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Posts posted by Journeyman

  1. I've been looking. I'll probably go for an eBay controller but the Inkbirds are a bit expensive for now. Once I save some money on the pub beer I'm not buying, maybe. But there's no-name brand STC-1000 dual controllers for like 1/3rd the cost of an Inkbird.

    Fridge seems relatively easy to pick up when the time comes - they're always on Murray Bridge Buy/Swap/Sell FB site.

    Next day or so is clean out a barrel for washing the bottles then sanitise and store in the cupboard for bottling day. How effective is the sanitising process? For now I have Sodium metabisulphate. Will it keep the bottles sanitised for a day or so until I start bottling if they are in a cupboard away from food sources? Or should I plan on doing it the morning of bottling and move straight to filling them?

  2. I don't suppose there's a home brewer marketplace where people sell their spare or unwanteds?

    EDIT: I found one on FB that I'll join and see what they have. (Homebrew Buy Sell Swap (Australia) Home Brew Beer Spirits)

    Any other suggestions welcome. 😄


  3. My pocket likes the low tech idea. 😄 Would an old fridge be able to keep a temp as high as 20°?

    Re: my brew, what are the thoughts on finings to clear the beer before bottling? I read about using used sediment (like from Coopers Pale bottles) and reusing the yeast and thought that could be the way to go from my products but also that using fining process might queer the yeast.  But on this first batch I just want to see if I can get drinkable beer. Later for getting fancy. 😄 

  4. Will look around for a cheap one online - there's usually a few. Money is tight though. 😄 

    A question though... I saw a couple of comments while browsing around the site about stirring the brew. Is that something I might try to help things along re letting the yeast work on possible byproducts of heating?

  5. This morning the SG is just under 1010 so I figure it is still changing a  little. Sample is cloudy (I've actually had similar from a pub CPA tap when the keg is getting low) smells like beer, had a small froth on top (couple of mm's) from the pour into the SG container and, tastes like beer. Had good beer flavour with a bitter after taste, but not a bad bitter, if that makes sense.

    I remain hopeful. 😄

    Off today to pick up some PET bottles someone doesn't want to add to my Coopers long necks I've been collecting and to get a bottle rinser thing a mate has - we didn't know what it was but in browsing around I saw one so that should make the bottle side easier. 😄 And it sits on the bottle tree I have. 😄 Bonus!

  6. I'm in Murray Bridge. I added the heat because the nights have been cold here recently and the system is out in the man cave. (half a concrete-floor double garage)

    Many years back a guy I knew got into HB and from him I learned that, while you shouldn't go outside the max-min temps, what matters is keeping the temp constant. I figured the yeast action would warm things so if I added an immersion heater (which came with the 2nd hand stuff I picked up) and set it just UNDER the operating temp it would prevent things chilling off to much and the thermostat would prevent the heater continuing to warm things when the brew was OK. The garage doesn't get a lot of sun, brick house, well insulated, so I am not too worried about the warm temps.

    But... Summer is coming and it does get hot here. What are the better ways to cool? I'm not close to a tap so simply running water through a coil idea isn't that practicable and the SWMBO would spit the dummy if I co-opt the bath. 😄 

  7. That sounds relieving. 😄 I will take your advice and check SG but leave it a while before the bottle part. I have to organise a decent way to do the sanitizing anyway - I was going to use the spare FV I got but I think I can get one of those 'press & spray' bottle rinsers.

    I trust my nose in most food things and the smell this AM from the SG sample was pretty good.

    I turned on the heater today - it lifted the temp slightly but it has been steady all day so I plan to leave it on overnight, checking (just in case) temp before bed.


    cheers...  😄  

    • Like 1
  8. 3 minutes ago, RDT2 said:

    I thought stainless was stainless...

    304 is decent stainless - I think 316 is the marine grade but would need to look it up.

    Edit:  Marine grade 316 stainless steel is similar to Grade 304 with one notable exception. As well as chromium and nickel, Marine grade 316 also contains 2% to 3% of molybdenum, a hard, silver white metallic element used to toughen steels and increase corrosion-resistance in nickel alloys.

    • Like 1
  9. 1 minute ago, RDT2 said:

    I used the tea ball the first time without issue but use more hops now so it wasn’t big enough 🍻 

    I have a plan for the hops. My favourite  beer is Fixation so I plan to play around with Mosaic, Citra,  Simcoe & Amarillo, which is what that uses. So I figured to get 4 of the hop bombs or just the larger tube which is 150gm so I could put (say) 100gm hops in and still have free space.

  10. I'm new to all this - figured to begin with Coopers cans and then start hopping a lager can to experiment.

    I was looking at the hops balls from Kegland, says stainless and they're Aussie so hopefully should be decent steel? They also have a hop tube that I thought would be good. 
    Edit: Page says...
    "Specifications: Made from: 304 Grade Stainless Steel (for both bomb and tube)

    But I don't want to lose brews to rust flavouring. 😄

    What do you put the hops in? About all else I have seen are nylon or polyester bags.

  11. Hi, brand new to brewing but have listened to a few brewers across the years.

    I bought a kit and extras 2nd hand from a FB Buy/Swap member. In the stuff I got were several immersion heaters, 2 with temp control - I checked they worked before hand and sterilised one.

    I cut a hole in the top of the bucket (lid) and a hole in a silicon bung to feed the power lead through and dangled the heater in the bucket.

    I cleaned and sanitized and started with a Real Ale Coopers can and No3 Enhancer. I gave it a couple of hours and realised I'd forgotten to get OG so I did that and it looked to be ~1035. I also checked the look & saw the heater had no LED glow. It was late so I got an old electric blanket and wrapped the bucket so it wouldn't chill overnight. 

    Unfortunately it was a double blanket and the side I set to 1 wasn't the side I plugged in so I woke to find the brew showing 36°. I unwrapped to let it cool. Took HOURS but eventually came down to 24° by that evening so I wrapped it (with no heating) and went to bed.

    All yesterday and today it's been sitting at 22°. I'd guess it was above 26° for about 12 hours with an unknown number of those overnight until I got up and found the temp so high. It was late when I turned on the blanket - maybe 11 PM.

    Inspections: During the warm period when the temp was about 26° I could see where the top frothiness (can't recall what that is called) had reached but the surface was bubble covered with small patches showing liquid. Slight bubbling was happening across the surface.

    At 22° the surface looked still. I wondered if I killed the yeast - I did the SG and it's now about 1010. 

    I started late Wed arvo, it's now Sat arvo. The sample for SG smelled like beer, bit cloudy, had slight fizziness. I plan to SG tomorrow because I am wondering if the heat may have forced a fast brew.

    Have I spoiled my first batch? Could it have completed brewing in such a short time?

    From reading up a bit, I am hopeful the early heat may have been countered by the yeast being able to break down the unwanted products. 😄

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