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Gus96

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Everything posted by Gus96

  1. thanks Karlos, it did steep for about 5 mins after I took it off the boil while I faffed around getting ready to pour it into the FV. time will tell I suppose.
  2. Turns out the offending gas connect was a Kegland one and not the CMB which came with the Kegerator new. See the attached pic and the one with the black insert is the culprit, not sure why I didn't pick the difference before.my LHBS is going to supply me with a new one, gratis. they also have new full 6KG gas bottles going cheap so I got a spare. apparently there is a price war going on between suppliers.
  3. Thanks, but it's definitely the connector as there is still gas in the bottle. Turning the bottle off the serving pressure stays the same but the bottle level drops to nothing in seconds. Years of welding helps finding gas leak problems.
  4. Well it seems I spoke too soon regarding leaking connectors. I lost half a bottle of gas last night due to a faulty CMB connector after swapping out an empty keg. Only noticed the gauge had dropped when pouring my second beer for the day, Swapped a few connects around and found the culprit. off the LHBS tomorrow for some SS ones.
  5. There was no foam on top when I pitched and I know what to look at when fermentation starts, and that activity is a kruasen forming. I may not have the amount of experience of some of you, only 80 odd brews but I knw what I seen.
  6. While you may doubt that fermentation has started I could see that it had through the clear lid. and this is how it looks 18hrs later
  7. Yesterday I was a bit time poor when putting my Coopers Artisan Reserve together, so I cheated a bit and mixed up the recipe steps. While I think it shouldn't matter much I thought I would get an opinion from some of you here. https://www.diybeer.com/au/recipe/coopers-artisan-reserve.html While waiting for my DME to boil and adding hops, I put the remaining DME and kit into the FV stirred it up with a few litres of water. Then when my hop boil was done I strained it into the FV without chilling like the recipe calls for, then topped FV with chilled water to 23 litres. I managed to hit 18.5 degrees (recipes suggests 18 deg). Pitched 2 x W34/70 dry and before I had finished cleaning up all the gear (less than an hour) I heard the lovely gloop gloop sound (yes, I still use an airlock). So what I want to know is does anybody think the different chill method will affect the DME and hop boil in any adverse way. It certainly chilled it down quicker than the boil pot in the ice cold sink method. Cheers
  8. I try and put a six pack away from each batch for a later tasting just for this reason and keep notes on change / improvements. I also found the Oktoberfest improved after 4 to 6 months later. Yesterday I had a couple of stubbies of a brew that I had written off as a fail 10 months ago, a definite improvement in carbonation and head retention. The back story to this was the first time using a yeast slurry and it appeared the brew failed to ferment with no krausen at all and no signs of activity hence a double pitch, left in the FV for 3 weeks then bottled it (FG 1005). After trying one every other month with a bland flat no taste experience I almost tossed it a few times. But I had space so left it and always had three in the fridge. While it is no where near a good beer it's drinkable and it got better with age.
  9. BB, that has given me a good idea for one as well. I had been looking at getting a neon made up but too expensive for me and the cheep assed led lights at the Coventry's market in Morley were just too bright and nasty looking.
  10. I was turning the gas off every night when I first set up my Kegerator being paranoid about leaks, it seemed to loose pressure overnight but finally worked out that it was gas being absorbed into the beer for carbonation and not a leak. But 6 months down the track, no leaks and leave it on all the time.
  11. I usually rinse after drinking at the end of the night then stack them till I have around 20 then stick them in the dishwasher on a normal cycle but without any detergent or finish tablets, works for me.
  12. I only take OG readings when I deviate from my regular K & K recipes because it only varies a few points from brew to brew and they all finish around the same. I do take FG readings though to make sure its done before cold crashing.
  13. I got one of these for my HB, https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Water-Filter-Bench-Counter-Top-Activated-Carbon-Filters-Sink-Benchtop-Countertop/112366817151?hash=item1a29958f7f:m:mXRbE2d_Mmhr6fqY9pD2AlA Improved not only my beer but tea & coffee as well. Perth water may be different to QLD
  14. Anyone who is going to Baysie to get a bag, you have to mention the FB code" # effective in store"
  15. My LHBS has 25kg bags of sodium percarbonate going for $65 for the next 2 weeks (a FB special for customers) , picked up a bag today . Bayswater WA. Should take me a while to get through that (if ever) but will be cheaper in the long run than buying 1kg batches
  16. Only one FV, I am shocked. don't you have 6 or 7 kegs? I always (try) have 2 FV's going and have now progressed to 6 kegs.
  17. Yep I have to agree, following/adapting the Coopers recipes has certainly worked for me
  18. How long is a piece of string , it depends on many factors, do you want beer, good beer or great beer? In three weeks (I week ferment, 2 weeks bottle or any combination of these) you will get beer A longer controlled ferment and longer storage will improve your kit to good beer. To get great beer you need to step everything up and learn the processes required to get it that way. there is no real shortcuts to great beer
  19. Yakima_Chief_Hops_Varieties_19.02.04.pdf Hop Substitution Chart.pdf
  20. Did the tap half open once when doing two batches in a rush, didn't loose to much. The tap not tight on another one, lost about half a litre in the freezer while fermenting. lessons learned.
  21. Not so much my fault, but went to the turn on the freezer this morning to get my top up water down to 10 deg for todays brew and it's got about 6 litres of water swimming in the bottom. One of my el-cheapo 10ltr containers had sprung a leak yesterday, luckily the bung in the bottom had a good seal so it didn't end up all over the floor.
  22. This blurb came with my kegerator set up; Natural Conditioning Clean and sanitise the keg thoroughly. Prime with sugar at the rate of 4g per litre. Rack via a piece of sanitised, flexible tubing so that the beer runs to the bottom of the keg. Leave 5 – 10 cm of headspace at the top. Seal the keg then invert and give it a shake to mix the sugar and check that the seal is good. Store at 18°C or above for a week, then allow the beer to condition for at least two weeks. Refrigerate for a day or two, momentarily release the keg pressure, then connect the gas at required pouring pressure 35 – 100 kPa, depending on your system.
  23. When I went to a keg demo day at my LHBS it was explained to me that the CO2 is heavier than the air inside so when filling and burping the bad air is expelled before the CO2. I cold crash all my batches so when filling he condensation on the outside is a good indicator of how full the keg is and my FV has indicator marks on the side in litre increments so that also helps.
  24. No tricks, it's that simple. BUT make sure before you open the FV tap let the gas pressure out otherwise you will fill the FV with a rush of bubbles that may ruin your cold crash efforts.
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