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  1. So cold crash starting today. Will stick it on gas at about 10psi and see what happens.
  2. So I'm on day four now and pressure is starting to drop, from 11psi, it's down around 9. I reckon this means active fermentation is finished (or at least finishing) but I'll take a reading to confirm. Might stick my flow control tap on the liquid disconnect to get a sample. I'll leave it for a few days then cold crash, most likely start crashing on Saturday. Question for you guys though, do you pressurise during cold crash? I believe that the colder it gets, the more CO2 it absorbs, possibly leading to negative pressure. It strikes me as wise to stick the gas on it at 10psi or so while cold crashing. Is this a good move? If I do this, how well carbed is it likely to be by the end of cold crash? Cheers Steve
  3. Yeah it is. You want it to be dropping, that's the yeast doing it's thing. What temperature did you get it to?
  4. Hey Paddy, I'm still fiddling as you did. Finding it hard to get that sweet spot where it doesn't keep dropping but it's not completely closed. Any tips for this based on your experience? Here's my setup btw. Dark Ale can and a BE3 at 19°. Cheers Steve
  5. Going 23l. I brewed that same beer ( Nelson's) and yeah, it's fantastic. The one in my post is the bits and pieces left from other brews. Mid strength - I like to do one every second brew. Thanks for the input Lusty, if you reckon it's a winner, it's getting done! Cheers Steve
  6. An interesting idea! Here's one for you, how to balance malt vs bitterness in a lower abv beer. Would appreciate some input, decent or drain cleaner? Pale ale can 500g LDM 300g light crystal, hot steeped 60 mins, 2 litres 25g Cascade for 10 mins 25g Amarillo at flameout 50g Cascade dry hop
  7. Thanks, this makes more sense I reckon!
  8. Hi guys, Thanks for sharing your insights on this. It seems that, as with a lot of things in homebrewing, different people do things slightly differently. I do get the huge benefits of cold crashing and it's actually my preference - my old fermenting fridge takes forever to get down to the right temp though so sometimes impatience/low supply gets the better of me and I don't bother with it! Haven't had my equipment delivered yet but definitely some points to ponder here, cheers! Steve
  9. Hi all, Watching this thread with interest! Just invested in a pressure fermenter and spunding valve, likely to stick my first brew on next week. Here's my thinking, please feel free to point out any potential pitfalls! Do a simple recipe, probably the Unreal Ale. Cheap, easy and no dry hopping. Set up spunding valve. From what I've read, you pressurise a vessel to, say 15 PSI, attach the spunding valve to the gas post fully open. Wind it in until gas stops escaping at desired pressure, say 12 psi. Don't turn it off completely though. Ferment. Two schools of thought here it seems. Ferment at normal temp (18-20) or go higher if you don't want esters from the yeast. Fermenting higher finishes it quicker. Cold crash - optional. If I do, probably release pressure to about 5 psi as lots of natural CO2 will be absorbed into the colder beer (not sure about this!) Decant from fermenter to keg using closed transfer. Beer should be mostly carbonated due to natural CO2 but might need a day or two on gas to finish it off. I think I've made it sound way easy, there's got to be a catch right? Cheers Steve
  10. Legend, thanks! You're now my favourite uncle.
  11. Hi troops, I used to have a copy of the spreadsheet but I now can't find it, is anyone able to share please? Thanks! Steve
  12. Hey guys, Got most of the ingredients for this. Looking at the recipe though, if you don't use the commercial yeast culture it recommends kit yeast. Seems a little light on yeast for the amount of fermentables, what do you think? Cheers Steve
  13. Sounds good, bit of a beast abv wise tho!
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