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Gully85 last won the day on June 26 2018

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  1. My house pale in development. Late additions only Columbus, citra and nelson. Nelson only added at flame out. Very nice and I'm enjoying what Columbus brings to the table.
  2. If your going NEIPA look at dry hopping during active fermentation. So 50g lot 1 day after pitching yeast another 50g lot just as fermentation is completing, about 2-3 points from FG. let sit for a few days to soak up all the juice (and finish fermenting) bottle or keg trying to minimise the introduction of O2 and then drink as fresh as you possibly can. Did a Hort hopped pale like this, turned out very fruity/tropical. Enjoy
  3. Tonight's brew Might be swapping the Nels for Idaho #7
  4. Yeah, both guys cater mainly for AG. Best bet would be beerbelly then. Is there still a Country brewer in prospect, Churchill Rd?
  5. Both the guys are based from their homes so not a brick and mortar shop. Really good guys, but I don't think they stock extracts. Grains, yeast and hops defantly. Chris can be found here: https://ibrewsa.com Daniel can be found here: https://www.hopworksbrewingsupplies.com/ Otherwise, your really limited in suppliers around Adelaide for extracts. Just dont really have the population to sustain to many LHBS.
  6. Daniel at Hopworks at port adelaide or Chris at IBrewSA in meadows. You'll find both these guy compedative and you will be supporting a small business whom has that great personal touch. Get in touch over the internet and they will help you out
  7. Tip, use the softest water (think that's the right term) tried out those cask water and made it so much delishousness!!!
  8. Good to see ya back on Classic. Good luck with the Czech Pilsner.
  9. Use 1.33 parts per 1 part chlorine/chlorimane. that's the best info I could find in my search
  10. Or leave the water to stand for ~24hrs if possible, the chlorine will evaporate but the chloramine won't. However checking my local water chloramine is <.1mg/L. If you look into how much you need, I have only touched the surface so not full in-depth knowledge as yet so take these words with a grain of salt, you need 1.333 parts metabisulphate to 1 part chlorine/chloramine. So for me to treat my water I only need .028g (in 42Lts) to remove these. For wild bacteria I boil the water at the end of the Mash so everything is dead after that... well ment to be. But top up water "should" be boiled water that has been cooled to pitching temps. (emphasis on the should, so its defantly a 'can you be stuffed') As a wise man once said, your adding a chemical to remove a chemical, food for thought. Gosh I just made myself sound like Beerlust
  11. Ran out of gas, so had to cut the boil short by 20mins.... It'll be beer but maybe not as nice as it should be. Spare bottle ran out the same day too due to it being used on the BBQ.
  12. Yeah I know there are other tactics but I want to know if this will work. Would never do this if I was selling beer, but for my own consumption I would like to see how long a, say IPA, would last and what differences it could make to the beer. will it stay fresher with more hop presence, will it make no difference? will it turn into a slush puddle of goo and gain sentient consciousness? time will tell
  13. Yeah brew morning tomorrow, this will be the second brew of the same batch. Aiming for a session hoppy pale ale. Once this off flavour is solved I have my next experiment lined up to see if sodium metabisulphate. See if it will help remove O2 whilst bottling/kegging. Just need to do more reading on weights and required ppm.
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