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Lab Rat

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Lab Rat last won the day on April 24

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  1. What Otto said - gravity tells the story. It doesn't have to look like it's fermenting, to be fermenting.
  2. Day 10 taster of the Chubby Cherub. Can't see this being a second time brew for me. And the Coopers description is a bit all over the map. First, Coopers recipe pic shows a light golden beer, much like Little Creatures, one of the styles it's based on. My beer, brewed to their recipe is a medium copper more like any of my winter ales (LC on the left, CC on the right). The taste is closer to Coopers description - stone fruit and marmalade, nothing remotely like LC, which, having just bought one, is subtly hoppy and floral. However, both LC and the CC use the same hops - Cascade and Chinook. Don't know what other beer they based this on, but it must taste more like that one.
  3. I've learnt a lesson very slowly. Never judge a beer by what it taste like on sampling. With some, don't even bother making a judgement till they're 2 months in the bottle. The last Pilsner I brewed had the rancid rotten egg fart in a spacesuit smell to it, right up to bottling. It was fine when ready for drinking. I use Coopers yeasts a lot as well. But didn't with the Pilsner. Hmmm....
  4. I wouldn't overthink it. A brown kit and the creamy brown unhopped extract will give you all the malt and sweet you need. All you need is some bittering to balance it out. I haven't tried the BR creamy brown extract, let us know how it goes. I've done light, amber and Crystal malt tins as fermentablest his winter and the Amber is my favourite, it works with the Real ale and a bitter kit very well. The crystal was interesting, but overtook the Real ale a bit, so probably wouldn't use a whole tin of this liquid again.
  5. I found this with most of my winter experiments. None too sweet, but a kit and amber malt does throw the balance that way. I'd be trying the usual suspect English hops as well - EKG, Goldings. Challenger or Target could work well too, but I have trouble finding them locally.
  6. The Porter should be fairly flat - that's the style of beer it is, but it should have a head. The carbing rates for these are usually lower to ensure that. But if it's been stored lower than 18C for most of this time, the yeast will have gone dormant and if an extended period below 18C, the yeast might not be viable anymore. I've used a lot of Coopers kit yeasts and only had real issues with one batch in 20+ brews. I doubt the yeasts are at fault.
  7. The Coopers instructions are pretty simple, it's intended for those who have no gear or fridges. You'll have got a generic light ale of some description, but not a lager. There are far better kits that will brew at low 20C
  8. You can't get a lager style beer brewing at 24c. As others have said, the warmer you brew, the more esters you get into the beer, so you end up getting further away from the cold, wet, bubbly tasteless beer that is commercial lager. With the headache, wondering how you brewed this? Did you do the standard lager tin to 23l, your beer looks a lot darker than I remember the lager turning out.
  9. A brewing definition I read included it as a desirable one in some beers. Not any of mine. Not even a wheat. Some people love sours, to me, it's off beer and the kind of thing Heston Bluemthal would have come up with. Only he'd find a way to get bacon in there.
  10. 1 pack of yeast is enough for fermentation. Reading the recipe, the Wheat yeast addition is there to supply the esters - phenolic (spicey, medicinal) and banana type flavours that many wheat beers have as a characteristic. For some, these are "off" flavours. So Coopers suggest leaving that yeast out if you want to minimise those.
  11. Beer for everyone and all is forgiven.
  12. I would give the hops 4 days in the FV, that should be plenty of time. If you CC with the hop bag in there it will drop to the bottom and disturb your yeast and wort when you fish it out. So I'd take it out before crashing. You can reuse the yeast slurry. Leave a bit of beer in the bottom after you've bottled it, swirl and bottle the yeast. Keep it in the fridge.
  13. I've had a couple of whole 23l batches like this. Not dead flat, but not far off. I'm not sure why, as all my processes and carbing is the same. I'm re-using the same PETs and flip tops and if there were issues with those, I'd get them all the time. It could simply be certain kits and recipes?
  14. Some of the yeast will end up in the bottles, no mater how long you leave it to settle on the bottom. You need yeast in the bottles, as the sugar you add needs it for a second fermentation in the bottle, to carbonate it (bottle conditioning) Coopers still do this with their commercial beers.
  15. Great thanks. It's an AG, but I can see what Coopers were doing there, replicating the pale and caramel malts with the light and amber malt tins. I thought SN had Cascade, cascade and more cascade. Cooper CC description suggests they were going for something like a SN/Little Creatures style
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