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Marty_G

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Everything posted by Marty_G

  1. Tasted good too. Would be really smashable now but will be a whole lot better with a couple of week keg conditioning.
  2. I have had no issue with it at all. I use it to get rid of chill haze and it seems to work. I can't comment on the problem Otto has had or if I have had it. I pressure ferment in SS and close transfer. So once the FV is sealed I only see the beer in the transfer line when filling the keg and then in the glass. In the glass it looks great. The attached pic is of an English Bitter I just pulled. The haze is condensation on the glass. I kid you not that is the 1st beer out of the keg. No sediment. That was grain 16 days ago. It was 8 days till 2days stable. Then cold crashed to 0.9c. Gelatin and BioFine added to FV 3 days after the crash started then kegged on Sunday so 6 days cold crash. Now been sitting in Keezer at ~2c since Sunday. The other pic is a few minutes later after I had a couple of sips.
  3. That is 100% correct. Cold crashing in kegs get a good trub layer in the keg and the 1st few pours can be be all sediment but will clear after that. Also because of the trub layer if you move the keg it get resuspended a tad. Best practice is to cold crash before kegging. I know this because I have been there and done that. At one stage I was cold crashing in the keg and filtering my kegs and was shocked at the amount of sediment that was still in my kegged beer. Now I cold crash in the FV as I described above and have as close to zero sediment as I can get. As Otto described it is a fine sparse dusting on the bottom of the keg. Where as before it was a layer a few millimetres in thickness.
  4. I am at "The Brew Store Noosa" . Don't know if you been there but it is a great shop. The guy who owns it is a brewer. Stocks everything you would need at great prices. Over 40 different grains and same with the hops. Loads of FWKs when they are available. The stock can get a bit low at times though. Drop in one day and say high. Open 9-1 Saturdays.
  5. I work on Saturdays in the LHBS and we sell a lot of them. We sell mostly to guys who like the time savings and want hoppier beer styles. Most blokes spend about $60 for the FWK, hops for dry hopping and yeast. They are pretty quick to do. Just pour into the FV add a few litres of water, yeast and wait. It is still cheap for them as the styles they make would be close to $60 for a dozen cans at a local craft brewery. Where I live on the Sunny Coast there are plenty of those around.
  6. I am now a huge advocate of cold crashing. If you can get the FV to about 1c or a tad less for 4 day minimum you will see a significant reduction in sediment and an improvement in clarity. If you use clearing agents as Otto suggests you will see very clear beer. The thing you will notice with your kegs is the almost total loss of the trub layer on the bottom of the keg. I have tried several ways to reduce the sediment load in my kegs but have found crashing the best and easiest way. Like most things to do with brewing it has been trial and error that has got me to this point but I have found buying an old freezer and using that as a fermentation chamber the best way to go as they will get you to under 1c and hold it more efficiently than a fridge. I like chest freezers as I pressure ferment so can transfer under pressure but a mate has an upright with moveable shelves he uses because he needs gravity to transfer his beer. After it has been at 1c for a couple of days I add gelatin and "Biofine Clear" to improve the clarity. Gelatin will help remove suspended particles and "Biofine Clear" will help with chill haze. Good thing about a second freezer is you can also have overflow kegs that are conditioning in there and drink from those with a party tap to sample their progress. Naturally that all depends on space. Oh if you hold out you can pick up chest freezers for about $50 on GumTree or FB MarketPlace. At times I make Keezers as a side project and have picked up freezers from Free to $150 depending on size, age and condition.
  7. Put this through today. Forgot to put my salts in but I use rainwater so it is not a huge issue. I have been making all manner of European style malt driven beers for the last couple of years. Mostly double batches for myself and son who has very conservative tastes. Pilsners, EBs, Irish Reds, Koschs, Australian Lagers and Sparkling ales. Recently made a smaller batches of APA for my self just for a bit of difference. Must admit enjoyed the APA which was Simcoe, Galaxy and Nelson rather than the Amarillo, Galaxy and NS in this one. Think this will have a broader citrus flavour with orange from the Amarillo to compliment the Galaxy as Simcoe has some similar flavours to Galaxy. I used the dregs of my Simcoe for bittering. Fermenting under pressure with US05 at 21c and 15psi. Should be ready in 10 days or so. Will be using the FV as a unitank for this so once it has cold crashed I will be start slowly drinking it. Not much more to add really.
  8. I concur will not be an issue. There are many old school brewers who still advocate leaving in the FV for 14days minimum.
  9. You using the usual recipe with a bit of black malt in it? I made your recipe a few months ago and started drinking last week. First beer out of the keg and it was WTF it's oxidised then I remembered it is a tad darker because of the black malt. Did my head in for a sec.
  10. all the answers above are perfect but to answer in my context: I take an SG sample when I pitch because I make my beers from scratch with grain. I need an SG reading so I know I have done it right or as they say "hit my numbers". The rest is exactly as AussieKraut says above.
  11. @fredpace don't put to much into SG readings. They are important but the most important one is the one that show fermentation is over. That is when the SG has been stable for 48 hours. A ball park estimate of when that would be is around 5-7daysish. I brew "all grain" and I take a sample after I pitch the yeast and then that sample ferments in the tube when that has stopped dropping I take a new sample and monitor that for a couple of days. Now I don't pitch the yeast the way the kit advise. I pitch it about half way through filling the fermenter so it get mixed into the wort. The pic is of a sample I took on Monday after I pitched my latest brew. As you can see from the froth, Krausen, it is fermenting in the sample tube. When that stops fermenting I will take a new sample.
  12. @Tangles1 the only issue I see with that unitank scenario is you leaving it for a week at 12psi before drinking. You should be able to drink an ale immediately it has reached the cold crash temp as it will be carbonated during the ferment. Also leaving the yeast in the UniTank at cold temps should not be a huge issue. Read my last post on the pressure fermenting thread from this morning and you will see what I mean.
  13. Here is one of the benefits of fermenting under pressure: This brew was 7 days grain to glass. Yesterday morning it two days stable SG so ready to cold crash. Started cold crash at 9am yesterday then at 4pm it was at 3c. The brew was naturally carbonated from the pressure fermentation and cold. So I had 4 of these yesterday arvo straight from the FV. Great little drop a Pacific Pale Ale using Aussie, US and NZ hops. Nice change for me as I usually do not brew this type of beer but must say it is very good. Will leave it crashing for a few more days to clarify some more then keg it.
  14. @jamiek86 as they say, whoever they are, "don't fear the foam"
  15. G'day and welcome. You will get some good tips if you read this thread by another new brewer.
  16. @Norris! has a good point there. The usual by-products of fermentation that can cause "off" flavour need to be cleaned up by the yeast at the end of ferment. However, this is not a silver bullet for all off flavours. Some will not be cleaned up. The off flavours that are a result of too high a ferment temp are some that can not be cleaned up as they are formed at the higher temp. However, those that are from being at the correct temp can be. That is why it is the correct temp. If the makes sense. The usual ferment process is final gravity for 48 hours and then it is considered finished and "cleaned up". Many leave it for a couple of days longer which can be good practice. Then you can move to the next step which can be a mix of any of these. Package, leave longer or cold crash. The cold crash helps with clarity. My routine is leave for about 72 hours after FG is reached, cold crash at 1c for 7 about days then package.
  17. If you want to make consistent good tasting beers accurate temp control is the way to go. Grab yourself a cheap fridge, freezers are better as they have better insulation, and an InkBird so you can override the thermostat and set the appliance to an accurate stable temp. It really is worth the investment. At most it will cost a couple of hundred all up. Keeping the temp stable and at the optimum temp is the first and easiest step to consistent results. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/224193706132?epid=630720614&hash=item3432fc7894:g:oMYAAOSwnHBfhpoR
  18. I can tell you with great confidence the chemical tastes are fusel and phenolics that come from too high a ferment temp. 32c is way too high and it hit that right at the critical stage when ferment 1st starts. It is during that stage that most of the "off" compounds are made. Best way to stop it is to use temperature control or place FV in a spot that has stable stable temp. invthe low 20sC The yeast in the Coopers Lager is not a lager yeast it is an ale yeast so atemp of around 20c will be great. If using a prper lager yeast like in the Eurolager kit it needs to be at 10-12c. However, a popular lager yeast W34/70 can be "clean" at 15c.
  19. Yep, I know that. My comment was more in the context of the flavourless content of his post. In a way Captain and I are similar. I just can't cop the taste of esters. So when I do ales I use very neutral yeasts and ferment under pressure. I suppose it is a bit like the coriander taste. Some people love it and for some it tastes absolutely terrible. Captain has that with lager yeasts and I with esters. Bit of a bummer really as it basically cuts out brewing anything that uses Abby or Belgium yeasts and Witbiers.
  20. Think that is a bit of a slap in the face for those who think their K&K beers are OK. Personal taste is a weird thing. I realise you did not mention pale ales but as an example: I have tasted many an IPA and the myriad of versions DIPA, XPA, APA, NEIPA that to me taste like dish water. To me many, not all mind, use hops to hide poorly put together grists. Now that is my opinion and as I said personal taste is a funny thing. Many knock some lagers for being bland and the mega swills are. However at the other extreme some of the pale ale styles are the opposite. They have a lack of balance at the other end of the spectrum. Kit and kilo can be both poorly and well made and a well made K&K which is aged can taste pretty good. I have tasted some great stouts that are K&K which have been in the bottle for a year or more.
  21. Oh Captain you have lead such a sheltered life. There are many great lager styles that are driven by great malts that have wonderful flavour. Not all lagers are lawnmower beers. As an aspiring professional you may need to work on that. Maybe a ripper of a Dunkel, a Schwarzbier or Czech amber and dark lagers. They are far from flavorless. You may get a great deal of pride by making an outstanding version of a beer style that you don't drink.
  22. Been great reading everyone's story. Mine is: I returned to brewing after about a 20 years hiatus. That was nearly four years ago when I retired. I bought a Coopers kit from Woolies and started brewing the same way as I did back in the late 80's and 90's. Open FV with no heat control. I acquired a huge amount of bottles. Over 300 each of tallies and stubbies. The reason being, back in the day one had to age the beer for an eternity before it tasted OK. Then I jumped on this forum and I found things had changed quite a bit. Temp control was used as were better yeasts. People brewed with hops and grain. All grain brewing was a thing and kegging was common. Being the sort of guy who craves knowledge I absorbed as much info as I could. I sorted the old wives tales out from the facts and started making better tasting beer. I started buying and selling HB gear. I acquired a fridge for free and bought an ink bird for temp control. This lead me into flipping HB gear. I would find gear for a good price pick out the item I wanted then flip it. I quickly realized that the second hand market for HB gear is very active. I started to invest the small profits I made flipping gear into improving my brewing. In that time I sold my bottles slowly acquired kegs then sold them for more recent ones. At every stage increasing the gear I had. I graduated to AG and made myself a keg fridge. I have since moved from keg fridges to Keezers and have made several for myself. When using each one I realised that it could be improved. I made myself a new one and sold my old ones. I then realized they were a commodity. I now have a 4 tap 8 keg keezer and as aside project occasionally make and sell keezers to fund my hobby. I have a 2 vessel 70 litre BIAB set up with a HERMES coil in a 20 litre electric urn PID controlled to manage my mash temp and a 100,000 BTU gas burner for my 70 litre mash tun/boiler. I pressure ferment in repurposed 50 litre kegs. I watch all my numbers and do mineral adjustments to my tank water for the style I am making and pH adjustment. I generally make European style lagers. Czech Pils, Vienna lagers and the like. English Bitter and Irish Red ales also. I regularly make Australian style lagers, Australian Sparkling ales and Asian style beers where flaked rice is a good % of the grist. All usually double batches. Yesterday I did my first single batch for a while. It is an American Pale Ale. With a grist which is complex to give it a malt backbone to hang some hops off. I read someone recommend David Heath he is good however, I would recommend the Homebrew Challenge above him. He is a pommy guy called Martin Keene who lives in the USA and has just finished brewing every style in the BJCP style guide. His recipes are great and if you want to get into different styles he has all 99 of them in 99 weeks. Interestingly most of the styles are lagers. So, I suppose I have gone from a rudimentary brewer to advanced in 4 years or so. Oh and the retirement has sort of been put on the back burner a tad as I now work in the LHBS. I had been going in and buying my grains and hops off him for a while and naturally having a chat about brewing. Then out of the blue he offered me a job. It is only 5 or 6 hours a week but I like it and it is good to chat to other brewers. Anyway that is me now.
  23. can find it all in this document. https://bjcp.org/docs/2015_Guidelines_Beer.pdf
  24. This is the 1975 recipe for "Tooheys Old". As this is a commercial recipe they took short cuts to save costs. I would suggest cutting back on the golden syrup as it give lots of syrup flavour. maybe use 500g. As you can see the bulk of the colour comes from the Parisian essence which I have found difficult to get as small bottles are no longer manufactured. Maybe try some black malt and a bit of a chocolate malts to get to the 50 EBC colour as the 20g of roasted malt will not get you there. Or if you can get it a dark candied sugar will do it. Anyway that is the recipe for an authentic 1975 Tooheys old. Or Black as we called it at the time. Probably best to do recipe as is first and then tweek to your flavour later on. Maybe just scale it to a 10 litre batch. Recipe is from "Bronzed Brews" by Peter Symons. It is a great resource for old Aussie recipes and available print on demand on LuLu. I have 2 of his books. I also have "6 O'clock Brews".
  25. Brew day is tomorrow and this is what is planned. An Irish Red Ale.
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