is more heat tolerant) all beer yeasts cark it above 50° - some quite a bit lower.

    • Thanks 1
  11. On 11/2/2021 at 8:08 AM, DavidM said:

    Or the one's that have a "Separate large black Cartridge" but never use it!!

    Those usually require you to go into Printer Settings and choose Monochrome (or greyscale) to get them to use the Black. They defalt to Colour and that makes black using all the colours.

  12. 23 minutes ago, terminal2k said:

    I know my closest LHBS is not cheap for anything, but I don't have to wait for stuff to be delivered, so when I've run out of sanitiser or something, I'll pay the extra money so I can brew today.

    How do you run out of sanitiser? I got a bottle (500ml) of stellarsan from CPB and after more than 2 years I'm about 1/3 way through.

    I stopped using carb drops after the 1st packet ran out - for the price of 1 pkt you can buy like 2kg of sugar!

    Buying pre-packs from LHBS or anywhere is expensive; get LDME in bulk and substitute sugar for dex. The LDME means you don't need maltodextrine for head and mouth feel.

  13. 12 minutes ago, BenP13 said:

    I have contacted Woolworths asking if they would expand their homebrew range and ensure that all stores stock it, but got no response. As it is I have to drive about 20 minutes to another Woolies, and they only stock draught and lager. I'm interested to try some of the specialty range like the Coopers IPA extract but it's $24 at Big W - rip off.

    Yeah I got zero response from them as well. Apparently PR is not their strong suit.

    Where do you live? I get LDME, yeast and hops from (mostly) beerbelly.com.au as they ship from Adelaide to me in Murray Bridge for $8.50 for up to 25kg of stuff. LDME from BB is $44.50 for 5kg and it's the 'instant dissolve' version

    Each month I wait for the ROTM (Recipe Of The Month) from Coopers - join up on the diybeer.com.au site and they email you when it's on. When the ROTM drops they also do a free shipping deal for about a week so I stock up on cans then. Members prices are usually well below what the stores offer, and in my town FAR below what the LHBS wants. Deal seems to alternate from month to month, $100 for free shipping then the next month is $80 for free shipping.

    I also check Kegland, Keg-king, Cheekypeakbrewery and a few others for odds and sods - KL & KK seem to have the best hardware prices for example.

    Look around - you will find cheaper sources for almost everything you want.

    • Like 1
  14. 19 minutes ago, Classic Brewing Co said:

    I use mainly Coopers but have tried all of the other brands available but never the Supermarket version. A few guys have & said it was OK so I really can't comment.

    Um... 😄 You just did! 😄

    • Haha 2
  15. 33 minutes ago, Classic Brewing Co said:

    OK here is my letter just sent, obviously with name/address etc.   Now let's see yours.

    Mine, sent 13/10 😄 

    Hi Woolworths,

    I have just found out you are removing Coopers Real Ale and Dark Ale
    from your shelves.

    This is disappointing as the main reason I swapped from shopping at
    Coles to shopping at Woolies was because I could pick up cans of
    Coopers home brew extract at a good price.

    Please reconsider - Murray Bridge is a long way from any other
    reasonably priced home brew shops.

     

    • Like 4
  16. 18 hours ago, Thirsty Jim said:

    That Woolies has dropped homebrew supplies from their stores is just another reason not to go there to shop

    Go on site, find their email and tell them. (it might be earlier in this thread as well) If enough HB'ers tell them they no longer have a reason to go to Woolies they may change their minds.

    And it IS something they care about - recently they had a Rewards promo where instead of the usual "Spend $X to get X,000 points)" it was shop once a week (any amount) for 8 weeks for 2000 points each time. i.e. they are trying to get people in the door because they know once in, most will buy extra PLUS it develops a habit.

    So if enough of us tell them they've just removed a reason we'd go to Woolies, there's a fair-to-middling chance they will review it, because 1 person who writes in = maybe 50 or more who CBF'd!

    Here it is from my Sent folder - customer_service@woolworths.com.au

    • Like 1
  17. 55 minutes ago, monsoons101 said:

    Another question I have is what type of beers are you guys brewing? Do the "knock off" ones like the VB clone kits work? 

    Most do a reasonable job but if your ead around you will find many of the most popular 'mega-swill' beers in Australia have a hefty sugar addition (instead of malt) and Cluster or Pride of Ringwood hops. The ales and lagers preferred by most HB'ers have more flavour and texture hence comments like @Spursman above. 😄 

    But I doubt you will find anyone doing home brew who at one time DIDN'T drink a megaswill and usually go to battle against the version produced in other States. 😄 

    I've been planning (for way too long - it's hard to dedicate the FV to it 😄 ) a brew that hopefully will appeal to guys who like whitefish beers, just to see if I can.

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