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Gerhard vdW

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  1. Hi Everyone, I boiled hops for the first time in a batch that I was brewing on Sunday. I put the hops in a hop bag and then added the bag to the boiling wort. I think I made 2 mistakes. 1. The hop bag was too small, so as soon as I put it in the wort, it swelled up to maximum capacity which I think did not give me the full flavor extraction as it would when using a bigger bag. Is that true or does it make any difference if I would use a bigger bag? 2. I pressed the bag a couple of times thinking I would get the flavor out of it better, which I think I should not have done. I tasted the beer after 3 days today and the taste is great, but I noticed this sediment immediately at the bottom of my glass which had a greenish type of colour. Could that be hop sediment that came through the hop bag? Or do you think something else is wrong with the beer? The canned of pilsner extract which I used had expired a couple of months back, but I thought to give it a try anyway. There was a few crystalized sugars in there, but I think that mostly disappeared when I stirred the extract into the FV. Just adding this info if you think that could have something to do with the sediment at the bottom of my glass. As always, thank you for the advice. Gerhard
  2. Hi Shamus, thank you for the information, I will follow those instructions then. I hope this one comes out nice.
  3. Hi Everyone I was thinking of eventually brewing this recipe below this weekend: https://www.diybeer.com/au/recipe/k9-quencher-session-ale.html I have never done a steep before, so I was hoping to get some advice on what temperature to steep the Cars Hell and Cara Rye grains in? Secondly, I do not have Columbus hops to do the bittering boil. I only have Centennial, Simcoe and Cascade. Which one do you suggest I add as the bittering hop? Would 25 grams be enough of any of those hops to get the same bittering effect or do you suggest adding a few grams more? Thanks for the advice
  4. Thank you for your detailed explanations Norris, I appreciate it. I recon I can do a trial run with 5 bottles where the air is squeezed out and compare it to the ones who aren't, that should give some sort of indication. I only have Centennial, Simcoe and Amarillo hops. Do you recon I could use Centennial as the bittering hop and then Simcoe and Amarillo to dry hop? Or would you suggest another combo?
  5. Another thing I would like to ask regarding this recipe which I included above: After you have steeped the grains and start the boil, do I have to wait for the hot break to pass before adding the hops? Will there be a hot break since there are no base malts? Also, how long should I boil the grains before adding the hops?
  6. Thanks for the advice, I think I could just stick to this recipe then. I will however do the double dry hop so that I get that nice aroma from it. I previously made a coopers IPA and dry hopped with 50 gm of Motueka, 25 gm Cascade and 25 gm Centennial. After bottling and letting it sit for a couple of weeks, it seems that the oxygen kind of destroyed the aroma. Would it help if I squeeze the air out of the bottles before I put the cap on?
  7. Thanks for the advise, I have been reading about these things but I guess the best way to learn is in practice. Is there any specific amount of base malts to add if I wish to add oats as well? Would the base malts then replace my pilsner extract?
  8. Sorry for asking, but I am quite a newb in this regard. Does the Caramel Hell and Caramel Rye grains not count as a base grain? Or will I have to add some 2 row or something in as well?
  9. Hey Everyone, I have a can (1.7kg) of hopped pilsner extract and another can of unhopped wheat malt extract which was earmarked for a wheat beer. Thing is, I just finished a batch of home brew wheat beer and I am quite fed up with the taste for now, so I was hoping for some alternatives. I was thinking if I could use these extracts to make an IPA or preferably a NEIPA. I would like to start incorporating mini mashing or even partial mashing into this recipe. I also have 100g each of Centennial, Amarillo and Simcoe hops. I know water chemistry is really important with the NEIPA style beers, but I don't have the equipment for that so I will have to skip that part. https://www.diybeer.com/au/recipe/k9-quencher-session-ale.html I found this recipe on Coopers site which looks great already. What do you think if I add some flaked oats with the steep/mini mash and replace the yeast with some sort of London Ale yeast (any other suggestions would be appreciated)? I will also dry hop a lot more than the recipe suggest. Could that start to resemble a Neipa of some sort? As always, thank you guys for your input, I appreciate it
  10. Thank you, I may very well try one of these when I have my mates over for a barbecue in the summer. I would like to start incorporating some mini mashing in my recipes soon, so I will be on the lookout for some great summer beers soon.
  11. Thanks for the advice everyone, I think I may just stick to other brews for now
  12. Hi Everyone I live in Finland where most of our beers are kind of pale lagers. I was hoping to try and make something similar at home from a brewing kit and was wondering if anyone has any good recipes that I can use. I have access to all coopers beer kits and the other necessary stuff. I also don't have the possibility to ferment at low temperatures, the room where I ferment is at a constant 19-20 degree celsius. I know this is a bit of a challenge but any help will be appreciated. I have not tired the Canadian Blonde or European Lager kits, since I am not sure at what temperature they should ferment? I like a lager with quite a nice body and mouth-feel, so I would most probably want to cut out the dextrose and replace it with malt extract if possible? Thank you all in advance for the advice
  13. Hi Everyone I am reposting this from another thread. I was thinking of trying out one of the Mr Beer brewing extracts and noticed that they only produce 8.5liters. Can I still bree this in my 23L FV? Or will the extra oxygen be bad for the brew?
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