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Journeyman

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Everything posted by Journeyman

  1. I don't know if that applies here. I take my OG's before I put the lid on using a sanitised cup, so it's coming from the very well- mixed bulk of the wort. I never liked the idea of running wort through the tap then letting it sit for a week, possibly getting contaminated from the outside. Then you run your beer through the tap and maybe contaminate the keg. It's been beaten to a froth several times - each time I add water, after the yeast, after the enzyme and then usually another before I put the lid on - mix it, take sample, lid on. My taps are virgin until I take the FG and with the OG sitting there beside the FV, that's usually just the one draw because normally that FG sample matches what the OG sample is saying.
  2. I should'a come back to this thread last week. I was doing my first pressure brew and trying to pressure transfer - I'd seen plenty of people talking about having the FV pressure only a few PSI above the recipient keg. I could NOT get that sucker to work! Not at any reasonable pace anyway. So I stuck the kegmenter back in the fridge and put a picnic tap on and poured a few. Came up very nicely! Eventually I wanted the kegmenter back so I set up again and just ran an open line into the keg. It was precharged with CO2 and I was very gentle with it and around it while open so as not to disturb the air too much. Ran through just fine & even gave a nice 'slurpy' noise in time for me to lift the disconnect & stop the flow. Then I come and read here and find out that '2 - 3 psi' difference isn't how you're doing it! So, pressure transfer next time with a decent pressure head!
  3. I ahve my first Kveik brew in the FV. Lallemand version. It's in a cupboard with an electric blanket (on 1) loosely wrapped around the FV being run by the controller. Pitched at 27° (only because I was also adding dry enzyme and don't know the temp limits of it so wanted to give it a chance to get to work) with the controller set yo 32° (Lallemand say 30° give 3 - 4 days and 35 gives 2 - 3 days so I figured drive it towards the 3 days) I think I missed the krausen - there was maybe 1cm foam after a couple of hours and next days back to scattered islands across the surface. Smells great though... It's very cloudy! I mean there's Coopers Lager, LDME and sugar in there and it looks like a fruity neipa. So today was day 3. The OG sample has been sitting in the cupboard above the brew. There's a shelf a couple of feet above the top of the FV but 1. heat rises and 2. the door doesn't seal to the shelf, so there's a gap. Here's my puzzle... I checked the OG sample and it read about 1.022 - hard to tell as there is bubbles and froth on top but I wasn't really after a dead-on measure. Given what everyone raves about, here and elsewhere, that seemed high so I took a fresh sample and it reads at 1.010! Dafuq? Why would the FV have gone further down the ferment than the sample? Temps should be at least close to each other - if anything I'd expect the sample to be warmer most of the time as there IS a slight gap at the bottom of the door so cooler air would be coming in around the FV. The wort was very well mixed, expected OG was 1.059 and it read 1.060. FG is supposed to reach 1.006 & I would expect with the enzyme to go at least a couple of points down from that.
  4. Fatigue & aches sounds like moronic variant - hope so because you pretty much need to have comorbities to get anthing serious from that version. Vitamin D, zinc sulphate regularly. Vit C & E are of benefit too to support your immune system. Hopefully you're already better. With luck you'll be up and rareing to go in time for NYE and start 2022 immune to the bloody thing!
  5. Today has seen 2 brews go into the FV. One is a Kveik basic lager(?) - LDME, sugar and Coopers Lager, hops tea of 20g super pride and 10g Amarillo. That's gone into the cupboard with temp set to 32°, normal FV. Lallemand say 30° is 3 - 4 days ferment - 32° should push it closer to 3 days. I'd go higher but I don't know whether that would affect the dry enzyme that's in there. The other is in the kegmenter under pressure, 25g EKG boil 10 mins, 25g fuggles hops tea, Nott yeast, Coopers APA, Light LME can, 500g LDME and some brown sugar to make the starter. I find the brown sugar gives a nice flavour to the beer, not strong but a hint. I plan to add strawberries to ti towards the end of ferment. I have some pureed ones as ice blocks in the freezer and will use gelatin finings to cut the tannins at CC. Now it's beer o'clock! I have worked out I can put the kegmenter (30L model) AND the fermentasaurus G3 into the fridge at the same time, both with pressure kits. Just have to move the shelf up to the next notch and VOILA! So I don't think I am selling the G3 any more. (wanna bet NOw is when someone on BSS on FB wants to buy it? )
  6. I know WA closed their borders but rejecting packages several times is a bit much - maybe that's how they do quarantine? Keep sending it back until ebough time has passed the covid must have died? The side trip to Bendigo is a bit of a 'WTF?' moment though! And Golden Square is IN Bendigo so they got it at the Central PO then sent it 3 kms to GS?
  7. SWMBO knows about this thread so she sent me these pics from her Auspost. No wonder they keep putting their prices up!
  8. Thanks Old Bloke - and have a great time.
  9. Ahh... it's that time of year again where we look back and go, "WTF! How can it be Christmas AGAIN? It's only been 6 bloody months!" And then we look ahead...
  10. It would make sense - remove a fairly significant cost of keeping large volumes at sub-room temps for weeks while they ferment would be an advantage.
  11. IMO I think ODI's were a great innovation against tests, but they've also spoiled a large part of test. See, (again IMO) tests are more a strategic game and ODI's are tactical. T20's are aptly called 'big bash' - while it takes skill there is no time for finesse, planning or tactics other than hit the F***er over the fence. But ODI's also spoiled tests. It was thrilling to watch a player like Gilchrist come out as an operner and sit the opposition back on their heels with 60 or more in 10 overs, but once that caught on, straegy dwindled. IMO Ponting was never the strategist that Waugh or Border was, (which is why I think he had issues between being a batsman and a captain) but in the new version of tests the lack wasn't so obvious. Now, I think in tests the straegies are set by the previous greats - kinda like playing out a game of chess according to moves made by 'X' grandmaster. Without the possibility of watching a good strategist directing a win, tests are a lot less interesting. And, TBH, I think big money ruined the game as much as it has in footy. Although cricket had another sin to help it down the hill - the partisanship of the selectors where good players would be ignored or dropped for one poor innings while others could fail time and again and keep their place. Thje Boys Club is strong in that committee. e.g. Warne versus McGill or how long it took for the Hussey's to get a foothold despite their performances in State level.
  12. Where can it go? It doesn't have to go anywhere, because maybe the heat simply changes the chemicals involved? There's got to be a reason why the same product (hops) can give such diferent results depending on temp and/or length of time AT a temp. Conversion of the chemicals would seem logical.
  13. Just be aware it does have some bittering already so don't go overboard on bittering hops.
  14. I do that normally, and in fact did it this time. But there's a problem - the sample is nowhere near as quick to ferment and a major part of why I want to ferment under pressure is the saving in time.
  15. Roller grinders are (AFAIK) the grain grinder type like many AG'ers on here use. Blade grinders are like food processors - spinning blades that munch things into dust if you go slightly too long. Quite hard to get an even 'grind' with them as you wind up with widely variable sizes. Burr grinders such as the EM0480 are more like the roler grinders except the 2 grinding surfaces are vertical cones that squeeze the contents down the fluted burrs.
  16. And you don't need to burp it to keep it running?
  17. I did my 1st attempt at FG 2 days back and had the exact opposite issue. After 4 days at 12 psi, the beer is so heady I couldn't get a read for all the foam - and that was AFTER I swirled the hydro, poured it back & forth in cups several times. 24 hours later the head was low enough I could guesstimate the level but swirling the hydro stirred it up again! It's in CC now and will pressure transfer later. 1 question though... I plan to pressure the keg to 2 psi below the kegmenter to push the beer through slow enough to avoid head issues - if I hook a gas-to-gas line up back to the kegmenter will a siphon effect keep it running or will pressure equalise and I will need to burp the keg?
  18. Maybe. You would have to try it to make sure it was doing something chunkier than the powder level you normally want for espresso. Don't use a blade one though - they make powder and all your grain will wind up going stright through the filter/bag.
  19. Simple as... takes a couple of minutes tops to do and hardest part is that the nut holding the bottom burr down is right hand thread. Basically, take hopper off, wind out the 'scale' all the way, (have to press the button to get past the stop) lift it off (make sure to keep top burr in place) and there are the bottom burrs. Unscreww, lift, remove shims and reassemble. Only gotchas are that RH nut and the top burr only works properly in one orientation - and there are only 2 positions. Even there, there's a 'flat' spot showing where the back of the burr is if it comes out - simpler just to hold it in place as you l;ift the scale part off. Feed grain in the top, flick switch & fill container under the spout. You can keep the rubber spout on but even without it, there's no mess. Get the EM0480 - there's an EM0450 very similar but I doubt you'd find one of them. And the EM0700 range is likely getting up there in price. ($250+) You can get a decent grain mill for not a lot more than that.
  20. He'll be like Nadal... Remember how he had 1 big arm?
  21. I use a spare Sunbeam coffee grinder - does up to 500g at a time and does it so well I often re-grind the milled grains from Beerbelly, just to get the consistency. I removed the shims under the burr and wound it all the way out to coarsest. It just burrs through the grain and doesn't even warm up - I think the grain seems an easier deal than the coffee beans. Maybe one day, if I ever get around to AG, I might look at a grain mill but at those prices it's a tough call. And I've got 3 EM480's so there's a spare if either the coffee or grain one decides to go to God. But I did look at @Pale Man's pic and kinda sigh. I guess we all want bling in the rbew room.
  22. True - didn't notice that - International and OS are cheaper though. I wonder why BigW didn't do as much for the TC range? (although I think their normal is like $24. Mostly for cans I just wait for the ROTM to drop then order what I want - does anyone know if Coopers are still limiting orders to 6 cans? @Coopers DIY Beer Team??
  23. If I didn't have a cupboard full I'd be in that. Cheaper even than Coopers Members price.
  24. Simple choice. Keep the one that is best for MAKING beer. He ain't going to be brewing if all he has is the keg end - and from what I've read avbout sodastream setups, he's also likely to spend quite some time wishing for gas. So I am assuming here you plan to provide him with supplies for his keg so you need the best option for MAKING the beer, not for serving it.
  25. Last onsite back on Aug 17th. Where is you are @Norris!?
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